# Two Travel The World — Full Content
> Complete content dump for AI indexing. A travel blog by a couple documenting their adventures around the world.
---
## Destinations
### Argentina
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/argentina
Continent: South America
Country code: AR
Discover Argentina - from Buenos Aires tango to Patagonian glaciers, Mendoza wine country, Iguazu Falls, and the end of the world in Ushuaia.
### Australia
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/australia
Continent: Oceania
Country code: AU
Discover Australia - from the Great Barrier Reef to the Outback, Sydney's iconic harbor, unique wildlife, and endless golden beaches.
### Belgium
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/belgium
Continent: Europe
Country code: BE
Discover Belgium - from Brussels' Grand Place to Bruges' canals, world-famous chocolate and beer, stunning medieval architecture, and Art Nouveau masterpieces.
### Belize
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/belize
Continent: North America
Country code: BZ
Discover Belize - from the Blue Hole to ancient Mayan temples, lush rainforests, the world's second-largest barrier reef, and Caribbean vibes.
### Bolivia
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/bolivia
Continent: South America
Country code: BO
Discover Bolivia - from the Uyuni Salt Flats to La Paz's cable cars, Amazonian jungle, colonial Sucre, and the highest capital city in the world.
### Brazil
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/brazil
Continent: South America
Country code: BR
Discover Brazil - from Rio's Christ the Redeemer to the Amazon rainforest, Iguazu Falls, Carnival celebrations, and endless golden beaches.
### Bulgaria
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/bulgaria
Continent: Europe
Country code: BG
Discover Bulgaria - from Sofia's churches to the Black Sea coast, Rila Monastery, ancient Thracian ruins, and the stunning Rhodope Mountains.
### Cambodia
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/cambodia
Continent: Asia
Country code: KH
Discover Cambodia - from the magnificent temples of Angkor Wat to Phnom Penh's royal palace, floating villages, and a resilient culture rising from history.
### Canada
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/canada
Continent: North America
Country code: CA
Plan an epic road trip through Canada - from the Canadian Rockies to the Pacific coast.
### China
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/china
Continent: Asia
Country code: CN
Discover China - from the Great Wall to the Terracotta Warriors, Shanghai's skyline, Guilin's karst mountains, and 5,000 years of history.
### Costa Rica
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/costa-rica
Continent: North America
Country code: CR
Discover Costa Rica - from cloud forests to pristine beaches, volcanic hot springs, incredible wildlife, and the pure life (pura vida) philosophy.
### Cuba
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/cuba
Continent: North America
Country code: CU
Discover Cuba - from Havana's vintage charm to Trinidad's colonial streets, stunning beaches, salsa rhythms, and a culture frozen in time.
### Czech Republic
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/czech-republic
Continent: Europe
Country code: CZ
Discover Czech Republic - from Prague's stunning Old Town to Bohemian castles, world-famous beer culture, and charming medieval towns.
### Denmark
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/denmark
Continent: Europe
Country code: DK
Discover Denmark - from Copenhagen's colorful Nyhavn to Viking history, world-class design, cozy hygge culture, and fairytale castles.
### France
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/france
Continent: Europe
Country code: FR
Discover France - from Paris's iconic Eiffel Tower to Provence's lavender fields, the French Riviera, Loire Valley châteaux, and legendary cuisine.
### Germany
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/germany
Continent: Europe
Country code: DE
Discover Germany - from Berlin's history to Bavaria's castles, the Black Forest, Oktoberfest, and a perfect blend of old and new.
### Greece
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/greece
Continent: Europe
Country code: GR
Discover Greece - from the ancient Acropolis to the stunning Santorini sunsets, crystal-clear waters, and vibrant Mediterranean culture.
### Iceland
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/iceland
Continent: Europe
Country code: IS
Discover Iceland - from volcanic landscapes to northern lights, geysers and hot springs, dramatic waterfalls, and the magical midnight sun.
### India
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/india
Continent: Asia
Country code: IN
Discover India - from the Taj Mahal to Kerala's backwaters, Rajasthan's palaces, spiritual Varanasi, and an explosion of colors, flavors, and traditions.
### Indonesia
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/indonesia
Continent: Asia
Country code: ID
Discover Indonesia - from Bali's temples to Komodo dragons, Borobudur's ancient wonder, Raja Ampat's diving paradise, and 17,000 unique islands.
### Ireland
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/ireland
Continent: Europe
Country code: IE
Discover Ireland - from Dublin's literary heritage to the Wild Atlantic Way, ancient castles, vibrant pub culture, and breathtaking green landscapes.
### Italy
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/italy
Continent: Europe
Country code: IT
Discover Italy - from Rome's ancient ruins to Venice's canals, Renaissance art in Florence, Amalfi Coast beauty, and world-renowned cuisine.
### Japan
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/japan
Continent: Asia
Country code: JP
Discover Japan - ancient temples, serene gardens, neon-lit cities, and cutting-edge technology.
### Jordan
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/jordan
Continent: Asia
Country code: JO
Discover Jordan - from the rose-red city of Petra to Wadi Rum's Martian landscapes, Dead Sea floating, and ancient Roman ruins at Jerash.
### Luxembourg
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/luxembourg
Continent: Europe
Country code: LU
Discover Luxembourg - from the UNESCO-listed old town to dramatic gorges, medieval castles, and a blend of French, German, and Belgian influences.
### Madagascar
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/madagascar
Continent: Africa
Country code: MG
Discover Madagascar - from lemurs and baobabs to pristine beaches, unique ecosystems found nowhere else on Earth, and the Avenue of the Baobabs.
### Malta
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/malta
Continent: Europe
Country code: MT
Discover Malta - from Valletta's baroque architecture to ancient temples older than Stonehenge, crystal-clear waters, and Knights of St. John heritage.
### Mexico
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/mexico
Continent: North America
Country code: MX
Discover Mexico - from ancient Mayan ruins to vibrant Mexico City, Caribbean beaches, Day of the Dead traditions, and world-famous cuisine.
### Myanmar
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/myanmar
Continent: Asia
Country code: MM
Discover Myanmar - from Bagan's thousand temples to Inle Lake's floating gardens, golden Shwedagon Pagoda, and a culture untouched by time.
### Netherlands
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/netherlands
Continent: Europe
Country code: NL
Discover Netherlands - from Amsterdam's canals to Keukenhof's tulips, world-class museums, historic windmills, and vibrant cycling culture.
### New Zealand
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/new-zealand
Continent: Oceania
Country code: NZ
Discover New Zealand - from Lord of the Rings landscapes to Milford Sound, Maori heritage, adventure sports capital Queenstown, and pristine natural beauty.
### Norway
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/norway
Continent: Europe
Country code: NO
Discover Norway - from dramatic fjords to the northern lights, midnight sun adventures, Viking heritage, and stunning Arctic landscapes.
### Peru
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/peru
Continent: South America
Country code: PE
Discover Peru - from the mystical Machu Picchu to the Amazon jungle, colonial Cusco, Lake Titicaca, and the enigmatic Nazca Lines.
### Philippines
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/philippines
Continent: Asia
Country code: PH
Discover the Philippines - over 7,000 islands of tropical paradise with pristine beaches and warm hospitality.
### Portugal
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/portugal
Continent: Europe
Country code: PT
Discover Portugal - from Lisbon's colorful trams to Porto's wine cellars, the Algarve's stunning beaches, and Sintra's fairytale palaces.
### Singapore
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/singapore
Continent: Asia
Country code: SG
Discover Singapore - from Marina Bay's futuristic skyline to hawker centers, Gardens by the Bay, diverse neighborhoods, and a perfect blend of cultures.
### South Africa
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/south-africa
Continent: Africa
Country code: ZA
Discover South Africa - from Kruger's Big Five to Cape Town's Table Mountain, the Garden Route, wine country, and a rainbow nation of cultures.
### Spain
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/spain
Continent: Europe
Country code: ES
Discover Spain - from Barcelona's Gaudí masterpieces to Andalusia's Moorish heritage, vibrant festivals, world-famous cuisine, and sun-soaked Mediterranean beaches.
### Sweden
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/sweden
Continent: Europe
Country code: SE
Discover Sweden - from Stockholm's archipelago to Lapland's northern lights, midnight sun adventures, ABBA heritage, and Swedish design excellence.
### Switzerland
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/switzerland
Continent: Europe
Country code: CH
Discover Switzerland - from the Matterhorn to Lake Geneva, scenic train journeys, chocolate and cheese, and some of the world's most stunning alpine scenery.
### United Kingdom
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/united-kingdom
Continent: Europe
Country code: GB
Discover the United Kingdom - from London's iconic landmarks to Scotland's rugged highlands, historic castles, charming villages, and vibrant cultural scenes.
### United States
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/united-states
Continent: North America
Country code: US
Discover the United States - from New York's skyline to Grand Canyon's depths, California's coast, national parks, and endless road trip possibilities.
### Vietnam
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/destinations/vietnam
Continent: Asia
Country code: VN
Discover Vietnam - from Ha Long Bay's limestone karsts to Hoi An's lanterns, bustling Hanoi streets, Mekong Delta adventures, and incredible street food.
---
## Articles
### Denali Bus Tours 2026: An Honest Comparison
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/articles/denali-bus-tours-guide
Category: guide
Date: 2026-02-14
Tags: Alaska, Denali, National Parks, Bus Tours, USA, Guide, Budget Travel
The Tundra Wilderness Tour costs $144.75. The transit bus goes to the same endpoint for $33.50. Here’s how to decide which Denali bus option is right for you.
### How to Get Cheap Theatre Tickets in London: The Complete Guide
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/articles/cheap-london-theatre-tickets
Category: tips
Date: 2026-02-06
Tags: London, Theatre, West End, Budget Travel, Tips, United Kingdom
From TodayTix Rush to seat-filling clubs — every tested method for scoring affordable West End tickets, plus the insider strategies we actually use.
### The Best Apps for Backpackers
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/articles/best-backpacker-apps-2026
Category: resources
Date: 2026-02-02
Tags: Apps, Backpacking, Travel Tips, Resources, Technology, Budget Travel
The essential smartphone toolkit for backpackers — from offline maps and translation to budget tracking and hostel booking. Every app we actually use on the road.
### 10 Magical Harry Potter Experiences in London
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/articles/10-magical-harry-potter-experiences-london
Category: destination
Date: 2017-10-20
Tags: Harry Potter, London, United Kingdom, Experiences, Culture
Ten magical Harry Potter experiences to enjoy during your London visit, from the Warner Brothers Studio Tour to free Muggle walking tours.
### Medical Checklist
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/articles/medical-checklist
Category: gear
Date: 2017-07-04
Tags: Medical, Checklist, Backpacking, First Aid, Health, Travel Tips
Essential first aid kit items for backpackers and travellers. Everything you need to stay healthy abroad.
### 30 Tips for Your First Trip to China
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/articles/30-tips-your-first-trip-china
Category: tips
Date: 2017-07-07
Tags: China, Travel Tips, Asia, First Trip, Culture
Essential tips to navigate Chinese culture, from visa requirements to street food etiquette.
### The Best VPN for China and Elsewhere
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/articles/best-vpn-china-2017
Category: resources
Date: 2017-07-01
Tags: VPN, China, Internet, Security, Travel Tips, Resources
Navigate internet restrictions with the best VPN services for travellers. Compare ExpressVPN, NordVPN, and VyprVPN to stay connected abroad.
### Things to Do Before Travelling
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/articles/things-do-before-travelling
Category: tips
Date: 2017-04-01
Tags: Travel Tips, Checklist, Planning, Backpacking
The ultimate pre-travel checklist covering finances, documents, health, and packing — so you can leave home with total peace of mind.
### Choose The Right Backpacker Travel Insurance
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/articles/backpacker-travel-insurance
Category: tips
Date: 2017-06-19
Tags: Insurance, Backpacking, Travel Tips, Health, Safety
Whether you are on a globetrotting adventure or living overseas, you need specialist travel insurance. Here are the key considerations to find the right policy.
---
## Travel Diaries
### Uyuni Salt Flats tour from Tupiza, Bolivia - Day 2/4
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/uyuni-salt-flats-tour-tupiza-bolivia-day-24
Location: Tupiza, Bolivia
Date: 2018-05-11
Day: 2
**For the second days, we entered the inside the Eduardo Avaroa National Wildlife Reserve and were amazed by stunning colourful lakes. The journey of a lifetime was only getting better after a [first day of the Uyuni Salt Flats](/en/diaries/uyuni-salt-flats-tour-tupiza-bolivia-day-14) already mesmerising.**
On day 2 of our Uyuni Salt Flats tour from Tupiza, we were granted a sleep in until 6.00. It was bitterly cold when we leave the homestay at dawn. We trundled all day along the dusty tracks from one jaw-dropping scenery to another. Passing by herds of llamas or the odd vicuña along the side of the road, we explored the lakes scattered in the desert.
The first lake was the Laguna Hedionda. With the colourful peaks of the Andes serving as a backdrop, the saline lake was stunning. We jumped off the 4x4 to take a closer look. We wandered around the cold lake home to 3 migratory species of flamingo - Andean, Chilean & the rarest kind James. The poor birds were literally walking on thin ice.
### The Laguna Hedionda
After the Laguna Hedionda, we pulled up in the wilderness near "Termas de Polques". We stripped to our bathing suit and dipped into the naturally heated pools. Sitting half-naked in clouds of billowing steam and taking in the spectacular, barren scenery was a unique experience. Starting the tour from Tupiza meant we had the place just for ourselves. So cool!
### Termas de Polques Hot Springs
After relaxing and warming up in the pools, we were now driving through a barren valley, called the Dali Valley or Dali Desert because of its colours resemble the surrealist paintings of Salvador Dali! Surrounded by towering volcanoes, the scenery was surreal.
### Dali Valley
As we arrived at the Green Lake, we noticed, the murky waters were not green. Hamilton, our guide asked us to wait. Around noon, the wind rose and before our eyes, the "Laguna Verde" changed and get in minutes its turquoise hues. It was magical. When the arsenic, lead, copper and other heavy metals in the water get agitated enough by the wind, its colour change into green!
The snow-capped Licancabur Volcano towering at 5,868 meters above the sea was reflecting. The scenery was out of this world. Plus, we were lucky to arrive a the right time to experience the famous Laguna Verde transformation. After recording the phenomenon, we made our way back to our 4x4 for the next attraction of the Uyuni Salt Flats tour, the White Lake.
### Laguna Verde or Green Lake
After the Green and White Lakes, we found ourselves in front on another marvel, the Solar de Manaña geyser basin. We jumped off the truck. The wind was blowing strongly, drifting through the thin air, and pushing steam and gases in all directions. We heard the bubbling and boiling mud. We breathed the unpleasant smell of rotten eggs characteristic of the sulphur dioxide. The geothermal field was impressive but also scary. A 250C geyser would burn anyone to its death. We wandered around the different pools until the bone-chilling cold froze our smartphones (and our asses).
### Solar de Manaña
Before sunset, we reached the Laguna Colorada or Red Lagoon. The shallow salt lake was mesmerising. A once in a lifetime experience. The tinted blood water contrasted with the white colour of its borax islets and the hundred of flamingos created an extraordinary scenery. The red is caused by the pigmentation of some algae. We spent an hour watching the birds paddling in the deep red waters and were able to get up close and with few flamingos feeding on the shore. It was one of the most beautiful places we have ever visited.
### Laguna Colorada or Red Lagoon
Our homestay for the night was close by. The dinner was waiting for us as we returned from the Laguna Colorada, the head filled with unforgettable and breathtaking sights. The second night was a rough sleep. Sleeping at 4300 meters above the sea in the blistering cold was not something we want to remember. But the places we visited during the day made it all worth it.
*Have you been to the Bolivian Salar? Did you start from Tupiza or Uyuni? Which company did you book with? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
Start the Uyuni Salt Flats tour from Tupiza, Bolivia as it offers many advantages."
},
{
"icon": "Backpack",
"text": "We rented sleeping bags and were glad we did as it was freezing during the night. We slept with layers over layers of clothing."
},
{
"icon": "Droplet",
"text": "Just being at altitude causes you to lose far more fluids than normal. Drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration. We brought extra water for the trip even though we got 1.5 litres per day provided by the company. Avoid caffeine (coca, tea, coffee) and alcohol, as these can increase the likelihood of dehydration. We suffered from headaches and breath shortness on the second night as we slept at 4300 m."
},
{
"icon": "AlertTriangle",
"text": "Once again. Acclimate to the high altitude in Bolivia before setting off into remote areas like Uyuni and beyond."
},
{
"icon": "Banknote",
"text": "Bring cash in low denominations to pay for the toilets (Bs. 2-5), showers (Bs. 10), thermal pools (Bs. 6), entrance fee to the National Park (Bs. 150), entrance fee to Isla Incahuasi (Bs. 30)."
},
{
"icon": "HandHeart",
"text": "Tip your guide and cook"
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
### Uyuni Salt Flats tour from Tupiza, Bolivia - Day 1/4
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/uyuni-salt-flats-tour-tupiza-bolivia-day-14
Location: Tupiza, Bolivia
Date: 2018-05-10
Day: 1
**We decided to embark on a 4 days expedition through the [Bolivian Salt Flats](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salar_de_Uyuni). We were anticipating rocky deserts, hundred of flamingos, coloured lagoons, geysers steaming sulphur, herds of llamas, snow-capped volcanoes, natural hot springs, giant cacti, a train cemetery and so much more.**
Early morning, we left Tupiza with Pascal and Corine, a French couple who were as excited as we were. Our driver Milton and cook Cecilia were waiting for us in the 4x4. Within minutes of leaving town, we stopped to take pictures of stunning rock formations at the Quebrada de Palala at 4,200 meters above the sea level.
The red and grey colours of the huge thin walls of eroded earth and rock were beautiful. We could have stayed there for hours taking pictures, but we had to move on. The scenery was constantly changing - open fields with llamas, valleys backed by volcanoes, and lunar-like landscapes.
### Quebrada de Palala
During the morning, we spotted an Andean fox running across the desert and stopped for lunch in Cerillos, a small hamlet of a dozen mud-brick houses. The village was almost deserted as most inhabitants had moved to bigger cities after the mines closed down.
After lunch, we continued through Polulos and Rio San Pablo before reaching Pueblo Fantasma, an abandoned ghost town that was left untouched after the Spanish plundered it and leprosy devastated the population.
### Pueblo Fantasma - The Ghost Town
At Laguna Morejon, we reached an elevation of 4,855 meters without experiencing any altitude sickness symptoms yet. The landscape was surreal - a vast expanse of reddish earth stretching to the horizon, dotted with volcanic peaks.
### Laguna Morejon
The day concluded in Quetena Chico village where we would spend the night. After a hearty meal prepared by Cecilia, we stepped outside to stargaze. The sky was incredibly clear at this altitude, showing millions of stars despite the freezing cold.
Our accommodation was basic - mud-brick walls and simple beds - but we were grateful for shelter at this altitude. Tomorrow would bring even more spectacular sights.
*Have you been to the Bolivian Salar? Did you start from Tupiza or Uyuni? Which company did you book with? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
Natural Adventure and they did an amazing job. They couldn't be faulted on their service. The Spanish-speaking driver, certified mechanic and guide, Milton, was very friendly and patient with our minimal Spanish. He loves being a guide. He was a careful and excellent driver, taking good care of its car all the time. The poor man woke up every night to start up its engine. The bubbly cook, Cecilia, all dress up with traditional Bolivian clothing, made sure we were never hungry, even for the vegetarians. We paid USD 200 each including all the meals, water, soft drink, few snacks, petrol and accommodation for 4 days and 3 nights."
},
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
### The fascinating Uros Floating Islands Of the Lake Titicaca
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/fascinating-uros-floating-islands-lake-titicaca
Location: Puno, Peru
Date: 2018-05-04
**The Uros floating islands are a group of more than 80 man-made reed platforms constructed in the middle of frigid Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world. Thousands of Uros, a pre-Inca civilisation, still lives today on those floating villages to maintain an ancestral culture which they share happily (and for some money) with visitors from all over the world.**
As we arrived early at Puno, we boarded one of the first morning boats for a 30-minutes ride from the port to the main Uros archipelago. We passed dozens of artificial islets inhabited by the ancient Uros tribe, each structure accommodating a group of one to ten families. Since always, the Uros have subsisted by fishing, hunting wild birds and gathering bird eggs. Today the "floating" communities rely increasingly on the growing Peruvian tourism by selling trinkets to tourists.
Their unusual lifestyle has changed little since the Inca civilisation. The "people of the lake" have maintained their distinctive customs but the modern world is catching up. Progress and technology are slowly reaching them as they multiply their contact with the mainland. Solar panels complement their basic huts. Wooden boats with outboard motors are used for fishing. Kids leave every day the islets for schools on the mainland. Metal roofs are replacing the traditional ones made of reed.
Our motorised boat approached a tiny islet, and we disembarked as indigenous women welcomed us with huge smiles and local songs. Walking on the Uros floating island felt a little bizarre. It was unstable and kind of spongy. We weren't on the boat anymore nor were we on the dry land.
The Uros woman invited us to explore the different huts used as bedrooms, kitchens and communal buildings. The structures were humid and cold. With no heaters, we couldn't imagine how they could live all year long in such hard and inhospitable environment.
We sat around our guide and learned about the Titicaca ancient inhabitants and the Uros floating island. Urus have for centuries isolated themselves on the lake to escape the Inca and Colla cultures, the Spanish conquistadors and later the Peruvian government. First, they survived on fishing vessels made of cut totora, a reed that grows abundantly in the shallow of the Lake Titicaca. The boats turned into bigger platforms constructed using the same buoyant material. They erected simple huts and sometimes watchtowers on the biggest structure and lived isolated from the world in peace.
The construction process hasn't changed for centuries. The dense roots of totora are cut into large squares and are used a foundation to support the platform which is made of layer after layer of thick totora. The islands are anchored but can be moved if needed. Handy if you get into a fight with your neighbour. The self-fashioned islands take weeks to build and need continual maintenance. The reed keeps rotting from the bottom and the indigenous people need to keep adding fresh layers of dried up reeds on top.
The plants are used to build everything and anything on their islands including furniture and handicrafts. Plus, the inside white part is part of the islanders’ diet. We tried it. The bottom part of the fresh reed wasn’t so bad to taste. Like the coca leaves, totora has various medicinal properties such as iodine supplements or treating wounds.
For 10 extra sol, we jumped into a reed raft decorated with two puma heads at the prow. We glided to a neighbouring island before heading back to Puno, leaving behind a sublime scenery and a fascinating culture.
**The Uros floating islands were a unique and "authentic" travel to the past. Of course, the Uros floating islands were touristic and highly commercialized. The community has found a new way of subsidence. But if our money allows them to maintain their ancestral tradition, a respectful tourism can be all bad. By the way we visited the unusual habitat earlier in the morning, and we had a more intimate experience as the hordes of tourists were still sleeping in Puno.**
*Have you been to the Uros floating islands? Did the commercialized factor bother you? Did you go early in the morning to avoid the tourists? Please share your thoughts and comments below.*
### The Machu Picchu Mountain
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/machu-picchu-mountain
Location: Aguas Calientes, Peru
Date: 2018-05-02
**A million people visit Machu Picchu every year. We'd been traveling through Peru for two weeks, building up to this moment—and we weren't about to settle for just walking through the ruins. We came to climb the mountain that gives this place its name.**
### The 4 AM Strategy
Here's the thing about Machu Picchu: the first buses don't leave Aguas Calientes until 5:30 AM. But the bridge opens at 5 AM for people willing to walk. Do the math, and you realize the hikers get there first.
We wanted to be among the first through the gates. So we skipped the bus entirely.
At 4 AM, we slipped out of [Catari's House](https://www.booking.com/hotel/pe/katari-house.html?aid=1296479) into streets already buzzing with headlamps and hushed voices. Dozens of people were queuing at the bus kiosk. More clustered near the bus stop, waiting for the 5:30 departure. We walked past all of them, slightly smug, entirely caffeine-deprived.
The only bridge over the Vilcanota River was closed. Guards wouldn't let anyone cross until 5 AM sharp. So we stood there with about a hundred other early risers, stamping our feet against the morning chill, watching our breath fog up in the darkness. When the guards finally waved us through, we climbed in near-total darkness. Fifty minutes later, we reached the entrance just as the first buses were pulling up behind us. The gamble paid off.
**Pro tip:** The bridge opens at 5 AM sharp, but arrive by 4:45 AM to secure a good spot in line. The walk up takes about 50 minutes—factor that into your timing if you want to catch sunrise inside the citadel.
### First Light on Stone
The gates opened at 6 AM. We walked through, rounded a corner, and there it was—stone terraces cascading down a razor-thin ridge, mountains plunging into mist on every side. And almost nobody else around. The site was nearly empty, just a handful of early birds and the llamas. You've seen the photos a thousand times. Doesn't matter. In person, with no crowds, the scale hits different.
What struck us first wasn't the ruins themselves, but where they put them. The Incas could have built anywhere. They chose *this*—a saddle between two peaks, wrapped in clouds, accessible only by a single narrow path. The engineering is impressive. The audacity is something else entirely.
The Incas didn't build Machu Picchu to be seen. They built it to disappear.
Llamas wandered the terraces like they owned the place. (They might.) One posed for our camera without prompting, tilting its head at just the right angle. Professional model energy.
We spent two hours wandering before our mountain permit window opened. The terraces where the Incas grew over 400 crop varieties. The Intiwatana stone, precisely carved to track the sun. The Temple of the Three Windows, aligned with the solstice. The Temple of the Condor, where sacrifices were made. Each structure more precise than it had any right to be, given the tools they had.
Altitude: Summit is at 3,061m. Acclimatize in Cusco for 2-3 days before attempting"
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Return train from Ollantaytambo to Cusco: $150 USD. Budget alternative: Collectivo for 10 soles"
},
{
icon: "Hotel",
text: "We stayed at Catari's House in Aguas Calientes - great location for early starts"
}
]}
/>
### 2,115 Steps
At 9 AM, our permit window opened for **Machu Picchu Mountain**—the bigger, quieter sibling to Huayna Picchu.
Most people go for Huayna Picchu, the dramatic peak you see in every postcard looming behind the ruins. It's got the reputation: steep ladders, narrow paths, sheer drops. Instagram gold. But Machu Picchu Mountain is 500 meters higher and offers something Huayna can't—a view of *everything*. The ruins, the surrounding peaks, the river snaking through the valley far below.
Only 400 people per day get permits. We signed the registry at the warden hut, flashed our tickets, and started climbing.
The trail is made of original Inca stonework: 2,115 uneven steps carved into the mountainside. (Yes, we counted. What else are you going to do when you're gasping for air?) The path was clear and well-marked—no scrambling required. But "clear" doesn't mean "easy." At 2,400 meters and climbing, every step felt like two.
We stopped constantly. Partly to catch our breath. Mostly because each switchback revealed a better view than the last. Machu Picchu shrank below us, the terraces looking more and more like a model someone had glued to a ridge. The ruins that had seemed so massive an hour ago now fit in the palm of our hand.
### The View That Explains Everything
The final stretch got interesting. Narrower. Steeper. A few people coming down looked genuinely rattled—the kind of wide-eyed expression that says "I didn't sign up for this." If heights aren't your thing, this last bit will test you.
And then, one more switchback, and we were there.
3,061 meters above sea level. 630 meters above the ruins. The entire Sacred Valley spread out below us like a map someone had crumpled and then smoothed back out.
The Rio Urubamba carved its way through the mountains, wrapping around the ridge where the Incas had built their sanctuary—the one the Spanish conquistadors searched for but never found. From up here, you understand why. This place was designed to disappear. Tucked between peaks, swallowed by clouds, visible only if you knew exactly where to look.
We sat at the summit longer than we'd planned, passing a water bottle back and forth, watching clouds roll through the valley. Other hikers trickled in, all wearing the same dazed grin. Nobody talked much. There wasn't a lot to say.
Far below, we could make out Aguas Calientes clinging to the riverbank, and the Santa Teresa hydro-electric station where the budget travelers' backdoor route ends. Our train to Ollantaytambo would leave in a few hours. But for now, we just sat there, legs burning, lungs complaining, thoroughly content.
The descent took half the time. We got our passports stamped at the exit (free souvenir), walked back down to Aguas Calientes the same way we'd come up, and caught our train with minutes to spare.
Climbing Machu Picchu Mountain turned out to be the highlight of our two weeks in Peru. The 4 AM wake-up, the walk in the dark, the 2,115 steps—all of it was worth it for that moment at the summit when everything finally clicked. You don't just see Machu Picchu from up there. You understand it.
**The ruins are spectacular. The mountain puts them in perspective. If your legs and lungs can handle it, climb up. You'll see why the Incas picked this exact spot—and why the Spanish never found it.**
If you've made it to Machu Picchu or tackled the mountain yourself, we'd love to hear your story. Drop a comment below and share your experience—or any tips for fellow travelers planning the same adventure.
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### Flying over the Nazca Lines: Peru's Mysterious Geoglyphs
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/flying-over-nazca-lines-perus-mysterious-geoglyphs
Location: Nazca, Peru
Date: 2018-04-24
**Every year, thousands of tourists flock to Nazca to see the famous Nazca lines. Today we were two of them. The landmark might not be as famous as Machu Picchu, but the gigantic and mysterious shapes scratched into the plain desert surface remained a highlight of our trip in Peru.**
### Preparing for the Flight
After intensive online research and reading countless reviews, we booked a 30-minute flight with **AeroNasca**, one of the companies with a good ranking on www.findlocaltrips.com. After a short drive from our hostel, [Hospedaje El Telar](https://www.booking.com/hotel/pe/hospedaje-el-telar.html?aid=1296479;), we arrived at the small Maria Reiche Neuman Airport on the outskirts of Nazca. The airport was named after the woman who dedicated her life to the study and protection of Peru's most treasured national symbols.
We checked in, paid the departure tax and waited nervously in the terminal for our flight, watching a National Geographic documentary about the **Nazca Lines**. Half an hour later, our flight 995 was called out and we were rushed through security and led onto the tarmac. Our Cessna plane was tiny. We squeezed into an 8-seater aircraft: one pilot, one copilot and 6 fellow passengers.
### Taking Off Over the Desert
Listening to the copilot's instructions, we took off smoothly from the runway to rise over the **Nazca Desert**, a high arid plateau that stretches between the towns of Nazca and Palpa on the pampa. Within minutes, we saw the first geoglyphs. The **Nazca lines** vary in terms of size, form and complexity. Most of them are simple lines or geometric shapes which run across the arid desert and date back from 200 B.C. to 600 A.D. But around 80 drawings, called scientifically **biomorphs**, depict animals, plants or even humans.
### The Whale Geoglyph
Suddenly, we spotted the first zoomorphic design: a giant whale. The pilot maneuvered the plane left and right to make sure everyone on board had a good view. Most of the geoglyphs have a strong relationship with water. It was not a surprise to find one of the ocean's largest and noblest creatures etched in the rocky sand. The hot and stuffy cockpit added with the sharp turns and twists made us feel a little queasy. Nothing unbearable though.
### The Mysterious Astronaut
The flight continued. We glided past the **astronaut**, known to archaeologists as the giant or the owl-man. The 30-meter high figure etched on the side of a reddish hill is **The Mystery of the Nazca Desert**. Some people say the lines were created by ancient astronauts. In other words, **Aliens**. Some argue it represents a fisherman. Whatever it is, the drawing remained an impressive and humbling sight. The pilot kept banking the plane from one side to another before continuing its journey.
### The Monkey and the Dog
We flew over the iconic **monkey** with its spiraling tail and the funny-looking dog. The two enormous ground figures spanned hundreds of meters in the middle of the Peruvian desert. Stunning.
### The Hummingbird
We kept on exploring from the air this **UNESCO World Heritage** site. We saw the shape of a giant hummingbird, one of the site's best-known figures. The tiny bird was spectacular and could only be appreciated from the sky.
### The Condor
The condor was next. The mystical shape was one of the largest zoomorphic geoglyphs. The plane continued to fly over 13 ancient geoglyphs imprinted into the Nazca desert. Each figure was as surprising as the previous one.
*Have you flown over the Nazca Lines? Which geoglyph was your favorite? Did you experience any motion sickness during the flight? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
Safety First: Book through a reputable company. Too many accidents have happened in recent years to ignore safety concerns."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Book an early morning flight. Nazca is hot all year long and the 6-seater planes are quite small. The heat in the confined space can be unbearable in the afternoon when the cockpit turns into an oven."
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Morning flights also have less turbulence and the best viewing conditions to admire the mysterious patterns."
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "We booked through www.FindLocalTrips.com for $80 USD per person. Budget an extra $30 soles for the airport departure tax (must be paid in cash)."
},
{
icon: "Backpack",
text: "You MUST bring your original passport for ID verification. Photocopies are not accepted and you'll be refused the flight without a refund."
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "If you have a history of motion sickness, take medication such as Dramamine 30-60 minutes before your flight. The plane banks sharply from side to side."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Taking photos during the flight can worsen nausea, but the views are incredible. Consider filming short videos instead of constantly looking through a viewfinder."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Alternative: If you don't want to fly, you can see a handful of the designs from El Mirador, a viewing tower next to the Pan-American Highway."
}
]}
/>
**Flying over the Nazca Lines was an unforgettable experience. Despite the heat and the dizzying maneuvers, witnessing these ancient geoglyphs from the air - the only way they were meant to be seen - made it all worthwhile. A must-do adventure when visiting Peru.**
Pin These Moments
### The Inside Guide to the Ballestas Islands of Peru
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/inside-guide-ballestas-islands-peru
Location: Paracas, Peru
Date: 2018-04-21
**We set off early for a boat trip around Peru's mini version of the Galapagos, the infamously nicknamed 'Poor Man's Galapagos' - the Ballestas Islands of Peru.**
### Early Morning Departure
We hopped aboard a **Paracas Explorer** speedboat for a 2-hour wildlife watching tour just a few kilometers off the Peruvian western coast, outside the perimeter of the Paracas National Reserve we cycled the day before. **The Ballestas Islands tours** departed at 8:00 AM and 10:00 AM. We booked the first time slot. Early morning meant gentle lapping waves. With another 40 impatient fellow travelers, we cruised off into the Pacific Ocean. The embarkation was modern. We couldn't help but notice that most of the life jackets were stained with bird poop. Hopefully, we would escape the dreadful poop-dropping.
### The Mysterious El Candelabro
**The Ballestas Islands tour guide** first stopped at the enigmatic **El Candelabro**, a giant pre-Inca geoglyph (183 meters) which rests on the side of a coastal hill. The ancient ground-carving remains a bit of a mystery to this day. The unique symbol can't be found anywhere else in South America and is not part of the Peruvian culture. Unfortunately, the large motif was slowly fading away and one day will disappear. Aliens will need to come back to draw another one...
### Approaching the Islands
**From a distance, we saw a collection of wind-eroded islets - the Ballestas Islands** - jutting out of the sea, getting bigger and bigger as we approached. As we got closer, the smell of **Guano**, basically seabird excrement, became more intense. The valued and efficient organic fertilizer has been mined since the 19th century and is still scraped off rocks nowadays. Today, the Guano is only harvested once every few years. The bird population has decreased compared to the past. Therefore, there is less poop to collect.
### Spotting Humboldt Penguins
Within minutes of arrival, we spotted our first **Humboldt penguins**, also known as Peruvian penguins. **The endangered creatures were funnily waddling on the Ballestas Islands** before jumping back into the ocean. Sadly, the population of this remarkable animal has plummeted in recent years due to commercial fishing, tourist visitation (yeah, that's us), and the harvesting of Guano which they use as nesting material.
### A Paradise for Seabirds
We cruised around the islands' arches and caves for an hour watching a rich variety of birds such as pelicans, vultures, Peruvian boobies, Red-legged Cormorants, Inca Terns and gulls. So many gulls. Some islets were almost completely covered in animal life. The entire region, including **the Ballestas Islands**, was dry where no rain will fall at all for months. Nothing grew out there. But the frigid waters had abundant plankton, mollusks and fish. Therefore, it created the perfect habitat for all those birds.
### Sea Lions Basking in the Sun
On the bank, adorable **South American sea lions** and their babies were basking in the warm rays of the Paracas sun. We learned that they were not seals. In fact, there are no seals in the Ballestas Islands, and for that matter in Peru. We could recognize the sea lions by their visible ear flaps. On our way back, we admired the spectacle of countless birds dive-bombing for their lunch. It was time for us to think about lunch before leaving for Huacachina.
### The Verdict
Don't be a fool. **The Ballestas Islands tour is touristic.** We were sometimes surrounded by six other speedboats trying to get the best pictures of the animals. We still enjoyed the mind-boggling array of seabirds and the mammals, including the penguins and sea lions.
Restaurante Chalana. When it came to the views, it was just splendid. Definitely worth the money spent.",
icon: "Star"
}
]}
/>
*Have you visited the Ballestas Islands? Did you see the Humboldt penguins? Which was your favorite wildlife encounter? What time slot did you pick? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
Book the 8 AM tour: The early morning departure has calmer seas - essential if you suffer from seasickness!"
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "If you're prone to motion sickness, take medication (Dramamine or Bonine) 30-60 minutes before departure. Prevention is better than treatment!"
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Sit on the back left side of the boat for the best views and photo opportunities of the wildlife."
},
{
icon: "AlertTriangle",
text: "Wear a hat: Protect yourself from falling guano (bird poop) and the strong sun. The life jackets may already be stained!"
},
{
icon: "Backpack",
text: "Dress in layers - it can be hot in the sun or chilly from ocean winds. Bring a windproof jacket."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Bring a good camera with zoom lens. The animals won't be that close and a phone camera won't capture the details."
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Tour cost: Approximately $35 USD per person for the 2-hour boat tour. Book from agencies in Paracas town."
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "The islands are protected - you cannot land on them. All viewing is done from the boat, so patience and a good camera are essential!"
}
]}
/>
**The Ballestas Islands offer an incredible wildlife spectacle that rivals the Galapagos at a fraction of the cost. Despite the crowds, seeing Humboldt penguins, sea lions, and thousands of seabirds in their natural habitat makes this tour a must-do when visiting the Paracas region.**
Pin These Moments
### Cycling through the Paracas National Reserve in Peru
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/cycling-through-paracas-national-reserve-peru
Location: Paracas, Peru
Date: 2018-04-20
**Every year thousands of visitors flock to Paracas to visit the Ballestas Islands, Peru's mini and cheap version of the Galapagos. Few people explore the Paracas National Park. Or if they do, they rush through it by bus. We decided to cycle the Paracas National Park, and it left a more authentic experience than the [Ballestas Islands](/diaries/inside-guide-ballestas-islands-peru).**
### Early Morning Start
After talking with the manager of our hostel, [Atenas Backpacker Hospedaje](https://www.booking.com/hotel/pe/atenas-backpacker-hospedaje.html?aid=1296479;), we concluded that we should rent bicycles and ride through the **Paracas National Reserve**. We needed to start early to beat the unbearable heat and the gusty wind that usually peaked in the afternoon.
### Pink Flamingos at Dawn
At 6 AM, we packed our bag with water and cycled towards the visitor center as the sun rose over us. The park office was still closed. It only opened at 8 AM. Therefore, we saved 15 soles each required to buy the entrance tickets. We stopped and walked 10 minutes from the visitor center to the oceanfront to admire hundreds of **pink flamingos** feeding on micro-organisms, such as tiny algae and small crustaceans.
### The Journey to La Catedral
From there, we returned to the intersection that would lead us next to **the Cathedral**. The 10 kilometers of raw nature made the area one of the most picturesque we had ever visited. Quickly, the road turned into a bumpy and rocky pathway. We cycled in the harsh and barren desert until we reached **La Catedral (The Cathedral)**. Unfortunately, the rock formation was destroyed by the last earthquake when the main geological arch collapsed into the ocean. We continued our journey. Alone. Cycling in the silent desert with nothing except an infinite stretch of sand, dunes and mountains that were formed millions of years ago. The scenery was astonishing.
### Desert Meets Ocean
After the cathedral, we were met with even more spectacular views of the **Atacama Desert** on one side, the Pacific Ocean on the other and the Andes Mountains in the background. The Atacama Desert is the driest desert in the world with only about 1 millimeter of rain per year.
### Exploring at Our Own Pace
We pedaled at our own pace and stopped at various points of interest along the way, admiring the gigantic sand dunes, looking for marine fossils (that we never found), or taking amazing pictures of the cliffs dropping right down into the Peruvian coast.
### The Stunning Playa Roja
We arrived at the famous **Playa Roja**, Peru's unique red beach and one of the most beautiful beaches in the Paracas National Reserve. Near the cliffs of Punta Santa Maria, the stunning reddish shore left us in awe. Exhausted, and after almost 5 hours in the reserve, the beach was the perfect conclusion to our journey. We completed the loop and headed back to Paracas.
Restaurante Chalana. When it came to the views, it was just splendid. Definitely worth the money spent.",
icon: "Star"
}
]}
/>
*Have you cycled through the Paracas National Reserve? Did you see the pink flamingos? Which viewpoint was your favorite? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
Why cycle? The bike was hard work, but it allows you to explore the National Park at your own pace and venture to places where buses or cars can't go."
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Bike rental: 25 soles per bike for the day. This seems to be the standard price around Paracas. You can book through your hostel or local shops."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Distance: 6 km from town to visitor center, 2.3 km to intersection, 10 km to Cathedral, 8 km to Playa Roja, and 11 km back to Paracas. Total: approximately 35 km with extra exploration."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Start early! Leave at 6 AM to beat the heat and wind. The park office opens at 8 AM (entrance fee: 15 soles per person)."
},
{
icon: "Compass",
text: "Cycle the loop clockwise - the first section to La Catedral is less scenic, saving the best views for later in your ride."
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Bring plenty of water! There are no facilities inside the reserve. The desert heat can be intense, especially after 10 AM."
},
{
icon: "Backpack",
text: "Pack: Sunscreen, hat, sunglasses, snacks, and a camera. The road gets bumpy and sandy in sections."
},
{
icon: "AlertTriangle",
text: "Wind warning: Afternoon winds can be extremely strong and make cycling difficult. Morning rides are much more pleasant."
}
]}
/>
**Cycling through the Paracas National Reserve was one of the highlights of our time in Peru. The freedom to explore at our own pace, the stunning desert-meets-ocean landscapes, and the solitude of the open road made this adventure unforgettable. Far more rewarding than any bus tour!**
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### Valle de Cocora: Hiking Colombia's Wax Palm Valley
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/valle-de-cocora-cocora-valley
Location: Salento, Colombia
Date: 2018-04-12
**The Valle de Cocora, or Cocora Valley, was the highlight of our trip to Salento in Colombia's coffee region, Eje Cafetero. The hike was bucket list-worthy, and it didn't disappoint. The main reason the trek was popular was the giant Colombian wax palms, but there was so much more to explore.**
### Getting to the Valle de Cocora
We caught one of the shared jeeps, called **Willys**, that were leaving every hour from the central plaza - the main square in Salento. They were cheap. We paid 4,000 COP each and left with the first ride at 6:30 AM. Theoretically, jeeps were leaving from 6:30 AM to 2:30 PM every hour. In practice, they usually rode off once they had 8 to 12 passengers - 2 in front, 6-8 at the back, and 2 standing outside.
The ride took about half an hour through the beautiful countryside - farms, green pastures, happy cows and a few famed palm trees here and there. The truck dropped us off at the trailhead of the **Valle de Cocora**. Most people do the long hike counterclockwise, starting from the blue gate. When the weather is cloudy, that was probably the best choice, hoping it will clear up during the day.
### Choosing the Clockwise Route
The sky had a beautiful shade of blue dotted with a few puffy white clouds. We knew the weather could quickly change, and we didn't want to take the risk. Therefore, we set off straight up along the paved road up to the Bosque de las Palmas. **In other words, we elected to hike the long loop clockwise starting by the giant palms of the Valle de Cocora.** A gentleman explained to us, in Spanish, the trail and invited us to pay the entrance fee of COP 3,000. We got confused with the information, but we had a map drawn by our hotel receptionist. So what could go wrong?
### The Majestic Wax Palms
After 30 minutes, we were walking amongst the **world's tallest palm trees**, growing up to 65 meters. The ones around us were shooting up 50 meters into the air. The iconic **wax palms** also happen to be the national tree and the symbol of Colombia, even though it's technically (or botanically) not a tree. The scenery was stunning and unique. **The impressive giants only grow in rare places like the Valle de Cocora.**
We carried uphill for another hour to get an elevated view of the giants. The view of those monumental plants towering from the bright green field was postcard-perfect material. **A few miradors, on the right-hand side of the trail, provided different lookout points of the Cocora Valley, the enticing rolling green hills dotted with hundreds of wax palms.**
### Into the Cloud Forest
After entering the cloud forest, we made our way up to **Finca La Montaña**. Since the Cocora Valley was part of the **Los Nevados National Natural Park**, the hike provided a variety of scenery along the walk - ample green fields, lush tropical vegetation, rolling mountains, creeks, and waterfalls.
Suddenly we heard an angry dog barking. We knew we arrived at the coffee farmhouse located at the top of the mountain. We were confused on how to continue the trail. The sign for ACAIME was pointing to the right. But instead, we had to open the door and walk down the hill.
### Acaime: The Hummingbird Sanctuary
Once we reached the wooden signs with "Acaime La Casa de Los Colibris" and the red arrow, we could have turned right and completed the full circle. Instead, we followed the red arrow as we wanted to visit the hummingbirds. **Acaime was essentially a hummingbird sanctuary and a strategically placed coffee shop.** It was one kilometer uphill off the main trail but was worth the extra effort. For COP 5,000, we were greeted with a hot drink, cheese and countless hummingbirds drinking from the sugar water feeders. We had never seen so many birds so up close.
After sipping on the watery hot chocolate, chewing the piece of cheese and taking selfies (yeah, selfies) with the hummingbirds, we left the shelter and headed back towards the "red cross" section to complete the loop. We ignored the sign for 4 Estrella de Agua. You should too. We weren't going to the National Park and didn't want to get lost or add 2-3 hours to our trek.
### The River Trail and Suspension Bridges
From there, the trail followed the **Quindío River** and turned into an uneven, muddy and rocky pathway full of rocks, horse manure and puddles. We crossed five old rickety suspension bridges made of wooden planks. Walking on them was fun and scary as they would swing in both directions. We spotted travelers on horseback crossing the river.
### Return Through the Palm Valley
Upon leaving the dense rainforest, we entered the last section made of unbelievable green pastures lining up both sides of the trail. Once again we were surrounded by the surreal, striking landscapes sprinkled with the slender and soaring wax palms.
After a wonderful 6 hours of hiking through the **Valle de Cocora**, we caught a truck back to Salento from the very small parking lot.
*Have you hiked the Valle de Cocora? Did you go clockwise or counterclockwise? Did you visit the hummingbird sanctuary at Acaime? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
3 hiking options: Clockwise loop (easier uphill, muddy downhill), counterclockwise loop (steep uphill, save best for last), or short visit to palm viewpoint only (1 hour)."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "The full loop takes 5-6 hours. Start early (6:30 AM jeep) to beat afternoon clouds and rain."
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Costs: Willy jeep from Salento 4,000 COP each way, clockwise entrance 3,000 COP, counterclockwise entrance 2,000 COP, Acaime hummingbird sanctuary 5,000 COP (includes hot drink and cheese)."
