Cycling through the Paracas National Reserve in Peru
Every year thousands of visitors flock to Paracas to visit the Ballestas Islands, Peru's mini and cheap version of the Galapagos. Few people explore the Paracas National Park. Or if they do, they rush through it by bus. We decided to cycle the Paracas National Park, and it left a more authentic experience than the Ballestas Islands.
Early Morning Start
After talking with the manager of our hostel, Atenas Backpacker Hospedaje ↗, we concluded that we should rent bicycles and ride through the Paracas National Reserve. We needed to start early to beat the unbearable heat and the gusty wind that usually peaked in the afternoon.
Pink Flamingos at Dawn
At 6 AM, we packed our bag with water and cycled towards the visitor center as the sun rose over us. The park office was still closed. It only opened at 8 AM. Therefore, we saved 15 soles each required to buy the entrance tickets. We stopped and walked 10 minutes from the visitor center to the oceanfront to admire hundreds of pink flamingos feeding on micro-organisms, such as tiny algae and small crustaceans.
The Journey to La Catedral
From there, we returned to the intersection that would lead us next to the Cathedral. The 10 kilometers of raw nature made the area one of the most picturesque we had ever visited. Quickly, the road turned into a bumpy and rocky pathway. We cycled in the harsh and barren desert until we reached La Catedral (The Cathedral). Unfortunately, the rock formation was destroyed by the last earthquake when the main geological arch collapsed into the ocean. We continued our journey. Alone. Cycling in the silent desert with nothing except an infinite stretch of sand, dunes and mountains that were formed millions of years ago. The scenery was astonishing.
Desert Meets Ocean
After the cathedral, we were met with even more spectacular views of the Atacama Desert on one side, the Pacific Ocean on the other and the Andes Mountains in the background. The Atacama Desert is the driest desert in the world with only about 1 millimeter of rain per year.
Exploring at Our Own Pace
We pedaled at our own pace and stopped at various points of interest along the way, admiring the gigantic sand dunes, looking for marine fossils (that we never found), or taking amazing pictures of the cliffs dropping right down into the Peruvian coast.
The Stunning Playa Roja
We arrived at the famous Playa Roja, Peru's unique red beach and one of the most beautiful beaches in the Paracas National Reserve. Near the cliffs of Punta Santa Maria, the stunning reddish shore left us in awe. Exhausted, and after almost 5 hours in the reserve, the beach was the perfect conclusion to our journey. We completed the loop and headed back to Paracas.
Where to Stay in Paracas?
- The rooms were nothing amazing and certainly not five stars, with dated decor and furniture, but it was cheap and everything worked well. We had cable TV, hot water and wifi included in the rate.
- The rooms were large and cozy with very comfortable beds. The 2 pools were clean, wonderful and paradisiac. The staff was welcoming and the food delicious. Try the Ceviche at Restaurante Chalana. When it came to the views, it was just splendid. Definitely worth the money spent.
Have you cycled through the Paracas National Reserve? Did you see the pink flamingos? Which viewpoint was your favorite? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.
Tips for Cycling the Paracas National Reserve
- Why cycle? The bike was hard work, but it allows you to explore the National Park at your own pace and venture to places where buses or cars can't go.
- Bike rental: 25 soles per bike for the day. This seems to be the standard price around Paracas. You can book through your hostel or local shops.
- Distance: 6 km from town to visitor center, 2.3 km to intersection, 10 km to Cathedral, 8 km to Playa Roja, and 11 km back to Paracas. Total: approximately 35 km with extra exploration.
- Start early! Leave at 6 AM to beat the heat and wind. The park office opens at 8 AM (entrance fee: 15 soles per person).
- Cycle the loop clockwise - the first section to La Catedral is less scenic, saving the best views for later in your ride.
- Bring plenty of water! There are no facilities inside the reserve. The desert heat can be intense, especially after 10 AM.
- Pack: Sunscreen, hat, sunglasses, snacks, and a camera. The road gets bumpy and sandy in sections.
- Wind warning: Afternoon winds can be extremely strong and make cycling difficult. Morning rides are much more pleasant.
Note:
Cycling through the Paracas National Reserve was one of the highlights of our time in Peru. The freedom to explore at our own pace, the stunning desert-meets-ocean landscapes, and the solitude of the open road made this adventure unforgettable. Far more rewarding than any bus tour!
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