We set off early for a boat trip around Peru mini version of the Galapagos, the infamously nicknamed ‘The Poor Man´s Galapagos’, the Ballestas Islands of Peru.
We hopped aboard a "Paracas Explorer" speedboats for a 2-hour wildlife watching tour just a few kilometres off the Peruvian western coast, outside the perimeter of the Paracas National Reserve we cycled the day before. The "Ballestas Islands" tours were leaving at 8.00 AM and 10 AM. We booked the first time slot. Early morning meant gentle lapping waves. With another 40 impatient fellow travellers, we cruised off into the Pacific ocean. The embarkation was modern. We couldn't help but notice that most of the life jackets were stained with birds poop. Hopefully, we would escape the dreadful poop-dropping.
The "Ballestas Islands" tour guide first stopped at the enigmatic El Candelabro, a giant pre-Inca geoglyph (183 metres), which rests on the side of a coastal hill. The ancient ground-carvings remains a bit of a mystery to these days. The unique symbol can’t be found anywhere else in South America and is not part of the Peruvian culture. Unfortunately, the large motif was slowly fading away and one day will disappear. Aliens will need to back to draw another one...
From a distance, we saw a collection of wind-eroded islets - the Ballestas Islands - jutting out of the sea getting bigger and bigger as we approached. As we get closer, the smell the Guano, basically seabird excrement, become more intense. The valued and efficient organic fertiliser has been mined since the 19th century and is still scraped off rocks nowadays. Today, the Guano is only harvested once every few years. The bird's population has decreased compared to the past. Therefore, there is less poo to collect.
Within minutes of arrival, we spotted our first Humboldt penguins also known as the Peruvian penguins. The endangered creatures were funnily waddling on the Ballestas Islands before jumping back into the ocean. Sadly, the population of this remarkable animal has plummeted in recent years due to commercial fishing, tourist visitation (yeah that’s us), and the harvesting of Guano which they used as nesting material.
We cruised around the islands' arches and caves for an hour watching a rich variety of birds such as the pelicans, vultures, Peruvian boobies, Red-legged Cormorants, Inca Terns and gulls. So many gulls. Some islets were almost completely covered in animal life. The entire region, including the Ballestas Islands, was dry where no rain will fall at all for months. Nothing grew out there. But the frigid waters had abundant plankton, molluscs and fishes. Therefore, it created the perfect habitat for all those birds.
On the bank, adorable South America sea lions and their babies were basking in the warm rays of Paracas sun. We learned that they were no seals. In fact, there is no seal in the Ballestas Islands, and for that matter in Peru. We could recognise the sea lions with their visible ear flaps. On our way back, we admire the spectacle of countless birds dive-bombing for their lunch. It was time for us to think about lunch before leaving for Huacachina.
Don't be a fool. The Ballestas Islands tour is touristic. We were sometimes surrounded by six other speedboats trying to get you the best pictures of the animals. We still enjoyed the mind-boggling array of seabirds and the mammals including the penguins and sea lions.
Practical information on the Ballestas Islands of Peru
- Book the 8 AM Ballestas Islands tour instead of 10 AM, especially if you suffer from seasickness. The sea will be quieter.
- Wear a hat to shield you from the falling guano and protect your brain from the sun.
- Sit on the back left side of the boat as they provide the best views of the Ballestas Islands tour.
- It can be hot or chilly or both, so dress with layers.
- If you get motion sick, take a pill (Dramamine, Bonine) in advance. Pills are better prevention than treatment.
- Bring a good camera with a lens. The animal won't be that close.
Where to stay in Paracas?
We booked two nights at Atenas Backpacker Hospedaje. The rooms were nothing amazing and certainly not five stars, with dated decor and furniture but it was cheap and everything worked well. We had cable TV, hot water and wifi included in the rate.
If you want to splurge and get the best experience in Paracas, check out the Hotel Paracas, a Luxury Collection Resort. The rooms were large, cosy with very comfortable beds. The 2 pools were clean, wonderful and paradisiac. The staff was welcoming and the food delicious. Try the Ceviche at Restaurante Chalana. When it came to the views. It was just splendid. Definitely worth the money spent.
Have you ever taken this tour of the Ballestas Islands? What time slot did you pick? Weren’t the Humboldt penguins cute? Let us know in the comments below.