},
{
icon: "Compass",
text: "Clockwise route: Best if weather is clear when you arrive. See wax palms first in case clouds roll in. Entrance: 3,000 COP."
},
{
icon: "Compass",
text: "Counterclockwise route: More challenging uphill but saves the best palm scenery for the end. Good if cloudy morning. Entrance: 2,000 COP."
},
{
icon: "AlertTriangle",
text: "Acaime detour: 1 km uphill off main trail but worth it for close-up hummingbird encounters. Skip the 4 Estrella de Agua sign to avoid getting lost."
},
{
icon: "Backpack",
text: "Bring: Waterproof jacket, good hiking boots (trail gets muddy), water, snacks, camera. The suspension bridges can be slippery!"
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Willy jeeps leave Salento's main plaza hourly from 6:30 AM to 2:30 PM, but actually depart when they have 8-12 passengers. Last return jeep around 4-5 PM."
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Weather changes rapidly! Morning sun can turn to afternoon rain. Even if sunny, bring rain gear."
}
]}
/>
**The Valle de Cocora hike was absolutely unforgettable. Walking amongst the world's tallest wax palms, crossing swaying suspension bridges, and getting up close with hummingbirds made this one of the best hiking experiences in Colombia. A must-do when visiting the coffee region!**
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### From Medellin to Manizales: Journey to Colombia's Coffee Capital
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/medellin-manizales
Location: Medellin, Colombia
Date: 2018-04-10
**For our last day in Medellín, we visited the historical center and the neighborhood of Botero Plaza. The square was filled with the famous sculptures of Fernando Botero, a figurative artist and sculptor. The rest of the day would be spent in a minivan traveling from Medellín to Manizales.**
### Morning in Medellín: Botero Plaza
Before leaving Medellín, we explored the historic center and **Botero Plaza**, a public square showcasing the iconic sculptures of **Fernando Botero**, Colombia's most famous artist. The plaza features his signature style - exaggerated, voluptuous figures cast in bronze. These oversized sculptures of people, animals, and everyday objects have become symbols of Medellín's cultural renaissance.
### Getting to the Bus Terminal
Our hotel, [Florencia Plaza Medellín](https://www.booking.com/hotel/co/florencia-plaza.html?aid=1296479;), called a yellow taxi for us. Five minutes later we were on the way to **Terminal Del Sur**, the southern bus terminal in Medellín. Close to El Poblado, the ride only cost us COP 10,000 (approximately $3 USD).
Different ticket booths offered journeys to Manizales with prices ranging from COP 35,000 to COP 40,000 ($11-13 USD). Our minivan wasn't leaving straight away. We were hungry. The terminal was attached to a shopping mall filled with low-quality food stalls. Therefore, we settled for a mediocre Subway sandwich. With full bellies, we jumped into the 8-passenger minivan for what should have been a 5-hour ride to Manizales.
### The Scenic (and Long) Journey
The twisted road, stretching over 200 kilometers between the two Colombian cities, took us on a scenic ride through rolling green mountains and deep valleys. The landscape was stunning - typical of Colombia's coffee region with lush vegetation and dramatic elevation changes.
Suddenly, we stopped. The traffic was snarled up in both directions because of an accident. We waited for 40 minutes before the traffic slowly started to resume its crawl toward Manizales. Unfortunately, that was just the beginning of our troubles. Frequent roadworks on the 2-lane mountain road added considerable (and unnecessary) time to our journey. We stopped for a short break around the halfway point and were desperate to stretch our legs.
### Arrival in Coffee Country
At 9 PM, delayed by over 3 hours, we finally arrived at **Manizales**, the main center for the production of Colombian coffee. The Manizales bus terminal was conveniently located at a cable car station. Exhausted from the long journey, we set off for a hotel close to the station as we were too late to check in at our pre-booked Bed and Breakfast.
*Have you traveled from Medellin to Manizales? Did you experience traffic delays or roadworks? What was your experience of Botero Plaza? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
Route: 200 km mountain road through Colombia's coffee region. Scenic but winding with potential for delays."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Expected journey time: 5 hours. Reality: 8 hours with traffic accidents and roadworks. Plan for delays!"
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Minivan ticket: COP 35,000-40,000 ($11-13 USD). Taxi from El Poblado to Terminal Del Sur: COP 10,000 ($3 USD)."
},
{
icon: "Bus",
text: "Depart from Terminal Del Sur (Southern Bus Terminal) in Medellin. Multiple companies offer the route - shop around for best price."
},
{
icon: "AlertTriangle",
text: "Warning: The mountain road has frequent roadworks and can have accidents causing significant delays. Start early in the day!"
},
{
icon: "Backpack",
text: "Bring snacks and water. Terminal food options are limited and low quality. The journey can take much longer than advertised."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Don't miss Botero Plaza in Medellin's historic center before you leave. It's a quick visit with free admission to see the famous sculptures."
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Manizales bus terminal is at the cable car station (teleférico), making it easy to reach accommodation in the city center."
}
]}
/>
**The journey from Medellin to Manizales is more about the destination than the journey itself. While the mountain scenery is beautiful, roadworks and potential delays make this a challenging travel day. However, arriving in Manizales - the heart of Colombia's coffee country - makes it all worthwhile. Just be prepared for a long day and start early!**
### Guatapé and La Piedra: Epic Day Trip from Medellin
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/guatape-and-la-piedra-day-trip-medellin
Location: Guatapé, Colombia
Date: 2018-04-09
**We escaped metropolitan Medellin to climb a 200-meter high monolith rock near Guatapé. We ended up wandering in the finest and most colorful town in Colombia, Guatapé.**
### Getting to Guatapé from Medellin
Today's adventure began with a 15-minute walk from our hotel, [Hotel Florencia Plaza Medellin](https://www.booking.com/hotel/co/florencia-plaza.html?aid=1296479;), to the metro station in **Poblado**. We jumped on the blue line Metro to Caribe station. We loved the Metro in Medellín - clean, fast, and secure. We crossed the pedestrian bridge to reach **Terminal del Norte**. The popular bus station was massive and confusing but the best and cheapest option for our **Guatapé and La Piedra day trip from Medellin**. The terminal had a medium-sized mall attached to it for any last-minute purchases.
On the ground floor, we quickly found the different bus companies and their ticket booths. We looked around hoping to find written somewhere 'GUATAPÉ'. A gentleman spotted us and asked if we were going to Guatapé. *How did he know?* Maybe all the gringos were going to **Guatapé from Medellín**. He kindly directed us to window number 14. The choice was simple: 'Guatapé centre' or 'Guatapé La Piedra'. We tried to buy a round-trip journey but they didn't sell them. We would have to buy the return ticket from Guatapé on the way back. We bought a single ticket for 'Guatapé La Piedra' at COP 13,000 each ($4 USD).
### Climbing La Piedra del Peñol
**Two hours later, we saw from a distance the majestic monolith rock "La Piedra del Peñol"**. The locals simply called it **La Piedra** or The Stone. We got off at the stop, El Peñol, by the fuel station. We were swarmed by about three tuk-tuk drivers offering a ride up to the bottom of the rock. We ignored them, saved COP 10,000, and walked up the 293 steps to the entrance.
After paying COP 18,000 each ($6 USD) and enduring the **725 steps** built on one side of the natural marvel, we reached the top. **La Piedra del Peñol** was most likely the result of a volcanic eruption that happened millions of years ago. It has an imposing and surreal form. **The 360-degree view from the 66 million tonne rock was breathtaking.**
While primarily a farming community, the region was flooded after the construction of the hydroelectric dam. The unforeseen consequence resulted in emerald pools nurtured by the river Nare and islets formed by what were previously hilltops!
### Exploring Colorful Guatapé
After a careful walk back down the steps, we hopped on a bus to **Guatapé**, the most colorful town in Colombia. The small and picturesque town was amazing - beautiful, relaxing, charming. We wandered through the streets with cameras in hand, admiring the frescoes called **Zócalos** that adorned the lower half of most buildings.
The sculpted and painted bas-reliefs told the story of the family, the ancestors or the business that owns the houses. We saw images of livestock, birds, sailboats, plants and musical instruments among others. Most of the walls looked freshly painted, making the town feel like an open-air art gallery.
### Lunch and Return Journey
We were hungry. A trip to Guatapé would not have been complete without tasting the local specialty - **fresh fried trout** served with rice. With full stomachs, we headed back to Medellín. The bus station was behind the Parque Principal, located on the riverside. We bought our tickets from the tiny office as the bus was ready to leave the parking lot.
*Have you done the Guatapé day trip from Medellin? Did you climb all 725 steps of La Piedra? Which colorful building was your favorite in Guatapé? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
No tour needed! Doing Guatapé and La Piedra from Medellin independently is easy and much cheaper than organized tours."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Take the Metro blue line from Poblado to Caribe station, then walk across the pedestrian bridge to Terminal del Norte. Buy tickets at window 14."
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Bus to La Piedra: COP 13,000 ($4 USD) one way. La Piedra entrance: COP 18,000 ($6 USD). Return bus from Guatapé to Medellin: COP 13,000."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Go early! Start climbing La Piedra before 10 AM to beat the heat and crowds. The 725 steps can be exhausting in the midday sun."
},
{
icon: "Compass",
text: "The bus goes to La Piedra first, then continues to Guatapé town. Do the rock climb first, then explore the colorful town after."
},
{
icon: "AlertTriangle",
text: "Bring your passport! Police may control the bus in and out of Guatapé. A copy works fine."
},
{
icon: "Bus",
text: "Visit the toilet before the bus - it won't stop during the 2-hour ride. Get a seat on the right side for the best views of the rock."
},
{
icon: "Backpack",
text: "Bring water and snacks. The shops around La Piedra are overpriced. Fresh fried trout in Guatapé is the local specialty!"
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Tuk-tuk from La Piedra to Guatapé town: COP 10,000 ($3 USD). Or walk in 1 hour (not the most scenic route)."
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Guatapé fills up with tourists on weekends. Visit on weekdays for a quieter, more relaxing experience. Return buses leave from behind Parque Principal."
}
]}
/>
**The Guatapé and La Piedra day trip from Medellin was one of the highlights of our time in Colombia. The climb up La Piedra was challenging but the 360° views were absolutely worth it. Combine that with wandering Guatapé's colorful streets and you have a perfect day trip. Don't miss this when visiting Medellin!**
Pin These Moments
### La Fortuna Hike: Mirador El Silencio Trail
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/la-fortuna-hike-mirador-el-silencio
Location: La Fortuna, Costa Rica
Date: 2018-03-12
**La Fortuna had no shortage of outdoor activities. With a huge lake, plenty of nature trails, rivers, waterfalls, a National Park and vast countryside, the area has something for everyone. We picked "Mirador El Silencio Trail", a lesser-known trek in La Fortuna that offered incredible volcano views and peaceful rainforest hiking.**
### Getting to Mirador El Silencio
**El Silencio Trail** was located fifteen minutes drive from the town center along the main road that ran around the volcano toward the lake. We booked a ride through our hotel, [Arenal Xilopalo](https://www.booking.com/hotel/cr/arenal-xilopalo.html?aid=1296479;), to be picked up upon conclusion of our visit.
We woke up early. We skipped breakfast and headed straight to the reserve to be the first ones and to enjoy the wildlife when it was still active. The driver dropped us at the reserve entrance where we paid **4,000 colones per person** ($7 USD). The gentleman at the ticket booth gave us a short introduction and a map with a couple of different trails including the lava beds from the 1968 eruption. Six trails could be traveled with the help of a tour guide specializing in natural history or self-guided. We chose the latter and were advised to keep right until reaching the base of the volcano and come back by trail #2.
### Through the Rainforest
We navigated **El Silencio Trail** through heavily forested areas, open grass walking paths and stunning landscapes. Slowly, we wandered for 2 hours, surrounded by the sights and sounds of the rainforest. The wildlife was incredible. We saw loads of birds including Chestnut-mandibled toucans, a dozen hummingbirds, and an unidentified monkey species swinging through the canopy.
### Volcano Viewpoint
We stumbled upon an incredible volcano viewpoint. We marveled at the panoramic view of the **Arenal Volcano**, the most impressive giant in Costa Rica at 1,670 meters. We soon realized that we were the only hikers. **The Silencio Trail** was definitely very quiet compared to other popular La Fortuna hikes such as the Arenal 1968 or Cerro Chato Volcano Hike. Both of which are near Arenal Observatory and the Arenal National Park.
### Historic Lava Fields
We carried on to the historic lava fields which buried much of the surrounding jungle during the **1968 eruption**. The old lava, the endless forest, the lake and once again the magnificent Arenal Volcano made up the picture-perfect moment. We soaked up the tranquil ambiance.
We noticed a last trail descending to the green lagoon. The area was full of birds and the sounds of the rainforest echoed around us.
### Free Hot Springs to Finish
After 4 hours, we finished the walk in the most relaxing way - taking a break at a nearby natural hot water river. The **free hot spring** was off the side of the road near the [Tabacon Grand Spa Thermal Resort](https://www.booking.com/hotel/cr/tabacon-grand-spa-thermal-resort.html?aid=1296479;). It was 2 kilometers from the Silencio Trail entrance/exit. We dipped in the soothing warm water to relax our muscles before calling our hotel to pick us up!
**The El Silencio trail** enjoyed a more peaceful vibe than the hikes at the Arenal park and observatory. The reserve is more off the beaten path with loads of wildlife and far fewer tourists.
*Have you hiked the Silencio Trail in La Fortuna or any other trails? Did you do so with a guide or on your own? What wildlife did you spot? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
Pura Vida! 🇨🇷
Go early! Arrive when the reserve opens to be first on the trail and see the most wildlife. Morning is when animals are most active."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Location: 15 minutes drive from La Fortuna town center along the road toward Arenal Lake. Arrange transport with your hotel."
},
{
icon: "Compass",
text: "6 trails available - we recommend the loop: keep right to the volcano base, return via trail #2. Allow 3-4 hours for the full hike."
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Self-guided or guided: Trails are well-marked and safe for self-guided hiking. Tour guides available for those wanting natural history insights."
},
{
icon: "Backpack",
text: "Bring: Water, snacks, binoculars for wildlife, camera, rain jacket. The rainforest can be humid and occasional rain showers occur."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Best viewpoints: Volcano mirador, 1968 lava fields, and green lagoon. Much quieter than Arenal 1968 or Cerro Chato trails."
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Free hot springs! After your hike, stop at the natural hot river 2 km away (near Tabacon resort). Free and perfect for sore muscles!"
}
]}
/>
**The Mirador El Silencio trail was the perfect La Fortuna hike - peaceful, uncrowded, with stunning Arenal Volcano views and incredible wildlife encounters. Combined with the free hot springs afterwards, it made for an unforgettable day in Costa Rica's adventure capital. Pura Vida!**
### Monteverde Night Tour: Wildlife in Costa Rica's Cloud Forest
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/monteverde-night-tour
Location: Monteverde, Costa Rica
Date: 2018-03-09
**After a long bus journey from San José, we arrived in Monteverde, the Green Mountain. Since 80% of the cloud forest wildlife is nocturnal, a Monteverde night tour was the perfect way to explore the unique beauty and diversity of this Costa Rican paradise.**
### Getting to Monteverde from San José
The roads to reach the mountaintop paradise of Monteverde were treacherous. We were happy to have chosen public transportation from **Terminal 7-11 in San José**. At only **2,845 colones** ($5 USD), we could relax and admire the scenery along the winding dirt road. Private shuttles cost much more for roughly the same driving time. The only advantage was the air conditioning, which was a non-necessary luxury in March.
Upon arriving in the quaint town of **Santa Elena/Monteverde**, the sky was bright blue. The small town was surrounded by an extensive reserve of lush greenery. A very light rain was constantly falling from the verdant forests - the mist that gives the cloud forest its name. We checked in at the familial **Hotel Santa Fe**. The charming accommodation was within walking distance from the center where we found numerous cute cafes, bars and restaurants.
### Why Choose a Night Tour in Monteverde?
Our goal in Monteverde was to spot animals in their natural habitat. The green oasis was brimming with plants and animals. But since **80% of the wildlife is nocturnal**, a night tour was the best option to explore the cloud forest when it truly comes alive.
We booked a last-minute **Monteverde night tour** from our hotel, freshened up, ate Costa Rican food, geared up and waited for the bus shuttle. Our tour began at **5:30 PM** just before nightfall when most creatures wake up, look for mates, and hunt. The cloud forest really came alive at that time.
### Exploring the Cloud Forest After Dark
Equipped with flashlights, we made our way through the windy forest trails. The group was large with another 10 fellow explorers, so we stayed close to our local guide. We were incredibly lucky to see a lot of amazing **insects, birds and mammals** including:
- **Armadillo** - scurrying through the underbrush
- **Opossum** - hanging from tree branches
- **2-toed sloth** - moving slowly through the canopy
We learned that only 2-toed sloths live in Monteverde. 3-toed sloths don't have enough fur to survive in the cool, misty cloud forests!
### The Monteverde Night Tour Experience
We strolled through the private reserve for almost 2 hours and highly enjoyed our **Monteverde night tour**. The experience was enthralling - we would have never encountered so many insects and mammals during the day. The forest sounds at night were incredible, and our guide's expert eye helped us spot creatures we never would have seen on our own.
The cloud forest ecosystem is unique, with constant moisture from the mist supporting an incredible diversity of life. Walking through it at night felt like entering another world.
*Have you done a night tour in Monteverde or another cloud forest? What nocturnal animals did you spot? Did you prefer the night tour to daytime hikes? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
Pura Vida! 🇨🇷
Wear good walking shoes and long pants to protect against branches, trees and mosquitoes. The trails can be muddy from the constant mist."
},
{
icon: "Bug",
text: "Bug repellent is a must! The cloud forest has plenty of mosquitoes and other insects, especially at dusk."
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Bring water even though it's only 2 hours. The humidity and walking make you thirsty."
},
{
icon: "AlertTriangle",
text: "Always follow your guide's instructions. Don't walk off the trail or touch trees or bushes. You don't want to touch a green viper!"
},
{
icon: "Flashlight",
text: "The guide provides flashlights for everyone but they are weak and mainly for walking. Bring your own headlamp if you have one."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Do not use flash unless allowed by the guide - it can disturb the animals. A good lens makes a huge difference for photographing sloths hiding in trees."
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Manage your expectations. You are not in a zoo. Animals will be up in trees or hiding. The experience is about connecting with nature, not guaranteed sightings."
},
{
icon: "CloudRain",
text: "The cloud forest gets its name from constant mist. Bring a light rain jacket - the moisture is part of the experience!"
}
]}
/>
**The Monteverde night tour was a highlight of our Costa Rica adventure. There's something magical about exploring the cloud forest after dark, when the nocturnal creatures emerge. If you're visiting Monteverde, don't miss the chance to experience the rainforest at night - it's a completely different world!**
### Chichen Itza: Exploring the Maya Temples of Yucatan
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/maya-chichen-itza-temples-yucatan
Location: Chichen Itza, Mexico
Date: 2018-03-05
**Today we visited Chichen Itza, the most well-known and most visited Mayan ruins site in Mexico. By staying overnight in nearby Piste, we could explore this archaeological wonder before the sun became too hot and before the day-trippers from Cancun arrived.**
### Beating the Crowds at Chichen Itza
With over a million visitors per year, the ruins of **Chichen Itza** are always crowded. The only chance to beat the insanely large crowds is to arrive as early as possible when the site opens at **8:00 AM**.
And it worked! We arrived at the ruins shortly before they opened. After paying our admission fee (**254 pesos per person**, about $14 USD), we were among the first to pass the main gate and explore one of the **New Seven Wonders of the World**. The feeling of being nearly alone to discover this expansive site was incredible. We saw the ruins as only few could experience them. Over 3,500 tourists would invade the serenity of Chichen Itza later that same day!
### Temple of Kukulkan: El Castillo
After entering the ruins, the first structure we encountered was the **30-meter-tall Temple of Kukulkan**, also known as **El Castillo** (the castle). This famous landmark is the pyramid illustrated in every photograph of Chichen Itza. Built in the heart of the ancient city, the breathtaking structure is the star of the show - doubtless the reason why Chichen Itza became a Wonder of the World.
The Mayas were incredibly advanced in mathematics, astronomy, and had already mastered time. For example, each staircase along the four sides of the Temple of Kukulkan is made of **91 stone steps**. Adding them together plus the platform at the top gives a total of **365** - the number of days in a year.
After soaking up the incredible architectural design of this Maya jewel, we moved on to explore more Mayan ruins.
### The Great Ball Court (Juego de Pelota)
Chichen Itza contains the **largest ball court of any discovered Mayan site**. Bounded by tall walls, the **150-meter long court** is longer than any modern-day football field. The ancient players would throw a small rubber ball through the opposing team's ring using only their knees, hips, elbows and heads - hands were not allowed! It's still debated whether the winners or losers were sacrificed after the game!
### Plaza of a Thousand Columns
We wandered amongst the exquisitely restored and impressive structures, enjoying every minute. The buildings are the legacy of thousands of very skilled Mayan craftsmen including sculptors, weavers, jewellers and potters.
### Exploring Beyond the Main Attractions
By 9:40 AM, vendors had arrived. "*Hola amigo, un dollar, un dollar*". "*Good price, good price*". They can be persistent and they're everywhere. The crowds were also getting gradually bigger. Therefore, we ventured into the less popular sections of the site where we found **El Caracol** (the Observatory). Tour buses don't have time to explore these sections. Once again, we could enjoy Chichen Itza in a peaceful and more relaxed atmosphere.
### Temple of the Skulls (Tzompantli)
The **Temple of the Skulls** features intricate carvings depicting rows of human skulls. This platform was used in ceremonies and serves as a reminder of the Maya civilization's complex rituals and beliefs.
### Osario Temple (Tomb of the High Priest)
The **Osario Temple** is another impressive pyramid structure. While smaller than El Castillo, it features similar architectural elements and offers insight into the sacred burial practices of Maya nobility.
### Our Chichen Itza Experience
Chichen Itza is a magnificent and exceptional ruins site. The site is absolutely worth visiting, but avoiding the crowds makes it even more spectacular. That would be our best advice: **spend a night in Piste**. The small village is quiet and has limited entertainment, but it gives you a critical head start to appreciate this New Wonder of the World in peace.
Don't stick only to the main buildings like El Castillo. Explore every section and you'll be amazed by structures like the Temple of the Skulls or the detailed carvings of La Iglesia.
*Have you visited Chichen Itza? Did you arrive early to beat the crowds? Which structure impressed you the most - El Castillo, the Great Ball Court, or perhaps El Caracol? Did you visit the nearby Cenote Ik Kil for a swim? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
Arrive at 8 AM opening! This is THE most important tip. The difference between arriving at opening vs 10 AM is night and day. Early arrival means fewer crowds and cooler temperatures."
},
{
icon: "Hotel",
text: "Stay in Piste village the night before. It's only 2 km from the ruins entrance. The village itself is basic, but the early access to Chichen Itza is priceless."
},
{
icon: "Bus",
text: "If coming by bus, buy a ticket to Piste, not Chichen Itza, or you could end up walking 2 km to the village accommodations."
},
{
icon: "Sun",
text: "Bring sunscreen, a hat, and plenty of water. The Yucatan sun is intense and there's limited shade among the ruins. Start early before it gets unbearably hot."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "The best photos of El Castillo are in the early morning when the sun is behind you and before crowds fill the plaza. Arrive at opening for that perfect shot!"
},
{
icon: "ShoppingCart",
text: "Vendors can be persistent (\"one dollar, one dollar!\"). A polite \"no gracias\" works. They set up by 9:30 AM."
},
{
icon: "Map",
text: "Don't just see El Castillo and leave! Explore the entire site including El Caracol Observatory, Temple of Skulls, and Plaza of a Thousand Columns. Most tour groups skip these."
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Cenote Ik Kil is 3 km away - a beautiful cenote open for swimming. Entrance: 70 pesos/person. Perfect for cooling off after exploring the hot ruins!"
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "The site opens at 8 AM and closes at 5 PM daily. Allow 3-4 hours to explore thoroughly, or 2 hours if you only want to see the main highlights."
},
{
icon: "Footprints",
text: "Wear comfortable walking shoes. The site is large (over 5 square km) with uneven stone paths and lots of walking."
}
]}
/>
**Chichen Itza truly deserves its status as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. The architectural achievements of the Maya civilization are breathtaking. Our strategy of staying in Piste and arriving at opening time made all the difference - we experienced the majesty of El Castillo and the Great Ball Court in peaceful tranquility. If you visit Chichen Itza, make the effort to arrive early. It's absolutely worth it!**
### Uxmal Ruins: A Quieter Alternative to Chichen Itza
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/uxmal-ruins
Location: Uxmal, Mexico
Date: 2018-03-03
**Keen to be independent travelers, we skipped the combo Kabah/Uxmal ruins tour and decided to have our own DIY Uxmal ruins day trip from Merida. Pronounced "oosh-mal," this UNESCO World Heritage Site offered a quieter, more intimate experience than Chichen Itza.**
### Getting to Uxmal from Merida
One option was to rent a car at **600 pesos** (900 with full insurance) per day, but we didn't feel like driving long hours. The second-best option was an early bus at **6:00 AM** from the **TAM Bus station in Merida**.
Waking up at 5:00 AM was painful, but **Uxmal and Chichen Itza** were the reasons we were traveling the Mexican state of Yucatan. We bought an open return ticket at **130 pesos per person** ($7 USD) and jumped on the bus. It took a little more than an hour to reach the site - not quite enough time to catch up on sleep!
### A Peaceful Experience at Uxmal
We were amongst the few visitors waiting for the ticket booth to open at **8:00 AM**. The site was remarkably quiet. Compared to Chichen Itza, the **Uxmal ruins** are definitely off-the-beaten-path with fewer tourists venturing that far. The tourist hordes from Cancun resorts and Cozumel cruise port opt for Chichen Itza since it's one of the Seven Wonders of the World and easier to reach.
The **UNESCO World Heritage Site** was massive and impressive. What made it special? **We could climb most of the structures** - something you can no longer do at Chichen Itza! It was a perfect spot to spend half a day. We wandered through temples, pyramids and ceremonial structures in various states of preservation. The Maya city was one of the best-preserved ancient sites in Mexico, offering an incredible immersion in Mayan art and **Puuc architecture**.
**Puuc Style**: This architectural style is defined by structures split horizontally into two parts, with the lower section plain and the upper section decorated with intricate stone mosaics.
### The Pyramid of the Magician
Upon entrance, we were overwhelmed by the **Pyramid of the Magician**, also called the Pyramid of the Dwarf. The pyramid was Uxmal's most awe-inspiring building with its unique **rounded corners** - unlike the sharp edges of most Maya pyramids. At **35 meters high**, it was the tallest structure at Uxmal but unfortunately the only building we couldn't climb. What a shame!
According to legend, the pyramid was built overnight by a dwarf who was hatched from an egg and magically grew to adulthood in one day. While the real construction took several phases spanning centuries, the legend adds mystique to this architectural marvel.
### The Governor's Palace
The **Governor's Palace**, standing farther south, was the finest example of the Puuc style. This was definitely our preferred building with its impressive mosaics covering over 20,000 individual stone pieces! The long building sits atop a platform and commands stunning views of the entire site.
It's easy to understand that at its peak, the population of the city reached about **25,000 people**, making Uxmal one of the largest cities in the Yucatán.
### The Nunnery Quadrangle
West of the Pyramid of the Magician, we ventured into the **Nunnery Quadrangle**, consisting of four separate rectangular buildings with **74 individual rooms**. Despite its Spanish colonial name, this complex might have been a residence for students, soldiers, or priests - not nuns! The courtyard is surrounded by elaborately decorated facades featuring stone masks, lattice work, and serpent motifs.
### The Ball Court
Like Chichen Itza, Uxmal has a **ball court** where the ancient Maya played their sacred ball game. While smaller than Chichen Itza's court, it's still impressive and gives insight into this important ritual sport played throughout Mesoamerica.
### The Great Pyramid
We climbed to the top of the **Great Pyramid** - something you can't do at many Maya sites anymore! From the summit, we gazed down at the entire complex, imagining what this impressive site must have been like when the Mayans ruled the land. The view was absolutely worth the climb.
### The Pigeon House
The **Dovecote** (Pigeon House) got its name from the Spanish conquistadors who thought its roof comb with multiple openings resembled a dovecote. It's part of the Southern Complex and shows yet another architectural variation within the site.
### Our Uxmal Experience
Even if you visit Chichen Itza, **don't skip Uxmal**. You'll be treated to a quiet, intimate and serene experience. The ability to climb the pyramids, explore at your own pace without crowds, and appreciate the intricate Puuc architecture makes Uxmal a must-visit. The site feels more like a discovery than a tourist attraction.
*Have you been to Uxmal? Did you prefer it to Chichen Itza? Were you able to climb the pyramids when you visited? Which structure impressed you the most - the Pyramid of the Magician or the Governor's Palace? Have you visited any other Mayan ruins? Let us know in the comments below.*
Take the 6 AM bus from Merida to arrive when the site opens at 8 AM. Early arrival means fewer crowds and cooler temperatures. Waking up at 5 AM is worth it!"
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Uxmal is much less crowded than Chichen Itza. Most tour groups from Cancun and Cozumel skip Uxmal, making it a more peaceful experience."
},
{
icon: "TrendingUp",
text: "You can climb most structures! Unlike Chichen Itza where climbing is prohibited, Uxmal lets you climb the Great Pyramid and other buildings. Amazing views from the top!"
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "The Pyramid of the Magician with its unique rounded corners is a must-photograph. The Governor's Palace has over 20,000 mosaic stones - incredible detail up close."
},
{
icon: "Sun",
text: "Bring sunscreen, hat, and plenty of water. The Yucatan sun is intense and there's limited shade. Allow 3-4 hours to explore the entire site."
},
{
icon: "Map",
text: "Major structures: Pyramid of the Magician (tallest, can't climb), Governor's Palace (best Puuc style), Nunnery Quadrangle (74 rooms), Ball Court, Great Pyramid (climbable!)."
},
{
icon: "Bus",
text: "TAM Bus station in Merida has buses to Uxmal. Buy an open return ticket so you can catch any bus back after exploring at your own pace."
},
{
icon: "Car",
text: "Car rental from Merida: 600 pesos/day (900 with full insurance). Driving takes about 1 hour. Good option if you want to visit Kabah ruins too."
},
{
icon: "BookOpen",
text: "UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996. One of the best-preserved examples of Puuc Maya architecture. The city reached 25,000 people at its peak around 900 AD."
},
{
icon: "Hotel",
text: "You can stay near Uxmal (hotels within walking distance) but there isn't much to do. We recommend staying in beautiful Merida and doing Uxmal as a day trip."
}
]}
/>
**Uxmal is an absolute gem - a quieter, more intimate alternative to Chichen Itza where you can still climb pyramids and explore at your own pace. The Puuc architecture is stunning, and the lack of crowds makes it feel like a personal discovery. Combined with its proximity to Merida, one of Mexico's most charming colonial cities, Uxmal should be on every Yucatan itinerary!**
### Monte Albán: Ancient Zapotec City Carved into a Mountaintop
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/zone-archaeological-monte-alban
Location: Oaxaca, Mexico
Date: 2018-02-24
**Oaxaca is famous in Mexico for its colonial architecture, indigenous markets and handicraft villages. But one of the highlights was the trip to the archaeological site of Monte Albán - a magnificent Zapotec city carved into a mountaintop.**
### Getting to Monte Albán from Oaxaca
We set off early - but not too early - to find the best way to reach the massive ruins of Monte Albán. We strolled through the **Zócalo** (main square) and found a cheap round-trip bus. We bought a return ticket for **70 pesos** ($4 USD) per person. By 11:00 AM, we were on the bus with a few fellow passengers heading southwest.
The grand pre-Columbian archaeological site of **Monte Albán** was built into a mountaintop **10 kilometers southwest** of the city of Oaxaca de Juárez, at an elevation of about 400 meters above the valley floor. We arrived shortly and were given **three hours to explore the site** - plenty of time to wander this incredible ancient city.
### The Zapotec Capital of Monte Albán
Occupied from the **8th century BC**, the site was a center of **Zapotec culture** from about the 1st century BC to the 8th century AD, after which it was occupied by the Mixtecs until the Spanish conquest in the 16th century. At its peak, Monte Albán had a population of around 25,000 people, making it one of the most important cities in Mesoamerica.
The ruins were majestic. For 2 hours we explored the terraces, dams, canals, pyramids and artificial mounds which were literally **carved out of the mountain**. The engineering feat is astounding - creating a massive flat plaza on a mountaintop, surrounded by pyramids and temples.
### Exploring the Great Plaza
The **Gran Plaza** (Great Plaza) is the heart of Monte Albán, a massive artificially leveled terrace stretching 300 meters long by 200 meters wide. Around this central plaza stand numerous structures:
- **The North Platform** - A massive complex with sunken patios and stairways
- **The Ball Court** - Where the ancient Mesoamerican ball game was played
- **Building of the Danzantes** - Featuring carved stone slabs with enigmatic figures
- **The South Platform** - Offering spectacular views across the valley
- **System IV** - The tallest pyramid structure at the site
The **views from the pyramids** were spectacular - you could see the entire valley of Oaxaca spread below, and appreciate the strategic importance of this mountaintop location. The Zapotecs chose this site not just for defense, but for its commanding position over the three valleys that converge near modern Oaxaca.
### Santo Domingo Church and a Mexican Wedding
Back from the pyramids, we wandered through Oaxaca, home to many impressive churches. The most stunning was **Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán**, a magnificent baroque church completed in 1608. The interior is covered in elaborate gold leaf decorations and intricate stucco work.
We were lucky enough to find ourselves in the middle of a **crazy wedding celebration**! Mexican weddings are vibrant affairs with music, dancing, colorful decorations, and the whole community joining in the festivities. It was a wonderful glimpse into local culture and traditions.
### Our Monte Albán Experience
Monte Albán is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and absolutely deserves the recognition. The combination of impressive archaeological remains, stunning mountain setting, and the incredible engineering achievement of creating a city on a mountaintop makes it one of Mexico's most remarkable ancient sites.
Unlike some more crowded archaeological sites, Monte Albán felt spacious and peaceful. You can climb most of the structures and really get a sense of the scale and grandeur of this ancient Zapotec capital.
*Have you visited Monte Albán? Did you take the bus from Oaxaca's Zócalo or go on a tour? Were you able to climb the pyramids? Did you also visit other ruins in Oaxaca state like Mitla? What did you think of Oaxaca city - the churches, markets, and food? Share your experiences in the comments below!*
**Monte Albán is an absolute must-visit when in Oaxaca. The mountaintop setting, well-preserved ruins, and the sheer scale of the Zapotec engineering achievement make it one of Mexico's most impressive archaeological sites. Combined with the colonial beauty of Oaxaca city, it's a perfect day exploring ancient and colonial Mexican history!**
### Puebla: Mexico's Foodie Capital and Colonial Gem
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/puebla-or-foodie-state
Location: Puebla, Mexico
Date: 2018-02-22
**After a few days in Mexico City, we headed for one of Mexico's foremost foodie destinations - Puebla. With indigenous and Spanish influences, the Historic Centre, recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, was a wonderful destination for culture, architecture, and incredible food.**
### Exploring Puebla's Historic Center
With only a day to explore the **fourth-largest city in Mexico**, we focused on the historical center. We loved, at first sight, the colorful facades, the colonial buildings, and the baroque architecture. The city center was clean, lively and safe with multiple pedestrian streets - a perfect place to wander around for a few hours.
### Puebla's Zócalo and Cathedral
We started our walking tour with **Puebla's Zócalo**, the main city square and the heart of the city. By the central plaza, we admired the gorgeous **Cathedral of Puebla**, dedicated to the Immaculate Conception. The building was a treasure of colonial art with its imposing facade and ornate interior.
The vibrant area was lined with numerous cafes, bars and restaurants. We couldn't resist! We stopped for a **gargantuan Mexican dinner** at [El Mural de los Poblanos](https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g152773-d1976753-Reviews-El_Mural_de_los_Poblanos-Puebla_Central_Mexico_and_Gulf_Coast.html).
### Puebla's Culinary Treasures
After an exquisite and traditional meal, we savored authentic **Mole Poblano** (the famous chili and chocolate sauce that originated in Puebla) and **Chalupas** (small fried tortillas with toppings). The flavors were incredible - this is where mole was invented, and you can taste the centuries of culinary tradition!
Puebla is considered the birthplace of several iconic Mexican dishes, and the food culture here is deeply rooted in both indigenous and Spanish colonial traditions.
### Biblioteca Palafoxiana: Oldest Library in the Americas
We visited the **Biblioteca Palafoxiana**, the oldest library in the Americas (founded in 1646). The library was just stunning - a hidden gem in Puebla. The baroque hall houses over 45,000 historical volumes on wooden shelves reaching to the ceiling. It's a bibliophile's dream and a UNESCO Memory of the World treasure.
### Chapel of Rosary: Baroque Splendor
Inside the rather sedate-looking **Templo de Santo Domingo**, we found an unbelievable treasure: **The Chapel of Rosary**. Every square inch was decorated largely with gold leaf! The gleaming dome was not our personal taste, but we could understand why the chapel is so appreciated by Poblanos for celebrating weddings and baptisms. It's considered one of the finest examples of New Spanish baroque art.
### La Calle de los Dulces (Sweets Street)
We strolled along **6 Oriente Street**, affectionately referred to as **"La Calle de los Dulces"** (Sweets Street). The street specialized in handmade candies and sweets which are famous all over the country. From **camotes** (sweet potato candies) to **tortitas de Santa Clara** (coconut cookies), Puebla's confectionery tradition dates back to colonial times when nuns created elaborate sweets.
### Museo de la Revolución
Further down the road, we found the **Museo de la Revolución Mexicana**. The bullet holes on the facade testified to the first shot of the Mexican Revolution, which began in Puebla in 1910. This house played a crucial role in Mexico's history.
### Teatro Principal and Barrio del Artista
We ended the tour with the beautiful and photogenic **Puebla's Teatro Principal**. The building, completed in **1760**, was among the oldest theaters in Mexico and is still functioning as a theater today. The neoclassical facade is stunning, especially illuminated at night.
Next, we explored artist studios and bars around the city's Artists Quarter, or **"Barrio del Artista"**. The place was perfect for a last drink before heading back to our Airbnb - colorful buildings, local art galleries, and a bohemian atmosphere.
### Our Puebla Experience
Puebla exceeded our expectations. The combination of UNESCO World Heritage architecture, incredible food (especially the mole!), fascinating history, and vibrant culture made it one of our favorite stops in Mexico. The city felt authentic, less touristy than some other colonial cities, yet incredibly welcoming.
One day wasn't nearly enough to experience everything Puebla has to offer, but we made the most of our time exploring the highlights. The foodie reputation is well-deserved - this is a culinary capital of Mexico!
*Have you visited Puebla? Did you try the famous Mole Poblano or Chalupas? Which restaurant did you enjoy most? Did you explore the Chapel of Rosary or the Biblioteca Palafoxiana? What about the street food and sweets on La Calle de los Dulces? Share your Puebla experiences in the comments below!*
Must-try foods: Mole Poblano (chocolate-chili sauce invented here), Chalupas, Cemitas (Pueblan sandwiches), and sweets from La Calle de los Dulces. El Mural de los Poblanos is excellent!"
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Biblioteca Palafoxiana entrance: ~40 pesos. Cathedral is free. Chapel of Rosary (inside Templo de Santo Domingo): free entry."
},
{
icon: "BookOpen",
text: "UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987. Puebla was founded in 1531 and has over 70 churches and 1,000 colonial buildings in the historic center."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Most photogenic spots: Cathedral facade, Zócalo, Teatro Principal, colorful buildings throughout centro histórico, and the Chapel of Rosary's golden interior."
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Don't miss: Chapel of Rosary (spectacular baroque gold decoration), Biblioteca Palafoxiana (oldest library in Americas), Museo de la Revolución (bullet holes from 1910 revolution)."
},
{
icon: "Footprints",
text: "The historic center has many pedestrian streets making walking pleasant. Wear comfortable shoes for exploring the colonial streets."
},
{
icon: "ShoppingBag",
text: "La Calle de los Dulces (6 Oriente) for traditional sweets like camotes and tortitas de Santa Clara. Barrio del Artista for local art and crafts."
},
{
icon: "Sun",
text: "Puebla sits at 2,150m altitude. Weather is generally mild year-round. Bring layers and sunscreen."
}
]}
/>
**Puebla is an absolute gem - a perfect blend of culinary excellence, colonial beauty, and authentic Mexican culture. The UNESCO World Heritage historic center is stunning, the food scene is world-class (home of mole!), and the city has a welcoming, less-touristy vibe. Whether you're a foodie, history buff, or architecture lover, Puebla delivers on all fronts. Highly recommended!**
### Teotihuacan: Exploring the Ancient City of the Gods from Mexico City
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/exploring-teotihuacan-mexico-city
Location: Teotihuacan, Mexico
Date: 2018-02-21
**We took a day trip to the ancient city and pyramids of Teotihuacan, also known as the City of the Gods. The UNESCO World Heritage Site was located on the outskirts of the capital, about 30 miles northeast of Mexico City. The public transportation to this pre-Columbian city was comfortable, easy and cheap.**
### Getting to Teotihuacan from Mexico City
On the way to the pyramids, we had to visit the **ADO office** to buy our bus connections to Puebla, Oaxaca and San Miguel de Allende. The ADO website was pretty good but didn't support foreign credit cards. Therefore, a visit to their ticket booth in **TAPO** (Terminal de Autobuses de Pasajeros de Oriente) was a necessary stop.
After completing our duties, we hopped on the metro and got off at the station **'Terminal Central del Norte'** (Line 5). We paid **104 pesos** ($6 USD) for a round-trip bus ticket. The first bus departed at **6:00 AM** and they left about every twenty minutes thereafter.
Before departure, an employee came aboard the bus to videotape each passenger's face. Weird! The same behavior also happened on the return journey where policemen accompanied the gentleman for another photo session. This is a security measure commonly used on Mexican buses.
The smooth journey to formerly Mesoamerica's greatest city took roughly an hour. Enough spare time to keep practicing our Spanish! The bus dropped us off by the **main entrance (Puerta 1 / Gate 1)**. We bought our admission ticket at **70 pesos** which also included entry to the museum. A few fellow passengers stayed on the bus to be dropped at Gates 2 and 3, which were closer to the main pyramids. We didn't mind walking and exploring the huge archaeological complex at our own pace.
### Temple of the Feathered Serpent (Quetzalcóatl)
Upon arriving at Teotihuacan, we were impressed by the size of the complex. Our first sight was the **Temple of the Feathered Serpent** (Temple of Quetzalcóatl). Surrounded by an arid, flat and dusty area, the temple was the most preserved with its iconic carved serpent heads adorning the eastern side. The hundred sacrificial burials discovered here showed the importance of this religious center in ancient Mesoamerican culture.
The intricate carvings feature alternating heads of the feathered serpent Quetzalcóatl and the fire serpent, surrounded by seashells and other aquatic symbols. This temple dates from around 200-250 AD and was once painted in vibrant colors.
### Pyramid of the Sun: The Third Largest in the World
We strolled down the **Avenue of the Dead** to reach **Pirámide del Sol** (Pyramid of the Sun). We climbed all the way to the top of the **third-largest pyramid in the world**! After **248 steep and uneven steps**, we were rewarded with a beautiful view of the Avenue of the Dead and the Pyramid of the Moon.
At **216 feet high** (65 meters), the Pyramid of the Sun is an engineering marvel built around 200 AD. It contains over 1 million cubic meters of adobe bricks and earth without any interior rooms - it's completely solid! The climb is challenging, especially in the hot sun, but the panoramic views from the top are absolutely worth it.
### Pyramid of the Moon and the Avenue of the Dead
We walked halfway up the **Pyramid of the Moon** as visitors weren't allowed to reach the summit. Still, we could see the entire site including the Pyramid of the Sun and the main street of Teotihuacan - the **Avenue of the Dead** - lined with many smaller temples and platforms.
The **Avenue of the Dead** stretches over 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) and was the main axis of the city. Despite its name, it wasn't actually used for burials - Spanish conquistadors mistakenly thought the platforms lining the avenue were tombs, hence the morbid name. In reality, these were ceremonial platforms and residential complexes.
### Teotihuacan: The Mysterious City
Teotihuacan was one of the largest cities in the ancient world, with a population estimated at 125,000-200,000 at its peak around 450 AD. Incredibly, we still don't know who built it! By the time the Aztecs arrived centuries later, the city was already abandoned and in ruins. The Aztecs named it **"Teotihuacan"** - meaning "the place where the gods were created" in Nahuatl.
The city's influence spread throughout Mesoamerica, and its architectural style can be seen as far away as the Maya cities of Guatemala. Yet the civilization that built it remains a mystery - we don't even know what language they spoke.
*Have you visited Teotihuacan from Mexico City? Did you climb to the top of the Pyramid of the Sun? How did you find the 248 steps in the heat? Did you take the bus or join a tour? Which pyramid impressed you more - the Sun or the Moon? Have you visited other pre-Columbian sites in Mexico? Share your experiences in the comments below!*
Start early! To avoid crowds and unbearable heat, take the first bus at 6 AM or arrive when the site opens at 9 AM. The site gets extremely hot and crowded by midday."
},
{
icon: "Bus",
text: "Bus from Mexico City: Take metro Line 5 to Terminal Central del Norte. Round-trip bus ticket: 104 pesos ($6 USD). Buses depart every 20 minutes from 6 AM."
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Site entrance: 70 pesos ($4 USD) includes museum access. Free for Mexican residents on Sundays (making it much more crowded)."
},
{
icon: "Sun",
text: "There is NO shade at Teotihuacan. None. Nada. Bring hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen. The sun is intense at this altitude and there's zero protection on the pyramids."
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Pack plenty of water and snacks. Once past the gates, food and drink options are non-existent. You'll need water climbing those pyramids in the heat!"
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "The bus drops at Gate 1 (main entrance). Gates 2 and 3 are closer to the main pyramids. Starting at Gate 1 means more walking but you see everything in order."
},
{
icon: "TrendingUp",
text: "The Pyramid of the Sun has 248 steep and uneven steps. Take your time climbing - it's challenging! The views from the top are spectacular."
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Site hours: 9 AM to 5 PM, seven days a week. You can re-enter after showing your ticket if you leave for lunch."
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Restaurant recommendation: La Gruta is about 15 minutes walking distance from the site. Unique restaurant in a cave with good Mexican food."
},
{
icon: "ShoppingBag",
text: "Many vendors sell souvenirs on site. Avoid eye contact if not interested as they can be persistent. Most items are mass-produced, not authentic."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Security note: Buses videotape passengers' faces before departure (both ways) as a security measure. This is normal practice in Mexico."
},
{
icon: "BookOpen",
text: "UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987. At its peak (450 AD), Teotihuacan had 125,000-200,000 inhabitants, making it one of the largest cities in the ancient world."
}
]}
/>
**Teotihuacan was an absolute highlight of our Mexico trip. The scale of the pyramids is breathtaking, and climbing to the top of the Pyramid of the Sun (third largest in the world!) was incredible. The mystery of who built this magnificent city adds to its allure. It's easily accessible from Mexico City and absolutely worth a day trip. Start early to beat the heat and crowds!**
### Picton to Wellington: Interislander Ferry Across Cook Strait
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/picton-wellington
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Date: 2018-02-07
**We boarded the Interislander ferry, the longest-running ferry service in New Zealand, which operates between the North Island city of Wellington and the South Island town of Picton. After returning our rental car in Picton, we boarded the ferry as walk-on passengers for one of the world's most scenic ferry crossings.**
### The Interislander Ferry Experience
The **Interislander** has been operating since 1962, making it New Zealand's longest-running ferry service. The modern ferries are equipped with comfortable lounges, cafes, cinemas, and outdoor viewing decks - perfect for enjoying the spectacular scenery.
After dropping off our rental car at the Picton terminal (car rental companies have drop-off locations right at the ferry port), we boarded as foot passengers. This is a popular option for travelers who plan to rent a different car on the North Island, avoiding the expensive fee for transporting a vehicle on the ferry.
### Wildlife Encounters and Scenic Beauty
Within minutes, our boat bobbed in the waves as we were greeted by **dolphins** which came out of nowhere! Seeing these playful creatures swimming alongside the ferry was an unexpected delight. The Cook Strait is known for dolphin sightings, and we were lucky enough to spot them early in our crossing.
We relaxed and enjoyed the jaw-dropping views along one of the world's most scenic waterways. The **3.5-hour journey** took us through:
- **Queen Charlotte Sound** - The ferry departs through this sheltered sound in the Marlborough Sounds
- **Marlborough Sounds** - A labyrinth of sea-drowned valleys with secluded bays and forested hills
- **Cook Strait** - The strait separating New Zealand's North and South Islands, named after Captain James Cook
- **Wellington Harbour** - Approaching the capital through its stunning natural harbor
### Arriving in Wellington
Upon reaching the harbor, we disembarked at this **North Island hub** and immediately rented another car. Wellington, New Zealand's capital, sits at the southwestern tip of the North Island. The city is known for its strong winds (earning the nickname "Windy Wellington"), vibrant arts scene, and stunning harbor setting.
We checked in at **[The Setup on Dixon](https://www.booking.com/hotel/nz/the-setup-accommodation.en-gb.html?aid=1296479)** hostel, centrally located in Wellington's downtown area. After settling in, we headed for a historic trip on the **Wellington Cable Car** - one of the city's most iconic attractions.
### Wellington Cable Car and Botanic Garden
The **Wellington Cable Car** is a historic funicular railway that's been running since 1902, climbing from Lambton Quay in the city center up to **Kelburn** and the Botanic Garden. The ride takes just 5 minutes but offers dramatic views as you ascend.
At the top, the **Wellington Botanic Garden** offered us spectacular views of the cityscape, Wellington Harbour, and the rolling hills surrounding the capital. The gardens cover 25 hectares and feature native New Zealand plants, formal gardens, and forest areas.
### Our Wellington Arrival
The ferry crossing from Picton to Wellington is consistently rated as one of the world's most beautiful ferry journeys, and we completely understand why. The combination of the Marlborough Sounds' intricate waterways, the wildlife sightings, and the dramatic approach to Wellington Harbour made it a highlight of our New Zealand trip.
*Have you taken the Interislander or Bluebridge ferry between Picton and Wellington? Did you see dolphins or other wildlife during your crossing? Did you travel as a walk-on passenger or transport a vehicle? What did you think of Wellington - worth spending time in or just a transit stop? Share your Cook Strait crossing experiences in the comments below!*
Two ferry companies: Interislander (since 1962) and Bluebridge. Interislander is larger with more facilities. Both are reliable. Book in advance, especially in summer."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Journey time: 3.5 hours crossing Cook Strait. Multiple departures daily. Check in 30-45 minutes before departure for foot passengers, longer for vehicles."
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Walk-on passenger tickets are much cheaper than transporting a vehicle. Consider dropping your South Island rental in Picton and picking up a new North Island rental in Wellington."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Head to the outdoor viewing decks for the best views and photos, especially when passing through the Marlborough Sounds. Bring layers - it can be windy!"
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Cook Strait can be rough! It's one of the world's most treacherous stretches of water. If prone to seasickness, take medication before boarding. The crossing through the Sounds is calmer."
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Wildlife spotting: Dolphins are commonly seen, especially in summer. Occasionally seals and seabirds too. Watch from the outdoor decks for the best chance of sightings."
},
{
icon: "Car",
text: "Rental car drop-off in Picton: Companies have locations right at the ferry terminal. Drop off, walk to the ferry - super convenient for foot passengers."
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Onboard facilities: Cafes, restaurants, cinemas, lounges, and outdoor viewing areas. Food is available but can be pricey - consider bringing snacks."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "The ferry is considered one of the world's most scenic ferry crossings. Route goes through Queen Charlotte Sound, Marlborough Sounds, and across Cook Strait."
},
{
icon: "Tram",
text: "Wellington Cable Car: A must-do! Historic funicular from Lambton Quay to Kelburn/Botanic Garden. 5-minute ride with great views. Tickets available at stations."
},
{
icon: "Wind",
text: "Wellington is nicknamed 'Windy Wellington' for good reason! The city sits in a wind tunnel between Cook Strait and the hills. Bring a jacket even in summer."
}
]}
/>
**The Interislander ferry crossing from Picton to Wellington was one of the highlights of our New Zealand adventure. The journey through the Marlborough Sounds and across Cook Strait is rightfully considered one of the world's most scenic ferry rides. Being greeted by dolphins, enjoying the stunning coastal scenery, and arriving into Wellington Harbour made for an unforgettable travel experience. Don't just see this as a transfer - it's an attraction in itself!**
### Kaikoura to Picton: Driving the Newly Reopened Coastal Highway
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/kaikoura-picton
Location: Picton, New Zealand
Date: 2018-02-06
**Following the 2016 earthquake, we were lucky that State Highway 1 (SH1) was just reopened from Christchurch to Picton. The drive only took 3 hours (instead of 6 via the inland detour), though we still encountered some remaining unsealed surfaces, reduced speeds and stop/go controls in some areas.**
### The Drive from Kaikoura to Picton
The **November 2016 Kaikoura earthquake** (magnitude 7.8) had severely damaged State Highway 1, the main coastal route connecting the South Island. The earthquake lifted parts of the seabed by up to 2 meters and caused massive landslides that buried the highway. When we traveled in early 2018, the road had just been reopened after extensive repairs costing over $1 billion NZD.
The drive showcased the power of the earthquake - we could still see evidence of the damage with fresh rockfall protection barriers, newly rebuilt sections of road, and areas where the coastline had dramatically changed. Despite the construction zones, the **3-hour journey** offered stunning coastal scenery along the Marlborough coast.
### Arriving in Picton
By lunchtime, we arrived in the **picturesque seaside town of Picton**, which is the South Island base for the ferry service that links the two main islands of New Zealand. The town sits at the head of **Queen Charlotte Sound**, one of the beautiful **Marlborough Sounds**.
We checked in at [Sequoia Lodge Backpackers](https://www.booking.com/hotel/nz/sequoia-lodge-backpackers.en-gb.html?aid=1296479;) and set off to explore the neighborhood and the sheltered harbor. We strolled along the seafront dotted with occasional bars, restaurants and various galleries.
### A Quiet Evening in Picton
The town was very quiet - typical for a small port town outside of ferry departure times. **Waikawa**, which lies just northeast, might have been a livelier stop, but we couldn't complain. We were perfectly positioned close to our rental car drop-off point and the departure gate for the ferry to Wellington the next morning.
We had free time to work on the blog and cook some delicious hot dogs - making the most of our hostel kitchen facilities before the ferry crossing to the North Island tomorrow.
### Preparing for the Ferry Crossing
Picton's main purpose for most travelers is as the ferry terminal connecting the South Island to Wellington on the North Island. The **Interislander** and **Bluebridge** ferries both operate from here, crossing the Cook Strait several times daily. We had our ferry booked for early the next morning, so we enjoyed the relaxed evening in this small harbor town.
*Have you driven State Highway 1 between Kaikoura and Picton? Did you see evidence of the 2016 earthquake repairs? Have you taken the Interislander or Bluebridge ferry across Cook Strait? What did you think of Picton as a stopover town - worth exploring or just a transit point? Share your New Zealand road trip experiences in the comments below!*
**The drive from Kaikoura to Picton along the newly reopened State Highway 1 was a reminder of nature's power and human resilience. While Picton itself is quiet and mainly serves as a transit point, it's perfectly positioned for catching the morning ferry to Wellington. The real highlight was experiencing the coastal drive on a route that had been closed for over a year after the devastating 2016 earthquake.**
### Kaikoura Whale Watching: Encountering Giant Sperm Whales
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/kaikoura-whale-watching
Location: Kaikoura, New Zealand
Date: 2018-02-05
**Today we booked an adventure with Kaikoura Whale Watch, a Māori-owned cruise company offering up-close encounters with whales. Although almost all the world's whale species have been sighted in Kaikoura, the giant sperm whale is commonly seen year-round. These giants of the sea are the stars of the show, though fur seals, dolphins and albatross can also be spotted just off the coast.**
### Why Kaikoura is a Whale Watching Paradise
**Kaikoura** is one of the best places in the world to see sperm whales because of the unique underwater geography. The **Kaikoura Canyon** - a deep underwater trench - comes remarkably close to shore, bringing nutrient-rich deep water right to the coast. This attracts squid, octopus, and other deep-sea creatures, which in turn attract the sperm whales that feed on them.
The **18-meter long giants** can dive up to **3 kilometers deep** for up to 2 hours to hunt colossal squid, octopuses, and various fish. Kaikoura is one of the few places where you can see these magnificent creatures so close to land.
### Preparing for the Whale Watching Tour
We were super excited but also very nervous about whether we would actually see the world's largest toothed whale. The weather was sunny with only a few white clouds dotting the blue sky - perfect conditions for spotting these massive creatures. We checked in around midday at the **Kaikoura Whale Watch** office near the railway station.
With calm and smooth seas, the captain gave the tour the green light. After a short introduction and safety video, a shuttle bus dropped us at **South Bay Marina** where one of their four modern catamarans was waiting.
### The High-Tech Whale Watching Vessel
We embarked the blue high-tech boat specifically designed and built for whale watching. The vessel featured:
- **Quiet engines** that minimize underwater noise to avoid disturbing the whales
- **Comfortable leather seats** with excellent views
- **Huge windows** for indoor viewing
- **Large TV screens** showing marine wildlife documentaries
- **Non-polluting toilets**
- **Outdoor viewing decks** for the best photo opportunities
The boat's design reflects the respect for these magnificent creatures and their environment.
### The Whale Watching Experience
We headed out of South Bay toward the open ocean for an almost **3-hour tour**. The crew took us from one whale watching hotspot to another. Between stops, we learned a great deal about giant sperm whales while watching fascinating marine wildlife documentaries.
After 20 minutes, just offshore from Kaikoura, the captain and whale spotter stopped where a giant sperm whale was last seen. They plugged a **hydrophone** (sound wave detector) into the water to listen for whale clicks - sperm whales use echolocation to hunt, making distinctive clicking sounds that can be detected underwater.
### Our First Whale Encounter
Within minutes, we saw our first male whale in the distance! We didn't verify the sex, but whales at Kaikoura are almost exclusively males. The water is too cold for females, which prefer tropical breeding grounds. The males come to Kaikoura's nutrient-rich waters to feed.
Sperm whales surface every **40 minutes** for about **10 to 15 minutes** to rest and re-oxygenate before diving again. When they surface, they spray water high into the air through their blowholes - that's how the well-trained crew spots them on the horizon.
### Four Magnificent Encounters
Each time we spotted a whale, the captain would speed off to get closer before they disappeared back into the deep Kaikoura Canyon for another feeding session. The timing was crucial since whales only surface for a short period.
We were **incredibly lucky** to have **four encounters** with these majestic mammals! Two sightings were of the same individual that we recognized from its dorsal fin. Each encounter was a truly moving experience.
Being only a few meters from Herman Melville's real-life Moby Dick was an amazing sight and photographic opportunity of a lifetime. We admired the majestic animals resting and blowing at the surface before they slowly lifted their gorgeous tails into the air and disappeared back into the dark water. That iconic tail fluke display - the whale's signature farewell - never gets old!
### Our Kaikoura Whale Watch Recommendation
**Whale Watch Kaikoura** was extremely professional in tracking and giving us the best chance to observe these fascinating creatures in their natural environment. The crew's knowledge, the boat's design, and their commitment to responsible wildlife viewing made this an unforgettable experience. We highly recommend booking a tour with them!
*Have you been whale watching in Kaikoura? How many sperm whales did you see? Did you get the iconic tail fluke shot? Did you also spot dolphins, seals, or albatross? Have you experienced whale watching elsewhere - how does Kaikoura compare? Do you get seasick easily - how were the sea conditions for you? Share your Kaikoura whale watching experiences in the comments below!*
Kaikoura Whale Watch is the main operator - a Māori-owned company with excellent reputation. They use modern, purpose-built catamarans. Book in advance, especially in summer (Dec-Feb)."
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Tour cost: Approximately $150 NZD per adult for a 2.5-3 hour tour. Children and family rates available. Price includes shuttle bus to South Bay Marina."
},
{
icon: "Whale",
text: "80% guarantee: If no whales are seen, you get an 80% refund. However, whale sightings are very common - we saw four whales on our tour!"
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Tours run multiple times daily, weather permitting. Book morning tours for calmer seas. Check in 30 minutes before departure at the office near the railway station."
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Giant sperm whales are seen year-round. Males come to Kaikoura's cold, food-rich waters. They surface for 10-15 minutes every 40 minutes between deep dives up to 3 km!"
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Bring a camera with good zoom! Whales can be 50-100m away. The iconic tail fluke shot happens just before they dive. Be ready - it happens quickly!"
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Seasickness warning: Even with calm conditions, some people get seasick. Take medication 30-60 minutes BEFORE boarding. The boat rocks at stops when searching for whales."
},
{
icon: "Sun",
text: "Weather dependent: Tours cancel if seas are too rough. Kaikoura can be windy. Bring warm layers, sunscreen, sunglasses. Conditions change quickly on the water."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Why Kaikoura? The Kaikoura Canyon - a deep underwater trench - comes close to shore, bringing deep-water creatures (squid, octopus) that sperm whales hunt. Unique geography!"
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Other wildlife: Fur seals, dusky dolphins, Hector's dolphins, and albatross are commonly spotted. The tour focuses on sperm whales but you might see bonus marine life!"
},
{
icon: "Headphones",
text: "The crew uses hydrophones (underwater microphones) to listen for whale clicks. Sperm whales use echolocation to hunt, making distinctive clicking sounds that help locate them."
},
{
icon: "BookOpen",
text: "Sperm whales are the world's largest toothed whales (up to 18m long, 57 tons). They're the deepest diving mammals, hunting squid at depths up to 3 km for up to 2 hours!"
}
]}
/>
**The Kaikoura whale watching tour was an absolute bucket list experience. Being just meters away from giant sperm whales in their natural habitat, watching them breathe, rest, and dive with that magnificent tail fluke display - it's something we'll never forget. Kaikoura's unique geography makes it one of the best places in the world to see these incredible creatures. If you're in New Zealand's South Island, don't miss this opportunity!**
### Great Barrier Reef Scenic Flight: Aerial Views of the Reef
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/great-barrier-scenic-flight
Location: Cairns, Australia
Date: 2018-01-24
**After seeing the Great Barrier Reef underwater, we took a little more altitude to see it from the sky. Cairns offers numerous flying experiences over one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. We chose GSL Aviation after researching the best companies on TripAdvisor. A dream come true!**
### Weather Concerns Turn to Perfect Conditions
With the weather forecast predicting heavy rain and thunderstorms around our flying time, we were concerned our ride would be cancelled. Nervous, we drove to the airport looking up at the sky.
As we arrived, we were greeted with only white fluffy clouds dotting the blue sky. Great! We would fly over the reef in the best conditions possible - crystal clear visibility with just enough clouds to add drama to the photos.
### Boarding the Cessna 208B
After a short briefing video and pre-flight safety demonstration, we boarded with another 8 people on the **Cessna 208B**. The fixed-wing aircraft had only one seat on each side of the aisle. **With window seats for everyone**, we would all have a perfect view over the Great Barrier Reef.
We sat in the **front row** which gave us a direct view to the front of the plane and the pilot. Can it get any better?
### 40 Minutes Over the Great Barrier Reef
After sitting on the tarmac waiting for clearance, we took off and enjoyed stunning views over our shoulders of Cairns and the coastal mountains.
The **40-minute flight** took us over:
- **Green Island** - a coral cay with resort and day-trip facilities
- **Upolu Cay** - a small sandbank popular with birds
- **Michaelmas Cay** - a protected seabird rookery
- **The surrounding outer reef** - brilliant blues and turquoises
We could see the reef boats moored at their sites below - including the one we'd been on days earlier! The aerial perspective was completely different. From above, we could see the **intricate patterns of the reef**, the deeper channels between coral formations, and how the color shifted from deep ocean blue to brilliant turquoise over the shallows.
### Aerial Perspective of a Natural Wonder
The experience was unbelievable. From the water, you see the reef's detail and marine life. From the air, you see the reef's massive scale and structure. The Great Barrier Reef stretches **2,300 kilometers** along the Queensland coast, and seeing even a small section from above helps grasp its enormity.
The scenic flight will undoubtedly remain **the main highlight in Cairns**. If you can only do one reef experience, it's a tough choice. But if you can do both snorkeling AND a scenic flight, you get the complete picture of this natural wonder.
*Have you done a scenic flight over the Great Barrier Reef? Which company did you use? Did you fly from Cairns or Port Douglas? Did you see any specific sites (Green Island, Michaelmas Cay, Heart Reef)? How did the aerial view compare to snorkeling/diving? Was the flight smooth or bumpy? Share your Great Barrier Reef flight experiences in the comments below!*
GSL Aviation is highly rated on TripAdvisor. Other reputable operators: Reef Helicopters, GBR Helicopters. Research reviews before booking. Fixed-wing planes (Cessna) are cheaper than helicopters."
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Expect to pay $150-250 AUD for 40-60 minute flights. Helicopters cost more ($300-500+) but offer doors-off options. Book in advance for best prices and preferred times."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Morning flights (8-10 AM) often have better visibility and calmer air. Afternoon can be bumpy and hazy. Flight durations: 30-60 minutes typical. Longer flights see more reef locations."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Window seats for everyone! Cessna 208B has one seat each side - everyone gets window. Bring camera with polarizing filter to reduce water glare. Front row offers best unobstructed views."
},
{
icon: "Sun",
text: "Clear skies = best visibility but harsh light. Few fluffy clouds add drama to photos. Avoid overcast days (flat lighting). Check weather forecast before booking."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Popular sites: Green Island (resort island), Michaelmas Cay (seabirds), Upolu Cay, Arlington Reef, Moore Reef. Heart Reef (Whitsundays) is further north - different tour."
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Motion sickness: Small planes can be bumpy, especially in afternoon heat. Take motion sickness medication if prone. Sit near front for smoother ride. Morning flights are calmer."
},
{
icon: "Weight",
text: "Weight restrictions apply! Be honest about weight when booking. Passengers are weighed before flight for balance calculations. Larger passengers may pay extra or need two seats."
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Aerial view shows reef patterns, channels, and scale impossible to see from water. Turquoise shallows vs deep blue ocean. You can spot boats, islands, and massive coral formations from above."
},
{
icon: "Ship",
text: "Combine with snorkeling! Do reef boat trip AND scenic flight for complete experience. See reef from below and above. Some operators offer combo packages."
},
{
icon: "Calendar",
text: "Flights are weather dependent. Tours cancel if conditions unsafe. Be flexible with dates. We lucked out with perfect weather after forecast predicted thunderstorms!"
}
]}
/>
**The scenic flight over the Great Barrier Reef was absolutely worth it! Sitting in the front row of the Cessna, we had unobstructed views of the reef's turquoise waters, intricate coral patterns, and massive scale. The aerial perspective complemented our snorkeling experience perfectly - seeing the reef from below shows its detail and life, from above shows its structure and immensity. If you're visiting tropical North Queensland, don't miss this opportunity to see one of the Seven Natural Wonders from the sky!**
### Kuranda Scenic Railway: Historic Train Through the Rainforest
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/kuranda-scenic-railway
Location: Kuranda, Australia
Date: 2018-01-23
**We planned a day trip to Kuranda, better known as the Village in the Rainforest. The best way to get there was to board the Kuranda Scenic Railway. We drove along the dramatic Captain Cook Highway to the Skyrail station.**
### The Kuranda Railway and Skyrail Combo
We left our campervan in the Skyrail car park. A shuttle bus collected us and drove us to **Freshwater Station** where we'd board the train. We would later return via the Skyrail cable car to pick up our vehicle - the classic "train up, cable car down" experience.
### Award-Winning Rail Journey Through World Heritage Rainforest
The award-winning rail journey meandered its way from Freshwater Station through the **World Heritage-listed rainforest** of **Barron Gorge National Park** to the mountain village of Kuranda.
We cruised through breathtaking scenery framed by rugged mountains, towering waterfalls, deep ravines, **15 hand-carved tunnels** and **37 bridges**. The railway was built in the 1880s and is an engineering marvel - workers hand-carved tunnels through solid rock and built bridges across seemingly impossible terrain.
At **Barron Falls Station**, we disembarked the historic train to explore the rainforest mid-station and view the spectacular Barron Falls (when flowing - depends on season).
### Kuranda Village: The Village in the Rainforest
An hour and a half and 37 kilometers later, we arrived at the small yet vibrant Kuranda community. The friendly atmosphere of the village with its craft boutiques, heritage markets, and wildlife refuges made it a great place to spend a few hours.
We skipped the animal sanctuaries (though the butterfly sanctuary and koala gardens are popular) and strolled along the main streets, browsing local crafts. When we had enough shopping and were full of German sausages (Australian food can be expensive!), we headed to the cable car.
### Skyrail Return: Gliding Over the Canopy
We hopped into the **Skyrail cable car** and glided just meters over the canopy of Australia's World Heritage-listed tropical rainforest as we made our way back to the car park. The bird's-eye perspective was completely different from the train journey - we could see the layered structure of the rainforest from above.
After the short drive back to Port Douglas, we settled in the charming town for another night in our campervan.
*Have you done the Kuranda Railway? Did you do train-up-Skyrail-down or vice versa? Did you stop at Barron Falls Station? What did you think of Kuranda village - worth the time or too touristy? Did you visit any of the wildlife sanctuaries? Share your Kuranda experiences below!*
Book the combo: Kuranda Railway one-way + Skyrail cable car return (or vice versa) is the classic experience. Train up, Skyrail down is most popular. Book online in advance for best prices."
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Expect to pay $100-130 AUD for railway + Skyrail combo. Worth it! Individual tickets available but combo saves money. Various packages include Kuranda attractions."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Allow full day: 8:30 AM train from Freshwater, arrive Kuranda 10:30 AM. Explore village 2-3 hours. Skyrail return. Shuttle buses coordinate with train/Skyrail schedules."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Start point: Skyrail Smithfield Terminal (park here). Shuttle bus to Freshwater Station for train. Return via Skyrail to your car. Perfect logistics!"
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Best seats on train: Window seats on the left going up for best waterfall views. At Barron Falls Station, everyone disembarks for 20-minute photo stop (when falls are flowing)."
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Historic railway: Built 1886-1891 by hand! 15 tunnels carved through solid rock, 37 bridges. Engineering marvel of its time, still using original route."
},
{
icon: "ShoppingBag",
text: "Kuranda village: Heritage markets (crafts, food), boutique shops, butterfly sanctuary, koala gardens, bird world. Can be touristy. 2-3 hours sufficient to explore."
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Food in Kuranda: Cafes and restaurants in village. Prices tourist-inflated. We ate German sausages (good and filling!). Alternatively bring snacks."
},
{
icon: "Cable",
text: "Skyrail: 7.5 km cableway over rainforest canopy. Two stops (Barron Falls and Red Peak) to explore boardwalks. Glass-bottom gondolas available for extra fee."
},
{
icon: "Calendar",
text: "Barron Falls: Best after wet season (Jan-Apr) when falls are dramatic. Dry season (May-Dec) they can be a trickle. Still scenic even without water!"
}
]}
/>
**The Kuranda Railway and Skyrail combo was a fantastic way to experience the rainforest from multiple perspectives. The historic train journey through hand-carved tunnels and over dramatic bridges showcased engineering brilliance, while the Skyrail offered a bird's-eye view gliding over the canopy. Though Kuranda village itself is touristy, the journey there and back is the real attraction. Highly recommended!**
### Great Barrier Reef: Snorkeling the World's Largest Coral Reef System
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/great-barrier-reef
Location: Port Douglas, Australia
Date: 2018-01-22
**We woke up early for a day trip to the Great Barrier Reef, the largest coral reef and the largest living structure on Earth. This Australian natural icon was high on our list, and it cost us a small fortune to reach the Agincourt Ribbon Reef sites at the very outer edge of the Great Barrier Reef.**
### Boarding the SilverSonic to Agincourt Reef
After check-in at the Marina in Port Douglas, we boarded the ultramodern **SilverSonic**, a 29-meter high-speed catamaran. We headed through the channel toward the reef. The ride to **Agincourt Reef** was smooth, stable and took only an hour and a half - the fastest time needed to experience the real outer edge of the Great Barrier Reef without going on a live-aboard boat.
**Agincourt Reef** is part of the ribbon reefs that form the outermost edge of the Great Barrier Reef. The water here is clearer, the coral healthier, and the marine life more abundant than at closer reefs that see more visitors.
### First Snorkel Site: Exploring the Outer Reef
Today we signed up for snorkeling, though scuba diving was also available. We received a thorough site and safety briefing from the snorkeling advisor and were ready to explore the Great Barrier Reef up close.
Equipped with full-body lycra suits (to protect us from stingrays and sun), flippers, face mask and snorkel, we jumped into the warm water. We drifted with the current as we explored the rich underwater life.
We were hoping to see reef sharks - we'd spotted one from the boat - but the creatures were easily scared and hid away as we swam. After more than an hour exploring the legendary Great Barrier Reef, we returned to the boat, exhausted but overjoyed. **The coral was so close to the surface, and the variety was just amazing!**
### Second Site: "Occasional Turtle Site"
Half an hour later, we reached the next site, aptly named the **"occasional turtle site"**. We didn't see any turtles (they're occasional for a reason!), but we appreciated the huge coral formations inhabited by a myriad of fish of all sizes, forms and colors.
During the second stop, a buffet lunch was served on board. There was plenty of hot and cold food to choose from - fuel for more snorkeling!
### Third Site: The Best Reef Experience
Around 2:00 PM, with full stomachs, we kitted out our snorkeling gear for the last time and ventured into the water. The **third and last site was the best** - this section of the reef was the calmest and the most heavily populated with corals and sea creatures.
The visibility was incredible, and we could see the complex three-dimensional structure of the reef stretching in every direction. Parrotfish munched on coral, anemone fish (clownfish) hid in their host anemones, and schools of tropical fish swirled around us.
### Our Great Barrier Reef Experience
We ended our reef experience with another high-speed catamaran ride back to Port Douglas, where we rewarded ourselves with a good dinner and a good night's sleep.
We had just experienced the **Great Barrier Reef** - a true wonder of the world that stretches **2,300 kilometers** along the Queensland coast. This UNESCO World Heritage Site contains:
- 2,900 individual reefs
- 900 islands
- 1,500 species of fish
- 400 types of coral
- 4,000 types of mollusk
Sadly, the reef faces significant threats from climate change, ocean acidification, and coral bleaching. Experiencing it now feels even more precious.
*Have you snorkeled or dived the Great Barrier Reef? Which reef did you visit - inner, outer, or pontoon? Did you see turtles, sharks, or manta rays? Did you go from Cairns or Port Douglas? How did the reef compare to your expectations - is it as spectacular as people say? Share your Great Barrier Reef experiences in the comments below!*
Choose outer reef tours! Agincourt Reef (outer edge) has clearer water and healthier coral than inner reefs. Worth the extra cost and boat time. SilverSonic from Port Douglas is excellent."
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Expect to pay $200-250 AUD for full-day outer reef tours including equipment, lunch, and 3 snorkel/dive sites. Budget reef trips are cheaper but visit less impressive inner reefs."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Port Douglas vs Cairns: Port Douglas is closer to Agincourt Reef (1.5 hours vs 2.5+ hours from Cairns). Port Douglas tours are often better but pricier."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Full-day tours: Usually 8 AM - 4:30 PM. Includes 3 snorkel sites (1+ hour each). Allow 30 minutes for check-in at marina. Book in advance, especially in peak season (June-October)."
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Seasickness warning: Even on calm days, some people get seasick on the 1.5-hour boat ride. Take medication 30-60 minutes BEFORE boarding. Boats provide sick bags."
},
{
icon: "Sun",
text: "Lycra stinger suits provided - wear them! They protect from sun, jellyfish, and stingrays. The tropical sun reflects off water and you'll burn quickly despite being wet."
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Bring: Waterproof camera, reef-safe sunscreen (regular sunscreen damages coral), water bottle, towel, seasickness medication. Snorkel gear, lunch, and suits included."
},
{
icon: "Fish",
text: "Marine life: Common sightings include sea turtles (at some sites), reef sharks (timid), clownfish, parrotfish, giant clams, and hundreds of tropical fish species. Manta rays and whales (in season) are rare but possible."
},
{
icon: "Calendar",
text: "Best time: June-October (dry season, best visibility, no box jellyfish). November-May is wet season with possible jellyfish and rougher seas, but still doable (we went in January)."
},
{
icon: "AlertTriangle",
text: "Scuba diving requires certification. Intro dives available for beginners. Snorkeling is excellent and requires no certification - you see 90% of what divers see!"
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "The Great Barrier Reef is 2,300 km long - the largest living structure on Earth, visible from space! UNESCO World Heritage Site with 2,900 reefs, 900 islands, and 1,500 fish species."
},
{
icon: "Leaf",
text: "Conservation: The reef faces serious threats from climate change and coral bleaching. Choose eco-certified operators. Don't touch coral or marine life. Use reef-safe sunscreen only."
}
]}
/>
**Snorkeling the Great Barrier Reef at Agincourt Reef was absolutely worth the cost and early wake-up. The outer reef's crystal-clear water, massive coral formations, and abundant marine life exceeded our expectations. Three different snorkel sites gave us diverse reef experiences. While the reef faces environmental challenges, it remains one of Earth's most spectacular natural wonders. If you're in tropical North Queensland, the Great Barrier Reef is an absolute must-do experience!**
### Daintree Rainforest: Exploring the World's Oldest Tropical Rainforest
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/daintree-rainforest-tours
Location: Cape Tribulation, Australia
Date: 2018-01-21
**We woke up in Cape Tribulation Beach where the rainforest meets the reef. The weather was cloudy but the rain finally stopped after pouring down the whole night. Before starting our Daintree Rainforest tour, we wandered on the deserted beach along the rainforest, hoping to snorkel the crystal clear waters.**
### Box Jellyfish Warning: No Swimming
Unfortunately, **box jellyfish** - the most venomous animal in the world - are found in coastal waters during the Australian summer (November-May). Their sting produces excruciating pain accompanied by an intense burning sensation which can lead to death if not treated immediately.
Not keen on taking any risk, we skipped the morning swim and headed back to the campervan to prepare for our **Daintree Rainforest tour**. The National Park was an adventure playground for the nature lovers we were.
### Driving Through Flooded Roads
After breakfast, we packed, cleaned up and set off for the award-winning **Daintree Discovery Centre**, one of the best starting points for any Daintree Rainforest tours. The rain started again. Heavily.
The roads became increasingly flooded as we drove through the rainforest. We had to stop and wait, concerned our campervan wouldn't be able to cross the streams. At some point, we even had to **clear the route from trees pushed by the strong current**! This was real adventure - the Daintree doesn't hold back during wet season.
### Daintree Discovery Centre: The World's Oldest Rainforest
We eventually made our way to the Discovery Centre. The center provided an interactive experience within the **oldest lowland tropical rainforest in the world** - **180 million years old**! To put this into context, the Amazon is only 7 million years old!
The Daintree existed when dinosaurs roamed the earth and has survived ice ages, continental drift, and climate changes that wiped out rainforests elsewhere. Many plants here are living fossils, unchanged for millions of years.
### Canopy Walkways and Endemic Wildlife
Through different aerial walkways, lookout towers and activities, we learned about everything from primitive flowering plants to endemic wildlife, including the endangered **cassowary**. The cassowary is a large flightless bird critical to the rainforest ecosystem - it disperses seeds from large rainforest fruits that other animals can't eat.
### Jindalba Boardwalk: Walking Through Ancient Forest
We continued our Daintree expedition with a **3-kilometer walk** on the Jindalba Boardwalk near the Discovery Centre entrance. The tracks were well-marked but heavy rains turned them into water streams. Our last pair of dry shoes got wet in no time. Damn! How many pairs of shoes do we need on this trip?
We started on a gravel path beneath a towering canopy of palms and ferns, which transitioned into a boardwalk with numerous viewing platforms. The sounds of the rainforest were incredible - bird calls, rustling leaves, and the constant drip of water from the canopy above.
### Captain Cook Highway to Port Douglas
We ended the day in **Port Douglas** by driving south along the magnificent scenic coastal route - the **Captain Cook Highway**. This drive between Cape Tribulation and Port Douglas is one of the most beautiful coastal drives in Australia, with the rainforest on one side and the Coral Sea on the other.
We loved the small resort town of Port Douglas, and it made a perfect place to enjoy a relaxing evening after our adventurous Daintree Rainforest tour.
### Where the Rainforest Meets the Reef
The Daintree region is unique as the only place on Earth where two UNESCO World Heritage Sites meet: the **Daintree Rainforest** and the **Great Barrier Reef**. This extraordinary convergence of ecosystems creates unparalleled biodiversity.
*Have you visited the Daintree Rainforest? Did you stay in Cape Tribulation or Port Douglas? Did you see any cassowaries or other wildlife? Have you done the canopy walkways at the Discovery Centre? Did you brave swimming despite the box jellyfish warnings? How did you find driving in the wet season with flooded roads? Share your Daintree experiences in the comments below!*
Best time to visit: Dry season (May-October) for easier driving conditions. Wet season (November-April) is dramatic but roads flood. We visited in January (wet season) and experienced heavy flooding!"
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Daintree Discovery Centre: Approximately $35 AUD per adult. Worth it for the aerial walkways, lookout towers, and educational exhibits about this ancient rainforest."
},
{
icon: "AlertTriangle",
text: "Box jellyfish warning: Do NOT swim in the ocean November-May. Box jellyfish are deadly and common during summer. Stinger suits don't guarantee full protection. Freshwater swimming holes are safe."
},
{
icon: "Car",
text: "4WD not required in dry season, but highly recommended in wet season. Roads can flood dramatically. We had to clear fallen trees! Check road conditions before traveling."
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "The Daintree is 180 million years old - the world's oldest tropical rainforest! For comparison, the Amazon is only 7 million years old. Many plants here are living fossils unchanged for millions of years."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Aerial canopy walkways at Discovery Centre provide incredible photo opportunities. The lookout towers give panoramic views over the rainforest canopy."
},
{
icon: "Footprints",
text: "Jindalba Boardwalk: 3 km walk with viewing platforms. In wet season, trails become streams! Wear waterproof shoes or accept they'll get soaked. Bring extra shoes."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Cape Tribulation is where the rainforest meets the reef - the only place two UNESCO World Heritage Sites converge. Stay overnight to explore fully."
},
{
icon: "Bird",
text: "Cassowary spotting: The endangered cassowary (large flightless bird) lives here. Early morning/late afternoon are best. Never feed or approach them - they can be dangerous!"
},
{
icon: "Ship",
text: "Daintree River crossing: Take the cable ferry (vehicles cross on a small car ferry). Runs continuously during daylight. Small fee. No bridge - it's part of the adventure!"
},
{
icon: "Hotel",
text: "Accommodation options: Cape Tribulation (campsites, lodges, eco-resorts), Port Douglas (resort town), or Cow Bay area. We campervanned - many campgrounds available."
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Bring rain gear even in dry season. The rainforest is humid and wet. Waterproof bags for cameras/electronics essential. Leeches common after rain - check your legs!"
}
]}
/>
**The Daintree Rainforest exceeded our expectations despite the flooding! Exploring the world's oldest tropical rainforest (180 million years!) through aerial walkways and flooded boardwalks was an incredible adventure. The dramatic wet season added excitement - clearing trees from flooded roads is not your typical rainforest tour! The Daintree's ancient beauty and unique position where rainforest meets reef make it an unmissable experience when visiting tropical North Queensland.**
### Mossman Gorge Walk: Rainforest Trails and Cassowaries
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/mossman-gorge-walk
Location: Mossman Gorge, Australia
Date: 2018-01-20
**After our first night in the campervan at Tropic Breeze Caravan Park, we kicked off the day with a visit to the Mossman Gorge Centre, located at the southern end of Daintree National Park. A Mossman Gorge walk is a must if you're in Cairns.**
### Cassowary Encounter on the Drive
The drive from Port Douglas was quick, easy and well worth it. En route, we encountered a **male cassowary** with its **two baby chicks** crossing the road! Only the male takes care of the chicks until they turn 16 months old.
These giant flightless birds are hard to observe with only **4,000 remaining in Australia**, making them critically endangered. We were incredibly lucky to see 3 of them, and we hoped to see more during our Mossman Gorge walk.
### Mossman Gorge Centre
As we arrived at the Indigenous ecotourism centre, we parked and started with a visit to the **Indigenous Art gallery**. The gallery promoted arts and crafts from the local **Kuku Yalanji artists**, the traditional owners of this land.
Shuttle buses departed from the visitor's centre every 15 minutes, but we elected to **walk the 2 kilometers** down to the Mossman Gorge walk and saved $9.50 each. The walk itself was pleasant through the rainforest edge.
### Walking Through Ancient Rainforest
We passed the Aboriginal community, arrived at the entrance, and followed the signs through the rainforest. We strolled at a leisurely pace for almost **2 hours** admiring the lush vegetation and occasional wildlife, including one **Boyd's forest dragon**.
The creature with its yellow dewlap under its chin was hard to spot as it stayed very still even when we were up close. This rainforest dragon is endemic to the Daintree region - another special sighting!
### Swimming Warnings and Swollen Rivers
The weather was cloudy, hot and humid. Extreme weather in Cairns over the past few days had swollen the rivers. **Swimming was not recommended** as strong undercurrents in swimming holes made them extremely dangerous. Other visitors to the Mossman Gorge walk seemed to ignore the warnings - not a good idea!
### Heading North to Cape Tribulation
After the hike, we jumped back into the campervan and kept venturing north into the Daintree Forest. After crossing the iconic **Daintree cable ferry**, we continued our journey to Cape Tribulation.
It definitely wasn't high season. We found ourselves alone in a deserted campsite lost in the middle of nowhere. No network connection. No neighbors to chat with. Just dozens of **flying foxes** at dusk streaming into the night sky in search of food - a spectacular sight!
*Have you done the Mossman Gorge walk? Did you see any cassowaries or other wildlife? Did you take the shuttle or walk down? Did you brave swimming despite warnings? What did you think of the Daintree region? Share your Mossman Gorge experiences below!*
Cassowary spotting! Drive carefully - cassowaries cross roads, especially mornings/evenings. Males care for chicks. Only 4,000 left in Australia. Never approach or feed them - they're dangerous!"
},
{
icon: "Footprints",
text: "Easy circuit walk suitable for most fitness levels. Boardwalks and paths well-maintained. Can be slippery when wet. Wear closed shoes with grip."
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Swimming warnings: After heavy rain, rivers swell and currents are deadly. Heed warning signs! Even in normal conditions, be cautious. Crocodiles can be present in Far North Queensland waterways."
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Look for Boyd's forest dragons (rainforest lizards with yellow dewlaps), tropical birds, and unique Daintree vegetation. This is ancient rainforest - over 135 million years old!"
},
{
icon: "Ship",
text: "Continue north to Cape Tribulation via Daintree River cable ferry. Small fee for vehicles. Ferry runs continuously during daylight. Gateway to where rainforest meets reef!"
},
{
icon: "Hotel",
text: "Camping at Cape Tribulation: Basic campgrounds available. Expect no phone signal. Flying foxes at dusk are spectacular! Bring supplies - shops limited."
}
]}
/>
**The Mossman Gorge walk was a perfect introduction to the Daintree. Seeing a cassowary family, spotting a Boyd's forest dragon, and walking through ancient rainforest made it unforgettable. Combined with continuing north to Cape Tribulation, it was a spectacular day exploring where the rainforest meets the reef!**
### First Day in Australia: Collecting Our Campervan in Cairns
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/first-day-australia
Location: Cairns, Australia
Date: 2018-01-19
**After a long flight from Bali, we disembarked at Cairns International Airport. After a short Uber ride to the rental company, we collected our pre-booked campervan for a whole week of fun exploring tropical North Queensland.**
### Collecting the Campervan
Our week campervanning around Cairns was going to be one of the highlights of our trip to Australia. The region is incredibly diverse and best experienced with your own vehicle - from rainforests to reef, mountains to beaches.
The **"Let's Go Motorhomes"** employees were very friendly and took plenty of time showing us through the campervan and explaining how everything works. They answered all our questions about our itinerary and gave us helpful tips for camping in the area.
### First Stop: The Grocery Store
We were ready to set off! First stop: the grocery store. We filled up the fridge and bought enough food to last a few days. Campervanning meant cooking our own meals, saving money, and having the freedom to eat wherever we parked.
Bone-weary from the night flight, we took our first nap in the van. What a luxury - a bed on wheels!
### Heading North to Port Douglas
We woke feeling rested and refreshed and headed north to the lovely and charming township of **Port Douglas**. The scenic coastal drive took about an hour along the **Captain Cook Highway**, consistently rated as one of Australia's most beautiful coastal drives.
Port Douglas would be our base for exploring the region - close to the Daintree Rainforest, Great Barrier Reef, and Mossman Gorge.
*Have you campervanned in Australia? Did you explore the Cairns region? Which campervan company did you use? What was your favorite campervan experience? Share your Australia road trip experiences below!*
**Our Australian adventure had begun! Collecting the campervan was exciting - a week of freedom to explore tropical North Queensland awaited. Tomorrow: Mossman Gorge and the ancient Daintree Rainforest.**
### Last Day in Indonesia: Farewell to Bali
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/last-day-indonesia
Location: Denpasar, Indonesia
Date: 2018-01-18
**Last day in Indonesia. After weeks exploring Bali and the Gili Islands, it was time to leave for Australia.**
We spent our final day packing, organizing, and preparing for our flight to Cairns. Indonesia had been incredible - from the temples and rice terraces of Bali to the crystal-clear waters and laid-back vibe of the Gili Islands.
Tomorrow we'd be in Australia, starting a new adventure campervanning around tropical North Queensland. But today, we savored our last Indonesian meals and reflected on the amazing experiences we'd had.
*What was your favorite part of Indonesia? Bali, Gili Islands, or somewhere else? How did you find saying goodbye to a country you loved? Share your Indonesia experiences below!*
**Indonesia had exceeded our expectations. As we prepared to fly to Australia, we already knew we'd be back someday to explore more of this incredible archipelago.**
### Tanah Lot Temple: Bali's Iconic Sea Temple at Sunset
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/tanah-lot-temple
Location: Tanah Lot, Indonesia
Date: 2018-01-17
**We chilled out in Canggu and spent most of our day eating Indonesian food and drinking delicious smoothies and young coconuts. With full bellies, we decided to visit Tanah Lot, one of Indonesia's most popular religious attractions. We jumped on our scooter and set off for the temple, famous for its unique offshore setting and sunset backdrops.**
**Tanah Lot Temple** is a Hindu temple built on a rock formation in the sea. During high tide, the temple appears to float offshore, accessible only by foot during low tide. It's one of Bali's seven sea temples, each within eyesight of the next, forming a chain along the southwestern coast.
The temple dates back to the 16th century and is dedicated to Dewa Baruna (sea god). While non-Hindus cannot enter the temple itself, the coastal setting and photo opportunities make it one of Bali's most visited sites - especially at sunset when the temple is silhouetted against the colorful sky.
*Have you visited Tanah Lot? Did you go for sunset? Were the crowds manageable? Did you explore any other sea temples along Bali's coast? Share your Tanah Lot experiences below!*
**Tanah Lot lived up to its reputation as one of Bali's most iconic temples. The dramatic offshore setting makes it a must-see when exploring Bali's western coast from Canggu.**
### Gili Air to Canggu: Heading to Bali's Surf Town
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/gili-air-canggu
Location: Canggu, Indonesia
Date: 2018-01-16
**After 3 days of snorkeling, diving, swimming and just chilling out in Gili Air, we were leaving for Canggu on Bali's southwest coast.**
Located twenty minutes north of Seminyak, **Canggu** was less touristic than its southern neighbor. The village was home to many expats and surfers drawn to its legendary waves. Indeed, the area was well known for its surfing breaks, and that's why we were headed there.
The fast boat from Gili Air to Bali took about 1.5 hours, delivering us to Padang Bai or Amed, followed by a drive across Bali to reach Canggu on the opposite coast.
*Did you visit both Gili Air and Canggu? Which did you prefer - island paradise or surf town? Did you try surfing in Canggu? Share your Bali experiences below!*
**Canggu awaited - a surfer's paradise with great waves, beach clubs, and a laid-back vibe that's made it one of Bali's most popular destinations for long-term travelers and expats.**
### PADI Open Water Referral: Certification Dives Complete
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/padi-open-water-referral-course
Location: Gili Air, Indonesia
Date: 2018-01-15
**We completed our PADI Open Water certification dives with Blue Marine Dive in Gili Air. With our experienced instructor Musa guiding us, we successfully performed all required skills underwater and officially became certified divers!**
## Choosing Blue Marine Dive
After scouring the internet for the best PADI certified school in Gili Air, we found [**Blue Marine Diver**](http://www.bluemarinedive.com/). This **PADI 5 Star Dive Centre** checked all our boxes:
- Excellent online reviews and reputation
- Located right next to our hotel - incredibly convenient!
- Strong commitment to underwater environmental awareness
- Quality training with experienced instructors
- Competitive pricing
The dive shop's focus on environmental protection and quality instruction made us confident we'd made the right choice.
## Meeting Instructor Musa
Our instructor **Musa** put us at ease immediately. Friendly and extremely knowledgeable, he had **thousands of dives under his belt** and a teaching style that balanced professionalism with patience. For nervous first-time divers like us, having an experienced instructor was crucial - we felt safe and well-supported throughout the experience.
## The Certification Dives
We needed to complete **two open water certification dives** to finish our PADI Open Water Diver course. These dives would take the skills we'd learned in confined water (pool) sessions back in London and apply them in the actual ocean environment.
### Skills Practiced
During our two certification dives, we successfully demonstrated:
- Mask clearing and removal/replacement underwater
- Regulator recovery and clearing
- Controlled emergency swimming ascent
- Buoyancy control and hovering
- Underwater navigation with compass
- Safety stops and proper ascent procedures
- Equipment assembly and buddy checks
## Smooth Sailing
**Both dives went smoothly!** The calm, clear waters around Gili Air provided perfect conditions for our certification. Visibility was excellent, allowing us to not only focus on our skills but also marvel at the colorful fish and coral surrounding us. The water temperature was comfortable, and the gentle current made for easy diving.
The skills we'd practiced in the confined water pool in London transferred well to the open ocean environment. With Musa's guidance, we completed each skill requirement confidently.
## Officially Certified!
After successfully completing both dives and demonstrating all required skills, we **became certified PADI Open Water Divers**! This certification would allow us to dive anywhere in the world (up to 18 meters depth) and opened up an entirely new way to explore our planet's underwater ecosystems.
*Where did you get your PADI certification? How were your certification dives? Any memorable moments or challenges? Would you recommend Gili Air for diving certification? Share your scuba diving stories below!*
**Completing our PADI Open Water certification in Gili Air's beautiful waters was an unforgettable experience. Blue Marine Dive and instructor Musa provided excellent training in a stunning location. We left Gili Air not just as travelers, but as certified divers ready to explore oceans around the world!**
### PADI Theory: Studying for Open Water Certification
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/padi
Location: Gili Air, Indonesia
Date: 2018-01-14
**We dedicated the day to reading PADI's home-study materials for our Open Water Diver Certificate. While studying wasn't exactly thrilling, doing it on the beautiful island of Gili Air made it much more enjoyable.**
## Completing Our Diving Education
Five months earlier, we had started our PADI Open Water Diver course but hadn't finished it. Now in Gili Air, we were determined to complete our certification. We spent the day working through PADI's theory materials, covering everything from dive physics and equipment to safety procedures and underwater communication.
## Study Session in Paradise
The theory component of the PADI Open Water course covers five modules:
- **Module 1**: Introduction to scuba diving
- **Module 2**: Dive equipment and how it works
- **Module 3**: The underwater environment
- **Module 4**: Diving skills and techniques
- **Module 5**: Dive planning and emergency procedures
Studying this material on Gili Air - with its white sand beaches, swaying palm trees, and crystal-clear waters visible in the distance - certainly beat studying in a classroom back home!
## Passing the Exam
After reviewing all the materials, we took and **passed the PADI Open Water Diver course exam**. The written test confirmed we understood the essential concepts of recreational scuba diving. We were officially ready for our two certification dives scheduled for the next day!
## Beach Celebration
To celebrate completing the theory component, we indulged ourselves with a good dinner and a few drinks along the beach. The anticipation of exploring the underwater world was building - tomorrow we would put all this theory into practice beneath the waves.
*Did you get your PADI certification? Where did you complete your Open Water course? How did you find the theory component? Any tips for nervous first-time divers? Share your diving certification experiences below!*
**Completing the PADI theory was an important milestone. While the studying wasn't the most exciting part of our Gili Air stay, knowing we were one step closer to exploring the underwater world made it worthwhile. The real adventure would begin tomorrow with our certification dives!**
### Fast Boat to Gili Air: Island Paradise Awaits
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/fast-boat-gili-air
Location: Gili Air, Indonesia
Date: 2018-01-13
**We took a fast boat from Padang Bai to Gili Air, traveling via Gili Trawangan. The journey revealed Indonesia's island magic - peaceful beaches, crystal-clear waters, and the best beef rendang burrito we've ever tasted.**
## Journey to Paradise
We departed from Ubud by shuttle bus, heading to Padang Bai on Bali's east coast. The fast boat journey takes you first to **Gili Trawangan**, the "party island" of the Gili trio. We waited about 30 minutes while passengers disembarked and new ones boarded - most travelers were staying on Gili T, leaving our boat nearly empty for the final leg to Gili Air.
## Peaceful Island Paradise
When we arrived at Gili Air a few minutes later, we immediately felt the tranquility. The island was blissfully peaceful - the **low season combined with the recent eruption of Bali's Mount Agung volcano** had kept most visitors away. While this was challenging for local businesses, we savored the serenity of having the white sand beaches almost entirely to ourselves.
## Snorkeling and Island Life
After settling in, we explored the crystal-clear waters through snorkeling, then cooled off in our guesthouse pool. The underwater visibility was spectacular - the calm waters and lack of crowds made for perfect conditions to see colorful fish and coral.
## Warung Sunny - A Culinary Discovery
That evening, we dressed up and walked to a local Indonesian restaurant called [**Warung Sunny**](https://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Restaurant_Review-g664667-d12442556-Reviews-or10-Warung_Sunny-Gili_Air_Gili_Islands_Lombok_West_Nusa_Tenggara.html). This unassuming spot served what would become one of our favorite meals in Indonesia: **the Beef Rendang Burrito**. The fusion of traditional Indonesian rendang spices wrapped in a burrito format was absolutely divine - a perfect blend of authentic local flavors with Western convenience. No better way to end the day than with a full belly and happy heart.
*Did you visit the Gili Islands? Which island did you prefer - Air, Trawangan, or Meno? How was your fast boat experience? Any restaurant recommendations on Gili Air? Share your island paradise stories below!*
**Gili Air struck the perfect balance - quieter than party-focused Gili Trawangan, but livelier than tiny Gili Meno. With pristine beaches, excellent snorkeling, and delicious food at places like Warung Sunny, it was an ideal island escape.**
### Labuan Bajo to Ubud: Returning to Bali's Cultural Heart
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/labuan-bajo-ubud
Location: Ubud, Indonesia
Date: 2018-01-12
**We returned to Ubud, Bali's cultural heart. Our flight from Labuan Bajo was slightly delayed and the ride from the airport took ages, reducing our time in the charming Ubud center.**
We really loved Ubud and could have spent more time wandering its streets, exploring rice terraces, visiting temples, and soaking up the artistic atmosphere. The town is known for its traditional crafts, yoga studios, organic cafes, and proximity to cultural sites like the Tegallalang rice terraces and Monkey Forest.
Unfortunately, tight travel schedules meant our Ubud visit was brief - just a stopover on our way to the Gili Islands.
*Did you spend time in Ubud? How long did you stay? What were your favorite Ubud experiences - rice terraces, temples, yoga, or the food scene? Share your Ubud recommendations below!*
**Ubud remains one of our favorite places in Bali. Even a brief visit reminded us why - the cultural richness, artistic vibe, and natural beauty are special. Next time, we'll stay longer!**
### Labuan Bajo: Gateway to Komodo National Park
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/labuan-bajo
Location: Labuan Bajo, Indonesia
Date: 2018-01-11
**After spending 2 days and one night on a boat exploring the Komodo Islands, we needed to rest and recover. We spent time in Labuan Bajo, a port town on the western tip of Flores Island that serves as the base for all trips to Komodo National Park.**
Unfortunately, Labuan Bajo was a bit of a disappointment. The town was dirty, noisy, and not a particularly pleasant place to stay. The primary reason travelers come to Labuan Bajo is to see **Komodo dragons** and go diving in the spectacular waters of Komodo National Park - the town itself is just a transit point.
Having just completed our Komodo boat trip, we weren't missing out. We used our time here to rest, do laundry, and prepare for our next destination: Bali.
*Have you visited Labuan Bajo? Did you use it as a base for Komodo trips? What did you think of the town itself? Any recommendations for making the most of a short stay? Share your Labuan Bajo experiences below!*
**Labuan Bajo served its purpose as a recovery stop after our Komodo adventure. While the town wasn't impressive, it's the necessary gateway to one of Indonesia's most incredible natural attractions - Komodo National Park.**
### Manta Point: Snorkeling with Manta Rays in Komodo
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/manta-point-labuan-bajo
Location: Komodo National Park, Indonesia
Date: 2018-01-10
**We were so happy with Day 1 of our Komodo National Park adventure that when we woke up early on the "liveaboard" boat, we couldn't wait for Manta Point! After a simple breakfast and quick freshwater wash-up (no showers on budget boats!), we set sail for the iconic Padar Island.**
## Morning: Padar Island - Indonesia's Most Iconic View
We cruised to **Pulau Padar**, located between Komodo and Rinca islands within the Komodo archipelago. This stunning island was once inhabited by legendary Komodo dragons, but the beasts have abandoned it due to scarcity of prey wildlife. So we could hike safely!
Equipped with trekking shoes, we began climbing toward the island's peak. We lazily ascended the trail, enjoying the **clear blue sky** and **vibrant green grass** spreading across the volcanic landscape.
The hike had two sections:
- **First section**: Easy stairs through the lower slopes
- **Second section**: More slippery and strenuous as we climbed steeper terrain
### The Most Beautiful Sight in Indonesia
The **panoramic view from the top was mind-blowing** - quite possibly the most beautiful sight in all of Indonesia! Multiple crescent-shaped bays with different colored beaches (white, black, and pink) surrounded by turquoise waters and dramatic volcanic peaks.
Most visitors stopped midway, out of breath, to take selfies. We pushed on to the summit where we could see both sides of the island. We didn't come this far to stop halfway!
To describe the view... it's better to let the pictures do the talking. Words simply don't capture the magnificence.
## The Main Event: Manta Point
We slowly walked down to the pier where our captain was waiting for the **main event of Day 2: swimming with manta rays!**
As we cruised toward Manta Point, our captain suddenly shouted: **"Manta! Manta!"** - pointing at the bow. We rushed to see **3 huge black shadows gliding just below the surface**. Our first glimpse of these giant marine animals! Hopefully not the last...
### First Encounter
We arrived at **Manta Point** where 4 other boats were already anchored. Our captain slowly navigated, guided by the deckhand scanning the water. We could occasionally spot shadows beneath the surface. The pressure was building. *Had we just missed them?*
Suddenly - we spotted **many manta rays in the distance**! The boat gently approached, and we were invited to jump into the crystal-blue water.
We interacted with **a dozen manta rays** circling gracefully around us! These gentle and charismatic creatures:
- Flapped their massive wings elegantly
- Dropped down to "greet" us
- Came within touching distance
- Opened their wide cavernous mouths (slightly frightening!)
But we were safe - these placid animals only consume plankton. Despite their size and power, they're completely harmless to humans.
### Second Session - Even Better!
After 15 minutes of intimate encounters with these curious underwater giants, our captain called us back. He wanted to find a better spot. **And he did!**
From the boat, we observed **more than 20 manta rays** heading in one direction. With great excitement, our captain overtook them, positioning the boat ahead. We quickly put on flippers and masks, then entered the water **directly in their path**.
What we experienced next left us completely awestruck:
For 15 minutes, we watched the manta rays **glide past us**, seemingly impervious to our presence. We became part of the pack, trying to keep up as long as possible. But eventually, they moved elegantly away, disappearing into the blue.
### Third Session - One More Time!
The experience was so unbelievable that we asked the captain for a **third session**. He agreed and found another pack of mantas! Even our experienced captain was surprised to see so many.
Without hesitation, we jumped in one last time to admire these **"birds of the sea."** Back on the boat afterward, we were all smiling from ear to ear. We knew we'd just experienced something truly amazing - a once-in-a-lifetime encounter.
## Afternoon: Kanawa Beach Snorkeling
We ended the extraordinary day with snorkeling around **Kanawa Beach**, reportedly one of the best spots in all of Southeast Asia. The coral reefs were pristine, teeming with colorful fish and healthy marine ecosystems.
## An Unforgettable Experience
Sailing around **Komodo National Park** remained without doubt the **highlight of our entire Indonesia trip**. Swimming with manta rays at Manta Point was an incredible and magical experience that might even top our hot air balloon ride over Bagan, Myanmar. This memory will always hold a special place in our hearts.
*Have you snorkeled at Manta Point? How many manta rays did you see? Have you had similarly moving encounters with wildlife? Share your underwater adventures and animal encounters below!*
Pin These Moments
**Swimming with manta rays at Manta Point was the crowning jewel of our Komodo adventure. Combined with the breathtaking Padar Island panorama, Day 2 delivered experiences we'll treasure forever. Komodo National Park isn't just about dragons - it's a complete paradise for nature lovers and adventure seekers!**
### Komodo Tour Package: 2-Day Boat Expedition Through Paradise
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/komodo-tour-package-komodo-national-park-2-day-boat-tour
Location: Komodo National Park, Indonesia
Date: 2018-01-09
**We set off from Labuan Bajo port for a two-day, one-night expedition through Komodo National Park - nestled between Flores and Sumbawa islands. This adventure would bring us face-to-face with legendary Komodo dragons, stunning marine life, and the otherworldly Pink Beach!**
## The Komodo Tour Package
Our tour would visit three iconic islands: **Komodo Island**, **Rinca Island**, and **Padar Island**. Both Komodo and Rinca are home to the famous **Komodo Dragon** (also known as the Komodo Monitor, but "Komodo Dragon" is way cooler!).
This expedition was our golden ticket to encounter **the world's largest living lizard**, along with stunning arrays of corals, tropical fish, seabirds, and sea turtles flourishing near these volcanic islands. We were beyond excited to hunt down these legendary prehistoric creatures!
## The Budget Boat Experience
The local wooden boat was **old and rusty** - typical for budget tours unless you pay significantly more. Our basic vessel featured:
- ❌ No cabins
- ❌ No shower
- ✅ One "clean" Western toilet
- ✅ Tea, coffee, and ice-cold water
- ✅ Simple but delicious meals
We'd been warned to stock up on beer, soft drinks, and snacks before departure. The crew consisted of a **captain and a deckhand** who spoke no English but were constantly smiling and courteous. They weren't the entertaining type, but we didn't mind - the **three Spanish companions** we'd teamed up with turned out to be great guys, and the atmosphere on board was light and friendly.
## Day 1: Rinca Island - Dragons Galore!
After sailing through beautiful scenery and soaking up fresh sea air from the bow, we arrived at **Rinca Island**. Being January (low season), only five boats were anchored - come July or August, and you'll share the island with 10 times more visitors!
### More Dragons Than Komodo Island!
We learned that **Rinca Island**, often overlooked by tourists focusing on Komodo Island, actually has **more Komodo dragons**! (Maybe they should swap the names?) The island's landscape makes it an excellent place to spot the lizards in their natural habitat.
As we bought our entrance tickets, we spotted **five Komodo dragons lounging near the ranger office**, attracted by the smell of food. The rangers assured us they were **never fed** - it's crucial to maintain their killer instincts.
### Dangerous Neighbors
The giant lizards aren't the only deadly creatures living on these islands. **Cobras, Russell's Pit Vipers, and Green Tree Vipers** are equally dangerous. Venturing alone is strictly forbidden, so we hired a mandatory ranger guide.
### The Trek
We chose the **medium 90-minute trek** through shaded forest - offering the best chances to see these cold-blooded killers sheltering from the heat. The trail was flat and smooth as we wandered the bush searching for beasts.
**Dragons are solitary**, coming together only to eat or breed. One by one, we encountered several Komodo dragons including:
- A **baby dragon** that our guide allowed to approach us
- A **female protecting her nest**
- Multiple adult dragons basking and hunting
Slowly, in silence, the baby dragon walked past us. **Happiness, fear, and awe** - all feelings mixed together in that unforgettable moment.
## Day 1 Afternoon: Komodo Island
After our morning trek, we embarked for a quick lunch and nap on the longboat as we cruised to **Komodo Island**. Once there, we spotted even more dragons up close!
Our ranger, armed only with a **forked stick** (which didn't seem like enough protection!), kept watch over us. We remained cautious about our safety throughout the trek.
Along the way, we also encountered:
- **Crab-eating macaques**
- **Water buffalo**
- **Rusa deer**
All of these animals are on the menu for the world's largest living lizard!
## Pink Beach - Snorkeling Paradise
After sweating through both treks, we were thrilled to reach **Pink Beach** (Pantai Merah). When we swam ashore, the sand was indeed **pinkish** - colored by crushed red coral mixed with white sand!
The reef was a **snorkeling paradise**. Since all fishing activities are banned in the national park, marine life is abundant and vibrant. We spotted:
- A **huge sea turtle** that we followed for 15 minutes
- Countless colorful tropical fish
- Stunning bright corals in every direction
The underwater world rivaled the terrestrial dragon encounters for sheer wonder!
## Night on the Deck
After leaving the unusual pink beach, we returned to the boat for dinner. Post-meal, the crew set up **mattresses on the open deck** for sleeping under the stars.
The night was peaceful and quiet. In the distance, we could hear a party boat blasting music (must have been unbearable for boats moored nearby!). Our wise captain had anchored further down the beach for tranquility.
We fell asleep in **the only place in the world where you can see Komodo dragons in the wild** - a magical thought to drift off to.
*Have you been on a Komodo tour? Did you choose budget or luxury? Which island had more dragons in your experience? Did you snorkel at Pink Beach? Share your Komodo National Park adventures below!*
Pin These Moments
**Our 2-day Komodo boat tour exceeded all expectations! From heart-pounding encounters with the world's largest lizards to swimming with sea turtles at Pink Beach, to sleeping under stars on the boat deck - every moment was an adventure. Komodo National Park truly is one of the world's most extraordinary wildlife destinations!**
### Bali to Komodo Island: Flight to Labuan Bajo
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/bali-komodo-island
Location: Labuan Bajo, Indonesia
Date: 2018-01-08
**We were already leaving Bali, the Island of the Gods, for Komodo Island! A new adventure awaited on Flores Island - tracking legendary Komodo dragons in their natural habitat.**
## Departing Bali
Our shuttle bus picked us up early in the morning for the journey to **Ngurah Rai International Airport** (Denpasar). Our flight to Labuan Bajo wasn't until the afternoon, leaving us with several hours to kill at the airport - not exactly the most exciting way to spend time.
We passed the hours indulging in **French pastries** and a few drinks. Sometimes airport lounging is all you need before the real adventure begins!
## Arriving in Labuan Bajo
As we landed at **Komodo Airport (LBJ)**, our guesthouse driver was running late. Within seconds, a dozen eager taxi drivers rushed toward us, each pushing aggressively to secure our business. It became exhausting repeatedly saying: *"No, don't need a taxi. Our ride is coming."*
The persistent taxi hustling was our first taste of Labuan Bajo's tourist-driven economy - this sleepy port town has transformed into the busy gateway to one of Indonesia's most famous attractions.
## Organizing the Komodo Expedition
After checking into our simple guesthouse, [**World Bnb**](https://www.booking.com/hotel/id/world-bnb.html?aid=1296479), we had an important task: organizing our trip to the Komodo Islands. We met up with **three Spanish guys** to form a group for the expedition.
Having a larger group would significantly reduce per-person costs. After shopping around and negotiating, we settled on **IDR 1,200,000 each** (approximately $85 USD) - excluding the Komodo National Park entrance fees and mandatory ranger/guide costs.
The price was reasonable for a **non-luxury boat trip**. We'd be sleeping on the deck under the stars rather than in cabins. How bad could it be? (Spoiler: It would become one of our favorite travel experiences!)
## Exploring Labuan Bajo Port
We set off for the port area where most of Labuan Bajo's life happens - the **night market**, restaurants, and waterfront bars all concentrated near the harbor. The port bustled with activity as boats prepared for the next day's Komodo expeditions and fishermen returned with their catches.
Tomorrow, we'd join them - setting sail for **Komodo National Park** to encounter the world's largest living lizards in the wild!
*Have you visited Komodo National Park? How did you organize your boat trip? Did you go budget or luxury? Any tips for negotiating tours in Labuan Bajo? Share your Komodo planning experiences below!*
**Leaving Bali behind for Labuan Bajo felt bittersweet - we'd fallen in love with the Island of the Gods. But excitement for our Komodo adventure overshadowed any sadness. Tomorrow we'd set sail to encounter living dinosaurs in one of the world's most remarkable national parks!**
### Campuhan Ridge Walk: Ubud's Scenic Nature Trail
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/campuhan-ridge-walk
Location: Ubud, Indonesia
Date: 2018-01-07
**We kicked off the day with an easy hike called the Campuhan Ridge Walk - probably the most popular walk in Ubud, and for good reason. If you're not convinced, just check the Instagram photos! It was the perfect way to spend our last morning before saying goodbye to Ubud.**
## Morning Temple Visit: Pura Taman Saraswati
Our hotel, the [Merthayasa Bungalow 2](https://www.booking.com/hotel/id/merthayasa-bungalow-2-ubud1?aid=1296479), was about a mile from the trailhead, so we crossed through Ubud's town center. On our way, we stopped at **Pura Taman Saraswati**, a beautiful Hindu temple surrounded by water gardens and lotus ponds.
We'd spotted this temple the day before but it was overrun with tourists. This morning? We had the entire place to ourselves! The lotus ponds were still, the temple carvings caught the early light, and there wasn't a selfie stick in sight.
## Through Ubud's Bustling Market
We kept walking, passing by the **Ubud Palace** and **Ubud Market** (locally called "Pasar Seni" - Art Market). The market was bustling with life even early in the morning. We admired:
- Women balancing huge baskets on their heads with incredible poise
- Children wearing traditional Balinese dress
- Numerous **Canang Sari** offerings decorating streets, shrines, and shop doorways
## Finding the Campuhan Ridge Walk Trailhead
We knew some people struggled to find the starting point of the Campuhan Ridge Walk, but honestly, the paved trail wasn't hard to locate. It's marked on Google Maps, and we saw clear signs saying "This Way Trekking Campuhan Ridge."
If you ask anyone in Ubud, they'll point you toward the [**Warwick Ibah Villas and Spa**](https://www.booking.com/hotel/id/warwick-ibah-luxury-villas-spa.html?aid=1296479), the most prominent landmark near the trailhead. How could we miss it?
## The Campuhan Ridge Walk
We began the trek passing by the walls of **Pura Gunung Lebah Temple** on one side, with the **Campuhan River** flowing below on the other. The slightly tilted uphill path took us through a mini forest before the ridge opened up and we could suddenly see for miles.
The trail overlooked **green rice fields** stretching out on both sides, with hills rolling off into the distance. Farmers were already working in the terraced fields below. We bumped into a few local joggers getting their exercise in before the heat became unbearable.
### Karsa Kafe
After about an hour of walking, we found the cute **"Karsa Kafe"** that everyone talks about. The restaurant sits right in the middle of rice fields with lotus ponds on either side - one of those places where you order a juice and end up staying way longer than planned.
We continued past the cafe, stopping further down the road for more refreshments. Once we'd had our fill of photos and wandering, we headed back to the hotel to cool off by the pool. Of course, Kro stopped for more shopping at the boutiques lining Jalan Raya Ubud street. **That woman cannot walk past a shop without going in!**
## Agung Rai Museum of Art
Later in the afternoon, we headed south of Ubud to the **Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA)**. Agung Rai founded this museum to preserve Balinese and Indonesian art, and it's well worth a couple of hours.
The museum complex is bigger than you'd expect - it doubles as a resort, and includes art galleries, a library, a public school, a small working rice field, and tropical gardens you can wander through.
## Kecak Fire & Trance Dance
After our day of exploration, we booked tickets for a **Kecak Fire & Trance Dance** performance. Kecak is a distinctive Balinese dance accompanied by a male chorus chanting rhythmically.
The show held our attention the whole way through, but the final act floored us - a performer **danced barefoot on burning fire**! We were sitting close enough to feel the heat. The rhythmic chanting from fifty-odd men circling the stage made the whole thing feel almost hypnotic.
## Perfect Ending in Ubud
The show made us thirsty. Luckily, you can't walk ten meters in Ubud without passing a bar. We kicked back with a **Mojito and an espresso martini** to toast our last night - we were leaving for Komodo the next morning and already feeling a bit sad about it.
*Have you hiked the Campuhan Ridge Walk? What time of day did you go? Did you visit Karsa Kafe? Have you seen a Kecak Fire Dance performance? Share your Ubud hiking and cultural experiences below!*
Pin These Moments
**If you only have one morning in Ubud, spend it on the Campuhan Ridge Walk. It's free, it's easy, and those rice field views stick with you. Add a Kecak Fire Dance in the evening and you've got yourself a pretty great last day.**
### Ubud Monkey Forest: The Sacred Sanctuary of Padangtegal
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/ubud-monkey-forest-bali
Location: Ubud, Indonesia
Date: 2018-01-06
**Today's plan was the Ubud Monkey Forest, also known as the Sacred Monkey Forest of Padangtegal. But first - we started our day with a swim, breakfast, laundry, and an early morning visit to Ubud's local market for some smart shopping.**
## Early Morning Market Shopping
We headed to **Ubud's local (touristic) market** early in the morning, knowing we'd get better prices. The first sale of the day is believed to bring good luck in Balinese culture, so shopkeepers often offer significant discounts to conclude that first transaction quickly.
Surprisingly, we found the market nearly empty of tourists - most visitors don't know about this trick! We took full advantage: Kro bought a beautiful long grey dress for **IDR 100,000**, bargained down from IDR 250,000. That's 60% off just by arriving early!
## Strolling Through Ubud
We strolled through Ubud's streets, carefully dodging the **Canang Sari** - daily offerings placed on the ground by Balinese Hindus. These beautiful little pallets filled with rice, candies, flowers, and incense honor the gods. The nature-based worship was a stark contrast to the loud (and very early) calls to prayer from mosques we'd experienced in Java. Bali is a Hindu island in an otherwise predominantly Muslim country.
Every other minute, someone would call out: "Taxi! Taxi! Motorbike rent!" Ubud has no shortage of taxi drivers and motorbike rental offers. We couldn't walk two minutes without being offered a ride. It soon became background noise.
## Ubud Royal Palace
On our way to the Monkey Forest, we passed the **Ubud Palace** where the Ubud royal family apparently still lives. The palace is open to the public at no cost - and we love free attractions! We explored the numerous statues draped in colorful sarongs, admired the ornate doors, and examined the detailed carvings. In 30 minutes we'd seen the entire small complex.
## Entering the Sacred Monkey Forest
After a filling smoothie, we headed to the **Ubud Monkey Forest**. The entrance fee was a bargain at only **50,000 IDR** (about $3.50 USD). However, we were genuinely concerned about our safety.
We'd heard numerous horror stories about people being attacked. Monkey bites occur daily at the sanctuary. We took precautions:
- Hid all belongings deep in our backpack
- Left our pockets completely empty
- Skipped the banana vendors (didn't want to attract too much attention from the 600 macaques)
- Were ready to run if necessary
We entered the forest warily - we weren't vaccinated for rabies and couldn't risk being bitten.
## 600 Macaques in Their Natural Habitat
We explored the sanctuary trying to avoid direct eye contact with these "evil creatures" (though they looked absolutely adorable and innocent!). Cute **baby monkeys** were everywhere - playing, feeding on bananas, swinging through the trees like Tarzan, fighting with each other. We gradually relaxed and grew more confident. It was wonderful seeing the Ubud monkeys in their natural habitat.
The forest itself was stunning, with ancient **Hindu temples**, narrow jungle paths, gorgeous stone bridges, and intricate monkey-inspired carvings throughout.
## The Monkey Attack!
We wandered peacefully through the sanctuary... until **a grey-haired long-tailed monkey abruptly jumped on Kro** and clung to her camera case! The monkey was literally pulling items out of her bag. Fortunately, he only found:
- Tissues
- Our Ubud map
- Our Monkey Forest entrance tickets
The thief hopped down and tore apart his "treasure," perhaps disgusted not to find anything edible. We tried to retrieve the rubbish, but the little bandit wouldn't let go - he growled and bared his sharp incisors at us. We wisely backed away and continued our exploration, now much more cautious!
## Tropical Storm
Just as we were calming down from our monkey encounter, the sky opened up. It started **pouring rain**, turning the pavements into rushing rivers. We sheltered by the park's exit waiting for the storm to pass. It didn't stop.
We left the Ubud Sacred Monkey Forest soaked, went for food, and Kro went on a shopping spree. She hurt her leg during the day (don't worry, she's fine!). We called it a day after our eventful adventure.
## Is the Ubud Monkey Forest Worth Visiting?
**Yes!** We believe the Ubud Monkey Forest is a must-visit attraction in Bali. Just come prepared and follow the safety advice provided by the park:
- Don't carry visible bags or items
- Skip the banana vendors unless you're prepared for aggressive monkey attention
- Avoid eye contact and sudden movements
- Remember that these are **wild animals** despite how cute and approachable they seem
The combination of ancient temples, lush jungle, and playful (if mischievous) monkeys makes for an unforgettable experience!
*Did you visit the Ubud Monkey Forest? Were you brave enough to buy bananas? Did any monkeys steal from you? Share your monkey encounter stories below!*
Pin These Moments
**The Ubud Monkey Forest combines ancient Hindu temples, lush jungle pathways, and 600 playful macaques for an unforgettable wildlife encounter. Despite our close call with a bag-raiding monkey, it remains one of our favorite Ubud experiences - just remember these are wild animals and come prepared!**
### Banyuwangi to Ubud
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/banyuwangi-ubud
Location: Unknown, Unknown
Date: 2018-01-05
After a restful night at the amazing [Didu's Homestay](https://www.booking.com/hotel/id/didu-39-s-homestay-bed-amp-breakfast.html?aid=1296479;), and a filling delicious breakfast we took a minivan to Ubud, the cultural capital of Bali. After the check-in, we familiarised ourselves with the surroundings and walk around the main streets in the heart of Ubud. We spotted a nice restaurant on TripAdvisor, Warung Pondok Madu, and weren’t disappointed. The Indonesian food was clean, spicy on demand and all-around delicious and comforting.
### The Grand Circuit Angkor
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/grand-circuit-angkor
Location: Unknown, Unknown
Date: 2017-12-09
The central sites of Angkor are officially split up into two routes consisting of the Small Circuit Angkor and the **Grand Circuit Angkor**. We opted to visit today The **Grand Circuit Angkor** with a tuk-tuk. The **Grand Circuit** was, in fact, an extension of the shorter Small Circuit loop, taking in a few more temples.
The **Big Circuit** portrayed the rich variety of architecture found in Angkor Archaeological Park. Few visitors opted for this tour preferring the shorter version which contains the big three Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Prohm.
Today, we hired the services of a tuk-tuk driver to explore the Grand Circuit of Angkor, the remains of the Khmer Empire. To have enough time and avoid the crowd, we began early by a sunrise over Angkor Wat.
We crawled out of bed at 4:30 to join hundreds for the sunrise over Angkor Wat, the symbol of Cambodia, appearing on its national flag in 1850. We weren’t disappointed. The scenery was out of the world. Once we had our fill of the sunrise, we explored the largest religious monument in the world while the temperatures were still low and the crowd minimum.
## The Angkor Wat Temple
Preah Kahn, one of the largest complexes at Angkor, was just a bit further out. The site was lost in a jungle and full of endless corridors to explore. There was no crowd. We were probably too early for the bus full of Chinese tourists.
## The Preah Khan Temple
The delicate Neak Prean, a tiny gem of a temple surrounded by pools of water was next on the list.
## The Neak Pean Temple
We drove to the moated temple, Ta Som.
## The Ta Som Temple
The East Mebon featuring elephant statues carved out of a single block of stone was our last stop for the day. There we concluded the **Grand Circuit Angkor.**
## East Mebon
### The Small Circuit Angkor
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/small-circuit-angkor
Location: Unknown, Unknown
Date: 2017-12-08
We rented a bicycle to explore the Angkor temples. There are two main routes to discover at Angkor: the small circuit and the large circuit. Today’s program was to explore the "**Small Circuit** **Angkor"**, a 17 kilometres ride which took us amongst some major and minor temples of Angkor. We bought the 3-days ticket from the ticket office and started our exploration. We planned to do the "[**Grand Circuit** **Angkor**](/diaries/grand-circuit-angkor)" the next day. We skipped Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom as we would explore them on our second and third day in Siem Reap. But both are also part of the **Small Circuit**.
We began with the 10th-century Temple, Prasat Kravan. The five-towered reddish brick shrine was our first ever temple in Angkor. Despite its small size, the temple was quiet and peaceful. Most temples in Angkor are overrun by hordes of Chinese tourists. We needed to be clever to avoid the crowd. Starting the small circuit early gave us some advantages (plus the heat is more bearable). Doing the small circuit in reverse also seems to help.
## Prasat Kravan
Banteay Kdei Temple also known as "Citadel of Monks' was next on the list and remains our favourite temple. The quiet serenity must have been for something as we were almost on our own. The maze of monastery old ruins overgrown with pristine trees resulted in ample photographic opportunities. An authentic paradise for photographers. Plus, we could easily snap pictures without any tourists in the frame. The less restored temple was just stunning in the morning light. We loved the impressive Garudas adorning the four gates, the crumbling towers, the majestic pond and the detailed carvings.
## Banteay Kdei
The Buddhist temple of Ta Prohm was next. The site made famous by the blockbuster Lara Croft: Tomb Raider was a major attraction. We wandered in the corridors of the unrestored temples. Ta Prohm has been purposely left as it was discovered in 1920. Everywhere huge trees and massive roots were taking over the crumbling temple. The banyan or strangler fig trees were slowly winning the battle at engulfing the majestic architecture.
## Ta Prohm
We ended up the day with a visit to Phnom Bakheng on top of the four hills in the Angkor area. All the guides tend to suggest that this is the place to go for the sunset view. As only 300 visitors are allowed to climb the temple at a time, we went early to secure our access. The popular tourist spot was already full by 5ish and people started queuing in the hope to get a golden ticket to climb up. We waited more than an hour before finally witness the sunset. The sunset was not over Angkor Wat as we read of some blogs but mainly over the lush forest. Still, it was a good photographic viewpoint. As the sun set, we headed off into the city centre for an amazing dinner at the Footprint Cafes to conclude our **small circuit** **Angkor.**
## Phnom Bakheng
## Who much time do you need to visit The Small Circuit Angkor
- Prasat Kravan: 30 minutes to visit.
- Banteay Kdei: Duration between 1h to 2h.
- Ta Prohm: Duration: 2-3 hours.
- Phnom Bakheng: Duration: 1 to 2 hours but you need to be there before 5 pm to get access to the sunset platform as it's limited to 300 visitors at any time.
### Siem Reap
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/where-to-stay-in-siem-reap
Location: Unknown, Unknown
Date: 2017-12-07
We woke up (too) early for a flight to Siem Reap in Cambodia. The city would be our base camp to visit Angkor, the ancient former capital of the Khmer Empire. We googled "**where to stay in Siem Reap"** and found really good reviews for a four-star hotel perfectly located. So we booked it.
After checking in at the [Bopha Residence](https://www.booking.com/hotel/kh/bopha-residence-siem-reap.html?aid=1296479;), we wandered around this neighbourhood of Siem Reap. The city was bursting with life. We stumbled upon a supermarket selling French and Belgian products. We went crazy. In minutes, we bought Belgian beers, "Côte d'Or" chocolate, French baguette, cheese... We rushed to our hotel room to indulge ourselves in a gargantuesque "Comme à la Maison" (like home) meal. Damn, that was good not to eat rice ;-)
With a full belly, we set off for a food-digesting walk. We pass by the night market but could not eat another bite. Shame the food looked delicious. Another day maybe. Now it was time to sleep.
## Where to stay in Siem Reap?
Ideally located in the heart of Siem Reap's city centre, just a short walk from Pub Street or the old markets, the authentic resort [Bopha Residence](https://www.booking.com/hotel/kh/bopha-residence-siem-reap.html?aid=1296479;) boasts a year-round outdoor pool and sun terrace.
The staff was really friendly, polite and helpful. They make us feel comfortable as soon as we checked in. They arranged a free taxi pickup from the airport which was quite far away! We were very late but still; the driver waited for us.
The air-conditioned room painted in neutral palettes were equipped with a clean and private bathroom. We were lucky to have a seating area to relax in after a busy day visiting the Angkor temples.
The delightful breakfast and we could pick from a small menu. We can't recommend the immaculate first class [Bopha Residence](https://www.booking.com/hotel/kh/bopha-residence-siem-reap.html?aid=1296479;) enough. They excelled in their hospitality and the quality of the room and facilities.
### Koh Phi Phi to Phuket
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/koh-phi-phi-phuket
Location: Unknown, Unknown
Date: 2017-12-06
We woke up early to go snorkelling off the beach. With a clear water, we discovered a marine life full of colourful fishes, sea snakes, sea anemones and sea urchins. Later, we took the ferry to Phuket.
### Koh Phi Phi viewpoints
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/koh-phi-phi-viewpoints
Location: Unknown, Unknown
Date: 2017-12-05
We kicked off the day by climbing hundred of uneven steps and walking a twisting path to reach the **Koh Phi Phi viewpoints.** Finding our way to the **Koh Phi Phi viewpoint** was really easy as street signs were visible throughout the main area of the island. After all the viewpoint was also part of the evacuation route in case of a tsunami.
The weather was already scorching hot. Even at 10 am. We suffered more from the heat than the actual 30 minutes hike up to the top of what remains today an icon of Thailand. Check those old screensavers, I am sure you have seen it before.
We paid the ฿30 charge to enter the **Koh Phi Phi viewpoint** where we found a lovely park and a small bar to chill out. No alcohol was allowed as the land belongs to a Muslim family. The panoramic view was worth the physical effort and the small fee. We admired the island from up above, took gorgeous pictures of the two masses connecting in the middle by a narrow where you will find the pier and most island’s restaurants and hotels.
It made us realised how beautiful the place must have been before being turned into a tourist attraction. Don’t get us wrong, the scene was superb. But it must have been amazing before that heavy infrastructure development.
After taking the scenery and catching our breath we walked down to clear our body from the sweat mixed with sunscreen and DEET mosquito repellent.
We head back to the beach, with its sugary white sand and turquoise water to enjoy snorkelling along the shore.
### Maya Bay day trip
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/maya-bay-day-trip
Location: Unknown, Unknown
Date: 2017-12-04
We booked a "Maya Bay day trip" including a stop at the exact location where the Hollywood blockbuster, "The Beach", was filmed in 2000. The backpacker's story with Leonardo Di Caprio still attracts today, after over 17 years, thousands of visitors. Therefore, Maya Beach tours are and remain popular amongst sightseers.
At any given day, between 10 am and 4 pm, thousands will raid the pristine sandy Maya Bay beaches located on the island Phi Phi Ley. Numerous speedboats, ferry boats, dive boats, or Maya Bay tour boats surrounded by snorkelers will invade the glittering azure waters. The only 2 ways to beat the crowd is to leave (very) very early (like 5 am) or arrive late when all the boats go back to Krabi, Phuket or Phi Phi Don. We elected to do the latest.
We meet our group of 30 fellow passengers at the main pier on Phi Phi Don. Half of the group signed up for a night on the \`Krabi Konnect\` boat. The other half, including us, would come back to the island by night. The boat had a clean toilet, plenty of sun baking, shady areas and fresh water on board.
We first sailed off toward the mysterious Viking Cave which is inhabited by thousands of birds called swifts. These particular birds make their nests out of their own saliva. The nests are nimbly harvested by gatherers who scamper up fragile bamboo scaffolding. Later the outrageously valuable product is sold to make a Chinese delicacy called "birds nest soup". In order to not disturb the birds, tourists are not allowed anymore to explore the cave. All Maya Bay tours will only approach the grotto from a distance.
After another half-hour, we arrived at THE BEACH sheltered by limestone cliffs. We swam and jumped from the upper deck. So much fun. But also so scary! We lost one of our snorkelling masks. Another couple lost their Go Pro. Jumping from a boat can be a catastrophic and pricey experience. Luckily a scuba diver from another "Maya Bay tour" helped us to get them back from the seabed of Maya Bay.
As all the other boats and the tourists were taking off the lagoon, we moored on the beach. The stunning shore was just for us! We enjoyed the scenery, the melody of the waves and the soft sand under our feet. We even encountered a small Black Tip Reef shark. The gorgeous background with the sun gradually disappearing was a perfect Instagram-spot. Still, in awe of this beautiful scenery, we headed back to the boat for a hot dinner comprising curry chicken, mixed vegetables and rice. As always, we didn't expect too much from the food but it was honestly correct.
With a full belly, we geared up for another highlight of the Maya Bay day trip. A sunset plankton swim. Equipped with life jackets that we had put upside down (don't ask us why, but wearing them like diapers was supposed to be safer), we plunged into the water for a swim with the bio-luminescent plankton. The underwater light show, right in front of our eyes was incredible.
By 21:00, we were back at the pier on Phi Phi Don. Maya Bay’s popularity has taken a certain degree of the shine from this once unknown slice of paradise. But by arriving late, we could avoid the hoards of boats dropping visitors off and picking them up throughout the day and therefore enjoy our time with the Maya Bay tour!
### Khao Sok to Koh Phi Phi: Journey to Island Paradise
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/khao-sok-phi-phi
Location: Koh Phi Phi, Thailand
Date: 2017-12-03
**We were leaving Khao Sok and its beautiful national park for the famous beaches of the Phi Phi islands!**
## The Long Journey
The combined trip - **minivan plus ferry boat** - was well organized but took most of the day. From Khao Sok's jungle interior to Thailand's stunning Andaman Sea coast, the journey showcased the country's incredible diversity.
## Arriving at Phi Phi Don
We were staying on **Phi Phi Don**, the main and only inhabited island in the Phi Phi archipelago. Full of luxurious hotels, shopping stalls, taxi boats, tattoo parlors, clubs, and bars, the place was cheerful and buzzing with energy.
We learned that Phi Phi is correctly pronounced as **"pee-pee"** (not "fee-fee"!), went for a short walk to orient ourselves, then collapsed on our bed after the long travel day.
*Have you traveled from Khao Sok to Koh Phi Phi? Which transport company did you use? How long did your journey take? Share your Thailand travel tips below!*
**After days in Khao Sok's ancient jungle, the transition to Phi Phi's bustling island atmosphere was dramatic! Tomorrow we'd explore the famous viewpoints and beaches that make this one of Thailand's most iconic destinations.**
### Khao Sok Lake Tour: Floating Bungalows and Cave Exploration
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/khao-sok-lake-tour
Location: Khao Sok, Thailand
Date: 2017-12-02
**We set off for Cheow Lan Lake, an enormous man-made reservoir in Khao Sok National Park. With its fairy-tale scenery, massive towering limestone cliffs, and hundreds of islands jutting skyward, the Khao Sok Lake Tour is a must-do for any visitor!**
## Joining a Guided Tour
We were initially hesitant to join a guided tour - we didn't like being dragged from place to place with no free time to soak up the atmosphere. Plus, we worried about being sardined into a longtail boat for the ride across the reservoir canals.
Unfortunately, private options were prohibitively expensive. So we agreed to join a tour from our hotel, **Our Jungle Camp**. We were not disappointed!
## Journey to Cheow Lan Lake
The guide picked us up and drove an hour to **Ratchaprabha Dam** - the only access point to Khao Sok Lake. On the way, we briefly stopped at a local colorful market to stock up on water, fruits, and **cheap shoes**. Apparently, we'd ruin whatever footwear we were currently wearing!
## Boat Ride Through Paradise
Boats were waiting at the pier. After a bathroom break, we boarded the traditional long-tail boat for a good **hour-long ride across Khao Sok National Park Lake**.
We were lucky to get **front seats** - the best spot to admire the spectacular karst topography! The limestone formations reminded us of **Guilin, China**. Everyone aboard was in awe, and so were we.
Being in the front row also meant getting **completely soaked**! All our clothes were drenched, but the view was absolutely worth it.
## Floating Raft Houses
After an hour, we reached the tranquil and secluded **floating raft houses**. We were greeted with a Thai lunch shared with our fellow passengers. The food was decent - not amazing, but good enough. We needed energy for the next big event: a **muddy, leech-infested trek** into the pristine jungle.
## Tham Nam Thalu Cave Complex
Today we were heading for the **Tham Nam Thalu cave complex**. The grotto can be dangerous during rainy season and has claimed lives in 2007 due to sudden flash flooding.
Before reaching the cave, we faced a difficult trail. We walked, slipped in mud, crossed rivers, and climbed rocks while listening to the thick jungle's cacophony. After an hour, we finally spotted the infamous cave entrance.
### Into the Flooded Cave
We approached the grotto from the upstream river - the only safe passage. During dry season when there's absolutely no rain risk, tour guides walk through the entire 750-meter cave from one side to the other. We'd just go in and out from the same entrance.
We stowed our gear in dry bags, geared up with headlamps, and plunged into the grotto's tiny mouth. We ventured into the horseshoe-shaped limestone formation for caving and spelunking. It was **fascinating but also nerve-wracking** - a must-do if you join a Khao Sok Lake Tour!
We **walked, climbed, and swam** through the pitch-black subterranean canyon flooded by the river. The water was freezing cold. Crystal formations along the way gleamed under our torch lights. The experience was surreal and claustrophobic.
After 20 minutes, we emerged again - relieved to be safe and sound, but exhilarated by the incredible experience!
## Swimming and Return
The hike back from the cave to the lake took about an hour. Then we spent an hour swimming in crystal-clear water to wash off all the mud, while others practiced kayaking on the jungle's edge.
We grabbed a quick snack at the raft houses before starting the long journey home. **Khao Sok Lake Tour will remain a highlight** of our few days in this magical national park.
*Have you visited Cheow Lan Lake? Did you stay overnight on the floating raft houses? Did you brave the Tham Nam Thalu cave? Share your Khao Sok adventures below!*
**The Khao Sok Lake Tour delivered everything we hoped for - stunning karst scenery, floating raft houses, and an adrenaline-pumping cave expedition. The claustrophobic swim through Tham Nam Thalu's flooded passages was terrifying and thrilling in equal measure. Unforgettable!**
### Khao Sok National Park Tours: Trekking the Ancient Rainforest
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/khao-sok-national-park-tours
Location: Khao Sok, Thailand
Date: 2017-12-01
**We signed up for an adventure in the evergreen jungle of Khao Sok National Park - one of the oldest rainforests on Earth! Our guide Arm met us after breakfast, and we were immediately impressed by his genuine warmth and extensive knowledge of this incredible nature reserve.**
## Meeting Guide Arm
We jumped on a tuk-tuk to reach the park entrance, excited to explore this primeval rainforest. Arm came from a family of park rangers - both his father and brother work as rangers in Khao Sok. Following their footsteps, he became one of the best guides in the area.
His **eagle eyes** could spot animals we would never see without him. Even when he pointed directly at creatures, we still struggled to see them! It was amazing watching him track wildlife so effortlessly.
## Into the Ancient Jungle
We walked in silence through the jungle, stopping periodically to listen and admire the park's incredible biodiversity. During our trek, we encountered:
- **Troop of monkeys** swinging through the canopy
- **Flying lizards** - rare reptiles we rarely see
- **Venomous snakes** (keeping our distance!)
- **Tarantula** - incredibly lucky since they're nocturnal and stay hidden in holes during daytime
## The Sounds of Gibbons
We heard **gibbons howling in the distance**. These slender, long-armed apes are extremely hard to see as they stay high in the tree canopy, swinging from branch to branch searching for fruits. Arm told us he'd only seen around **20 gibbons during his entire life** exploring Khao Sok National Park - they're that elusive!
Surrounded by the cacophony of sounds from native wildlife, we walked, climbed rocks, and crossed streams until we stopped for lunch. The hike wasn't brutally tough, but still challenging. Starving, we devoured our **Thai fried rice wrapped in traditional banana leaves**.
## Hidden Waterfall Swimming
As we hiked, Arm explained fascinating details about bamboo, orchids, and lianas growing throughout the park. Eventually, we reached a **remote waterfall**! We stripped down to swimsuits and indulged in a refreshing dip. Surprisingly, the water wasn't too cold, and we enjoyed swimming against the river stream.
### The Leech Situation
Our guide kept struggling with **leeches** trying to attach to his legs. Apparently, our DEET repellent kept them away from us foreigners. Arm joked that the bloodsuckers **"preferred spicy Thai food!"**
Luckily, unlike the larger leeches in northern Thailand, these Khao Sok leeches were small and easy to pull off.
## Heading Back
After the waterfall, we were in the home stretch. Darkness comes fast in the jungle, and we were keen to return to our hotel. We took hot showers, scrubbed ourselves clean, and collapsed on our beds - exhausted but exhilarated!
*Have you trekked in Khao Sok National Park? Did you spot any rare wildlife? How was your guide experience? Share your jungle adventure stories below!*
**Hiring guide Arm was the best decision we made! His expert knowledge and tracking skills revealed Khao Sok's hidden wildlife and made our jungle trek an unforgettable adventure. We'd never have spotted that tarantula or learned so much about this ancient rainforest without him!**
### Krabi to Khao Sok: Journey to the Jungle
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/krabi-khao-sok
Location: Khao Sok, Thailand
Date: 2017-11-30
**We took a minivan from Krabi to Khao Sok National Park, leaving behind the beaches and limestone karsts for one of the oldest rainforests on Earth!**
## The Journey
The 2.5-hour drive from Krabi to Khao Sok was scenic and comfortable. As we traveled inland, the landscape gradually transformed from coastal limestone formations to dense jungle canopy. The anticipation of exploring this ancient rainforest grew with every kilometer.
## Arriving in Khao Sok
We arrived at our jungle bungalow accommodation in the late afternoon, ready to rest before tomorrow's adventures in the national park. The sounds of the jungle immediately surrounded us - a symphony of insects, birds, and distant howler monkeys that would be our soundtrack for the next few days.
*Have you traveled from Krabi to Khao Sok? Which transport company did you use? Any tips for making the journey? Share your Thailand travel experiences below!*
**Leaving Krabi's beaches for Khao Sok's jungle felt like entering another world. Tomorrow we'd start exploring one of the planet's oldest rainforests - home to elephants, gibbons, and incredible biodiversity!**
### Railay Beach: Remote Paradise Accessible Only by Boat
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/railay-beach-remote-paradise
Location: Railay Beach, Thailand
Date: 2017-11-29
**The bed at our hotel Kokotel in Ao Nang was incredibly soft and comfortable - it was hard to leave! But we wanted to hit the beaches before the crowds arrived. We left our warm duvet, took a shower, and headed for Ao Nang Beach to catch a longtail boat to Railay.**
## The Only Way In: Longtail Boat
The only way in and out of **Railay Beach** (also known as Rai Leh) is by longtail boat - the towering limestone cliffs cut off all land access, making it feel wonderfully remote despite being so close to Ao Nang.
We boarded a traditional longtail boat and navigated to the famous beach. The pristine sand surrounded by signature limestone karst cliffs and lush jungle was **exactly as quiet as we'd hoped** - most tourists aren't morning people! The whole area had a very romantic and laid-back ambiance, though we guessed it would be quite different during high season.
## Kayaking to Hidden Beaches
We rented a kayak to explore several beaches, including:
- **Phra Nang Beach (Princess Cave)** - The most famous
- Several **unnamed secluded coves** - Completely deserted!
- **Tonsai Beach** - Popular with rock climbers
The freedom to paddle wherever we wanted, discovering tiny beaches with no one else around, was incredibly liberating.
## Phra Nang's Princess Cave
Phra Nang Beach hides a fascinating peculiarity. On the southern side of the beach, we found a **cave full of phallus carvings and wooden penises**! These offerings have been placed by fishermen, locals, and visitors to honor the **Princess of the Cave** who, according to legend, will grant them fertility and prosperity.
The cave shrine is a unique blend of Thai spiritual beliefs and coastal fishing culture - unexpected but genuinely interesting!
## Rock Climbing Paradise
While we didn't climb ourselves, Railay is world-famous as a rock climbing destination. The towering limestone karsts provide hundreds of routes for all skill levels, and we watched climbers scaling the cliffs throughout the day. The combination of stunning views and challenging routes makes Railay a bucket-list destination for climbers globally.
*Have you visited Railay Beach? Did you try rock climbing or stick to beach hopping? What did you think of the Princess Cave? Share your Railay experiences below!*
**Railay Beach was everything we'd hoped for - a remote paradise with stunning limestone scenery, hidden coves to explore by kayak, and fascinating cultural sites like the Princess Cave. The lack of road access keeps it peaceful and special, even as tourism grows around Krabi!**
### Southern Thailand: First Impressions of Krabi
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/southern-thailand
Location: Krabi, Thailand
Date: 2017-11-28
**We were leaving Bangkok for Southern Thailand - a distinct region connected to central Thailand by the narrow Kra Isthmus. We took a Grab taxi to the airport, caught a flight, then transferred to a minivan to reach Krabi by day's end.**
## The Journey South
A full day of transport isn't always exciting, but we've learned to appreciate those moments for catching up on blog work and writing content for you, our wonderful readers! The journey from Bangkok's urban chaos to Krabi's beaches was worth every hour.
## Arriving in Ao Nang
Our hotel, [**Kokotel Krabi Ao Nang**](https://www.booking.com/hotel/th/kokotel-krabi-ao-nang.en-gb.html?aid=1296479), was located just steps from the main strip of shops and vendors. With only a short walk to the beach, we were incredibly excited to call this home for the next 3 days.
## Evening Beach Stroll
We strolled along the sandy beach of **Ao Nang**, though we couldn't see much detail as night had already fallen. The sound of waves, warm tropical air, and the silhouettes of famous limestone karsts in the distance promised amazing exploration ahead.
We stopped for a quick, light dinner and called it a day. Tomorrow would be busy exploring the stunning surroundings of Krabi - including the famous Railay Beach!
*Have you visited Krabi and Ao Nang? Where did you stay? What were your first impressions of Southern Thailand? Share your Krabi experiences below!*
**After a full day of travel, arriving in Krabi felt like stepping into a completely different Thailand - trading Bangkok's skyscrapers for limestone karsts and city streets for pristine beaches. Tomorrow we'd discover why Krabi is one of Thailand's most beloved destinations!**
### The Overcrowded Grand Palace: Bangkok's Most Famous Temple
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/overcrowded-grand-palace
Location: Bangkok, Thailand
Date: 2017-11-27
**We woke up early and hopped in a taxi to visit one of Bangkok's biggest highlights - the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, the top must-see for first-time visitors to Bangkok.**
## Arriving at the Grand Palace
We arrived at the entrance around **9:00 AM** thinking we'd beaten the crowds. We were wrong - it was **already packed**. So crowded, in fact, that we struggled to enjoy the experience.
Don't get us wrong: **Thailand's most sacred site** is magnificent. The buildings are absolutely stunning. The details of each monument are breathtaking. At every corner, we found something even more mesmerizing.
But we also found **new hordes of tour groups** flocking to every available square meter. This was just too much to handle.
## The Temple of the Emerald Buddha
We visited the **Temple of the Emerald Buddha** (Wat Phra Kaew), jostling with what felt like half the population of China. We could barely see the famous green jade Buddha from a distance due to the crowds.
It was **almost impossible to take a decent picture** without someone stepping directly in front of you. We gave up trying and decided to leave, reaching for the exit as fast as we could.
## The Crowds Got Worse
As we walked out a little before noon, the crowd had ballooned even more. There was a **long queue to get in**, and we couldn't imagine how much more crowded the actual grounds would be later in the day.
## Movie Theater Recovery
After our miserable experience at the Grand Palace, we did the only thing that made sense: **enjoyed a movie with a huge bowl of popcorn and almost a liter of icy Coke!** Sometimes you need air conditioning and mindless entertainment to recover from overwhelming tourist attractions.
*Have you visited the Grand Palace? What time did you go? Did you find it too crowded? Any tips for avoiding the masses? Share your Grand Palace experiences below!*
**The Grand Palace is undeniably stunning, but overtourism has made it a challenging experience. If we could do it again, we'd arrive at 8:15am sharp or honestly just skip it in favor of Bangkok's less-crowded but equally beautiful temples. Sometimes the most famous attraction isn't the most enjoyable!**
### Shopping in Bangkok: MBK Center and Emporium
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/shopping-bangkok
Location: Bangkok, Thailand
Date: 2017-11-26
**We spent the day relaxing by the hotel pool and shopping at some of Bangkok's best malls - including the upscale Emporium and the legendary bargain-hunter's paradise, MBK Center!**
## Pool Day and Air-Conditioned Shopping
After several days of intense sightseeing in Bangkok's heat, we needed a break. We started with a leisurely morning by the hotel pool, then ventured out to explore Bangkok's world-class shopping scene.
## The Emporium
We visited **The Emporium**, one of Bangkok's premier upscale shopping malls. Located on Sukhumvit Road and connected directly to the BTS Skytrain, it offers:
- **Luxury brands** - International designer stores
- **Thai designer boutiques** - Local high-end fashion
- **Gourmet supermarket** - Imported goods and specialty items
- **Excellent food court** - Both Thai and international cuisine
- **Cinema complex** - Perfect for escaping the heat
The air conditioning alone was worth the visit!
## MBK Center - Bargain Hunter's Paradise
We also explored **MBK Center** (Mah Boon Krong), Bangkok's most famous shopping mall for bargains. This massive 8-floor complex is legendary among budget travelers:
- **Electronics** - Phones, cameras, accessories (haggle hard!)
- **Clothing and accessories** - From cheap to mid-range
- **Souvenirs** - Thai silk, handicrafts, knock-offs
- **Phone repair** - Famous for quick, cheap fixes
- **Food court** - Cheap, delicious Thai food
The energy at MBK is chaotic and exciting - a completely different vibe from the upscale Emporium!
*Have you shopped in Bangkok? Which mall is your favorite - MBK, Emporium, Platinum, or Siam Paragon? Any bargaining tips? Share your Bangkok shopping experiences below!*
**Bangkok's shopping scene offers incredible variety - from luxury malls like Emporium to bargain paradise at MBK Center. Whether you're hunting for designer goods or haggling for cheap electronics, Bangkok delivers. Plus, the air-conditioned malls provide perfect respite from Thailand's tropical heat!**
### Last Day in Myanmar: Goodbye to the Golden Land
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/last-day-myanmar
Location: Yangon, Myanmar
Date: 2017-11-25
**We were leaving Myanmar after almost a month in one of Southeast Asia's last undiscovered gems. We loved what we saw and the experiences we had.**
## Myanmar Highlights We'll Never Forget
We'll remember for a long time:
- **The hot air balloon ride over Bagan** - floating above thousands of ancient temples at sunrise
- **The stunning sunset by U Bein Bridge** - the world's longest teak bridge at golden hour
- **The smiles of villagers** we crossed during our trek from Kalaw to Inle Lake
- **The postcard-perfect landscape of Hpa-An** - karst mountains, caves, and 400,000 bats
- **The golden glow of Shwedagon Pagoda** at sunset in Yangon
## Why Myanmar Captured Our Hearts
Myanmar in 2017 felt like Southeast Asia decades ago - before mass tourism transformed the region. The country offered:
- **Genuine warmth** from locals unused to Western tourists
- **Authentic experiences** without tourist traps or aggressive touts (mostly!)
- **Incredible value** - budget travel at its finest
- **Stunning landscapes** from temples to mountains to caves
- **Rich Buddhist culture** visible everywhere
- **Off-the-beaten-path adventure** - we often had attractions to ourselves
## Heading to Thailand
Tomorrow we fly to Bangkok, Thailand - transitioning from Myanmar's peaceful pace to Thailand's bustle and energy. While we're excited for Thai beaches, food, and islands, leaving Myanmar felt bittersweet.
Myanmar was special. We knew it was changing rapidly as tourism grew. We felt fortunate to experience it during this unique moment in its history - opened to the world but not yet overrun.
**Thank you, Myanmar. You exceeded every expectation!**
*Have you visited Myanmar? What were your favorite experiences? How did it compare to Thailand or other Southeast Asian countries? Share your Myanmar memories below!*
**Myanmar was the highlight of our Southeast Asia journey. The combination of stunning landscapes, rich culture, warm people, and that magical feeling of discovering somewhere still relatively untouched by mass tourism made it unforgettable. If you're considering Myanmar - go! You won't regret it.**
### Back to Yangon: Return to the Big City
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/back-yangon
Location: Yangon, Myanmar
Date: 2017-11-24
**We boarded a VIP bus from Hpa-An back to Yangon, Myanmar's former capital. We had the best bus ever - leather seats, onboard entertainment, and more space than we needed. But it still took almost the whole day.**
## The VIP Bus Experience
Not much exciting to tell you today - just a long travel day. But the **VIP bus** made it significantly more comfortable than standard Myanmar buses:
- **Leather reclining seats** with plenty of legroom
- **Onboard entertainment** (though movies were in Burmese!)
- **Air conditioning** (a blessing in Myanmar's heat)
- **Rest stops** every 2-3 hours
- **Smooth suspension** compared to regular buses
After days of adventure in Hpa-An's countryside, the long bus ride gave us time to rest, catch up on photos, and mentally prepare for our last day in Myanmar before flying to Thailand.
*Have you taken VIP buses in Myanmar? How do they compare to standard buses? Any bus company recommendations? Share your Myanmar transport experiences below!*
**Not every travel day can be an adventure - sometimes it's just about getting from Point A to Point B. The VIP bus made our return to Yangon comfortable enough that we arrived refreshed and ready for our final Myanmar day before heading to Thailand!**
### Hpa-An Adventures: Caves, Karsts, and 400,000 Bats
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/hpa-and-surrounding-countryside
Location: Hpa-An, Myanmar
Date: 2017-11-23
**We hired a motorbike to explore Hpa-An and the surrounding countryside early in the morning. More than once, we felt like we were on Isla Sorna - Jurassic Park fans will know what we're talking about! No dinosaurs, though. The only Jurassic creatures we saw were cockroaches.**
## Mount Zwegabin: 2,638 Steps to Heaven
We first headed south to **Mount Zwegabin** - the most dramatic karst formation sprouting abruptly from Hpa-An's flat landscape.
We started our ascent from the pleasant **Lumbini Gardens** (commonly known as Buddha Park), home to rows upon rows of hundreds of seated Buddha images. After **almost 2 hours and 2,638 uneven steps** (yeah, we counted them!), we reached the top at an elevation of **723 meters**.
With our legs still shaking, we explored the **monastery and pagodas** built on top of the hill. The **360-degree view over Hpa-An** was absolutely worth the climb! After eating half our Malaysian biscuits and drinking almost all our water, it was time to descend those 2,638 steps.
The trek down was physically easier but sometimes more challenging due to some **very high steps** - your knees will remember this hike!
## Saddan Cave: Through the Mountain
Next up was **Saddan Cave** (sometimes written Sadan or Saddar) - another major Hpa-An highlight. The massive limestone cave features:
- Enormous chambers
- Huge stalactites and stalagmites
- Buddha figures and relics throughout
- Small pagodas
- Sparkling disco lights (yes, really!)
We ventured deeper into the grotto. At the far end, we reached an opening leading to a **lake surrounded by rice fields** - the view was stunning! Breathtaking!
We crossed the bridge over the paddy fields and explored another smaller cave with no artificial lights. Using our iPhone flashlights, we kept exploring until the **bats' noise became too loud** - we didn't want to wake the entire colony!
## Boat Ride Through Paradise
We returned to the lake where **longtail boats** waited to ferry us back to the main cave entrance for only **1,500 Kyat** (about $1 USD) per person.
The ride was **absolutely magnificent**! After cruising under the mountain, we glided through an astonishing landscape. **Probably one of the best views we had in all of Myanmar** - dramatic limestone karsts rising from emerald rice fields, all from a traditional wooden boat.
## Ya Thay Pyan Cave
We jumped back on our scooter for a long ride to **Ya Thay Pyan Cave**. The cave itself was nice, but honestly, the **scooter ride** was the real highlight - Hpa-An's countryside is a **nature lover's paradise**!
## Linno Cave: The Bat Cave Spectacular
We finished our epic day at **Linno Cave** - commonly known as "the Bat Cave." This cave is home to **massive bat colonies totaling no less than 400,000 individuals**!
By sunset, all these creatures rush out of the cave through a small entrance to feed, creating a **spectacular natural phenomenon**. The stream of bats lasted 20-30 minutes - an endless living tornado of wings filling the sky. Absolutely mesmerizing!
*Have you visited Hpa-An? Did you climb Mount Zwegabin? Which cave was your favorite? Did you see the bat exodus at Linno Cave? Share your Myanmar adventure stories below!*
**Our day exploring Hpa-An's countryside ranks among our best travel days ever! From conquering Mount Zwegabin's 2,638 steps to boating through karst landscapes and witnessing nature's bat spectacle - this off-the-beaten-path Myanmar destination exceeded every expectation. If you're planning Myanmar, don't skip Hpa-An!**
### Yangon to Hpa-An: Journey to Karst Country
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/yangon-to-hpa-an
Location: Hpa-An, Myanmar
Date: 2017-11-22
**A 6-hour ride from Yangon to Hpa-An... fun, right? Well, it was worth it to reach this hidden gem!**
## Taxi Drama and Bus Journey
We started the day with an unpleasant taxi driver who tried to rip us off. Lesson learned: we should have used the **Grab app** - Southeast Asia's leading ride-hailing platform. The Uber-like app makes it simple, safe, and cheap to find good drivers.
The **6-hour bus ride to Hpa-An** followed - a long but scenic journey through Myanmar's countryside.
## Arriving in Hpa-An
We arrived in **Hpa-An**, a small, rural town and capital of **Karen State**. The charming village sits amid dramatic **karst formations and glorious mountains** - think Guilin, China, but without the crowds!
**Off the beaten path** for most tourists, Hpa-An was the perfect spot for wannabe backpackers like us. We couldn't wait to explore:
- Countryside hikes through rice paddies
- Huge caves transformed into Buddhist temples
- Dramatic karst landscapes
- Traditional Karen culture
## Settling In and Dinner
After refreshing at our guesthouse, [**Soe Brothers 2**](https://www.booking.com/hotel/mm/soe-brothers-2-guesthouse.en-gb.html?aid=1296479), we found a lovely restaurant called [**Veranda Cafe**](https://www.tripadvisor.com.sg/Restaurant_Review-g3601197-d7385165-Reviews-Veranda_Youth_Community_Cafe-Hpa_An_Kayin_State.html).
Beyond providing excellent food, they do amazing **community work with local women** - supporting employment and skills training. Supporting social enterprises like this felt good while eating delicious Myanmar cuisine!
## Evening by the Lake
With full bellies, we wandered along **Kan Thar Yar Lake** and explored the **night market** with our cameras. The sunset over the lake, with the magnificent **Mount Zwegabin** as a dramatic backdrop, was **postcard-perfect material**.
Tomorrow we'd explore those incredible caves and karst formations up close!
*Have you visited Hpa-An? How did you get there from Yangon? Which caves and attractions did you explore? Share your off-the-beaten-path Myanmar experiences below!*
**After the bustle of Yangon, Hpa-An felt like stepping into a different Myanmar - peaceful, rural, and stunningly beautiful. The dramatic karst landscapes promised incredible exploration tomorrow. We'd found our off-the-beaten-path paradise!**
### Yangon and the Shwedagon Pagoda: Myanmar's Golden Jewel
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/yangon-and-shwegadon-pagoda
Location: Yangon, Myanmar
Date: 2017-11-21
We woke up in Yangon (formerly Rangoon) - the former capital and still the economic and cultural center of Myanmar. Though the capital moved to Naypyidaw in 2005, Yangon remains the country's beating heart.
## A Different Myanmar Experience
We started by walking around randomly, and we immediately noticed a **completely different experience** compared to Bagan, Kalaw, Mandalay, and even touristic Inle Lake.
Traffic was heavy but organized. **Fast food restaurants** nestled within massive supermarkets. **Glass skyscrapers** rose alongside old crumbling colonial buildings - a fascinating juxtaposition of Myanmar's past and future.
## Downtown Yangon
We used the **Grab app** (yes, it works in Yangon!) to drive to downtown. We went on a shopping spree at the local **Bogyoke Aung San Market** near the majestic Holy Trinity Catholic Church. Then we crossed the road and ventured into the brand new, gigantic commercial complex - **Junction City** shopping mall.
The contrast was striking - traditional markets selling Burmese handicrafts just meters away from gleaming modern shopping centers with international brands!
## The Magnificent Shwedagon Pagoda
Later that day, we explored the famous **Shwedagon Pagoda** - Myanmar's most sacred Buddhist site. The religious building is a solid brick stupa **covered with gold and encrusted with hundreds of diamonds**. We walked clockwise (the traditional Buddhist way) as we marveled at the glistening gold of Yangon's biggest spiritual attraction.
## People Watching and Sunset
As the afternoon progressed, locals and tourists flocked to the Buddhist temple. We enjoyed our favorite activity: **people watching**!
- **Women** dressed in bright, elegant traditional dresses offered flowers to their divinities
- **Men** poured water on Buddha statues (a purification ritual)
- **Monks** meditated peacefully
- **Novices** (young monks) followed their teachers like Padawans following their Jedi
The **sunset was spectacular** - exactly as promised! As golden hour arrived, the already golden pagoda seemed to glow with an otherworldly light. **If you come to Yangon, don't miss sunset at Shwedagon Pagoda!**
*Have you visited Yangon and Shwedagon Pagoda? What time of day did you go? Did you explore the colonial downtown? Share your Myanmar experiences below!*
**Yangon exceeded our expectations! The contrast between crumbling colonial buildings and modern skyscrapers, traditional markets and contemporary malls, created a fascinating urban landscape. But the true star was Shwedagon Pagoda at sunset - a spiritual and visual experience we'll never forget!**
### Nyaung Shwe to Yangon
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/nyaung-shwe-yangon
Location: Yangon, Myanmar
Date: 2017-11-20
We were already leaving Nyaung Shwe as there wasn't much to do apart from restaurants, bars, stray dogs and rushing motorbikes. Inle Lake was the main event after all.
We boarded a VIP bus to Yangon, the largest city in Myanmar and economic and cultural capital. The bus was extremely comfortable which make the long journey more bearable!
VIP Bus: Highly recommended for long journeys in Myanmar. Extremely comfortable with reclining seats, air conditioning, and sometimes onboard entertainment."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "The journey from Nyaung Shwe to Yangon takes approximately 10-12 hours. Book overnight buses to save on accommodation costs."
},
{
icon: "Banknote",
text: "VIP bus tickets typically cost between 15,000-25,000 kyat depending on the company and season."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Yangon is Myanmar's largest city and former capital. Though the capital moved to Naypyidaw in 2005, Yangon remains the country's economic and cultural heart."
}
]}
/>
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*Have you traveled by VIP bus in Myanmar? What was your experience? Are you planning to visit Yangon? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
### Last day on Inle Lake
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/last-day-inle-lake
Location: Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar
Date: 2017-11-19
After feasting on Inle resort massive breakfast, and cooling off at the crystal clear swimming pool, we jumped in our boat for a last boat ride on the Inle Lake. Our private boat drove us around Inle Lake passing floating gardens where locals mainly grew tomatoes, cucumbers and gourds. The tomatoes of Inle Lake were allegedly the finest in Myanmar.
We came close to fishermen paddling in the distinctive standing position with one foot wrapped around the paddle as they were dropping their fishnets. The fishermen were working together to catch more fishes.
We also encountered fake fishermen. What on earth are we talking about? Fishermen dressed up and perched on the end of their boats balancing on one leg with their nets in hand aren't taking any fish anymore. The show is only for tourist and they will make sure to collect their money if you dare to snap a picture of them.
We ventured into the stilt-house villages from where our driver was from. The scenery was stunning. We left the main lake behind and passed through a series of canals flanked by houses, a post office, shops, cafe, schools, and the occasional pagoda.
Beware of 'fake fishermen': Some fishermen pose for photos and will demand payment if you take their picture. Real fishermen are working and won't pose for tourists."
},
{
icon: "Boat",
text: "Private boat tours allow you to explore at your own pace. Expect to pay around 15,000-20,000 kyat for a full day tour."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Don't miss the stilt-house villages - they offer a glimpse into authentic lake life away from the main tourist areas."
},
{
icon: "Sunrise",
text: "Best time for photography is early morning when the light is soft and fishermen are actively working."
}
]}
/>
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*Have you visited Inle Lake? Did you encounter the fake fishermen? What was your favorite part of exploring the lake? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
### Inle Resort and Spa
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/inle-resort-and-spa
Location: Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar
Date: 2017-11-18
After three days trekking from Kalaw, we pampered ourselves at the Inle Resort and Spa. The location of the hotel was perfect on the Lake and only 11 kilometres from Nyaungshwe that you could reach by bicycle or tuk-tuk.
As it was already late - yeah we enjoyed too much the comfortable beds and refreshing swimming pool - we set off in a tuk-tuk to get a last beer with Jonathan and Lisa, the French couple we met during our trek. We ended up finishing 4 bottles of Myanmar beer.
Around 8 pm, they left us to continue their trip to Bagan, and we walked towards the restaurant they had recommended us, Paw Paw's. The menu wasn't large, but the food was excellent. Moreover, the dishes were prepared by underprivileged kids working on a program to develop their skills and confidence. We fully recommend this place!
We were lucky with the timing of our visit as it fell right during a festival held for the first time in town. Tribes from nearby villages were coming for the night to demonstrate their skills at singing, dancing and performing on stage. Nyaungshwe centre was busting with parades and people flocking to admire the show.
## Where to Stay
## Local Dining
Paw Paw's Restaurant: Excellent food with a social mission. Dishes are prepared by underprivileged kids working on a program to develop their skills and confidence. Limited menu but outstanding quality. Highly recommended!"
},
{
icon: "Beer",
text: "Myanmar beer is widely available and pairs perfectly with local cuisine. Expect to pay 2000-2500 kyat per bottle."
}
]}
/>
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*Have you stayed at Inle Resort and Spa? Did you visit Paw Paw's restaurant? Have you experienced any local festivals in Myanmar? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
### Inle Lake to Kalaw - Day 3/3
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/inle-lake-kalaw-day-3
Location: Nyaung Shwe, Myanmar
Date: 2017-11-17
Day: 3
We woke up after a good night sleep and ready for the last 16 kilometres of our 3-day hike from Kalaw to Inle Lake. We had pancakes for breakfast which made everyone on in a good mood despite the early hour. We set out into a mist of fog for only a half day trekking.
We passed by villages, paid the entry fee for Inle Lake, and started our slow descent to Inle Lake. The last section was very muddy but soon we were able to see Inle Lake from the distance. After another 30 minutes or so, we finally arrived at the last village where we had a fresh and tasty lunch.
The walking part of this trip was coming to an end with the awaited boat ride to Inle Lake. After another delicious and copious meal, we jumped on a longboat to take a ride from the southern floating farms to the northern town of Nyaungshwe.
The longboat was very narrow, so we all sat in single file, all facing in the same direction. We had the feeling it would capsize at any moment. We puttered down the canal and went onto Inle Lake. We cruised past a number of older rich tourists making the same journey as us and it felt a bit like being in a procession. Having spent three days trekking through small local villages, this was quite a contrast. It felt weird.
Inle Lake is overcrowded and touristic. 20 years ago only three hotels around the lake were accommodation the rare backpacker. Today over 20 high-class resort hotels dotted the lake. The water level is dropping every year, and the water is getting dirtier. We hope things will improve or you will see a KFC in the middle of the lake in no time.
## Workshop Tours
We agreed to pay an extra 3000 kyats to visit workshops during the afternoon before being drop at our hotels and being rewarded by a hot shower. Our first stop was a silver making factory. Surprisingly, though tourist attractions, we did not feel pressured to buy any products; we were only given a brief tour and description of the products no high-pressure sales pitches. Nevertheless, Kro and Lisa couldn't resist the jewels attraction and bought earrings and a necklace. Girls and jewellery! Not a cheap combination.
Next up was the lotus fibre weavers who extracted the delicate fibres from the lotus stem to make a thread. Using traditional methods, a simple scarf will require over 4000 lotus. Even though the plants grow in abundance in Inle Lake, the task was excruciating explaining the high price of the garments.
The Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda was up next. Not much to say about that pagoda. It's on the lake, it's nice but we have seen so many already.
We stopped at a shop with 'Long Neck Women' also known as The Paduang. This made us all fell a bit uncomfortable as they were displayed for the sole purpose of tourists. The three women - which have been there for years now - aren't from the Inle Lake area. We didn't like that kind of exhibition but before leaving Kro spoke with them. Only one, the youngest, could speak a decent English.
These women were coming from the mountains of Myanmar's Kayah State. They were sitting all day weaving, waiting for tourists to take the perfect self and hoping to make sales. Not sure who gets most of the money though... They started wearing rings of bronze coils around their neck around the age of 10 and added more as they grew older. The Paduang can stop whenever they want but feel more beautiful the more rings they have. The tradition slowly disappeared and is frowned upon by the Burmese government. The tradition would most likely disappear if it wasn't for the tourist.
By the time evening rolled around we were heading to the hotel, the Inle resort which was right on the Inle Lake. The lighting was wonderful. The sunset was terrific. Best way to finish our three days trekking from Kalaw to Inle Lake.
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*Have you visited Inle Lake? Did you see the Long Neck Women? What did you think about the workshop tours? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
### Inle Lake to Kalaw - Day 2/3
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/inle-lake-kalaw-day-2
Location: Kalaw, Myanmar
Date: 2017-11-16
Day: 2
We woke up at 6:30 after a restless night on a paper thin mattress lay down on the upper level of the guide's house. A cat slept next to David's head who is suffering from allergies. The pigs made weird sounds during the night. Water was dripping from our mosquitoes net due to condensation. The mattress wasn't very comfortable and temperatures dropped heavily during the night. Nevertheless, we made it through our first night in a remote village in Myanmar and were happy to experience what locals live every single day of the year.
A big barrel of water was available to take a quick cold shower but we barely splashed ourselves. We ate a delicious breakfast prepared by our very own chef. Our guide, Hlo Paw was already chewing Kwun-ya (word for paan in Myanmar). The preparation contained parcels of areca nuts, opium seeds, lime and tobacco wrapped in a betel leaf. He explained us the program for our second-day trekking to Inle Lake. Today was going to be the most difficult day: more kilometres to walk, a lot of up and down and heavy rains had turned the trail into a muddy mess.
The rainy season wasn't over yet! Nevertheless, November remained a good month for the trek as the temperature is hot but bearable and the scenery is full of green, yellow colours.
At the end, the day ended up being the best and more interesting day of our trek. The weather was gorgeous. The guide was in a superb mood. The scenery was brilliant and postcard material. The villages we passed by were charming and the locals were adorable. The people of Myanmar are the friendliest of all the Asian countries we had visited so far.
We continued our walk under the scorching sun until lunch time. As always we had too much of too delicious food cooked by our chef. We must have put on some weight during the trek which wasn't expected.
After a long day, we arrived at the village where we would sleep in. Once again, we were served a delicious dinner but not before we bought a few beers and drunk them up admiring the sunset.
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*Did you experience similar challenges on your first night in a village homestay? Which day was your favorite during the trek? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
### Inle Lake to Kalaw - Day 1/3
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/inle-lake-kalaw
Location: Kalaw, Myanmar
Date: 2017-11-15
Day: 1
We started our trek from Kalaw to Inle Lake, a classic on the backpacking circuit in Myanmar. So don't expect to be alone on this adventure.
The guide, Hla Soe, was waiting for us with a French couple, Jonathan and Lisa, who end up being funny, great people and very easy going. We had such a great time with them that it made our hike a complete success. One of the best experience we had in Myanmar.
We paid 52 dollars each for the 3-days hike including the guide, all the meals, tea and coffee, basic accommodations in the villages, luggage transfer between hotels, a boat ride from the south of Inle Lake to Nyaungshwe and free unlimited cold showers. The more you have in the group, the cheaper is become, but we found 4 people to be the perfect number. 52 USD was a bargain anyway, and we practically saved money by being on this adventure. We paid for the beers, soft drinks and bottled water but the prices were reasonable.
Unfortunately, the weather was bad, and it was pouring down until lunch. Equipped with our raincoats, we walked without really enjoying the views - as there was no view to admire. For lunch, we had chapati with curry at a hilltop restaurant with no visibility on what was supposed to be the perfect viewpoint. Indeed, it was still pouring down, and we were struggling to keep warm.
And then, the rain stopped, and the sky cleared up in minutes. We could eventually enjoy the spectacular views of the valleys, mountains and villages below from our panoramic viewpoint.
With a full belly, we kept on walking passing through hill tribe villages, rice paddies fields, vegetables and chilli gardens and a number of schools. The guide was knowledgeable, genuine and playful. He would stop and talk with the locals and Kro met kids from the different schools.
We continued on, walking on train tracks for a while until we reached a train station for another break. We got off the train tracks and walked on dirt roads until we reached the village where we would stay for the night.
We slept at the guide home and met his wife and kids. The cook also joined us to prepare a delicious dinner with so many dishes including French Belgian fries - David's favourite meal! We drank four bottles of Myanmar beer with our new road companions hoping to have a good night sleep.
## Practical Information
Pack light! You'll carry your bag for three days. The heavier your pack, the harder the trek becomes."
},
{
icon: "ShoppingBag",
text: "Good walking shoes (muddy and slippery conditions), 3 pairs of socks (wet feet are miserable), 2-3 shirts, convertible pants, warm clothes for freezing evenings"
},
{
icon: "Lightbulb",
text: "Headlamp for dark showers and nighttime bathroom trips, towel for cold showers, toiletries, first aid kit (band-aids, ibuprofen, anti-itch cream)"
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Water bottle (bottled water available during breaks at 300-500 kyat), hand sanitizer, wet wipes, toilet paper, sunscreen, mosquito repellent (helps with leeches too)"
},
{
icon: "CloudRain",
text: "Poncho or raincoat - tropical rain can happen anytime in Myanmar"
},
{
icon: "Banknote",
text: "Cash for tips, snacks, bottled water, and beers along the way. Water: 300-500 kyat, Beer: 2000-2500 kyat"
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Good camera to capture the stunning landscapes and village life"
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Optional: Sleeping bag liner, mosquito net (not always provided), umbrella for sun protection"
}
]}
/>
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*Have you done the Kalaw to Inle Lake trek? Which trekking company did you use? How many days did you hike for? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
### Kalaw
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/kalaw
Location: Kalaw, Myanmar
Date: 2017-11-14
We ventured in Kalaw to look for an ATM and visit the caves. Little did we know that tropical rain would change our plans completely.
All of a sudden it rained. Pouring down. We were stranded outside near a hairdresser and a cave. So that's what we did. David got a haircut for less than 2 USD and we explored the cave with hundreds of Buddha figures until the rain stopped, almost 3 hours later.
The cave turned out to be a blessing in disguise - filled with countless Buddha statues, it offered both shelter and an unexpected cultural experience. We spent time photographing the statues, chatting with locals also waiting out the storm, and watching the rain create rivers in the streets outside.
## Preparing for the Trek
As we were hiking the next day, we became anxious about the trek and whether we should postpone it. We maintained the adventure but we needed to buy raincoats. Luckily tropical rains are no stranger to the locals and plastic raincoats were available at every shop. We got blue ones.
We headed back to the hotel for a good night sleep to charge our batteries before our trek to Inle Lake.
ATMs: Limited ATMs in Kalaw - withdraw cash when you find one! Most trekking companies and local shops prefer cash. Myanmar kyat is the main currency."
},
{
icon: "Scissors",
text: "Local services: Haircuts are incredibly cheap (~2 USD). Local barbers provide great service and it's a fun cultural experience while waiting out rain!"
},
{
icon: "CloudRain",
text: "Tropical rain: Even in 'dry season,' sudden heavy rains can occur. Always carry a raincoat or poncho. Storms can last 2-3 hours. Plastic raincoats available at every shop for ~1,000 kyat."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Cave with Buddhas: Perfect rainy day activity! Multiple caves around Kalaw filled with Buddha statues. Free entry, donations appreciated. Great shelter during storms."
},
{
icon: "Backpack",
text: "Trek preparation: Buy supplies in Kalaw before trekking (raincoats, snacks, water, toiletries). Shops well-stocked with trekking essentials. See our Day 1 trek diary for complete packing list!"
},
{
icon: "Hotel",
text: "Rest well: The 3-day Kalaw to Inle Lake trek is challenging. Get a good night's sleep before starting. Most hotels are budget-friendly and comfortable."
}
]}
/>
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*Have you been caught in tropical rain in Myanmar? Did you do the Kalaw to Inle Lake trek? What's your advice for handling unexpected weather while traveling? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
### Hot Air Balloons from the ground
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/hot-air-balloons-ground
Location: Bagan, Myanmar
Date: 2017-11-13
We woke up early to admire the hot air balloons we rode the day before over the Bagan Temples. The view was majestic, especially knowing we were flying one of those balloons just yesterday.
There's something magical about watching the balloons from the ground after experiencing the flight yourself. Seeing all 21 colorful balloons rise into the dawn sky over the ancient temples brought back all the emotions from our own journey.
## Temple Hopping
Later on, we visited a few more or less popular pagodas like the Shwezigon, the Manuha and the Apeyadana with its wonderful painting inside. Each temple offered its own unique character and stories, adding layers to our understanding of Bagan's rich Buddhist heritage.
## Journey to Kalaw
It was already time to leave for Inle Lake but not before stopping at Kalaw. We were not taking the easy road to the lake. Instead, we opted for a 3 days trek from Kalaw to Inle Lake - an adventure that would take us through Myanmar's stunning hill tribe villages.
After a bus, plane and taxi, we settled in at our hotel in Kalaw, excited for the trek ahead.
Must-visit temples: Shwezigon Pagoda (gold-plated stupa), Manuha Temple (reclining Buddha), Apeyadana Temple (beautiful interior paintings). Each offers unique perspectives on Bagan's religious art."
},
{
icon: "Sunrise",
text: "Balloon viewing: Wake up early to watch balloons launch from ground level. Best viewing spots are near popular temples. Seeing them after your own flight makes it even more special!"
},
{
icon: "Bus",
text: "Getting to Kalaw: Multi-leg journey via bus, plane, and taxi. Plan for a full day of travel. Kalaw is a popular starting point for trekking to Inle Lake."
},
{
icon: "Backpack",
text: "Prepare for trekking: Once in Kalaw, organize your trek, buy supplies, and rest well. The 3-day Kalaw to Inle Lake trek is one of Myanmar's best hiking experiences."
}
]}
/>
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*Did you watch the balloons from the ground? Which temples were your favorites in Bagan? Are you planning to trek from Kalaw to Inle Lake? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
### Hot Air Ballooning over Bagan temples
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/hot-air-ballooning-over-bagan-temples
Location: Bagan, Myanmar
Date: 2017-11-12
Riding a hot air balloon over the temples in Bagan was the highlight of our trip in Myanmar. The balloons over Bagan are expensive but worth every penny. Here are the details of this incredible adventure.
**J-4:** We bought 2 tickets for the famous hot air balloon ride over the Old Bagan with 'Oriental Ballooning Bagan'. We were lucky to find seats available. Despite the huge price at around 400 USD, tickets book up quickly. The 2 other companies "Balloons over Bagan" or "Golden Eagle" were also sold out. Only 3 companies flew balloons over Bagan: the Golden Eagles with three yellow balloons, "Balloons over Bagan" with 12 red balloons and Oriental Ballooning Bagan with 6 green ones.
**J-1:** We received a phone call from 'Oriental Ballooning Bagan' to confirm the flight. We knew cancellation happened from time to time when the weather conditions were not optimal for flying. The weather is less predictable at the beginning and end of the season. November is the best time.
## The Big Day
**J day at 4 am:** We woke up, showered and brushed our teeth. We were ready and overly excited for our sunrise balloon trip over Bagan.
**4:45:** The balloon minivan promptly picked us with another Australian lady from the hotel. The adventure was about to begin.
**5:11:** We drove to New Bagan where 6 more fellow passengers joined us for our hot air balloon in Bagan.
**5:13:** Last stop before being transported to the launch field. The last 3 persons hopped on board the minivan.
**5:35:** We arrived at the launch site near the Bagan Nyaung golf. We were greeted by tea, coffee, cookies and French pastries. The pilots had just launched two helium balloons to judge the wind direction and they seemed confident. We would fly today!
**5:46:** The last minivan arrived in the dark pitch field all settled with tables and chairs. The breakfast continued. The 72 passengers were then split into 6 groups and assigned a balloon and obviously a pilot. Our British pilot was Piers. All pilots were European.
**5:57:** Piers, who had flown in Bagan since 2004, gave us a short introduction and the last chance to hit the loo.
**6:01:** We were invited to reach our green balloon. The basket was still on its side, and the envelope was laid down flat on the floor. Piers gave us a quick safety briefing. Basically which position to adopt for taking off and landing.
**6:05:** The crew kicked into action by blowing cold air with the use of a powerful fan to establish the basic shape of the balloon. Piers went inside the balloon to check the envelope. We could see from a distance the 2 others companies actively preparing their own balloons. That's the beauty of the ride over Bagan. You'll fly surrounded by 20 other balloons.
**6:12:** 21 Balloons were warmed up by the propane burners. In minutes the 21 hot air balloons, the maximum authorised by the Burmese government, were ready to take off.
**6:18:** We safely climbed into the basket split into 4 compartments for 3 people. The nacelle was big enough to accommodate 16 but Oriental ballooning limited them to 12 passengers to provide a more comfortable experience. Our balloon named KT and made in Bristol was brand new. Just one week old. It was reassuring to know that all the equipment were in fact made from England and severely controlled.
**6:25:** We sat in our safety position and lurched smoothly off the ground. At 2 or 3 meters from the ground, we could stand up and waved to the smiling crew as they were becoming smaller and smaller. We slowly drifted South over the temples, rural villages, brick factories, rivers and green fields. Only the occasional burst of flame from the burners overhead was breaking the peaceful and calm atmosphere of the ride. From time to time Piers would point out temples and explain us their stories. But to be honest, we just loved too much the birds-eye view of mystical Bagan and didn't pay much attention to Piers explanation... Sorry, Piers!
**7:05:** The three golden eagles balloons were the first to land after a 40 minutes ride. We still had another 15 minutes as our landing site was beyond the villages. Piers was manoeuvring the balloon from high in the sky and fairly low to the ground. We could see farmers working in their fields or children waving at us, probably dreaming to flight one day over Bagan.
**7:20:** Piers asked us to practice the 'landing position'. We knew the flight was coming to an end.
**7:25:** We safely touched down with a soft bump in the landing field. The direction and duration of balloon flights dependent on the wind and on the weather conditions. Today they were optimal and we flew for just over an hour. Life is all about the moments that take your breath away and this was one of them. Damn, that was so good.
**7:33:** The crew serves us the traditional champagne and fruits to celebrate one of the most magical moments we were lucky enough to experience.
**7:55:** Back in the minivan, the head full of memories, we returned to our hotel.
**8:25:** We were back in our bed with surreal and spectacular images to fuel our dreams.
We spent the rest of the day biking through the Bagan and climbed temples finding secret passages. What a day!
## Practical Information
Best season: October to March. November is optimal - Bagan is still green, winds are moderate, and conditions are most predictable. Weather is less reliable at season start/end."
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Price (2017): ~$400 USD per person. Expensive but worth every penny! Includes hotel transfers, pre-flight coffee/tea & pastries, post-flight champagne & snacks, and flight certificate."
},
{
icon: "CalendarCheck",
text: "Book ahead! Only 3 companies operate (max 21 balloons daily by government regulation). Spaces are extremely limited and sell out weeks in advance, especially in November."
},
{
icon: "Hotel",
text: "Three companies: Oriental Ballooning Bagan (6 green balloons, 12 passengers max), Balloons over Bagan (12 red balloons), Golden Eagle (3 yellow balloons). All fly from same field and follow similar routes determined by wind."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Schedule: 4:45am hotel pickup, 5:35am arrival at launch site with breakfast, 6:25am takeoff, ~1 hour flight, 8:25am back at hotel. Perfect timing to rest before afternoon temple exploring!"
},
{
icon: "AlertTriangle",
text: "Weather cancellations: Expect a confirmation call 1 day before. Flights cancel if conditions aren't optimal. Companies reschedule or refund if cancelled."
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Facilities: Basic toilets available at launch site (important for 4am wake-ups!). Multiple opportunities to use them before flight."
},
{
icon: "Shield",
text: "Safety: All equipment imported from Europe (baskets, ropes, envelopes). European pilots with years of experience. New balloons regularly introduced. Very safe operation with excellent safety record."
},
{
icon: "Wind",
text: "Flight details: Wind determines route and duration. Typical flight: 40-60 minutes over temples, villages, and fields. You'll fly with ~20 other colorful balloons - spectacular sight!"
},
{
icon: "Award",
text: "Included perks: Flight certificate signed by pilot, professional photos available for purchase, champagne toast, and memories that last a lifetime!"
}
]}
/>
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*Have you done a hot air balloon ride over Bagan? Which company did you use? Was it worth the price? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
### Relaxing by the pool
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/relaxing-pool
Location: Bagan, Myanmar
Date: 2017-11-11
Relaxing by the pool. Not much to say today but look what we need for our next day!
Sometimes the best travel days are the quiet ones. After days of temple exploring, we took time to rest, swim, and mentally prepare for tomorrow's incredible hot air balloon adventure over the ancient temples of Bagan.
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*Do you take rest days while traveling? How do you balance adventure with downtime? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
### Magical Bagan
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/magical-bagan
Location: Bagan, Myanmar
Date: 2017-11-10
We rented next door to our hotel an electric bike. Everyone call them e-bikes. At a cost of 9000K (£5, 7USD), we cruised freely amongst over 2000 pagodas of all styles, sizes and various states of disrepair with some dating back to the 11th century.
We explored famous temples spread over the old Bagan including the Ananda Pahto Temple, the Dhammayangyi Temple, the Sulamani Temple, and the Shwegugyi Temple. We also got lost and found deserted ruins where most tourists will never even get close to. That was the most amusing part of the adventure.
The sacred pagodas and beautiful temples were scattered across the plains of Bagan creating a mystical and striking landscape. We saw a lot of them. Most didn't have a name. Just a number.
## Finding the Perfect Sunset Spot
Most of the iconic photographs of the town were taken at sunrise or sunset with the ancient monuments silhouetted against the mountains in the backdrop. So we spent most of the day looking for the most secluded and best spot for the night. Following the August 2016 earthquake, the majority of temples and pagodas were closed due to the enormous damage they suffered. Therefore, it was difficult to find a building where we were allowed to climb on.
Luckily we found the Bulethi temple. We sat, relaxed and took in the panoramic views of endless stupas stretching off to the horizon with the sunset as background.
Rent an e-bike! Best way to explore Bagan freely. Cost: 9,000 kyat (~$7 USD/day). Available at most hotels and rental shops. Range covers entire archaeological zone."
},
{
icon: "Sunrise",
text: "Wake up early: Sunrise is magical in Bagan. Hot air balloons float overhead as golden light illuminates thousands of temples. Worth the 5am wake-up!"
},
{
icon: "Sandals",
text: "Wear flip-flops: You'll remove shoes constantly at temple entrances. Flip-flops are most practical. Ground gets HOT - watch your step on sandy areas!"
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Water essential: Bring plenty! Temperatures can reach 34°C (93°F). Limited shops between temples. Stay hydrated or you'll suffer."
},
{
icon: "Route",
text: "Get lost! Don't just visit famous temples. Take small dirt trails - you never know where you'll end up. Best discoveries are off the beaten path."
},
{
icon: "AlertTriangle",
text: "Post-2016 earthquake: Many temples closed for safety after earthquake damage. Don't climb closed temples - respect barriers. Ask locals for open viewpoints."
},
{
icon: "Ticket",
text: "Entry fee (2017): $20 USD or 25,000 kyat per person for entire archaeological zone. Valid multiple days. Checkpoints at main temples. Keep ticket with you!"
},
{
icon: "Mountain",
text: "Sunset spots: Find viewing temple early in day. Bulethi temple offers excellent panoramic views. Get there 1-2 hours before sunset for best position."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Photography: Bring good camera and extra batteries. Sunrise/sunset are prime photo times. Silhouettes of temples against mountains are iconic shots."
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Famous temples: Don't miss Ananda Pahto, Dhammayangyi (largest), Sulamani, and Shwegugyi. But numbered temples often have fewer crowds and equal beauty!"
}
]}
/>
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*Have you explored Bagan? Did you rent an e-bike? Which temple was your favorite? Did you find a good sunset viewing spot? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
### Irrawaddy River cruise: from Mandalay to Bagan
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/irrawaddy-river-cruise-mandalay-bagan
Location: Irrawaddy River, Myanmar
Date: 2017-11-09
We took a river cruise down the Irrawaddy from Mandalay to Bagan - trading the roads for the legendary river that flows through the heart of Myanmar.
The Irrawaddy River has been Myanmar's lifeline for centuries, connecting cities, villages, and cultures along its winding path. Our journey from Mandalay to Bagan offered a completely different perspective of the country - one of slow-paced beauty, riverside life, and endless horizons.
As we departed Mandalay, the city's bustling energy gradually faded, replaced by the tranquil rhythm of river life. Small villages dotted the riverbanks, their golden pagodas glinting in the sunlight. Fishermen cast their nets from traditional boats, and farmers tended fields that stretched to distant mountains.
The cruise itself was a meditative experience. Unlike the rushed pace of modern travel, the river forces you to slow down, to observe, to simply be present. Hours passed watching the landscape transform - dense jungle giving way to open plains, occasional temples emerging from the greenery, children waving from sandy beaches.
As we approached Bagan, the first temples began to appear on the horizon. Gradually, more and more stupas revealed themselves, until we realized we were entering one of the world's most spectacular archaeological zones. The anticipation built with every passing temple, preparing us for the magic that awaited in Bagan.
Journey time: Mandalay to Bagan takes approximately 10-12 hours by river. Start early morning to arrive before sunset and enjoy daylight views."
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Cost (2017): Around $45 USD for standard deck tickets. Private cabins available at higher prices. Much cheaper than flying but slower pace."
},
{
icon: "Sunrise",
text: "Best views: Sit on upper deck for panoramic river views. Bring sunscreen and hat - minimal shade available. Morning light is spectacular for photography."
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Food & drinks: Basic meals usually included or available for purchase. Bring snacks and bottled water as backup. Tea and coffee typically served."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Photography: Don't miss riverside villages, fishing boats, golden pagodas, and the first glimpse of Bagan temples. Keep camera ready - best moments happen unexpectedly!"
},
{
icon: "AlertTriangle",
text: "Important: River levels vary seasonally. During dry season (Nov-May) service is more reliable. Wet season may see schedule changes or cancellations."
},
{
icon: "Backpack",
text: "What to bring: Sunscreen, hat, sunglasses, camera, snacks, water, book/entertainment (it's a long journey!), light jacket for evening breeze."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Alternative: If time is tight, buses and flights also connect Mandalay-Bagan. River cruise is for those who value journey over speed!"
}
]}
/>
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*Have you taken the Irrawaddy River cruise? Would you recommend it over flying or bus? What were your favorite moments? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
### Sagaing, Inwa and Amarapura
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/sagaing-inwa-and-amarapura
Location: Mandalay, Myanmar
Date: 2017-11-08
A must do in Mandalay is exploring the three main areas located on the outskirt of the city: Sagaing, Inwa (locally known as Ava) and Amarapura.
Most tourist book a private tour for the three ancient cities. As for us, a better way to learn about Myanmar culture and tradition, and a better way to explore these places of interest was to rent a scooter. We didn't regret our choice. We didn't want to join the touristic trail of taxi-monastery-boat-horse-drawn-carriage-temples-u-bein-bridge-taxi.
## The Ride to Sagaing
We rode for almost two hours stopping regularly to admire the scenery. We passed Amarapura and its magnificent lake. Further down, we drove up to Sagaing and Sagaing hill. We entered the U Min Thonze Caves. The name was a bit misleading as there are no caves but "just" a temple with dozen statues of Buddha aligned in a row along a crescent-shaped hallway. The panoramic view of the golden stupas dotting the Sagaing hills was worth the effort to have come so far though.
## Inwa: An Island of Ruins
We jumped back on the scooter and set off for Inwa, an artificial island full of crumbling ruins and charming inhabitants. We skipped the boat by driving further south to cross the Inwa bridge. We saved a few bucks on the ferry. Thank 'scooter'. Then we got lost in Inwa and its intriguing traditional rural villages. We came across so many smiles from the locals that we fell in love with the place.
Eventually, we joined the hordes of tourists being dragged from one place to another. Thanks to our scooter, we were free to go where we wanted. We still visited two of the main attractions. The Maha Aung Mye Bon San monastery which was designed as a stucco-covered brick replica of typical wooden monasteries of the age and a rare survivor from the Ava era. And, the Bagaya monastery which was a splendid piece of craft. Both places were stunning but overcrowded by tourists. Luckily, we were on a motorbike and we could wander off the beaten track.
## U Bein Bridge at Sunset
We finished the day by the must-see U Bein Bridge, one of the most photographed sites in Myanmar. The world's longest teak footbridge stretches out for over a kilometre long across the shallow Thaungthaman Lake. We walked on and under the bridge and found a perfect spot to admire the dramatic sunset.
Rent a scooter! Best way to explore with freedom. Skip the touristy taxi-boat-horse-carriage circuit. Scooter rentals available in Mandalay (~$10-15/day). International driving license recommended."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Three cities route: Start with Amarapura (beautiful lake), then Sagaing (golden stupas on hills), finally Inwa (rural island with ruins). Plan for full day (~80km total)."
},
{
icon: "Mountain",
text: "Sagaing Hill: U Min Thonze temple with crescent-shaped hallway of Buddha statues. Panoramic views of golden stupas. Not actually caves despite the name!"
},
{
icon: "Hotel",
text: "Inwa highlights: Maha Aung Mye Bon San monastery (brick replica of wooden monasteries) and Bagaya monastery (stunning teak craftsmanship). Can be crowded - scooter lets you escape tourist groups!"
},
{
icon: "Boat",
text: "Skip Inwa ferry: Drive south on scooter to cross Inwa bridge instead. Saves money and time. Locals are incredibly friendly - you'll get many smiles!"
},
{
icon: "Sunrise",
text: "U Bein Bridge sunset: World's longest teak footbridge (1.2km). Most photographed spot in Myanmar. Arrive early to find good sunset viewing spot. Walk on AND under the bridge for different perspectives."
},
{
icon: "Route",
text: "Getting lost is good: Wander off the beaten path in Inwa's rural villages. Some of the best experiences come from unplanned discoveries and local encounters!"
},
{
icon: "Fuel",
text: "Fuel up: Fill your scooter tank before leaving Mandalay. Gas stations available but not frequent. Bring water and sunscreen - it gets hot!"
}
]}
/>
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*Have you explored Sagaing, Inwa and Amarapura? Did you rent a scooter or join a tour? Did you watch sunset at U Bein Bridge? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
### One day in Mandalay
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/one-day-mandalay
Location: Mandalay, Myanmar
Date: 2017-11-07
We slept well in the quiet Downtown @mandalay hotel for our first night in Myanmar. After a light breakfast - including Nutella, we returned to the phone company to buy an Ooredoo SIM card for Kro. The WiFi was extremely slow and patchy at the hotel (like in most hotels in Myanmar) and a 3G/4G connection was the best and only way to "stay on the line".
Armed with good walking shoes and a loaded Google map, we explored the main sights within Mandalay, the second largest city in Myanmar. On second thoughts, we should have rented bicycles as the distances were quite long. So, if you are reading this and you are in Mandalay, go get that bicycle!
## Walking the Moat
Anyway, we strolled east along the clutter free sidewalk surrounding the moat encircling the Grand Palace. We skipped the palace. Foreigners can only enter the attraction by the east entrance and must pay a fee. We didn't want to. So we kept walking toward the temples.
## Golden Monastery
Shwe Nan Daw Kyaung, also know as the Golden monastery was the first on the list. The palace is one of the rare building which survived the Second World War destruction. The monastery was originally part of the palace complex of Amarapura and was shifted to Mandalay to become the royal apartment of King Mindon. The finely carved teak wooden monastery was stunning, particularly the interior carvings.
Next up was the monastery formally known as Maha-Atula-Waiyan and commonly known as Atumashi. Nice architecture but was missing the wow factor.
## The World's Largest Book
We left for the Kuthodaw Pagoda, one of the most attractive and popular destinations in Mandalay. The building was interesting as it houses the worlds largest book. So we went looking for that enormous book. We looked everywhere but we couldn't find it. Was that book still around? How could we miss the largest book on earth? The reason was simple. We were in the middle of it. Let us explain. The book consisted of 729 marble slabs with teachings from the Buddha. Each page was about 1.5 metre by 1.1 metre and 14 centimetres thick. And each page was preserved in one the 729 identical whitewashed stupas. Genius!
As we were flipping through that peculiar book, we received a Thanaka treatment, a yellowish-white cosmetic paste made from the bark of the Thanaka plant. The cosmetic powder has been used for over 2000 years by all women in Myanmar. Men rarely use it. Only foreigners like us do.
## Puppet Show
After washing off the powder from our faces, we finished the day with the famous Mandalay Puppet Show. A word of advice. Book early to get the best seat. 1,2,3, 7,8,9, 16-21 have the best viewing. The show was funny and the live orchestra playing traditional music was enjoyable. Plus it's a great way to support the local community and keep puppetry alive.
Rent a bicycle! Distances between sights are long. Walking is exhausting in the heat. Bicycles available for rent near most hotels (~2,000 kyat/day)."
},
{
icon: "Phone",
text: "SIM card essential: Hotel WiFi is notoriously slow in Myanmar. Get Ooredoo or Telenor SIM (available at phone shops, ~$5 USD with data). 3G/4G is your best option for staying connected."
},
{
icon: "Landmark",
text: "Shwe Nan Daw Kyaung: The Golden Monastery is a must-see. One of few buildings to survive WWII. Incredible teak carvings inside. Entry fee applies."
},
{
icon: "Book",
text: "Kuthodaw Pagoda: Home to the world's largest book! 729 marble slabs (each in its own white stupa) inscribed with Buddhist teachings. You're literally standing inside the book!"
},
{
icon: "Sparkles",
text: "Thanaka experience: Try the traditional cosmetic paste worn by Myanmar women. Made from tree bark, used for over 2,000 years. Fun photo opportunity!"
},
{
icon: "Theater",
text: "Puppet Show: Book Mandalay Puppet Show in advance! Best seats: 1,2,3, 7,8,9, 16-21. Live traditional orchestra. Great way to support local culture and keep puppetry alive."
},
{
icon: "Banknote",
text: "Grand Palace: Entry fee required (foreigners pay, locals free). Must enter from east gate only. We skipped it - you can see the moat and walls for free from outside."
},
{
icon: "Hotel",
text: "Where to stay: Downtown @mandalay hotel is quiet and centrally located. Expect slow WiFi - hence the need for local SIM card!"
}
]}
/>
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*Have you been to Mandalay? Did you discover the world's largest book? Did you watch the puppet show? What was your favorite sight? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
### Chiang Mai to Mandalay
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/chiang-mai-mandalay
Location: Mandalay, Myanmar
Date: 2017-11-06
We are leaving Thailand but we will come back soon. Now we are heading to Myanmar - a country we've been eagerly anticipating to explore.
Crossing from Chiang Mai to Mandalay marks the beginning of our Myanmar adventure. The flight was smooth, and as we descended into Mandalay, we caught our first glimpses of golden stupas and temples dotting the landscape below. This is the Myanmar we've dreamed about - a land of ancient temples, warm smiles, and rich Buddhist culture.
Arriving in Mandalay, Myanmar's second-largest city, we felt the excitement of entering a new country with so much to discover. From here, our journey through Myanmar would take us to ancient capitals, river cruises, and eventually to the magnificent temples of Bagan.
Flight: Direct flights available from Chiang Mai to Mandalay. Flight time approximately 1.5-2 hours. Book in advance for better rates."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Visa: Myanmar visa required for most nationalities. eVisa available online - apply at least 3-5 days before travel. Cost around $50 USD."
},
{
icon: "Banknote",
text: "Currency: Myanmar Kyat (MMK). USD widely accepted. ATMs available but can be unreliable - carry cash as backup. Credit cards rarely accepted."
},
{
icon: "Phone",
text: "SIM card: Get a local SIM card immediately. WiFi in hotels is notoriously slow. Ooredoo and Telenor offer good coverage. Available at airport and phone shops."
}
]}
/>
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*Have you traveled from Thailand to Myanmar? What was your first impression of Myanmar? Any travel tips for the border crossing? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
### The Thai Farm Cooking School
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/thai-farm-cooking-school
Location: Unknown, Unknown
Date: 2017-11-05
We signed up for a Thai cooking class in Chiang Mai. Cooking classes and food tours are popular in Thailand and Chiang Mai offered many opportunities to learn to prepare delicious Thai dishes. We elected a cooking class in an organic farm on the outskirt of the city. Today's program was simple: Buy spices and ingredients from a local market, learn about the main products used in Thai cuisine, cook several Thai dishes, eat, eat and eat even more.
The minivan picked up around 8:30 from the Ibis hotel, located 800 metres from our accommodation. We met our chef and instructor for the day, Ae. She was a lively and funny person. We first rode to a local market. Ae took us through the alleys of vegetables, meat and fished and some weird products we had never seen before. She introduced us to numerous spices, different varieties of rice and main ingredient used in the Thai cuisine: fish sauce, soya sauce, Palm sugar and Curries.
## Shopping at the Local Market
A short drive later and we arrived at the cooking school in the countryside. The beautiful little organic farm provided a great facility for learning. Each group had their own instructor and a few helpers with only 10 people per group. Three groups were present that day but they can accommodate 4 or 5 in total.
Each "student" had its own cooking station. We learned by practising. Before we cooked, we got a farmer/chef makeover with red aprons and Thai straw hats. Ae walked us through the farm and showed us the various spices and organic vegetables growing there. We got to taste Kaffir lime leaves, Thai sweet basil, holy basil, Galangal, coriander, Lemongrass and Bird's-eye chilli that Ae called dynamite chilli!
## Exploring the Organic Farm
For almost 5 hours we cooked. We cooked 5 dished each based on a selection. Together we picked Tom Yum soup with shrimp and Thai coconut curry with chicken, Thai spring rolls, Thai green and yellow curry paste, Thai cashew nut and vegetable stir-fry and Thai Mango Sticky Rice.
## Cooking Time
### Art in Paradise
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/art-paradise
Location: Unknown, Unknown
Date: 2017-11-04
We were templed out and did something different, refreshing and fun. We headed to the world’s biggest 3D art museum called 'Art in Paradise', the first of its kind in Thailand’s North. And guess what? The experience was so amusing we didn't see the time flying.
With over 130 paintings, we explored the artworks spread over eight different zones ranging from aquatic to surrealism to Ancient Egypt. We appreciated how incredibly clever, sharp and attractive each painting was. We were running like kids and couldn't wait to see what the next corner would bring us. It goes without telling we took dozens of photos with the wackiest and most dramatic poses.
We downloaded the augmented reality app, AIP Chiang Mai, built by The Illusion Art Museum. The application made the paintings come to life as we were watching them through the screen of our phones. It truly adds up to the whole experience and we can't recommend enough to instal the app. Not only we were taking pictures, but we also made surreal movies of us being chased by dinosaurs or being trapped in a snowball...
So download the app, bring a good camera, a tripod, your best sense of humour and the museum will be a terrific experience with or without kids.
iPhone or Android. Point your devices at the paintings and the application will automatically add augmented reality effects to your photos or videos."
},
{
"icon": "Check",
"text": "Bring a good camera with a full battery and an empty memory card. You will use it."
},
{
"icon": "Check",
"text": "A tripod will be useful even to take group photos."
},
{
"icon": "Check",
"text": "Don't be camera shy and bring your best sense of humour"
},
{
"icon": "DollarSign",
"text": "The costs for adults is 400 baht. Kids under 1.50 meter get discount and kids under one meter are free. Not cheap but those crazy pictures and videos will worth it."
}
]}
/>
### Yee Peng Festival
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/yee-peng-festival
Location: Unknown, Unknown
Date: 2017-11-03
Today was a full moon and therefore the most important day of the Yee Peng Festival. We had 2 important tasks to accomplish before sunset. First, we needed to find the perfect Krathong or handmade boat. Next, we needed to buy a few light lanterns to release tonight in the sky. Easy enough right?
We started by wandering in Chiang Mai and visited a few street markets. We didn't spot the perfect boat, so we carried on further. We passed by a school where children were sitting outside, taking a group picture with their creation - a lovely Krathong. Maybe we should have built our own? It was too late to craft something, so we headed to the main bridge where tonight celebrations were kicking off, hoping to find our floating boat. And we found many. A dozen of stalls were crafting boat made of leave and wood of banana trees. Thai building hundred of boat for tonight celebration. We pick and bought a winner that would bring us good luck.
The first task accomplished; we found a nice restaurant to celebrate. As we were too early, we had to drink a beer at the nearby Hard Rock Cafe. The food was delicious as always in Thailand.
With a full belly, we set off to buy our light lantern. Surprisingly, we couldn't find them that easily but the Chinese market was our saviour.
Equipped with a boat and the lanterns we returned to the bridge to release and celebrate with hundreds of locals and tourists. The release of hundreds of lanterns in the sky was magical.
### Loy Krathong Lantern Festival
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/loy-krathong-lantern-festival
Location: Chiang Mai, Thailand
Date: 2017-11-02
Loy Krathong is a festival celebrated throughout Thailand with the festivities in Chiang Mai being especially well known. "Loy" means to float and a "Krathong" is a small boat made from the wood and leaves of banana trees.
During the festival, thousands of handmade boats are released into the city's moat. Thai people believe the floating boat, decorated with flowers, will take away sins and bad luck and carry their wishes for the future.
The Yee Peng also happens in Chiang Mai, but only in Chiang Mai, and coincides with Loy Krathong. The festival is the reason why so many tourists flock the city for 3 or 4 days. The event, made famous for its thousands of light lanterns floating into the night sky, has become a must-do for tourists and backpackers.
We were in the city to celebrate both festivals and today was the opening ceremony - the beginning of three magical days that would transform Chiang Mai into a city of light.
When: Full moon of 12th lunar month (usually November). Coincides with Yee Peng festival. Chiang Mai celebrates for 3-4 days. Check exact dates before traveling!"
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Best location: Chiang Mai is THE place for these festivals. Loy Krathong celebrated across Thailand, but Yee Peng (sky lanterns) is unique to Chiang Mai."
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Two festivals, one celebration: Loy Krathong = floating boats in water. Yee Peng = floating lanterns in sky. Both happen simultaneously in Chiang Mai creating magical atmosphere."
},
{
icon: "Boat",
text: "Krathong boats: Handmade from banana tree wood/leaves, decorated with flowers, candles, incense. Represents letting go of negativity and making wishes."
},
{
icon: "Sparkles",
text: "Spiritual meaning: Thai people release krathongs to honor water goddess, seek forgiveness, let go of grudges, and wash away bad luck from previous year."
},
{
icon: "Hotel",
text: "Book accommodation EARLY! Hotels fill up months in advance. Prices skyrocket during festival. Book 3-6 months ahead for best rates and availability."
},
{
icon: "Users",
text: "Expect crowds: Chiang Mai becomes extremely busy. Thousands of tourists + locals. Arrive early to spots for best positions. Patience required!"
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Photography: Bring camera with good low-light performance. Lanterns look spectacular at night. Waterproof case useful near moat."
}
]}
/>
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*Have you experienced Loy Krathong or Yee Peng in Chiang Mai? What did you wish for when releasing your krathong? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
### Maeklang Elephant Conservation Community
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/maeklang-elephant-conservation-community
Location: Chiang Mai, Thailand
Date: 2017-11-01
Maeklang Elephant Sanctuary was phenomenal. We were picked up by a nice air-conditioned minivan and set off for the elephants camp where we would spend an unforgettable day with gentle giants.
There were 6 elephants having been rescued from circuses or hard labour. The youngest, Sunday, was just 1 year old - full of energy and curiosity. The eldest was around 40, carrying decades of stories in her wise eyes. Each elephant had their own personality, their own past, and now, thankfully, their own chance at a peaceful life.
We spent the day feeding the elephants, preparing food and medicine, cleaning them with mud and bathing together in the river. We had so much fun, and we knew we were doing something good for the community, the elephants and their carers.
The highlight was definitely the river bath. Watching these magnificent creatures splash in the water, seeing their joy and playfulness, knowing they're finally free from exploitation - it was an emotional and transformative experience. This is what responsible elephant tourism looks like.
Ethical sanctuary: Maeklang rescues elephants from circuses and hard labor. No riding, no shows, no chains. Only feeding, bathing, and learning about conservation."
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Cost (2017): ~$70 USD for full day program. Includes transportation from Chiang Mai, lunch, activities, and supporting elephant welfare."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Full day experience: Pick-up around 8:30am, return late afternoon. Plan for 6-8 hours total. Worth every minute!"
},
{
icon: "Shirt",
text: "What to bring: Change of clothes (you'll get wet!), waterproof phone case/camera, sunscreen, insect repellent, closed-toe shoes that can get muddy."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Photography: Allowed! Capture these magical moments but remember - experience first, photos second. Being present with elephants is priceless."
},
{
icon: "Users",
text: "Small groups: Intimate experience with limited visitors. This ensures elephants aren't stressed and you get quality time with them and guides."
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "River bathing: Most memorable part! Elephants love water. You'll help wash and play with them in the river. Bring waterproof camera!"
},
{
icon: "AlertTriangle",
text: "Avoid unethical tourism: Never ride elephants, watch elephant shows, or visit camps with chains/hooks. True sanctuaries focus on elephant welfare, not entertainment."
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Lunch included: Thai meal provided. Let them know dietary requirements when booking."
},
{
icon: "Star",
text: "Why it matters: Your visit supports rescued elephants and educates about conservation. Tourism done right can save elephants' lives."
}
]}
/>
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*Have you visited Maeklang or another ethical elephant sanctuary? What was your experience? Why is ethical elephant tourism important to you? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
### Pai to Chiang Mai
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/pai-chiang-mai
Location: Pai, Thailand
Date: 2017-10-31
We were already leaving Pai but we couldn't leave before jumping into the crystal clear and pure hot water of the Sai Ngam Hot Springs, also known as the Secret Hot Springs.
We woke up (very) early and hopped on our scooter for the 15-kilometre ride north of Pai on the steep and windy highway 1095. The last section was very abrupt, and we felt like being on a rollercoaster going up and down the hill.
We paid 20 THB per person for the national park entry, another 20 THB for the bike and 20 THB more each to access the 3 levelled pools. We arrived first and could relax in the water which was at a comfortable temperature. Not too hot. Not too cold. We soaked up for an hour before being joined by another couple. It was time for us to leave anyway and get ready for the 3-hour bus to Chiang Mai.
Location: 15km north of Pai on highway 1095. Also called Secret Hot Springs. Inside national park area."
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Fees (2017): 20 THB per person for national park entry + 20 THB for motorbike + 20 THB per person for pool access. Total 60 THB per person (~$2 USD)."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Best time: Early morning (before 8am) to avoid crowds and enjoy peaceful soak. Gets busy mid-morning onwards."
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "The pools: 3 natural tiered pools with crystal-clear hot spring water. Temperature is perfect - not too hot, not too cold. Bring swimsuit!"
},
{
icon: "Bike",
text: "Getting there: Rent scooter in Pai. Road is steep and windy with lots of ups and downs - like a rollercoaster! International license recommended."
},
{
icon: "Shirt",
text: "What to bring: Swimsuit, towel, waterproof phone case, drinking water. Small changing areas available."
},
{
icon: "Bus",
text: "Pai to Chiang Mai: 3-hour bus journey. 762 curves through mountains. Book in advance. VIP buses more comfortable for motion sickness sufferers!"
},
{
icon: "Mountain",
text: "Perfect farewell: Hot springs make excellent final stop before leaving Pai. Relaxing way to end your mountain adventure!"
}
]}
/>
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*Have you been to Sai Ngam Hot Springs? Did you visit in the morning or later? What's your favorite memory of Pai? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
### Pai Canyon
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/pai-canyon
Location: Pai, Thailand
Date: 2017-10-30
Thanks to our 115cc Honda Scoopy we set out to Pai Canyon (Kong Lan) also referred to as Thailand's (tiny) version of the Grand Canyon.
On our way, we stopped at the famous love cafe which offers a mediocre breakfast but breathtaking views from their terrace. If you aren't hungry, you can still stop and snap the perfect panoramic photo.
We passed by the WWII Memorial Bridge and quickly arrived at the canyon. The spot is famous for photographers and thrill-seeking tourists. Indeed, the most remote viewing areas required us to traverse challenging trails. We climbed up and down using our legs as well as our arms and managed to cross a number of narrow ridges with significant drops on either side.
To finish the day, we left the natural rocky landscape and headed for the Mor Paeng Waterfall, a three-tiered waterfall. The popular attraction during the day was left empty when we arrived around 5 in the afternoon.
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*Have you been to Pai Canyon? Did you traverse the narrow ridges? Which waterfalls did you visit around Pai? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
### Mae Yen Waterfall
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/pai-mae-yen-waterfall
Location: Unknown, Unknown
Date: 2017-10-28
Pai has several waterfalls accessible by motorbike: Mae Sa Waterfall, Pam Bok Waterfall, Mo Paeng Waterfall and Mae Yen Waterfall. We picked the last one. That fall was the most difficult to reach and therefore the less touristic and more rewarding experience.
We set off for Pai's bridge, crossed it, parked our motorcycle further down the road and proceed on foot for the next 7 kilometres through a mix of bare area and forest. The path that followed the river cut across the stream 35 times. Therefore, we wore flip-flops as we were crossing the river every 200 metres or less. After 2 hours into the hike, we realised we were not even close to the end, and the track was getting even more strenuous. We switched for our good walking. Those would get wet and muddy but at least we would make some progress. Walking at a faster pace, we reach the last steep section. 40 minutes later, we were finally greeted by the waterfall falling from a 30 height metre cliff.
The rare tourists, who made it so far, were already leaving, and the place was just for us to enjoy. We quickly plunged into the big basin. The water was cold. Freezing. Standing near the base of the waterfall the water splashed on us with force. We couldn't stay much longer though. Sunset was coming fast, and we didn't want to be stuck in the dark climbing up and down the valley.
We took the whole day to do the hike, but it was definitely worth it. A few words of advice if you are in Pai. The waterfall which originates from Huay Nam Dang National Park isn't anything special but the hike in the jungle is truly amazing. One of the best things to do in Pai area during hot days, as you walk all the time in a shade, next to the water.
## Les meilleurs conseils pour préparer votre promenade à la cascade Mae Yen :
1) débutez votre marché à partir du centre ville car le début de la balade n'est qu à 1 kilomètre ou deux du centre ville. Nul besoin de louer un scooter pour la journée car la promenade vous prendra presque la journee. Des que vous aurez terminé la marche laborieuse, vous ne voudrez que vous asseoir et vous relaxer à l'un des nombreux bars le long des rues. La mobilette ne vous servira donc à rien.
2) levez vous tôt pour éviter la foule même si ce n'est pas la promenade la plus populaire de la région. Plus important, vous désirez être certains que vous possédez assez de temps pour revenir avant la tombée ds la nuit. N'oubliez pas que l'obscurité tombe vite sous cette végétation très dense.
3) la première partie de la balade est la plus facile étant plutôt plate. Donc si vous éprouvez des difficultés durant la première partie, il est peut être prudent de faire demi tour.
4) la route de la cascade est envahie par la vegetation, elle disparaît parfois et traverse la rivière 35 fois. Il est donc impossible de changer de chaussures à chaque traversée. Donc gardez vos chaussures de marche. Elles seront trempées mais vous feront gagner du temps. Nous ne recommandons pas les flip-flops. Elles sont trop glissantes et vous risqueriez de vous faire mal aux pieds ou à la cheville. Nous avons vu des gens se promener pieds nus Mais ont-ils considéré le risque de piqûres d'insectes ou autres animaux ?
5) la marche dure environs 2 à 3 heures suivant votre rythme. Ne sous estimez pas la difficulté de celle-ci. Nous avons entendu de nombreuses personnes qui renonçaient et ne la terminaient pas. Après la dernière traversée, il vous reste 30 minutes avant d'arriver à la cascade.
6) apportez beaucoup d'eau et des petits en-cas. Vous ne trouverez aucun 7-Eleven sur votre route. Mangez pour calmer vos gargouillements et réhydratez vous régulièrement car vous transpirerez pas mal.
7) soyez prêts à vous déconnecter du monde. Quelques minutes de marche et vous perdrez votre connection 3G, 4G, ou Wi-Fi. Vous devrez attendre pour poster vos magnifiques photos sur Instagram.
8) évitez de partir seul car ce n'est pas une randonnée populaire et em cas de problème vous pourriez attendre des heures avant de recevoir de l'aide.
9) prenez une petite trousse d'urgence pour survivre à de petites coupures, bleus et éraflures.
10) vérifiez la météo et si il vient de pleuvoir abondamment, il serait sage d'annuler la promenade. Le ruisseau sera par endroit trop difficile à traverser. Prenez conseils auprès des locaux avant de partir à l'aventure.
### Chiang Rai to Pai
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/chiang-rai-pai
Location: Unknown, Unknown
Date: 2017-10-27
We were already leaving Chiang Rai even though our hostel lady wasn't ready for our checkout. She thought we were staying one more night at the hostel. As a matter of fact, she was right, but we only realised it when we arrived in Pai, 8 hours later.
We boarded a VIP bus to Chiang Mai and a minivan to Pai. The first bus was extremely comfortable and last just under 3 hours. The second part was made of 762 curves that carve their way across the mountain from Chiang Mai and Pai. A pleasure for those suffering from motion sickeners.
Pai was a small town set in the mountains of Northern Thailand with numerous waterfalls, winding mountain roads to explore on a motorbike, bat caves, hot springs, zip lining, cute cafes and an easy-going atmosphere.
The once-hidden gem is now overrun with young backpackers which have washed up the traditional spirit of the village. Nonetheless, there was there's no arguing the beauty that surrounds the town.
After settling in our last-minute hotel, and enjoying the swimming pool, we explored the night market on Pai Walking Street.
### The White and Blue Temples
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/white-and-blue-temples
Location: Chiang Rai, Thailand
Date: 2017-10-26
Local buses were heading to Wat Rong Khun (Thai: วัดร่องขุ่น), also known as the White Temple. We climbed on a bus for a 20-minute ride to the artistic, contemporary, and peculiar temple. The holy site is privately owned by the local artist Chaloemchai Kositpipat and is unlike any other religious structure in Thailand.
The white and silver exterior of the central temple with its glistening and mirrored fragments was stunning. We entered the temple by crossing a pearly white bridge built over a sea of monsters, skulls and grasping hands trying to reach our ankles. The unconventional masterpiece is like no other religious structure in Thailand and we could understand why it divided opinions.
The interior walls of the temple were painted with the life of Buddha and some truly bizarre and out-of-place superhero, sci-fi and pop star figures. We spotted Superman, Star Wars characters, Disney characters, a crotch-grabbing Michael Jackson, Terminator, Harry Potter, a minion, Pikachu, Billy the Puppet from the Saw franchise, Elvis Presley, Transformers, Angry Birds, Hulk, Freddy Krueger, Batman, Avatar, Spider-Man, Son Goku, Pirates of the Caribbean heroes. We wandered around the spectacular temple as its surroundings were also photo-worthy.
## Wat Phra Kaew
After a light lunch, we hopped onboard a songthaew which is basically a truck with a pair of bench seats in the back, one on either side. The truck followed the same road as the buses but ran more often at the same price as the bus.
Wat Phra Kaew (Thai: วัดพระแก้ว) was next on our list. The temple is one of the oldest temples in Chiang Rai and used to hold the Emerald Buddha, the most highly revered Buddha image in Thailand. We admired the copy as the original has been relocated to Wat Phra Kaeo in Bangkok.
## The Blue Temple
We finished the day with a visit to the Blue Temple or, to use its correct name, Rong Sear Tean Temple (Thai: วัดร่องเสือเต้น). The newest temple in Chiang Rai was still under construction but was already worth seeing and there were quite a few visitors, both local and overseas. Artisans were completing the fountain by the entrance. It was funny to see the different steps used to create those massive sculptures.
White Temple transport: Local buses from Chiang Rai bus station run every 20-30 minutes. Journey takes 20 mins. Songthaews (shared taxis) also available at similar prices."
},
{
icon: "Ticket",
text: "Entry fees (2017): White Temple: 50 baht. Blue Temple: Free (donations appreciated). Wat Phra Kaew: Free."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Best time to visit: Early morning (8-9am) or late afternoon (4-5pm) to avoid heat and crowds. White Temple especially crowded midday. Blue Temple less busy overall."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Photography rules: Photos allowed outside. NO PHOTOS inside White Temple main hall - strictly enforced! Blue Temple more relaxed about interior photos."
},
{
icon: "Shirt",
text: "Dress code: Shoulders and knees covered. Remove shoes before entering temples. Free sarongs usually available if needed."
},
{
icon: "Sparkles",
text: "White Temple highlights: Mirrored facade, bridge over sea of hands, pop culture murals inside (Superman, Batman, Minions, Star Wars!), golden toilets. Truly unique experience!"
},
{
icon: "Palette",
text: "Artist info: Created by local artist Chaloemchai Kositpipat. Still under construction - ongoing lifetime project. Privately owned, not government temple."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Blue Temple (Rong Sear Tean): Newest temple in Chiang Rai. Still under construction but already stunning. Less crowded than White Temple. Watch artisans working!"
},
{
icon: "History",
text: "Wat Phra Kaew: One of oldest temples in Chiang Rai. Once held the Emerald Buddha (now in Bangkok). See replica of Thailand's most sacred Buddha image."
},
{
icon: "Route",
text: "One day itinerary: White Temple (morning) → Lunch → Wat Phra Kaew → Blue Temple (afternoon). All doable in one day using local transport. Budget ~500-1000 baht including transport and food."
}
]}
/>
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*Have you visited the White and Blue Temples? Which pop culture character did you spot in the White Temple? What did you think of Chiang Rai? Leave us your comments below. We would love to hear from you.*
### Bangkok to Chiang Rai
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/bangkok-chiang-rai
Location: Unknown, Unknown
Date: 2017-10-25
After relaxing by the roof-top swimming pool, it was time for us to say goodbye to Bangkok. We headed to the airport, with the handy Grab application, for our early afternoon flight back to Chiang Rai.
Today, after one year of mourning, Thailand was paying tribute and farewell to the "Father of the Nation", His Majesty the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Everywhere, people were dressed in black as a sign of respect for their beloved king. Some have worn no colours since the death of the former king, a man revered as a demigod, on October 13, 2016.We sat at the airport, watched the celebration of the world’s longest-reigning monarch and finally boarded our Air Asia plane. Before landing, we were greeted with a rainbow.
### The remote temples Ayutthaya
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/remote-temples-ayutthaya
Location: Unknown, Unknown
Date: 2017-10-24
We rented a bicycle to explore the remote temples and ruins we had missed the previous day. We highly recommend the bicycle to explore Ayutthaya at your own pace. Most hostels will rent, at 50 baht per day, a push bike from 8.00 to 19.00. And, if you are a guest, you might even get a discount.
Our first stop was Wat Samanakottaram. The deserted holy place was just next to the floating market and had only a few ruins left. We passed along the market but didn't feel the need to pay the overpriced entrance. The market seemed a bit too touristic for our taste.
The Wat Maheyong was next on the list. The Buddhist temple is small with only a number of *chedi* (*stupa*) and *ubosot* (ordination hall) currently under worship. The main Chedi was shaped like a bell and was supported by 80 sculpted elephant figures. We ventured around the compounds and only crossed 3 Buddhist nuns wearing the traditional white robes.
We cycled to Wat Yai Chai Mongkol, an ancient royal monastery in Ayutthaya built in the 14th century. The holy site, like most places in Ayutthaya, was destroyed by the Burmese in 1767. The restored and active Buddhist temple is arranged around a large chedi which rises to offer a great view of the city for those willing to climb the steps. Of course, we ascended all the steps and enjoy the views.
We kept wandering in the green and well-maintained garden. We discovered, in the courtyard, a number of Buddha figure perfectly aligned in rows. Each figure seemed identical but subtitle differences in their facials expressions or postures make them all unique. Several smaller chedi ruins dotting the grounds serve as a reminder that the site is historical. The temple is also known for its 7 meters long reclining Buddha covered with a saffron sash. We almost miss the popular attraction hidden behind walls.
That temple was the last stop before hopping on a train for Bangkok. Ayutthaya was well worth the two days visit from Bangkok. Most visitors only do a day trip from the capital but that's not enough to soak up the ambience of the magnificent remaining ruins and temples.
### Ayutthaya
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/ayutthaya
Location: Unknown, Unknown
Date: 2017-10-23
We set off from our hostel, the Siri Poshtel, in Bangkok to Ayutthaya, the ancient capital of Thailand. We boarded one of the regular (roughly every 30 minutes) train leaving from the Hua Lamphong railway station.
Train tickets cost us 20 baht each in third class for a 1.5-hour journey. The third class was a bit rough and smelly. But we got seated and couldn't really complain at that price. FYI the second class cost 67 baht and give you a reserved and a more comfortable seat. Depending on the train, the third class will be more or less clean and crowded.
The kingdom of Ayutthaya was Thailand's ancient capital and the most important political, trading and religious centre in all Asia. Strategically built on an island at the confluence of three rivers connecting the city to the sea, the city flourished into one of the world’s largest urban areas. To give some perspective, by the 18th century, one million were living in the wealthy city when only 600.000 had settled in London.
The glorious city was filled with huge monasteries, magnificent temples, gold filled palaces and endless row of Buddha dating back to 1300. The city prospered until the invasion by the Burmese army 1767. The ferocious army pilled the monasteries, burnt to the ground the holy temples, and forced the inhabitants to abandon the city. Ayutthaya was no more. A new capital, Bangkok, will later be rebuilt 80 kilometres south based on Ayutthaya's heritage.
At present, the ruins scattered around the city and its surroundings have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Soon enough even the more remote remains will be protected by the World Heritage Committee.
After almost a 2-hour ride, we highlighted in the historical town. We shared a tuk-tuk with a French couple, freshened up at our magnificent bungalow-hotel, Baan Luang Harn, and explored the temples (or Wats) located nearby. Most people rent a tuk-tuk (200-300 baht per hour) for the day but we elected to use our feet.
The six main temples (Ratchaburana, Mahatat, Phra Ram, Phra Si Sanphet, Chaiwattanaram, and Maheyong) cost 50 baht each or 220 baht for the \`multi-temple ticket\` valid up to a month.
We stared at Wat Ratchaburana which is located in the centre of old Ayutthaya and notorious for its surviving mural paintings in the bottom crypt.
## Wat Ratchaburana
A stone's throw away, we found Wat Phra Mahathat, one of Ayutthaya landmarks, with the world-famous relic of Buddha's head tucked into tree roots. For that reason, the holy place gets very busy, especially when buses full of Chinese people pulled up.
## Wat Phra Mahathat
With its three large restored Chedis, Wat Phra Si Sanphet was the grandest and holiest temple on the ground of the old Royal Palace and next on our list. We learned that as part of the Royal Palace complex, the sanctuary didn't have any resident monks though they were occasionally invited for particular rites. The royal temple served to conduct ceremonies within the royal court, such as the ritual to drink an oath of allegiance. We explored the three impressive Chedis which each contains a chamber where the ashes of Ayutthaya Kings were enshrined. The scene was postcards material, so Kro took hundreds of pictures. The SD card almost full, we left for the next site.
## Wat Phra Si Sanphet
By the time we arrived at the Phra Mongkhon Bophit chapel, storm clouds were gathering and a few just minutes later the skies opened up and the monsoon hit us. The active temple compound was closed for renovation so we quickly left. As it was pouring down, we just pass along the Wat Phra Ram compound. Almost invariably the storm is followed by bright, hot sunshine, drying clothes in a matter of minutes and we finished our day with a visit to the Wat Chai Wattanaram.
### Damnoen Saduak Floating Market
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/damnoen-saduak-floating-market
Location: Unknown, Unknown
Date: 2017-10-22
We woke up early to catch a minivan to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market located about 100 kilometres southwest of Bangkok. Our first impressions of the floating market were a bit of a disappointment. Damnoen Saduak is the biggest and busiest floating market. It's also the most is the most popular therefore the most touristy of all the tourist traps in Bangkok! The 20 to 25 minutes ride on the canals aboard the narrow padded boat was only an excuse for merchants on both sides of the canal to sell us everything from spices to and memento. Besides the boat ride, we kept discovering the of the market by walking and crossing a few bridges which were connecting the different sections.
Next on our list was Wat Pho – the oldest temple in the city which shelters of the world-famous Reclining Buddha. Bangkok's Grand Palace was closed for Royal Cremation and therefore the roads either side of the site were also blocked. With the help of volunteers, which were rehearsing for the event, we walked to the nearby Wat Pho’s gates.
The site was not crowded as it was already late in the day or/and most people might have renounced due to the road blockages.
The temple has over a thousand of Buddha images, the largest collection of Buddha images in Thailand, but the main attraction was the Reclining Buddha, which is 15m high and 43m long. Just mind-blowing!
One hundred and eight bronze bowls were lined up against the wall in the area behind the statue, towards the exit. These bowls symbolize the 108 auspicious characters of Buddha. Guests circumambulating the image may choose to drop a coin on every bowl for good fortune. These donations also go to the maintenance funds of the temple.
### Wat Arun
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/wat-arun
Location: Unknown, Unknown
Date: 2017-10-22
We woke up late and spent time planning our coming trip to Myanmar. The country dubbed as “Asia’s final frontier has a limited number decent and affordable accommodation. We didn't want to miss a good deal, therefore, some planning was required.
After spending a few hours on Booking.com (the best online website to book accommodation in Burma), we boarded a boat to cross the Chao Phraya River from the Tha Tien Pier. For only 4 baht, we alighted on the other side where we found Wat Arun also nicknamed the Temple of the Dawn.
The Admission was 50 baht per person and of course, we had to cover our knees and shoulders out of respect. We explored the main towering Prang with its four smaller siblings. The corn-cob like structure was beautifully decorated with amazing colourful carvings. The details were incredible. The temple was slightly different from most other temples you will see in Bangkok as it’s not loaded with gold decorations.
Visiting rooftop bars was one of the coolest things we wanted to do in Bangkok. We looked around and elected the Sky Bar, an impressive rooftop bar in Thailand's capital. Known as the highest open-air bar in the world, and made world-famous by hosting the Hangover II filming, the 360-view over the city skyline was breathtaking as we were sipping on a delicious (but very pricey) cocktail.
### Chatuchak Market
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/chatuchak-market
Location: Bangkok, Thailand
Date: 2017-10-21
After mailing the gifts and souvenirs we bought in India, we headed for the largest market in Thailand, the Chatuchak Weekend Market is also known as JJ market. Some merchants, largely those selling clothing and food, open on Friday night but the market really busts to live during the weekend. The opening time of the market are: from 6 pm-midnight in Friday; Saturday and Sunday: 9 am – 6 pm. On the busy weekend, around 8000 vendors sell anything and everything from likewise plastic fruit to soap shaped like a penis to Bag Full of Gold Fishes. The list is almost endless!
## Lost in the Maze
We got lost as we wander through the labyrinth of alleyways. The clock tower in the middle of the maze gave us some kind of direction. The market was divided into different sections (27 to be precise) and we asked the vendors for some directions. We really wanted to see the cute puppies...
With such a huge collection of merchandise ranging from plants, antiques, souvenir, living animals we could have shopped until we dropped. But we didn't. Even if you haggle hard, the price isn't always that good as the spot has become a major tourist attraction.
## Central World Shopping Complex
After shopping at the market, we headed to the Central World, one of the mega-shopping for more shopping and some people watching. Those complex offers one of the most exciting shopping experiences in Bangkok and is a must do attraction if you visit the megalopolis.
Location & Access: Located in northern Bangkok, easily accessible via Mo Chit station on BTS Skytrain or Chatuchak Park station on MRT (subway). Both are right at the market entrance."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Best Time to Visit: Go in the morning (around 10am) as it's less crowded and cooler than the afternoon. The market gets very hot and packed after 1pm."
},
{
icon: "Map",
text: "Get a Free Map: Pick up a free market map at the tourist information office. You WILL get lost in the labyrinth of alleys. If you know what you're looking for, vendors are happy to point you in the right direction as the market is divided into 27 sections."
},
{
icon: "Footprints",
text: "Wear Comfortable Shoes: Wear comfortable shoes and light clothing as you might walk all day. Don't forget sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat if you're sensitive to sun."
},
{
icon: "Shield",
text: "Watch Your Belongings: Be mindful of your belongings and leave valuables at the hotel. We always carry minimum cash and photocopies of our ID cards. Pickpockets operate in this market."
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Stay Hydrated: Drink plenty of water as the market is huge and often hot and humid with temperatures around 30-35°C. Water and fresh coconuts available everywhere."
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Bargaining is Essential: Haggling is part of Thai culture. Don't be afraid to do it (a good strategy is to start bidding at 50% of the asking price) and walk away if you're not happy with their offer. You'll likely find the same product cheaper at another stall."
},
{
icon: "ShoppingBag",
text: "Buy What You Love: If you spot something that catches your eye, buy it! The market is so large that you probably won't find that vendor again and that perfect red dress will be gone."
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Food Options: Chatuchak has numerous restaurants offering food at reasonable prices. Alternatively, head to nearby Tor Kor Market - Bangkok's best fresh market with magnificent fruits, quality meat and seafood, hundreds of prepared dishes, and an outdoor courtyard selling delicious Thai food."
},
{
icon: "WcIcon",
text: "Public Toilets: Public toilets are located at the entrance and along the main streets running through the market. Don't expect them to be very clean. Bring some toilet paper if you don't want to pay 5 baht on top of the 2 baht fee to use the toilets."
},
{
icon: "CalendarDays",
text: "Opening Hours: Friday: 6pm-midnight (mostly clothing & food). Saturday-Sunday: 9am-6pm (full market). Plan to spend 3-4 hours minimum to explore properly."
},
{
icon: "Sparkles",
text: "What to Buy: Best buys include clothing, handicrafts, home decor, antiques, plants, and Thai souvenirs. Avoid live animals unless you understand import/export regulations."
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you gotten lost in Chatuchak's maze of 8,000 stalls? What's the best bargain you've scored at a weekend market? Any tips for first-time visitors?*
### Our first day in Bangkok
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/our-first-day-bangkok
Location: Bangkok, Thailand
Date: 2017-10-20
We landed at the Bangkok International Airport around 3 am. In no time we crossed the border control, bought a DTAC SIM card and climbed into an Uber. Our hostel, the [Siri Poshtel Bangkok](https://www.booking.com/hotel/th/siri-poshtel-bangkok.en-us.html?aid=1296479), was right in the iconic Old Town (Rattanakosin) surrounded by Bangkok's most spectacular and historical attractions including the Grand Palace and Wat Pho.
## Sunrise in the City of Angels
At 6 o'clock in the morning, the room wasn't available. We would have killed for a hot shower and a comfortable bed but we needed to wait the official check-in time at 2 pm. So we strolled around the 'City of Angel' to watch the sunrise. We weren't disappointed. The traditional Buddhist temples, parks and monuments looked ravishing under the early light. Monks, wearing saffron robes, were walking barefoot around the neighbourhood while locals were making merit by offering them food.
## Lumphini Park: Spotting Giant Lizards
After a good breakfast, we ordered a metered taxi to the smoke-free Lumphini Park, one of the green lung of Bangkok. We breathed fresh air, admired the scenic view and hunt down the giant lizards roaming around the park. Up the 3 meters long, the harmless lizards still scare the bejeezus out of the unaware tourists. We spotted the beast lazily swinging in the lake. Later, another one hiding on the bank... We kept walking and enjoyed some `lizard-watching`. Around us, residents were playing sports, cycling or practising tai chi. The park was peaceful and home to occasional aerobic classes that visitors could jump in on.
## Khao San Road: The Backpacker Mecca
After lunch, we headed back to our hotel to take possession of our home for the next 5 days. We showered and indulged in a well-deserved nap. We slept until dusk which was the perfect timing to wander along the Khao San Road. The backpacker ghetto made world famous by the book and movie "the beach" come alive at night. Thousands of backpackers and tourists flood the street full of swanky bars and clubs, restaurants, massage parlours, travel agents, tattoo shops, market stalls, and much, much more. We saw our first bug food cart, but we weren't brave enough to try any - maybe next time.
We walked away from the bustling neighbourhood and found a popular restaurant in a quiet street north Khao San Road and with a full belly, we said goodbye to our first day in Bangkok.
Airport Transfer: From Suvarnabhumi Airport, use Airport Rail Link (₹45, 30min to city) or Grab/Uber (₹300-500, 45min-1hr depending on traffic). Avoid unlicensed taxis."
},
{
icon: "Smartphone",
text: "SIM Cards: DTAC, AIS, and TrueMove available at airport (₹200-800 for tourist packages). Get unlimited data plans. Registration requires passport."
},
{
icon: "Hotel",
text: "Accommodation: Old Town (Rattanakosin) puts you near Grand Palace & Wat Pho. Book hostels (₹300-800/night) or hotels (₹1,500-3,000). Many have luggage storage for early arrivals."
},
{
icon: "Sun",
text: "Early Check-in: Most hotels allow check-in at 2pm. Ask for early check-in or luggage storage. Use the time to explore nearby areas and grab breakfast."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Lumphini Park: Bangkok's largest green space. Free entry. Best visited 6-9am for cooler weather. Watch for monitor lizards (harmless but intimidating!). Boats available for rent (₹40/30min)."
},
{
icon: "Taxi",
text: "Getting Around: Use Grab (like Uber). Metered taxis available but insist on meter. BTS Skytrain and MRT subway cover major areas (₹15-50 per trip)."
},
{
icon: "Moon",
text: "Khao San Road: Most lively at night (6pm onwards). Bargain hard at market stalls. Try street food but stick to busy vendors. Avoid aggressive touts."
},
{
icon: "Bug",
text: "Street Food: Bug carts (scorpions, crickets, worms) are photo ops for many. If adventurous, start with crickets - they're the mildest. Otherwise, amazing pad thai and mango sticky rice everywhere!"
},
{
icon: "AlertCircle",
text: "Scams to Avoid: 'Grand Palace is closed today' scam - it's usually open. Tuk-tuk drivers offering cheap tours then taking you to gem shops. Always verify information independently."
},
{
icon: "Shirt",
text: "Temple Dress Code: Cover shoulders and knees. No shorts, tank tops, or revealing clothes. Many temples provide wraps/sarongs for rent (₹50-100 deposit)."
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*What was your first impression of Bangkok? Have you spotted the giant monitor lizards at Lumphini Park? Did you try any exotic street food on Khao San Road?*
### Bollywood movie
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/bollywood-movie
Location: Chennai, India
Date: 2017-10-19
For our last day in India, there was one last thing to do: watch a Bollywood movie. So we did. We pick a Tamil movie - Meyaadha Maan - bought spicy flavour popcorn and sit back in a comfortable theatre surrounded by locals. So do we speak Indian Tamil? Nope! Not a single word. Did we enjoy it? Very much.
## The Movie: Meyaadha Maan
Meyaadha Maan was a romantic comedy about Idhayam, a stage performer who was secretly in love for the last three years, with Madhu, his college mate. On the day of her engagement, Idhayam called his mates to announce he will commit suicide. To dissuade him, his friends reached out to Madhu and solicited her help. The ensuing phone set in motion events that turn out to be life-changing. Simple enough?
We loved the colour, the ambience and the great musical part of the movie. Obviously, we didn't get all the jokes. We were amused to observe people around us being so enthusiastic, laughing and clapping their hands every so often. It was a unique and refreshing experience. If you go to India, don't miss the opportunity to watch a movie.
Our hours in Chennai and India were coming to an end as we were leaving for Bangkok tonight!
Movie Selection: Tamil movies in Chennai, Bollywood (Hindi) nationwide. No need to understand the language - the experience is about the atmosphere, music, and visual spectacle!"
},
{
icon: "Ticket",
text: "Ticket Prices: Cinema tickets range from ₹100-300 ($1.50-4.50) depending on the theatre and seat class. Book online via BookMyShow or buy at the counter."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Popular Theatres: Chennai - Sathyam Cinemas, AGS Cinemas, PVR. Look for multiplexes with AC for comfort. Local theatres offer authentic atmosphere but less comfort."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Showtimes: Multiple shows daily (morning, afternoon, evening, late night). Weekends and new releases get packed. Book in advance for popular movies."
},
{
icon: "Users",
text: "Audience Participation: Expect clapping, whistling, and cheering during hero entrance scenes and key moments. It's part of the fun! Join in if you feel comfortable."
},
{
icon: "Popcorn",
text: "Snacks: Try spicy popcorn, samosas, and masala fries. Indian cinema snacks are unique. Most theatres have full concession stands with local flavors."
},
{
icon: "Clock3",
text: "Movie Length: Bollywood/Tamil movies run 2.5-3 hours with an intermission. Use the break to stretch, grab snacks, or discuss the plot with locals!"
},
{
icon: "Volume2",
text: "Sound & Music: Expect LOUD. Music and action sequences are amplified. The musical numbers are elaborate and spectacular - a key part of Indian cinema."
},
{
icon: "Heart",
text: "Cultural Insight: Movies reflect Indian culture, values, and social issues. Even without understanding dialogue, you'll gain insights into family dynamics and traditions."
},
{
icon: "Smartphone",
text: "Language Barrier: Some upscale theatres have English subtitles for select shows. Check BookMyShow listings. Otherwise, just enjoy the visuals and energy!"
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you watched a Bollywood or regional Indian movie? What's the most memorable cinema experience you've had while traveling?*
### Mahabalipuram
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/mahabalipuram
Location: Mahabalipuram, India
Date: 2017-10-18
We set out for Mahabalipuram or Mamallapuram, as the town is known today, a tourist and remarkable city 60 kilometres south of Chennai. The charming city with its temples, beaches, colourful houses, and many rock sculptors is a perfect gateway form the busy Chennai. We explored in a few hours the main sightseeing scattered around including the Krishna's Butterball, the lighthouse, Arjuna's Penance, the Five Rathas and the Shore temple.
## Krishna's Butterball: Defying Gravity
We started by the Krishna's Butterball and were bluffed by the structure in defiance of all laws of physics. The gigantic granite boulder, weighing around 250 tons, is resting on a short incline in the historical town. No one seems able to budge it. Even the seven elephants which attend to move the rock in 1908.
## Shore Temple and the Five Rathas
The Shore temple, which is now UNESCO heritage site, was costly for the foreigners at 500 rupees but it gave us access to the Five Rathas. The Five Rathas (or chariots) was the highlight of our trip to the Mahabalipuram. Each chariot was carved out a single and long stone was astonishing.
## Diwali Celebrations in Full Swing
As we strolling along the city we could not forget that the Diwali celebrations were booming. We use this word for a good reason. The vibrant festival of lights is without a doubt one of the biggest and noisiest religious celebrations in India. Everywhere locals were exploding dozens of firecrackers to express their joy and were shouting `Happy Diwali` as we were passing by. The story behind Diwali in Tamil Nadu is different from other places in India. Most Tamilians celebrate this day as the death of the evil demon Narakasura, a feared demon, at the hands of Lord Krishna.
The Diwali is not only about fire and setting off explosives. It's also about spending time with family, eating sweets, buying gifts, and celebrates gods. The noise is just the obvious part as Indian people are setting off a shit load of explosives during those days. So much that some cities, like Delhi, are banning the sale of firecrackers!
Getting There: Located 60km south of Chennai (1.5-2 hours by car). Hire a taxi for the day (₹2,000-3,000) or take local buses (₹50-100) from Chennai CMBT."
},
{
icon: "Ticket",
text: "Entry Fees: Shore Temple & Five Rathas: ₹500 for foreigners, ₹35 for Indians. This ticket covers both sites. Keep your ticket as it's checked at both locations."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Best Time to Visit: Early morning (6-9am) or late afternoon (4-6pm) to avoid midday heat. Sites open sunrise to sunset. Allow 4-5 hours to see all major attractions."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Photography: Photography is allowed at all sites. The Shore Temple looks stunning at sunset. Krishna's Butterball is perfect for perspective photos."
},
{
icon: "Shirt",
text: "Dress Code: Dress modestly. Shoulders and knees should be covered when entering temple areas. Shoes must be removed at certain sites."
},
{
icon: "Sun",
text: "Weather Prep: Bring sunscreen, hat, and water. October-February is ideal (25-30°C). Avoid March-May when temperatures exceed 35°C."
},
{
icon: "Sparkles",
text: "Diwali Festival: If visiting during Diwali (October/November), expect fireworks, celebrations, and crowds. Locals are friendly but it's very noisy with constant firecrackers."
},
{
icon: "Users",
text: "Guides: Local guides available at entrance (₹500-800). They provide excellent historical context. Alternatively, download an audio guide app before visiting."
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Food: Several restaurants along the beach road serve fresh seafood. Try Moonrakers or Le Yogi. Budget ₹300-500 per person for a good meal."
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Beach Time: Mahabalipuram Beach near Shore Temple is lovely for sunset. The beach is cleaner than Chennai's beaches and perfect for relaxing after temple visits."
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you visited Mahabalipuram's ancient temples? What's your favorite UNESCO World Heritage site in India? Did you experience Diwali celebrations during your travels?*
### Chennai
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/chennai
Location: Chennai, India
Date: 2017-10-17
We waited the whole morning for a delivery from DHL. Sending a small parcel from Belgium ended up to be a very difficult and expensive operation. It took 2 weeks to get the customs clearance and the final delivery to our hotel. Nevertheless, we were reassured when we opened the box and got all the medicines to replace the one lost in China.
We spent the afternoon at the HSBC branch in Chennai to get David's bank statements. HSBC happens not be that international, and it took ages to retrieve basic information about his business account. Did we make the wrong choice with choosing HSBC?
After a boring day, we indulged ourselves and ate at [Paprika, the Courtyard by Marriott](https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g304556-d589282-r219240288-Courtyard_by_Marriott_Chennai-Chennai_Madras_Chennai_District_Tamil_Nadu.html) restaurant. We elected the dinner buffet as we wanted to explore one more time the Indian cuisine. Our genuinely kind waiter, Arnold, brought us some delicious starters. The fish especially was to die for. The selection of main dishes was large enough to cater for all tastes. Western, Asian and Indian were available. The chef, Tapas, explained the selection of foods. All more tempting than others... We can only recommend the restaurant. The food was stunning. The staff were so friendly and the ambience was excellent.
International Shipping: DHL and other couriers require customs clearance in India, which can take 2+ weeks. Include detailed descriptions and declare accurate values to avoid delays."
},
{
icon: "CreditCard",
text: "Banking: HSBC has limited branch access in India. Consider opening a local account or using international banks with better Indian presence for easier transactions."
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Fine Dining: Hotel restaurants like Paprika at Courtyard by Marriott offer excellent buffets (₹1,500-2,500) with diverse cuisines and impeccable service."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Best Time to Visit: October to February offers pleasant weather (20-30°C). Avoid April-June when temperatures soar above 40°C."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Getting Around: Auto-rickshaws, Uber, and Ola are readily available. Always insist on meter for autos or agree on price beforehand."
},
{
icon: "Wifi",
text: "Staying Connected: Major hotels offer reliable WiFi. Local SIM cards (Airtel, Vodafone) are available at airport and city shops with passport copy."
},
{
icon: "Heart",
text: "Local Etiquette: Dress modestly when visiting temples. Remove shoes before entering religious sites and homes. Use right hand for eating and giving/receiving items."
},
{
icon: "Coffee",
text: "Food Safety: Stick to bottled water. Hotel restaurants maintain high hygiene standards. Street food is delicious but may upset sensitive stomachs."
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you experienced similar challenges with international deliveries or banking while traveling? What's your favorite Chennai restaurant or travel memory?*
### Madurai to Chennai
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/madurai-chennai
Location: Chennai, India
Date: 2017-10-16
We were leaving Madurai for our already last destination in India. Time is flying when you are having fun and we definitely enjoying our Indian experience. We landed, with an almost empty plane, at Chennai, also known as Madras. The capital city of Tamil Nadu is the fourth largest metropolitan city in India. So messy, crowded but cleaner compare to Delhi and Varanasi.
## Airport Celebrity Status
After waiting for Kro being a star (and an exotic creature) of the selfie at the airport we jumped into an OlaCab to reach our well situated but unpleasant hotel.
## Chennai Traffic Nightmare
Starving, we took a shared Uber pool to a nice restaurant, [Barbeque Nation](http://www.barbequenation.com). The traffic was chaotic. And absolute mayhem. We took an hour to drive 2 kilometres. So you ask... Why didn't we walk it up? Because it's impossible to walk down the sidewalks in Chennai when they exist. Shops and food stalls spill out onto the sidewalk, people and cars park here, and bikes and motorcycles drove down the sidewalks.
Anyway, the food was nice and that how we like to end up a day!
Flight vs Train/Bus: Flight 1 hour (₹2,000-4,000), Train 7-8 hours (₹400-1,500), Bus 9-10 hours (₹600-1,200). For time-saving, fly. For experience and budget, take overnight sleeper train."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Selfie Celebrity: If you're foreign-looking, expect selfie requests at airports, temples, markets. Indians are curious and friendly. Smile and enjoy the attention - it's endearing!"
},
{
icon: "Taxi",
text: "Airport Transfer: Chennai airport to city: Ola/Uber (₹300-500, 45min-1.5hr depending on traffic), pre-paid taxi (₹500-700), or Airport Metro (₹70, 30min to central Chennai)."
},
{
icon: "AlertTriangle",
text: "TRAFFIC WARNING: Chennai traffic is legendary. 2km can take 1 hour during rush hours (8-10am, 5-8pm). Always allow 2-3x estimated travel time. Use metro when possible."
},
{
icon: "Footprints",
text: "Walking Impossible: Sidewalks are occupied by shops, food stalls, parked vehicles, motorcycles. Walking is frustrating and often dangerous. Use Ola/Uber for short distances or brave the chaos!"
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Hotel Location: Stay near T. Nagar, Mylapore, or Egmore for central location. Areas near airport are far from attractions. Check proximity to metro stations for easier travel."
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Barbeque Nation: Popular buffet chain (₹800-1,200/person). Unlimited grilled meats/vegetables brought to table + extensive buffet spread. Locations across Chennai. Book ahead on weekends."
},
{
icon: "Building2",
text: "Chennai vs Other Cities: Cleaner than Delhi and Varanasi but still chaotic. Less tourist touts. More conservative dress expected. Tamil spoken more than Hindi."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Uber Pool/Shared: Save money with Uber Pool/Share (₹50-150 vs ₹200-400 regular). Be prepared for longer journey times with multiple pickups/dropoffs during peak hours."
},
{
icon: "Shield",
text: "Hotel Quality: Read recent reviews carefully. Chennai has many 'well-situated but unpleasant' hotels. Pay extra for reputable chains or well-reviewed boutique hotels."
},
{
icon: "Users",
text: "Cultural Note: Chennai is more traditional and conservative than Mumbai/Delhi. Dress modestly. Public displays of affection frowned upon. Tamil culture is proudly distinct from North India."
},
{
icon: "Plane",
text: "Empty Flights: Madurai-Chennai route often has empty seats on smaller planes. Sometimes you'll feel like you have a private jet! Book early for best prices (₹2,000-3,000)."
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you experienced the legendary Chennai traffic? Any tips for navigating Indian cities? What's your favorite South Indian restaurant?*
### Meenakshi Amman Temple
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/meenakshi-amman-temple
Location: Madurai, India
Date: 2017-10-15
We woke up early to beat the queue and the crowd of the Meenakshi Amman Temple, largest temple complexes in Tamil Nadu After leaving our shoes, we entered the 52-metre high southern tower. We strolled for a good 2 hours admiring the magnificent and colourful towers.
## Meeting Professor Mohammed Siraj
After an Indian breakfast, we headed for the Thirumalai Nayakkar Mahal temple. We struggled to find an auto rickshaw. The Diwali brought so many extra Indian tourists in an already crowded city. As we were waiting for our driver, we met a French teacher. He showed several poems he wrote, so we missed the only taxi we found. It didn't matter. The gentleman, Professor Mohammed Siraj, was so enthusiastic about his passion we enjoyed reading and correcting a few typos in his compositions.
## Thirumalai Nayakkar Mahal
Constructed by the King Thirumalai Nayak who ruled the Kingdom of Madurai in 17th Century Dravidian-Islamic palace has lost its glory. We ventured in the remains as most sections have been demolished. We left the badly maintained palace and wandered in the streets. India needs to conserve and restore their monuments or in a few years, their heritage will be gone forever.
## Sunset Restaurant
To escape the street chaos, we went to the roof of the Sunset restaurant which offers beers and a panoramic view of the temples, the elephant rock and Kodaikanal. We laid back with a kingfisher and let the day run out...
Best Time to Visit: Arrive early (6-8am) to avoid crowds and heat. Temple opens 5am-12:30pm and 4pm-9:30pm. Fridays are especially crowded. Avoid festival days unless you want intense crowds."
},
{
icon: "Ticket",
text: "Entry Fees: Indians: Free. Foreigners: ₹50. Camera: ₹50 extra. Keep ticket for museum access. Shoes must be left outside (free shoe storage available)."
},
{
icon: "Shirt",
text: "Dress Code: Shoulders and knees must be covered. Men: Long pants required. Women: Saree, salwar kameez, or long skirt recommended. Sarongs available for rent (₹20-50) if needed."
},
{
icon: "Building2",
text: "Architecture: 14 towering gopurams (temple towers), tallest being 52 meters. Over 33,000 sculptures adorn the temple. Each tower is covered with painted stucco figures of gods, goddesses, and mythical creatures."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Photography: Photography allowed with camera ticket (₹50). No photos inside sanctum sanctorum. Best shots: colorful gopuram towers, Hall of Thousand Pillars, and Golden Lotus Tank."
},
{
icon: "Clock3",
text: "Time Needed: Allow 2-3 hours to explore properly. Temple complex is vast (14 acres). Audio guides available (₹100) or hire local guide (₹300-500) for historical context."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Thirumalai Nayakkar Mahal: 17th-century palace 2km from temple. Entry ₹50 (foreigners). Sadly neglected - most sections demolished. Worth 30-45 minutes if interested in Indo-Saracenic architecture."
},
{
icon: "Sparkles",
text: "Evening Ceremony: Attend 9pm ceremony when Lord Shiva is carried to Goddess Meenakshi's bedroom. Beautiful ritual with drums, chanting. Very crowded but worth experiencing."
},
{
icon: "Taxi",
text: "Auto Rickshaws: Difficult to find during Diwali and festivals. Use Ola/Uber apps or pre-book through hotel. Agree on meter use or fixed price before departure. Expect ₹50-100 for short rides."
},
{
icon: "Coffee",
text: "Rooftop Restaurants: Several restaurants near temple offer rooftop dining with temple views. Sunset Restaurant, Meenakshi Bhavan recommended. Great for evening beer (₹150-250) and panoramic photos."
},
{
icon: "Users",
text: "Local Interactions: You'll meet interesting locals - poets, artists, guides. Take time to chat. Professor types often hang around tourist spots eager to practice English and share their work!"
},
{
icon: "AlertCircle",
text: "Conservation Concern: Many Tamil Nadu monuments are poorly maintained. Thirumalai Nayakkar Mahal is deteriorating. Visit now while they're still standing. Support conservation by paying entry fees."
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you visited Meenakshi Amman Temple? What's your favorite Hindu temple in India? Any memorable encounters with local poets or artists during your travels?*
### Munnar to Madurai
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/munnar-madurai
Location: Madurai, India
Date: 2017-10-14
We get out of the bed early to join the walking tour organised by the hotel. We ended up being the only two awake. The two managers were leading the ballade. We rumbled over the muddy track between the tea plantations. We learned the history of tea plantation of Munnar, the whole tea production process works and how the Tata Tea Ltd company was providing cheap housing, medical care for their employees and families and education.
## Leaving Munnar
We were already leaving Munnar and were talking a trip to the city of Madurai in Tamil Nadu. We loved Munnar and wished we could stay one more day.
After a 5 hour ride, we arrived in Madurai. Our hotel was located close to the Meenakshi Temple in the old part of Madurai. Besides a powerful kingdom, Madurai was also a centre of arts. The streets were packed. The coming Diwali festival making them even more crowded. People were coming to the city to buy their clothes and gifts for the festivities.
Getting There: Hire private taxi (₹3,000-4,500, 5 hours) or take bus (₹200-400, 6-7 hours). The 140km journey crosses from Kerala into Tamil Nadu through scenic mountain roads."
},
{
icon: "Sunrise",
text: "Morning Tea Walk: Many Munnar hotels offer free guided walks through tea plantations (6-7am). Learn about tea production, Tata Tea history, and worker welfare programs. Don't miss this!"
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Travel Time: Start journey by 9-10am to reach Madurai by mid-afternoon. Roads are good but winding in first half. Factor in stops for chai and photos."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Madurai Location: Book hotels near Meenakshi Temple in old town for walking access to main attractions. Area gets extremely crowded during Diwali (October/November)."
},
{
icon: "Sparkles",
text: "Diwali Season: If visiting during Diwali preparations, expect packed streets, fireworks shops everywhere, and heavy traffic. Book accommodation well in advance as prices spike."
},
{
icon: "Sun",
text: "Temperature Change: Prepare for heat! Munnar (22°C) to Madurai (32°C+) is a 10-degree jump. Dress in layers you can remove. Stay hydrated."
},
{
icon: "Leaf",
text: "Tata Tea Plantations: Munnar's plantations are owned by Tata Tea Ltd. They provide housing, medical care, education for workers and families - one of India's better corporate social responsibility programs."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Last Photos: Take morning shots of Munnar's misty tea gardens before leaving. The light between 6-8am creates stunning atmospheric images you'll treasure."
},
{
icon: "Hotel",
text: "Accommodation: Madurai hotels near temple range from budget (₹800-1,500) to mid-range (₹2,000-4,000). Book rooms facing away from street to avoid noise."
},
{
icon: "AlertCircle",
text: "Driver Tips: Confirm driver will complete full journey. Some Munnar drivers don't want overnight stays in Madurai. Agree on all terms and stops before departing."
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you done the Kerala to Tamil Nadu road trip? What's your experience with Diwali celebrations in South India?*
### Alleppey to Munnar
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/alleppey-munnar
Location: Munnar, India
Date: 2017-10-13
The sun woke up. We woke up to admire the sunrise. We were unlucky as clouds obscured the much-anticipated sunrise. We still captured some pink-hued sky and went back to bed.
An hour later, we were awakened, for the second time, by Johnson, the houseboat cook, as he was preparing the breakfast. Our last meal in the floating hotel. The Indian and Western breakfast was another delight. Our chef knew his way through his tiny kitchen and we were impressed by the food diversity he served us. Johnson guided us to the pier and helped us to board the bus ferry which mainly used by the natives. The trip cost 4 IDR. Ridiculously cheap. After 4 stops, we highlighted near the finish line of the annual Snake Boat Race. The world-famous race falls on the second Saturday of August.
## The Journey to Munnar
Our taxi for Munnar was waiting for us. The manager tries to renegotiate the fare. Furious, we menaced to find another company, picked up our backpacks and took off. After all, nothing was signed. Nothing was paid. Plus, we knew it was a scam. They ran after us apologizing and agreed to our price. We left with the chauffeur that would drive us for the next two days. Not exactly what happened but keep reading.
The first stop was Munnar. The small town, at 1524 metre above sea level, attracts thousands of tourists every year for its rolling hills, scenic valleys, gushing waterfalls and sprawling tea plantations. As we climbed towards Munnar, the roads became narrower with many hairpin bends and curves. A nightmare for those suffering of motion sickness. The journey was scenic and after nearly 5 hours long we reached Munnar.
## Munnar's Tea Gardens
The town, which still retains its colonial charm, has numerous hotels to greet travellers. Our hotel, [Grand Plaza](https://www.booking.com/hotel/in/grand-plaza-munnar.en-gb.html?aid=1296479), didn't disappoint. On top of being upgraded to a balcony room overlooking the lush carpeted plantations of tea, the staff was adorable and friendly. A three stars hotel with a four stars service.
After we paid our driver for his first day, he complained about some engine failures and that he could drive us any further. Again we knew he was lying and just didn't want to stay one night in Munnar. Not much we could do and gone was our driver. We didn't worried though. The hotel promised to find us another driver if the taxi company wouldn't send a replacement car. Relaxed, we explored the surroundings of our hotel and ventured in the muddy walkway of the tea gardens. The view was astonishing. We couldn't stop taking pictures. By chance, we even saw the tea pickers in action! And hop, a few moreover pictures.
## The Leech Encounter
It often rains in Munnar. Needless to say, we weren't prepared, and we felt slightly cold for the first time in India. Out of the blue, we bumped into an auto rickshaw driver who brought us back to the hotel. We rushed to our bedroom for a hot shower. We quickly noticed that both of us were bleeding. Blood was trickling down our leg and feet with no signs of stopping. The culprit? Horrible leeches! Although unpleasant, leeches don't carry any disease and the blood loss is minimum. So, we cleaned up the wound, applied a small bandage, and the story was over.
## Cooking Class Evening
That night, the hotel was organising a cooking and napkin-folding classes. We joyfully joined them. Kro practised and achieved almost perfect candles and Bishop's hats ready to decorate our dinner table. So that's what we did. We feasted on pilau rice, naan bread, chicken and vegetable curries.
Getting There: Hire a taxi (₹3,500-5,000, 5 hours) or take bus (₹150-300, 6-7 hours). Route has steep winding roads with 40+ hairpin bends. Not for those with motion sickness!"
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Travel Time: 130km journey takes 5-6 hours by car, longer by bus. Start early morning. Roads are narrow and slow. Factor in photo stops at viewpoints!"
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Taxi Scams: Agree on price BEFORE departure. Get it in writing. Drivers may claim 'engine trouble' to avoid overnight stays. Book through reputable hotels or online platforms."
},
{
icon: "Hotel",
text: "Accommodation: Grand Plaza offers great value (₹2,000-3,000/night) with balcony views of tea plantations. Book rooms with plantation views. 3-star hotels often have 4-star service!"
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Location: Munnar sits at 1,524m altitude. Temperatures 15-25°C (much cooler than Alleppey's 30°C). Bring light jacket and long pants for evenings and rain."
},
{
icon: "Leaf",
text: "Tea Plantations: Free to walk through plantations near most hotels. Best light for photos: early morning (6-8am) or late afternoon (4-6pm). Watch tea pickers at work around 9am-4pm."
},
{
icon: "Bug",
text: "LEECH ALERT: Common in wet season (June-November). Wear closed shoes, long pants, and socks. Check legs/feet after walks. Salt, lemon juice, or heat makes them detach. Don't pull - causes bleeding."
},
{
icon: "Cloud",
text: "Weather: October-March is dry season but still expect afternoon showers. June-September is monsoon - heavy rain daily. Always carry umbrella or rain jacket."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Photography: Misty mornings create ethereal tea plantation shots. Golden hour (5-6:30pm) offers warm light on rolling hills. Respectfully ask tea pickers before photographing."
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Activities: Many hotels offer cooking classes, tea tasting, and cultural programs. Ask reception about evening activities. Great way to learn Kerala cuisine!"
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "First Aid: For leech bites: Don't panic. Clean wound with antiseptic. Apply pressure to stop bleeding. Blood-thinning effect lasts 2-3 hours. No disease transmission risk."
},
{
icon: "Sunrise",
text: "Sunrise/Sunset: Hotel balconies offer stunning sunrise views over tea plantations (6-6:30am). Even if cloudy, the pink-hued sky is beautiful. Sunset around 6pm is equally spectacular."
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you visited Munnar's tea plantations? Any leech encounter stories to share? What's your favorite hill station in India?*
identifier="alleppey-munnar"
title="Alleppey Munnar"
url="https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/alleppey-munnar"
/>
### Our Alappuzha eco friendly houseboat
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/our-alappuzha-eco-friendly-houseboat
Location: Alappuzha, India
Date: 2017-10-12
Alappuzha's weather is tropical - hot and humid. The heavy rain and thunders of last night were replaced by a blue sky dotted with puffy white clouds. A perfect day for one highlight of our trip to the Kerala - the kettuvallam, otherwise known as a houseboat.
Most travellers visiting 'the Venice of the East' will take a scenic route in a traditional houseboat to explore the palm-fringed waters and picturesque villages. Starting around 12 noon, the converted barge complete with living space, bedroom(s), bathroom, kitchen, one or two oarsmen and a chef will navigate on the larger canals. Around 5-ish, the floating hotel will join hundreds of others and harbour for the night. In the morning, the ship will bring you back to the starting point for a checkout by 9:00 am.
## The ECO Alternative
Four thousand boathouses are registered with the government. That's a lot of traffic happening on the waterways. The growing tourism has created a load of waste and pollution affecting the local community. Their life is intimately connected to the water bodies. Thousands rely upon the backwaters for fishing, drinking, bathing, cooking or harvesting rice.
We opted for a more sustainable experience by choosing the only ECO package available in Alappuzha (locals called it Alleppey) according to its owner Antony. Let's explain the original concept.
## Canoe Through the Backwaters
We started by a lazy canoe ride cruising down the lakes, rivers and tiny canals which make up the idyllic backwaters of Alappuzha. The canals were so quiet. Larger and noisier vessels can't navigate in such small places.
The captain, Anil, paddled our shaded boat through the narrow canals and wider streams passing by schools, houses, shops and even temples. We enjoyed watching the natives carrying out their daily routines and living their way of life on the river banks. Anil's English was a bit broken, but he was attentive and allowed us a few breaks along the road to admire the wildlife or to jump off the embarcation to meet the village inhabitants.
We glided through the backwaters for 4 hours relaxing in our almost silent canoe. The rowing boat was a more serene and nature-friendly alternative compared to the motorised version. With just the sound of the paddle in our ears, we laid back and took in all the gorgeous and peaceful scenery - green padded fields, coconut tree plantations and fascinating villages. It was an unbelievable experience.
## The Solar-Powered Houseboat
After the canoe tour concluded, we arrived at the ECO-houseboat. Made of bamboo ceilings and wooden floors the traditional houseboat was docked on its own at the river bank. The unique bedroom was charming with a private echo toilet and shower. The living space was big enough to accommodate four guests.
Our kettuvallam, meaning 'boat with knots, wasn't moving. Lights and basic appliances were powered by solar panels. So no engine or generator was needed. That's the fundamental idea behind the ECO-concept.
Johnson, the chef, was busy preparing a home-cooked lunch. He brought us a welcome drink and invited us to relax. With wooden furniture and a simple decoration, the place was full of charm. Garlic smell was filling the air. Lunchtime was getting closer! The seafood and perfectly cooked vegetables were delightful. The bellies full of food, we had to rest before the next activity. We climbed up on the decked balcony at the roof level and fell asleep.
## Kayaking at Sunset
After the nap and few cooked bananas, we boarded a two seaters kayak for more exploration of the backwaters. Anil, our morning guide, showed us the way and let us paddle tandem freely for 2 hours. Massive houseboats were passing by us as they were heading back to their docking platform. Tourists waved at us. We didn't. We were paddling! Sorry.
After effort comes comfort. The dinner was ready! Johnson cooked us another delightful meal in traditional Kerala style. We feasted on vegetables and chicken curries enjoying the gentle breeze and the dark surrounding our boat - lost in the middle of nowhere. Meantime it started down pouring. Raining cats and dogs. Lightning and thunder. Comfortably installed in the sofa, we watched and called it a day...
ECO Package: Look for eco-friendly houseboats with solar panels, no generators, and stationary docking. Ask operators about their environmental practices. Traditional motor houseboats pollute the backwaters."
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Cost: ECO packages cost ₹8,000-12,000 ($100-150) for 2 people including canoe/kayak tours, meals, and overnight stay. Regular houseboats cost ₹6,000-10,000 but pollute more."
},
{
icon: "Calendar",
text: "Best Time: October to March offers pleasant weather (25-30°C). Avoid monsoon season (June-September) when backwaters flood. Book 2-3 weeks in advance for peak season."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Timing: Regular houseboats: Check-in 12pm, cruise until 5pm, dock overnight, depart 9am. ECO boats: Often include 4-hour canoe tours and 2-hour kayak sessions at different times."
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Food Included: Most packages include welcome drinks, lunch, snacks, dinner, and breakfast. Meals are traditional Kerala cuisine - seafood curries, vegetables, rice. Inform about dietary restrictions in advance."
},
{
icon: "Backpack",
text: "What to Bring: Sunscreen, hat, sunglasses, light clothing, swimwear, insect repellent, camera, and any medications. Nights can be cool so bring a light jacket."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Photography: Best shots during 4-hour canoe ride through narrow canals. Villages, temples, tea plantations, and local life make great subjects. Respectfully ask permission before photographing people."
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Weather: Tropical climate - expect afternoon rain showers even in dry season. Thunderstorms are spectacular from the houseboat. The covered boat keeps you dry and comfortable."
},
{
icon: "Wifi",
text: "Connectivity: Limited phone signal in remote backwaters. Embrace the digital detox. Most houseboats don't have WiFi - use this time to disconnect and relax."
},
{
icon: "Heart",
text: "Local Interaction: Canoe tours allow stops at villages. Chat with locals, visit coir-making units, watch toddy tapping. ECO tours support local communities more than motorized cruises."
},
{
icon: "Bug",
text: "Leeches Alert: If visiting tea plantations or walking in wet areas, watch for leeches. They're harmless but unpleasant. Wear closed shoes and long pants. Salt or lemon juice makes them detach."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Booking: Book through reputable operators or your hotel. Verify what's included (tours, meals, activities). Read reviews about cleanliness and food quality. Antony's ECO Houseboat is highly recommended for sustainability."
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you experienced Kerala's backwaters? Would you choose an eco-friendly houseboat over a traditional motor one? What's your most memorable sustainable travel experience?*
### Alappuzha and Marari Beach
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/alappuzha-and-marari-beach
Location: Alappuzha, India
Date: 2017-10-11
We went down to Alappuzha Beach and found hundreds of crabs scurrying around the sandy shore - a whole crab army hiding in holes and crawling away as we approached. The beach itself was nice enough, but a massive highway under construction near the shore made the local area somewhat unattractive. We didn't stay long.
Besides, we had a mission.
## The Houseboat Hunt
Alappuzha, also known as Alleppey, is worldwide famous for its backwaters, and we couldn't wait to book the perfect houseboat experience. We headed to the docks along the canal, trying to find a good deal for what is quintessential Kerala tourism.
The scene at the docks was overwhelming. Many houseboats were nestled close together, side by side and one behind the other, moored along the canal. Touts immediately descended on us - "Best houseboat! AC! Fresh seafood! Special price for you!" We politely deflected and wandered along the waterfront, comparing options.
Kerala houseboat tariffs range dramatically - from ₹6,000 for a single-bedroom basic boat to a whopping ₹30,000 for a luxury 8-bedroom vessel. After visiting several operators and comparing offerings, we realized that most deals were very similar in structure: boats just differed in age, luxury level, and environmental practices.
The standard package works like this: Starting around 12 noon, your houseboat embarks on a circular route through the lakes and canals until 5pm. You cruise slowly, watching village life along the waterways, spotting birds, enjoying the scenery. The floating hotel then moors for the evening. Dinner is served on board. You sleep on the boat. In the morning, a quick journey brings you back to town by 9am.
## The Eco-Friendly Choice
Conscious of the environmental impact these boats have on the fragile backwater ecosystem - diesel pollution, waste disposal, damage to water quality - we elected to find a more eco-friendly experience.
After extensive research and negotiations, we found an operator offering solar-powered houseboats with proper waste management systems. It cost slightly more (₹8,500 for our two-person boat), but knowing we'd minimize our environmental footprint made it worth it. They guaranteed fresh seafood cooked on board, comfortable bedding, and a knowledgeable crew who could explain the ecosystem.
Booking confirmed for tomorrow! We'd finally experience the Kerala backwaters properly.
## Marari Beach
With our houseboat sorted, we had the rest of the afternoon free. We jumped in an auto-rickshaw to explore Marari Beach, about 11 kilometers north of Alappuzha.
The ride took 30 minutes through small fishing villages, coconut plantations, and narrow lanes. Our driver was lovely - chatty, informative, proud of his Kerala heritage. We asked him to wait and bring us back to the hotel later. He agreed happily for a total fare of ₹500 including waiting time.
Marari Beach was a revelation. Unlike touristy Alappuzha Beach with its construction chaos, Marari felt undeveloped and a bit of a secret. The coast stretched pristine and quiet - clean sand, gentle waves, fishing boats painted in bright colors pulled up on shore.
A perfect spot to unwind. We walked barefoot along the water's edge for ages. A few local fishermen worked with their nets. Some backpackers lounged under coconut palms. But mostly, we had the beach to ourselves.
## Sunset and Seafood
As the afternoon faded, we found a tiny beachfront restaurant - basically a shack with plastic chairs and tables in the sand. The menu was simple: whatever fish had been caught that morning, prepared however you wanted it.
We ordered fresh catch grilled with Kerala spices, prawn curry with coconut, rice, and vegetable thoran (a Kerala stir-fry). The food was to die for - simple, fresh, perfectly seasoned. The seafood tasted like it had been swimming hours earlier (which it probably had).
As we ate, the sun began its descent over the Arabian Sea. The sky transformed into an artist's palette - orange, pink, purple, gold. The fishing boats silhouetted against the sunset. The coconut palms swayed gently. This was Kerala at its most beautiful.
Our driver waited patiently, chatting with the restaurant owner. When we finally finished - stuffed and sun-drunk - he drove us back to Alappuzha through the gathering darkness. Rice paddies glowed in the twilight. Stars appeared overhead. Temple bells rang in the distance.
Back at our hotel, we collapsed into bed, satisfied and excited. Tomorrow we'd wake early for our houseboat adventure through the backwaters. But tonight, we fell asleep to the memory of that perfect Marari sunset.
Houseboat Prices: Basic ₹6000-10000, mid-range ₹10000-15000, luxury ₹15000-30000. Depends on size (1-8 bedrooms), AC, facilities. Book direct at docks for best prices vs. pre-booking online. Negotiate!"
},
{
icon: "Leaf",
text: "Eco-Friendly Houseboats: Look for solar-powered boats, proper waste disposal, no diesel pollution. Cost ₹1000-3000 extra but worth it! Backwaters fragile ecosystem. Ask operators about environmental practices before booking."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Houseboat Schedule: Standard: Board 12pm, cruise till 5pm, moor for night, return 9am next day. Longer trips available (2-3 days). Peak season (Nov-Feb) book 1 week ahead. Off-season can negotiate same-day."
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Food Included: Most houseboats include lunch, snacks, dinner, breakfast. Kerala cuisine - fish curry, prawns, coconut-based dishes. Specify dietary requirements. Alcohol usually extra (₹500-2000 depending on boat)."
},
{
icon: "Users",
text: "Negotiation Tips: Compare 3-5 boats. Prices flexible especially off-season. Ask to see boat before booking. Check cleanliness, working facilities. Avoid touts - go to docks directly. Fixed price boats = less hassle."
},
{
icon: "Beach",
text: "Alappuzha Beach: 2km from town center. Construction ongoing (2017). Hundreds of crabs! Lighthouse, pier. Better beaches nearby (Marari). Good for evening walk but not worth long visit."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Marari Beach: 11km north, 30min auto (₹150-200 one-way, ₹400-600 return with waiting). Pristine, undeveloped, quiet. Better for relaxation than Alappuzha Beach. Few beach shacks. Best sunset spot!"
},
{
icon: "Car",
text: "Auto-Rickshaw Hire: ₹500-600 for half-day with waiting. Cheaper than multiple trips. Drivers knowledgeable, friendly. Negotiate upfront including waiting time. Some speak good English. Nice way to explore."
},
{
icon: "Fish",
text: "Marari Seafood: Beach shacks serve fresh catch. ₹300-600 for full meal with fish/prawns. Simple preparation - grilled, curry, fried. Authentic Kerala flavors. Better than touristy Alappuzha restaurants. Ask what's fresh today!"
},
{
icon: "Sun",
text: "Best Time to Visit: Sunset at Marari 6-6:30pm Oct-March. Morning beach walk cooler (7-9am). Midday hot (30-35°C). Monsoon June-Sept rough seas, many restaurants closed."
},
{
icon: "Wallet",
text: "Daily Budget: Accommodation ₹1500-3000, houseboat ₹6000-15000 (one-time), meals ₹500-800, transport ₹300-500, miscellaneous ₹200. Total ₹2500-5000/day plus houseboat. Kerala pricier than North India."
},
{
icon: "Calendar",
text: "How Long in Alappuzha: 2-3 days ideal: Day 1 arrive/explore. Day 2 houseboat experience. Day 3 Marari Beach/departure. Could extend for cooking classes, village tours, Kumarakom bird sanctuary."
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you visited Alappuzha? Did you choose an eco-friendly houseboat? Which beach did you prefer - Alappuzha or Marari?*
### Heading for Alappuzha
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/heading-alappuzha
Location: Alappuzha, India
Date: 2017-10-10
We were back at Goa's Dabolim Airport via local bus for two consecutive flights that would take us to Kerala - India's southwestern coastal state known for its palm-lined beaches, tranquil backwaters, and rich cultural heritage. Our destination: Alappuzha, known as the 'Venice of the East' and famous for its backwaters, traditional houseboats, and magnificent natural beauty.
## The Journey South
The local bus from Bogmalo Beach to the airport cost just ₹15 and took 10 minutes. We'd become quite efficient at navigating Goa's public transport system.
Our first flight took us from Goa to Mumbai - just an hour northeast. A short layover at Mumbai's chaotic domestic terminal, then we boarded the second flight southwest to Kochi (also known as Cochin), Kerala's largest city and main transport hub.
As we descended into Kochi, the landscape transformed dramatically. The dry, rocky terrain of Karnataka gave way to lush tropical greenery. Palm trees everywhere. Rice paddies glowing impossibly green. Networks of waterways and canals snaking through the landscape - the famous Kerala backwaters we'd come to experience.
## Landing in God's Own Country
Kerala proudly calls itself "God's Own Country," and from the air, you could see why. Everything was green - emerald rice paddies, coconut groves, rubber plantations, spice gardens. The Western Ghats mountains rose in the distance, covered in jungle. The Arabian Sea sparkled along the coast.
We landed at Kochi International Airport in the late afternoon. The air felt different here - more humid, more tropical, fresher than the dusty plains of Hampi or even coastal Goa. The smell of spices and flowers seemed to permeate everything.
## To Alappuzha
From Kochi airport, we took a prepaid taxi for the 55-kilometer journey south to Alappuzha (also spelled Alleppey - the British colonial name). The drive took about 90 minutes through quintessential Kerala scenery.
We passed through small towns with Portuguese and Dutch colonial architecture - reminders that Kerala's coast had been a crucial spice trade hub for centuries. We saw coconut vendors selling fresh toddy (palm wine), fishermen mending nets, women in colorful saris, and an astonishing number of communist party flags (Kerala is one of the few places where a communist government has been democratically elected repeatedly).
As we entered Alappuzha, we started seeing what we'd come for - the backwaters. Canals paralleled the roads. Traditional rice barges slowly motored past. Massive houseboats - Kerala's famous kettuvallam - were moored along the banks.
## Arrival and Rest
We checked into our hotel exhausted from the day of travel - local bus, two flights, long taxi ride. We freshened up and collapsed onto the beds. Tomorrow we'd explore Alappuzha properly and book our houseboat experience. But tonight, we just needed sleep.
From our hotel window, we could see a canal. Palm trees swayed in the evening breeze. The air smelled of coconut and curry leaves. Somewhere in the distance, we could hear temple bells and traditional Kerala music.
We'd made it to Kerala - the final state on our Indian adventure before eventually heading back north. And tomorrow, we'd discover why Alappuzha's backwaters are considered one of the most beautiful places in all of India.
Flight Route: Goa → Mumbai → Kochi. Or Goa → Bangalore → Kochi. Total 3-5 hours with layover. Direct Goa-Kochi sometimes available (check IndiGo, SpiceJet). Book 2-3 weeks ahead: ₹4000-8000 return."
},
{
icon: "Car",
text: "Kochi to Alappuzha: 55km, 90min drive. Prepaid taxi ₹1500-2000 from airport. Cheaper: local bus to Kochi city (₹100), then bus to Alappuzha (₹50, 2 hours). Private taxi convenient after long flight!"
},
{
icon: "Train",
text: "Alternative by Train: Goa to Alappuzha by train possible but LONG (16-20 hours, multiple changes). Flights faster and often cheaper when booked ahead. Train only if you love Indian railways!"
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Alappuzha Overview: Also called Alleppey. 'Venice of the East' with canals, backwaters, houseboats. Gateway to Kerala backwater tours. Beach also available. Base for Kumarakom, Kottayam day trips."
},
{
icon: "Home",
text: "Accommodation: Budget ₹800-2000 (guesthouses), mid-range ₹2000-5000 (hotels with AC), luxury ₹5000-15000 (resorts/heritage homes). Book near North Canal or Beach Road for convenient location."
},
{
icon: "Calendar",
text: "Best Time: Oct-March ideal (25-30°C, dry). Monsoon June-Sept (heavy rain, lush but wet). April-May hot (35°C+). Famous Nehru Trophy boat race in August (monsoon but spectacular!)."
},
{
icon: "Landmark",
text: "Why 'Venice of East': Network of canals, lagoons, lakes. Built on land between Arabian Sea and Vembanad Lake. Historically major rice trade port. Now houseboat tourism capital. Still has working cargo boats!"
},
{
icon: "Ship",
text: "Houseboat Preview: Traditional kettuvallam (rice barges) converted to floating hotels. Range ₹6000-30,000/night depending on size/luxury. Cruise backwaters 12pm-5pm, moor for dinner/night, return morning. Book in advance!"
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Kerala Cuisine: Different from North India! Coconut-based curries, seafood, appam (rice pancakes), puttu (steamed rice cake), toddy (palm wine). Try fish molee, prawn curry, beef fry. Delicious!"
},
{
icon: "Leaf",
n: "Environment:",
text: "Eco-Awareness: Backwaters facing pollution from houseboats. Look for eco-friendly options (solar-powered, proper waste disposal). Responsible tourism helps preserve this paradise. Ask about environmental practices!"
},
{
icon: "Language",
text: "Language: Malayalam spoken in Kerala (completely different from Hindi!). English widely understood in tourist areas. Learning 'Namaskaram' (hello) appreciated. Accent different - may need to speak slowly."
},
{
icon: "Flag",
text: "Kerala Politics: Communist government democratically elected (unique in India!). Red flags everywhere. Don't be alarmed - tourism welcomed! High literacy (94%), good healthcare, progressive policies. Fascinating history."
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you traveled to Kerala? How did you get from Goa to Alappuzha? What were your first impressions of Kerala's backwaters?*
### Back to Goa
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/back-goa
Location: Bogmalo, India
Date: 2017-10-09
We were leaving Hampi with the pre-booked auto-rickshaw waiting at the hotel's doorstep. The village would remain an unforgettable experience of our Indian trip. We would miss the kindness of its inhabitants, the amazing sunsets, and the breathtaking boulder-strewn landscapes. But the coast was calling us back.
## The Confusing Train
We took what was supposedly the 8:20am train to Vasco da Gama numbered 17603, which ended up being the 18047 leaving at 6:20pm. Apparently, both trains were the same train - just different numbers depending on... something. The Indian railway system works in mysterious ways. How would you guess? Even the station staff seemed confused when we asked for clarification.
This meant we had an unexpected full day to kill in Hospet. We stored our bags at the station (₹20 per bag) and wandered the town, finding a cafe with WiFi to plan the next leg of our journey to Kerala. Not the worst way to spend an unplanned day.
## The Long Journey
When the train finally arrived and departed (only 30 minutes late - pretty good!), we settled into our AC-2 Tier cabin. We spent 9 hours sharing the 4 berths with a Polish couple. They were calm and quiet, which allowed us to rest for most of the journey. The whole carriage was extremely quiet - a definite advantage of being in an AC-2 Tier coach rather than sleeper class.
The train stopped many times in the middle of nowhere for no apparent reasons, turning our scheduled 9-hour journey into 11 hours. But we were comfortably settled with our books, snacks, and the rhythmic rocking of the train, so we didn't mind too much. We read, slept, and demolished a load of biscuits we'd stockpiled in Dabolim before heading to Hampi.
## The Trash Incident
Before reaching our destination, a somewhat shocking moment occurred. Kro went looking for a bin to dispose of our rubbish accumulated during the long journey - empty biscuit packets, water bottles, food wrappers. A train employee saw him searching and gently took the bag from him... and threw it through the open door onto the tracks.
That's the Indian way, apparently. We were shocked. All that careful waste management, looking for proper disposal, and it just gets thrown out the window (literally). It explained why India's railways and roadsides are often lined with trash. The systemic lack of waste infrastructure is one of India's most visible environmental challenges.
## Back to Bogmalo
We finally made it to Vasco da Gama station around 5:30pm. Dodging all the aggressive taxi drivers ("Best price! Where you going? Taxi taxi!"), we boarded an old and rusty local bus to Bogmalo Beach.
The public transport was incredibly cheap in Goa. ₹15 each for the 20-minute ride. We noticed locals paid only ₹10 - the "tourist tax" of ₹5 extra seemed to be standard practice. Still, compared to the rickshaws and taxis (₹200-300 for the same journey) we'd experienced a few days earlier, it was a bargain.
Finding the buses was easy. We simply followed the crowd leaving the train station and boarded the bus where the driver's assistant was shouting rhythmically: "Airport, Airport! Bogmalo Beach, Bogmalo, Bogmalo!" The Indian transport tout's call and response system works remarkably well.
## Celebrating with Seafood
To end our somewhat uneventful but long travel day, and to celebrate returning to the coast after inland Hampi, we indulged ourselves with an incredible seafood platter at [Claudis Corner](https://www.tripadvisor.in/Restaurant_Review-g1092070-d2630112-Reviews-Claudis_Corner-Bogmalo_South_Goa_District_Goa.html).
The restaurant was highly ranked by both tourists and locals. Our waiters were from Nepal - we'd learned that many staff working in Goa's hospitality industry are Nepalis who travel south for seasonal work.
The food was spectacular. Fresh prawns grilled with garlic butter, fish curry with coconut, crab masala, calamari, and lobster tail. Everything tasted like it had been pulled from the Arabian Sea that very morning (which it probably had been). We finished our Kingfisher beers - that famous Goan beer we'd been denied in Hampi Bazaar.
The bill came to ₹2400 - our most expensive dinner so far on this trip. But after days of simple vegetarian food in Hampi, and to celebrate the incredible experience we'd just had, it felt absolutely worth it.
We walked back to our apartment along the quiet beach, full and happy, already planning tomorrow's flight to Kerala and the backwaters of Alappuzha. The moon reflected off the calm Arabian Sea. Fishing boats bobbed at anchor. Goa had welcomed us back.
Train Confusion: Indian trains often have multiple numbers/names. 17603/18047 same train, different designation. Check platform departure boards, not just ticket number. Staff can clarify. Delays common - build buffer time!"
},
{
icon: "Ticket",
text: "AC-2 Tier: ₹500-900 vs Sleeper ₹200-300. AC-2 = air-conditioned, quieter, cleaner, bedding included. Worth upgrade for long journeys. Book 2-3 weeks ahead - popular route. IRCTC website or Clear Trip app."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Journey Time: Scheduled 9 hours often becomes 10-12 hours. Trains stop unexpectedly. Rarely on time. Morning departure reaches evening. Overnight reaches morning. Pack entertainment (books, downloaded movies)!"
},
{
icon: "Backpack",
text: "Journey Snacks: Bring own food/water. Train vendors sell chai, samosas, meals but limited choice. Biscuits, fruit, nuts essential. Water bottles (1-2L per person). Thermos for chai if desired."
},
{
icon: "Trash",
text: "Waste Reality: Shocking but true - trash thrown from trains is common practice. No onboard bins/disposal system. Contributes to India's litter problem. Keep trash in bag but expect staff to toss it. Systemic infrastructure issue."
},
{
icon: "Bus",
text: "Vasco to Bogmalo: Local bus ₹10-15, 20min. Departs from outside station. Driver assistant shouts destination. Crowded but cheap. Taxi/auto ₹200-300. Bus runs 6am-10pm. Last bus ~9:30pm."
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Claudis Corner: Excellent seafood in Bogmalo. Fresh catch daily. Prawns ₹400-600, fish curry ₹300-500, crab ₹600-900, lobster ₹1200+. Expensive but worth it! Book ahead evenings (popular). Nepali staff, great service."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Bogmalo Strategic Base: Perfect transit hub. Close to airport (4km), train station (8km), beaches (walk). Good for Kerala flights or return journeys. Less touristy than Agonda/Palolem. Practical rather than paradise."
},
{
icon: "Luggage",
text: "Station Storage: Hospet station has cloak room - ₹20-30 per bag per day. Useful if train delayed or early arrival. Most major Indian stations offer this. Keep valuables with you. Get receipt!"
},
{
icon: "Users",
text: "Cabin Sharing: AC-2 Tier = 4 berths (2 lower, 2 upper). May share with strangers. Usually fine - fellow travelers respectful. Families often book all 4. Curtains for privacy. Women-only compartments available if concerned."
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Tourist Bus Pricing: Locals pay less than foreigners on local buses (₹10 vs ₹15). Small 'tourist tax' accepted practice. Still cheap vs taxis. Don't argue - ₹5 difference = $0.07. Pick your battles!"
},
{
icon: "Calendar",
text: "Travel Timing: October good time - monsoon ended, not too hot yet. Trains less crowded than Nov-Feb peak season. Book ahead anyway. March-May brutal heat (40°C+). June-Sept monsoon = delays."
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you taken the Hampi to Goa train? Were you shocked by Indian waste management? What's your most memorable train journey in India?*
### Anjaneya Hill
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/anjaneya-hill
Location: Hampi, India
Date: 2017-10-08
For our last day in Hampi, we crossed the Tungabhadra River in a coracle boat maneuvered by a very young boy-boatman. The rounded boat, made of bamboo and shaped like a flat basket, was costly at ₹50 per person. Nevertheless, the 3-minute spinning ride was worth every penny - bobbing and turning in the current as the boy expertly navigated us across.
## The Other Side of Hampi
Many tourists rent a motorcycle to explore the other side of the river. We didn't. We preferred to wander on foot through the boulder-strewn landscape and explore this more laid-back side of Hampi at our own pace. The road was muddy due to some heavy rain the night before, but we were wearing good walking shoes that handled the conditions.
This side felt different from Hampi Bazaar - more relaxed, more international, more hippie vibes. Western cafes played Bob Marley, yoga studios advertised their classes, travelers lounged in hammocks between palm trees. It was still beautiful, surrounded by the same incredible boulders and ruins, just with a different energy.
One of the main attractions on this side of the river was Anjaneya Hill. We strolled in that direction, politely rejecting countless offers from tuk-tuk drivers along the way. "Anjaneya Hill! Very far! Very hot! Only ₹200!" We smiled and kept walking. It wasn't that far.
## Climbing to Hanuman's Birthplace
We arrived at the base of Anjaneya Hill and looked up at the white staircase zigzagging to the summit. 575 steps. In 36-degree heat. This was going to be a challenge.
We started climbing. The steps were uneven - some shallow, some steep, all carved into the rock or built from stone. We took our time, stopping frequently for water and to catch our breath. Other climbers passed us - young backpackers bounding up, elderly Indian pilgrims moving slowly but steadily, local kids running up and down like it was nothing.
About halfway up, the views started to get spectacular. We could see across the Tungabhadra River to Hampi Bazaar, the temples, the endless boulder fields. Higher we climbed, more landscape revealed itself.
At the top, we found the birthplace of Hanuman - the monkey warrior god from the Ramayana epic. A temple dedicated to him occupied the summit. Monkeys were everywhere, as fitting for Hanuman's birthplace. Jumping from rocks to trees. Eating bananas in the weirdest positions. Staring at us and eyeing our backpack with suspicious intent. We kept a firm grip on our belongings.
## The View from the Top
The view from the hilltop was absolutely postcard material - perhaps even better than Matanga Hill. Paddy rice fields in impossibly green shades, coconut plantations swaying in the breeze, ancient ruins scattered like children's toys, all surrounded by unconquerable hills made of millions of boulder heads stretching to the horizon.
We could see both sides of Hampi from here - the temple side and the hippie side, the sacred and the secular, ancient India and modern backpacker culture, all coexisting in this magical landscape.
After soaking up the spirituality of the holy temple and the incredible views, we carefully descended the 575 steps. Our knees were shaking by the bottom - going down is always harder than going up.
## Lunch at Laughing Buddha
For lunch, based on TripAdvisor reviews, we settled at the Laughing Buddha restaurant for its chilled-out atmosphere. We climbed up to the rooftop terrace and collapsed into cushioned seats.
We weren't sure if it was the view overlooking Hampi, the Bob Marley music playing in the background, or the psychedelic posters hanging on the walls, but the vibe was so relaxed we almost fell asleep. The food and drinks were more expensive than Hampi Bazaar side, but they did serve Kingfisher - Goa's famous beer - which had been forbidden on the temple side of the river.
We lingered over our meal, in no hurry to leave. This was our last afternoon in Hampi, and we wanted to savor every moment.
## Back Across the River
As we prepared to leave that hippie paradise, we discovered the small coracle boats weren't running anymore. Instead, a regular boat capable of ferrying up to 20 passengers was crossing the river. The price ranged from ₹20 to ₹30 depending on the mood of the boatmen and their assessment of how much they could extract from tourists.
We argued politely and paid ₹20 - the local price. Small victories.
## Final Visit to Virupaksha Temple
On the Hampi Bazaar side, we ventured once last time in and around the Virupaksha Temple. The sanctuary is the only active place of worship in Hampi and an important pilgrimage center for worshipers of Lord Shiva. Unlike the ruins scattered across the site, this temple pulsed with life - priests performing ceremonies, pilgrims making offerings, the smell of incense and flowers.
Lakshmi, the temple elephant we'd seen bathing yesterday morning, was wandering around the temple courtyard. Tourists paid ₹10 for her "blessing" - she'd tap their heads gently with her trunk. We watched but didn't participate, still conflicted about the elephant in captivity.
After a few selfies and being invited to join Indian families for their group photos (Westerners are sometimes as much an attraction as the temples!), we left the Virupaksha Temple through the 50-meter-high Gopuram - the monumental tower marking the entrance of the temple.
## Last Sunset in Hampi
To finish our final day, we climbed to the rooftop terrace of our guest house one last time. We ordered cold drinks and settled in to witness the whimsical sunset over the temples, the rocky river, and the heritage village.
As the sun descended and the boulders began to glow, we reflected on our time in Hampi. This place had exceeded all expectations - more beautiful, more magical, more overwhelming than we'd imagined. Tomorrow we'd board the train back to Goa, but Hampi would stay with us forever.
The sky turned from orange to pink to purple. The last light faded from the boulders. Stars began to appear in the darkening sky. We sat in comfortable silence, grateful to have experienced this extraordinary place.
Coracle Boats: Traditional round bamboo boats ₹20-50 per person. 3min crossing, spinning ride fun! Operate sunrise to sunset. Young boys often operate them - tip appreciated. Sit still - they tip easily!"
},
{
icon: "Mountain",
text: "Anjaneya Hill Climb: 575 white steps to summit. 20-30min climb depending on fitness. Steep and uneven. Start early morning (6-7am) to avoid heat. Bring water! Sunrise from top is spectacular."
},
{
icon: "Monkey",
text: "Monkeys: MANY monkeys at Anjaneya Hill (Hanuman's birthplace). Aggressive about food. Don't feed them. Guard backpacks - they'll unzip and steal. Don't show food or they'll snatch it. Respect but be cautious!"
},
{
icon: "Eye",
text: "Views from Summit: 360° panorama of Hampi. See both sides of river, rice paddies, boulder fields, all major temples. Best views in all Hampi. Worth the climb! Bring camera with wide lens."
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Laughing Buddha: Popular hippie cafe across river. Rooftop terrace, chill vibe, Bob Marley music. Serves meat, beer, Western food (forbidden on Bazaar side). Pricier: ₹300-600 for meal. Great views!"
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Across-River Attractions: Anjaneya Hill, Hippie Island cafes, Sanapur Lake (cliff jumping!), rice paddy walks, sunset viewpoints. More relaxed, Western vibe. Accommodation ₹500-2000/night."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Timing: Allow 3-4 hours: coracle ride (10min), walk to hill (20min), climb (30min), summit time (30min), descent (20min), lunch/cafe (1 hour), walk back (20min), boat return (10min)."
},
{
icon: "Ferry",
text: "Regular Boat: When coracles don't run (rough water, after hours), large boat operates. ₹20-30/person. Holds 20+. Bargain! Locals pay ₹20, tourists often quoted ₹50. Stand firm."
},
{
icon: "Temple",
text: "Virupaksha Temple: Only active temple in Hampi. Free entry (donation box). 50m gopuram (entrance tower). Lakshmi elephant gives blessings (₹10-50). Remove shoes inside. Worth visiting early morning for pujas."
},
{
icon: "Footprints",
text: "Walking vs Scooter: Other side is walkable - most attractions within 2-3km. Muddy after rain. Scooter ₹300-400/day if you want freedom to explore further (Sanapur, Anegundi). Walking more peaceful!"
},
{
icon: "Sun",
text: "Best Time to Cross: Morning (7-9am) for Anjaneya sunrise climb. Late afternoon (4-5pm) to explore cafes/sunset spots. Avoid midday heat. Last boats 6-6:30pm - don't miss it or expensive taxi ride!"
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Photography: Coracle boats photogenic (get someone to shoot from shore). Anjaneya Hill sunrise/sunset both excellent. Rice paddy reflections at golden hour. 360° panorama from summit needs wide lens/panorama mode."
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you climbed Anjaneya Hill? Did you experience the coracle boat ride? What was your favorite moment in Hampi?*
### Hampi temples
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/hampi-temples
Location: Hampi, India
Date: 2017-10-07
We were still at Hampi - this remarkable hamlet in Karnataka (not Kerala!) and UNESCO World Heritage Site that feels like stepping into another world. Today we'd explore the temples and monuments that make Hampi one of India's most spectacular archaeological sites.
## Morning at the River
Dozens of people went down to the Tungabhadra River bank for their morning routine - washing their clothes, bathing, or performing their ritual prayer or 'puja'. We followed them, not to bathe but to admire the boulder-strewn landscape, the temple flanked by the river, and the many deities carved out in the stones. The scenery was postcard material - golden morning light illuminating the massive boulders, the ancient temple towers reflected in the calm water.
We met a few pilgrims and exchanged words about our lives and what brought us to Hampi. They were surprised to meet Europeans in such a remote place. We explained we'd come all the way from Belgium specifically to see Hampi. They seemed pleased that their holy site attracted visitors from so far away.
Around 7:30am, Lakshmi - the temple elephant - passed by us for his morning shower in the Tungabhadra River. Each day, the old pachyderm walks down from Virupaksha Temple and dips in the water for the amusement of tourists and locals alike. The elephant seemed to enjoy the cool water, spraying himself with his trunk while handlers scrubbed his massive sides.
Not being fans of wild animals kept captive for religious or tourist purposes, we had mixed feelings about that ancestral practice. Lakshmi appeared well-cared for, but an elephant belongs in the wild, not performing in a temple.
## Temple Hopping by Scooter
We skipped the tour guide offers and rented a scooter to explore, at our own pace, the surroundings and the many temples scattered across the 26-square-kilometer site. At ₹400 for the day, it was the perfect way to cover ground while still being able to stop whenever something caught our eye.
We drove through the ruins and enjoyed the singular boulder landscape that makes Hampi so charming - millions of granite boulders stacked in seemingly impossible arrangements, temples nestled between them, all glowing golden in the strong sunlight.
We stopped to explore the most spectacular monuments in the Royal Center:
The **Elephant Stables** - a long building with 11 massive domed chambers where the Vijayanagara Empire kept its ceremonial elephants. The Indo-Islamic architecture was beautifully preserved, each dome unique in design.
The **Lotus Mahal** - an elegant two-story pavilion with cusped arches and delicate stonework, supposedly where the queen and her ladies-in-waiting relaxed. The building gets its name from its lotus-bud-like shape when viewed from above.
The **Queen's Bath** - a massive square water pavilion where royalty once bathed. Hard to imagine this now-empty pool filled with perfumed water and flowers.
## Vitthala Temple: The Crown Jewel
Going far east, we ended at the Vitthala Temple complex - absolutely the crown jewel of all Hampi's temples. Even partially ruined, it's breathtaking.
The famous **Stone Chariot** stands in the courtyard - an ornate shrine built in the shape of a temple chariot with carved stone wheels. It's become the iconic symbol of Hampi, appearing on currency notes and in countless photographs. Up close, the detail is extraordinary - every surface covered in intricate carvings.
Inside the main hall, we discovered the **Musical Pillars** - 56 pillars that produce different musical notes when tapped gently. Each pillar was carved from a single piece of stone and produces a distinct tone. A guard demonstrated, creating a simple melody. Apparently, the British tried to saw into the pillars to discover the secret of the sound, causing some damage before being stopped.
The entire complex - despite being over 500 years old and partially destroyed by invading armies - retained an aura of grandeur. You could imagine processions of elephants, musicians playing those stone pillars, priests performing elaborate ceremonies for the Vijayanagara kings.
## Sunset from Matanga Hill
Later that day, as the temperature began to drop from its midday peak, we hiked up Matanga Hill - the tallest point in Hampi and therefore the best place to enjoy the sunset.
The hike wasn't easy - 30 minutes of steep stone steps in the heat - but absolutely worthy. As we climbed, the views expanded with each step. At the top, a small temple dedicated to Lord Rama sat on the rocky summit.
We found spots on the boulders and waited for the sun to descend. As the light changed, the entire landscape transformed. We soaked up the scenery - Hindu temples amongst millions of boulder heaps, the Tungabhadra River winding through rice paddies, the ruins of the ancient city stretching in every direction.
Other tourists and local families gathered on the summit, all silently watching as the sun painted the boulders orange, then pink, then deep purple. Monkeys hopped from rock to rock. The wind picked up as the temperature dropped.
There was no better way to end the day - perched atop Matanga Hill, watching one of the world's greatest archaeological sites fade into twilight.
As darkness fell, we carefully descended the steps by headlamp, exhausted but exhilarated. Tomorrow would be our last morning in Hampi before crossing the river to explore the other side and climb Anjaneya Hill.
Scooter Rental: ₹300-500/day from shops in Hampi Bazaar. Scooters better than bicycles for covering the huge site. Petrol ₹90-100/liter. Bring international driving permit! Helmets required."
},
{
icon: "Ticket",
text: "Entry Tickets: Foreigners ₹600 for main monuments (Zenana Enclosure, Elephant Stables, etc.). Vitthala Temple complex separate ₹500. Many temples free. Combined ticket worth it. Valid 1 day only."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Must-See Temples: Vitthala Temple (Stone Chariot, Musical Pillars), Virupaksha Temple (active worship), Lotus Mahal, Elephant Stables, Queen's Bath, Hazara Rama Temple. Allow full day to see highlights."
},
{
icon: "Mountain",
text: "Matanga Hill Sunset: 30min climb, 300+ steps. Best sunset viewpoint in Hampi. Arrive 5pm for sunset 6-6:30pm. Bring water, headlamp for descent. Can get crowded - go early for good boulder spot!"
},
{
icon: "Elephant",
text: "Lakshmi the Elephant: Temple elephant bathes daily 7:30am at river. Photo opportunity but consider ethics of captive elephants. 'Blessings' cost ₹10-50. Elephant well-treated but still captivity."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Best Times: Start early (6-7am) before heat peaks. Temples open sunrise to sunset. Matanga Hill sunrise also spectacular (6-7am). Midday (11am-3pm) brutally hot - siesta recommended!"
},
{
icon: "Sun",
text: "Heat Management: Oct temp 30-35°C. March-May can hit 40-45°C! Bring 2L water minimum. Hat essential. Sunscreen. Little shade among ruins. Take breaks. Heat exhaustion is real risk."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Photography: Golden hour (6-7am, 5:30-6:30pm) magical. Stone Chariot best photographed morning (sun behind you). Sunset from Matanga Hill or Hemakuta Hill. Tripod allowed. Drone BANNED (UNESCO site)."
},
{
icon: "Footprints",
text: "What to Wear: Comfortable walking shoes (rocky, uneven). Temples require modest dress - cover shoulders/knees. Remove shoes before entering temple sanctums. Bring socks for hot stones!"
},
{
icon: "Music",
text: "Musical Pillars: Vitthala Temple's 56 pillars produce musical notes when tapped. Guards demonstrate but ask politely (₹50-100 tip expected). DON'T tap hard - British damaged them trying to discover secret!"
},
{
icon: "Route",
text: "Suggested Route: Morning: Virupaksha Temple, Hemakuta Hill. Mid-morning: Royal Center (Elephant Stables, Lotus Mahal). Midday: Lunch break. Afternoon: Vitthala Temple. Evening: Matanga Hill sunset. 2-3 days to see everything!"
},
{
icon: "Book",
text: "History: Vijayanagara Empire capital (1336-1565 AD). Destroyed by Deccan Sultanates in 1565. Once one of world's richest cities. 500+ monuments remain. Second-largest medieval ruins after Angkor Wat."
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you visited Hampi's temples? Did you watch the sunset from Matanga Hill? Which was your favorite temple or monument?*
### Leaving Goa for Hampi
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/leaving-goa-hampi
Location: Hampi, India
Date: 2017-10-06
We packed our bags and set out toward Hampi - a place we'd been dreaming about since planning this India trip. Built on the ruins of Vijayanagara, the capital of one of India's greatest empires, and home to the esteemed Virupaksha Temple, one of the holiest sanctuaries in all of India, Hampi promised to be unlike anywhere we'd been before.
## The Train from Goa
We boarded the 7:10am Amaravati Express from Vasco da Gama Station, just a short auto-rickshaw ride from our Bogmalo guesthouse. The early morning start was worth it - we had the entire carriage almost to ourselves initially, able to spread out and enjoy the comfort of our berths.
The train was surprisingly empty until we reached Madgaon (the major railway junction we'd strategically positioned ourselves near). Then chaos erupted. Hundreds of passengers boarded simultaneously - vendors selling snacks and chai pushing through the aisles calling out their wares, tourists trying to find their seats with massive backpacks, railway staff performing their duties and checking tickets. A massive confusion filled the aisle.
We observed serenely from the comfort of our berths, munching on the biscuits we'd bought in Dabolim, watching India's incredible rail system in action. This is what Indian train travel is all about.
The journey normally takes 9 hours to complete the 341 kilometers - not particularly fast, but the scenery was fascinating. We watched the landscape transform from Goa's lush coconut groves to Karnataka's drier agricultural plains, then gradually to the rocky, boulder-studded terrain surrounding Hampi. We arrived late, but not by much - pretty good by Indian railway standards.
## Arrival in Hampi
Hospet Junction station was only 13 kilometers away from Hampi in the state of Karnataka. As we stepped off the train into the hot afternoon sun, we were greeted by a tuk-tuk driver sent by our guesthouse, the Gopi Guest House. He held a sign with our names written in slightly shaky English. It's always such a good feeling when someone is waiting for you with your name on a board - especially after a long journey.
The 30-minute tuk-tuk ride from Hospet to Hampi was our first glimpse of what makes this place so special. Massive granite boulders - some the size of houses - dotted the landscape in seemingly impossible stacks and arrangements. Ancient temple ruins appeared around every bend in the road. Rice paddies gave way to rocky terrain. This was a landscape unlike anything we'd seen.
As we entered Hampi Bazaar (the main village area), the 14th-century Virupaksha Temple towered ahead, its gopuram (entrance tower) rising above the simple shops and guesthouses lining the main street. History and modern daily life existing side by side.
## First Evening in Hampi
We checked into Gopi Guest House and climbed up to the terrace restaurant. The view was breathtaking - nearest ruins were visible from our table, backdropped by rocky hillocks glowing golden in the afternoon light. This was going to be special.
We enjoyed the vegetarian food (no meat or alcohol allowed on this side of the river) and our first sunset in Hampi. As the sun descended, the boulders seemed to catch fire - orange, then pink, then purple. Locals and tourists alike paused to watch. There's something magical about this place.
## Police Registration
After dinner, we strolled along the ruins toward the local police station. Apparently, foreign tourists are supposed to register with the police within 24 hours of arriving in Hampi - something to do with it being a sensitive archaeological zone. Few tourists seemed to care about the procedure, but we figured we'd follow the rules (especially after our scooter experience with the Goan police).
The police station was a small concrete building with ceiling fans spinning lazily. It was quite funny to see the inside of the premise - chaotic filing cabinets bursting with papers, officers drinking chai and chatting, a surprisingly bureaucratic process for such a small outpost.
We filled out forms and still had to answer many questions... about Belgium! The officer had never met anyone from Belgium before and was fascinated. "You speak French? You speak Dutch? Both? In the same country?" It turned into a delightful cross-cultural exchange rather than an intimidating bureaucratic procedure.
Papers duly stamped, we were officially registered guests of Hampi. Tomorrow we'd explore properly, but tonight we returned to our guesthouse, exhausted from the journey but excited for what lay ahead.
From our rooftop, we could hear music drifting from across the river - the other side of Hampi where the hippie cafes and Western tourists congregated. But here in Hampi Bazaar, surrounded by ancient temples and local families, we felt we'd made the right choice of where to stay.
Train Route: Vasco da Gama/Madgaon to Hospet Junction. Amaravati Express or Hampi Express. 9-10 hours, 341km. Sleeper ₹200-300, AC ₹500-900. Book 2-3 weeks ahead! Train reaches Hospet, then 13km to Hampi."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Journey Time: Expect delays - Indian railways rarely run exactly on schedule. Build in buffer time. Morning trains arrive late afternoon. Overnight trains arrive morning. 9-10 hours typical."
},
{
icon: "Car",
text: "Hospet to Hampi: 13km, 30min. Auto-rickshaw ₹150-250. Taxi ₹300-400. Many guesthouses offer free pickup if you book ahead and send train details. Local bus ₹20 but infrequent."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Hampi Layout: Two main areas: Hampi Bazaar (temple side, quiet, vegetarian, alcohol-free) and Virupapur Gaddi/Sanapur (across river, hippie vibe, cafes, chill). Ferry ₹20, stops at sunset!"
},
{
icon: "FileText",
text: "Police Registration: Technically required within 24 hours for foreigners. Police station near Virupaksha Temple. Bring passport, accommodation details. Quick process. Not strictly enforced but recommended."
},
{
icon: "Landmark",
text: "UNESCO Site: Hampi is Vijayanagara Empire ruins (14th-16th century). 500+ monuments across 26 sq km. Second-largest medieval-era city ruins after Angkor Wat. Allow 2-3 days minimum to explore."
},
{
icon: "Home",
text: "Where to Stay: Hampi Bazaar: cheaper (₹500-1500), closer to temples, quiet nights, vegetarian-only. Across river: ₹1000-3000, Western food, music, later nights, better views. Choose based on vibe preference!"
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Food Restrictions: Hampi Bazaar side: NO MEAT, NO ALCOHOL (religious/archaeological zone). Vegetarian thalis ₹80-150, dosas, curries. Across river: everything available including meat/beer. Plan accordingly!"
},
{
icon: "Ship",
text: "River Crossing: Coracle boats (round bamboo boats) ₹20 per person, operate sunrise to sunset. After dark: no boats! Must take long drive around (₹500-800 auto). Stay on side matching your evening plans."
},
{
icon: "Sun",
text: "Weather: Hampi is HOT! Oct-Feb: 25-35°C. March-May: 35-45°C (brutal). June-Sept: monsoon, slippery rocks. Nov-Feb best time. Bring hat, sunscreen, water bottle. Little shade among ruins."
},
{
icon: "Bike",
text: "Getting Around: Rent bicycle (₹50-100/day) or scooter (₹300-400/day). Ruins spread over huge area. Walking possible but exhausting in heat. Bicycles most popular - flat terrain, scenic rides."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Photography: Golden hour (6-7am, 5:30-6:30pm) is magical - boulders glow orange/pink. Climb Matanga Hill for sunrise, Hemakuta Hill for sunset. Bring good camera - Hampi is photographer's paradise!"
}
]}
/>
*Have you traveled from Goa to Hampi? Which side of the river did you stay on? Did you register with the police?*
### Heading to North Goa
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/heading-north-goa
Location: Bogmalo, India
Date: 2017-10-05
We left, not without regrets, the JoJo Lapa Agonda resort. After three blissful days, it was hard to say goodbye. No beggars, no touts, no ferocious arguments about the right price to pay - just three relaxing and rejuvenating days at one of coastal India's best-kept secrets. But Hampi was calling, and we needed to position ourselves for the journey ahead.
## Sunrise at Agonda: One Last Time
But before leaving, we couldn't resist one final experience of Agonda Beach. We woke before dawn and went running along the empty and secluded beach at sunrise. The sky transformed from deep blue to pink to orange as the sun climbed above the Arabian Sea. The sand was cool and firm from the night, perfect for running.
Running on sand was harder than we'd expected - each step sinking slightly, our calves working overtime. But we could cool off and refresh ourselves - and add some thrill - with quick dips in the strong waves that roll onto Agonda Beach. The lifeguards weren't on duty yet, so we stayed close to shore, but the water was invigorating.
Back at the resort, we ate a substantial breakfast of delicious wheat pancakes, fresh fruit, and strong coffee while contemplating the sandy beach and the coconut palms swaying in the sea breeze one last time. A few friendly stray dogs came by looking for scraps - our constant companions during our Agonda days. We took final photos and said our goodbyes to the staff who had been so welcoming.
Then we boarded the prepaid taxi and headed north.
## The Portuguese Coast
The drive from South Goa to North Goa took about an hour along coastal roads. The landscape told a fascinating story of Goa's unique history.
On the way, we spotted many Catholic crosses, convents, and churches - striking white-washed buildings with baroque architecture completely unlike anything we'd seen elsewhere in India. These remnants reminded us that Goa was a Portuguese colony for 450 years until it was annexed by India in 1961. Even today, about a quarter of Goa's 1.5 million people are Catholic rather than Hindu - a legacy of centuries of Portuguese rule.
We passed through small villages where the influence was even more obvious - Portuguese-style villas with terracotta roofs, crosses at intersections, and old stone churches. Street signs bore Portuguese names alongside English and Konkani. The cultural blend was fascinating.
## Bogmalo Beach: Strategic Location
We arrived at Bogmalo Beach in central Goa (despite the title, this isn't quite "North Goa" in the tourist sense - that would be Calangute, Baga, and Anjuna). The beach was smaller than Agonda or Palolem - just a kilometer-long curve of sand - but it had a crucial advantage: location.
Bogmalo sits just 4 kilometers from Goa International Airport and about 8 kilometers from Madgaon Railway Station. This made the area a strategic base for our next trips to Hampi and later to Kerala's backwaters in Alappuzha. We weren't here to relax on the beach - we'd had our fill of that in Agonda. We were here to position ourselves for our inland adventure.
The beach itself was pleasant enough - cleaner than many North Goa beaches, less crowded, with a few good beach shacks. We found a beautiful restaurant overlooking the water called [Joet's Bar and Restaurant](https://www.tripadvisor.in/Restaurant_Review-g1092070-d3165598-Reviews-Joet_s_Bar_And_Restaurant-Bogmalo_South_Goa_District_Goa.html) and indulged ourselves in good Goan dishes. Fish curry, prawn balchão, vegetable xacuti - the Goan-Portuguese fusion cuisine was delicious. Yummy indeed!
## Logistics and Preparation
After lunch, we faced some practical necessities. We were desperate to find an ATM (to pay for our guesthouse in cash) and a supermarket (to buy snacks for tomorrow's long train journey to Hampi). The guesthouse staff directed us to nearby Dabolim village, near the airport.
We jumped on a local bus - a colorful, crowded experience quite different from our prepaid taxis. The bus rattled along at maximum capacity, locals squeezing in at every stop, Hindi film music blaring from scratchy speakers. It cost about ₹15 and took 20 minutes what would have been a ₹200 taxi ride. Budget travel at its finest.
In Dabolim, we found both ATM and supermarket. With rupees in our wallets and a bag full of biscuits, chips, and bottled water for the train, we jumped on another local bus back to Bogmalo Beach.
The sun was setting as we arrived back at our guesthouse. We took a brief evening walk along Bogmalo Beach - much quieter than our beloved Agonda, but pleasant enough. Tomorrow would be an early start for the train to Hampi, so we retired early for a good night's sleep.
As we drifted off, we could hear the waves of the Arabian Sea one more night - though tomorrow would take us inland to the ancient ruins and boulder-strewn landscapes of Hampi.
Bogmalo Beach: Small 1km beach in central Goa. Less crowded than North Goa party beaches. Main advantage: 4km from airport, 8km from Madgaon train station. Perfect transit base!"
},
{
icon: "Plane",
text: "Airport Proximity: Dabolim Airport (Goa International) just 10min drive. Prepaid taxi ₹350-500. Auto-rickshaw ₹200-300. Early morning flights? Stay in Bogmalo. Cheapest airport-proximate accommodation!"
},
{
icon: "Train",
text: "Madgaon Station: Major railway hub 8km away. Trains to Hampi (via Hospet), Mumbai, Bangalore, Kerala. Auto to station ₹150-200. Train tickets book fast - reserve 2-3 weeks ahead!"
},
{
icon: "Bus",
text: "Local Buses: Cheap way to explore (₹10-25 rides). Vasco-Margao buses pass through Bogmalo. Crowded but authentic. Buses run 6am-10pm. Ask locals - schedules informal!"
},
{
icon: "Church",
text: "Portuguese Heritage: Goa has 400+ years Portuguese history. See Se Cathedral (Old Goa), Basilica of Bom Jesus, Fort Aguada. Catholic festivals (Christmas, Easter) celebrated big. Unique in India!"
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Dining: Joet's Bar (Goan seafood, great views). Full Moon Beach Resort (beachfront). Supermarket in Dabolim (5km) for train snacks. Less restaurant choice than South Goa tourist areas."
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "ATMs: Few ATMs in Bogmalo itself. Nearest in Dabolim village (4km) or Vasco da Gama (7km). Withdraw cash before arrival if possible. Many guesthouses cash-only!"
},
{
icon: "Home",
text: "Accommodation: Limited compared to Agonda/Palolem. Mostly guesthouses (₹1000-2500) and mid-range hotels (₹2500-5000). Full Moon Beach Resort, Coconut Creek popular. Book ahead Nov-Feb."
},
{
icon: "Sunrise",
text: "Beach Runs: Sunrise runs on Goa beaches magical! Best 6-7am before heat. Firm sand near water easier than soft sand. Watch for fishing boats. Lifeguards not on duty before 10am - swim carefully!"
},
{
icon: "Route",
text: "Agonda to Bogmalo: 45km, 1 hour drive. Prepaid taxi ₹1500-2000. Passes through Margao. Scenic route via Cabo de Rama Fort (add 30min, worth it). Local bus possible but multiple changes."
},
{
icon: "Calendar",
text: "Best Time: Nov-Feb ideal (dry, cool). Oct/March shoulder season (cheaper, fewer tourists). April-May too hot. June-Sept monsoon. Bogmalo less seasonal than tourist beaches - open year-round."
},
{
icon: "Backpack",
text: "Train Supplies: Long trains (8-12 hours) need snacks! Buy biscuits, chips, fruit, water bottles. Trains have food vendors but limited choice. Dabolim supermarket has good selection. Budget ₹300-500."
}
]}
/>
*Have you stayed in Bogmalo Beach? Did you notice Goa's Portuguese influence? What's your strategy for positioning between destinations?*
### Palolem Beach
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/palolem-beach
Location: Palolem, India
Date: 2017-10-04
We were awakened by the soothing sounds of Goa's lapping waves against the shore. As we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast by the beach at our resort, we spotted two traditional fishing boats in the bay, their nets cast wide. Were they fishing our dinner? The kingfish curry here was to die for.
After a relaxing day yesterday at Agonda Beach, we were ready for some exploration. We decided to hire a scooter to explore the beaches layered side-by-side along the South Goa coast. At ₹300 per day, the motorcycle was cheap and offered the perfect opportunity to get off the beaten track and see more than just our little slice of paradise.
## The Police Stop
Minutes into our journey along the coastal road, enjoying the wind in our faces and the Arabian Sea sparkling to our right, the Goan Police pulled us over.
"International Driving Licence, please."
Our hearts sank. The international driving licence was kept safely in our hotel's safe back in Agonda. Oops! Of all the things to forget on a scooter trip, that was the most important one. In India, foreigners are legally required to have an international driving permit to operate any vehicle.
We explained the situation honestly - we had the licence, it was just back at the hotel for safekeeping. We weren't trying to ride illegally. The officers looked at each other, then at us, then back at each other. This could go one of two ways: a legitimate fine or a request for a "on-the-spot settlement" (i.e., a bribe).
Fortunately, the officials believed us. Perhaps our genuine embarrassment was convincing, or maybe they were in a generous mood. They gave us a warning and let us through without a fine or a bribe. "Next time, carry it with you," they advised sternly but not unkindly.
Lesson learned! We carried on toward Palolem Beach, this time a bit more carefully observing all traffic rules.
## Palolem Beach: The Famous One
The ride from Agonda to Palolem took about 15 minutes along winding coastal roads. The landscape alternated between thick palm groves, small villages, and occasional glimpses of the turquoise sea.
Palolem Beach revealed itself gradually as we descended the hill into the village. The 1.5-kilometer stretch of white sand curves in a perfect crescent, bordered by coconut palms and colorful beach huts. This is Goa's most famous beach, known for its calm waters and for its chilled-out nightlife, including "silent discos" where partygoers wear headphones (to comply with noise restrictions while still partying after 10pm).
The beach gained international recognition when it was featured in the 2004 movie "The Bourne Supremacy." You know? (Spoiler alert) The one where Jason Bourne's girlfriend dies in the opening scenes. Watch the first 5 minutes of the movie again if you don't remember - that's Palolem Beach in all its beauty.
## Comparing the Two Beaches
The streets of Palolem were noticeably busier than Agonda. More restaurants, more shops, more tourists, more activity. On the waterfront, cows roamed around where the grass meets the white powdery sand - a uniquely Indian beach scene. Plenty of stray dogs ran among them, some playing in the shallow water.
We walked the length of the beach, taking in the scene. There were more beach shacks here, more vendors selling sarongs and jewelry, more kayak rentals and dolphin-watching boat tours. The water was indeed calmer than Agonda - the bay's protected crescent shape shelters it from the Arabian Sea's powerful waves.
The ambience was definitely different from Agonda. Where Agonda was the cleanest and most deserted shore we'd visited in South Goa, Palolem was livelier, more developed, more international. Both beautiful, but serving different needs.
## Choosing Our Paradise
To be completely honest, we preferred Agonda. Palolem was lovely, but we weren't looking for the backpacker scene or silent discos. We wanted peace, empty beaches, and the sound of waves rather than headphones. After exploring Palolem for a couple of hours, we headed back to our beach hut made of bamboo and banana leaves in Agonda.
The ride back was glorious - the afternoon sun warming our shoulders, the sea breeze keeping us cool, and now with our international driving licence knowledge firmly in mind for tomorrow's adventures.
We freshened up with an outdoor shower and prepared for another evening by the beach, feasting once again at JoJo Lapa's restaurant. As the sun set over the Arabian Sea, we realized we'd found our Goa rhythm: explore in the morning, beach in the afternoon, feast in the evening, sleep to the sound of waves.
Scooter Rental: ₹300-500/day depending on season and bike. Gearless scooters easier for beginners. Check brakes, lights, horn before leaving. Fill petrol (₹90-100/liter). Return with same fuel level."
},
{
icon: "Passport",
text: "CRITICAL - Driving License: International Driving Permit (IDP) REQUIRED by law! Police checkpoints common. Fine up to ₹5000 or bike confiscated. Get IDP in home country before traveling. Carry it ALWAYS when riding!"
},
{
icon: "Shield",
text: "Safety Tips: Wear helmet (legally required, ₹1000 fine). Drive left side of road. Roads can be narrow/potholed. Cows/dogs cross randomly. Go slow. Indian traffic chaotic but manageable if careful."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Palolem Beach: 1.5km crescent bay, South Goa's most famous beach. Calm waters great for swimming. Featured in Bourne Supremacy (2004). More developed than Agonda - shops, restaurants, nightlife."
},
{
icon: "Moon",
text: "Silent Disco: Unique Palolem experience - headphone parties after 10pm (to comply with noise laws). Several beach shacks host them (Neptune Point, Leopard Valley). ₹500-1000 entry. Wed/Sat usually."
},
{
icon: "Kayak",
text: "Activities: Palolem offers kayaking (₹300/hour), stand-up paddleboarding (₹500/hour), dolphin tours (₹600-1000), boat to Butterfly Beach (₹300 return). More active than quiet Agonda."
},
{
icon: "Route",
text: "Agonda to Palolem: 7km, 15min scooter ride. Scenic coastal road. Can also take auto-rickshaw (₹200-300) or taxi (₹400-500). Walking possible but hot (2 hours)."
},
{
icon: "Users",
text: "Crowd Factor: Palolem busier than Agonda. Nov-Feb packed with backpackers/tourists. Oct/March quieter. Agonda more peaceful/couples. Palolem more social/party. Choose based on preference!"
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Dining: Palolem has 30+ beach shacks and restaurants. Magic Italy (wood-fired pizza), Ourem 88 (Goan seafood), Dropadi (Indian). Prices similar to Agonda. More variety, bigger crowds."
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Swimming: Palolem's crescent bay = calmer water than Agonda. Better for nervous swimmers. Still lifeguards on duty. Watch for boats/kayaks. North end usually calmest."
},
{
icon: "Home",
text: "Accommodation: Palolem has hundreds of beach huts/guesthouses. ₹1500-5000/night depending on location/season. Beachfront pricier. Book ahead Nov-Feb. More party noise than Agonda."
},
{
icon: "AlertTriangle",
text: "Police Checkpoints: Common on Goa roads, especially tourist areas. Always carry: IDP, passport copy, rental agreement, helmet. Be polite. Genuine cops show ID. Bribes illegal - you can refuse."
}
]}
/>
*Have you visited Palolem Beach? Did you try the silent disco? Have you been stopped at a Goa police checkpoint? Which do you prefer - quiet Agonda or lively Palolem?*
### Agonda Beach
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/agonda-beach
Location: Agonda, India
Date: 2017-10-03
We slept well in our first cozy beach hut made of bamboo and large banana leaves at Agonda Beach in Goa. The undiscovered paradise is not a wild party place but a quiet sanctuary. Loud parties are forbidden here - it's more a yoga haven. These are the reasons this place is known as the "silent beach" of Goa.
The isolation and serenity were exactly what we needed after our restless and crowded trip through Varanasi and Delhi. No honking horns, no persistent touts, no crowds jostling for space. Just the sound of waves, rustling palm trees, and the occasional passing motorcycle.
## Morning Exploration
After a Western breakfast of wheat pancakes, eggs, and fresh fruit at the resort, we went for a walk along the main street which runs parallel to the beach. The village of Agonda is small - essentially one main road with beach shacks, guesthouses, a few shops, and restaurants scattered along it.
We found nice shops selling handmade jewelry, colorful sarongs, and Goan handicrafts. We were pleasantly surprised that vendors weren't as pushy as in North India. A simple "just looking" was met with a smile and "no problem, take your time" rather than aggressive sales pitches. We bought a few gifts and personal care products we'd been running low on, then headed back to the resort.
The temperature was rising, and the beach was calling.
## Swimming in the Arabian Sea
Of course, we had to go swimming in the Arabian Sea. This was what we'd been dreaming about during those sweaty days in Delhi. We walked across the hot sand and waded into the water.
The waves were powerful - much stronger than we'd expected. The Arabian Sea doesn't mess around. Swells would build up far offshore, then come rolling in with considerable force. It was exhilarating but also a bit intimidating. Fortunately, lifeguards were patrolling the beach even though the red flag was up, indicating rough conditions. They kept a watchful eye on swimmers and occasionally blew their whistles to warn people who ventured too far out.
We noticed something amusing - many Indian families were bathing fully clothed. Men in shorts and t-shirts, women in salwar kameez or even saris. This is common throughout India, where modesty standards are quite different from Western beach culture. Meanwhile, Western tourists lounged in bikinis and swim trunks. Goa is one of the few places in India where both cultures coexist peacefully.
The water was warm, salty, and incredibly refreshing. We spent over an hour playing in the waves, floating on our backs, and washing away weeks of accumulated dust and stress from our North India adventures.
## Evening at the Resort
After our swim, we rinsed off under the outdoor shower and collapsed onto beach chairs under a coconut palm. Time moved slowly here. We read books, dozed in the shade, and occasionally wandered down for another dip in the sea.
As the sun began its descent toward the horizon, we showered properly and prepared for dinner. We finished the day with drinks and food at JoJo Lapa Agonda Resort's restaurant. The food was spot-on - fresh fish curry, garlic prawns, vegetable biryani, all perfectly spiced. The staff were polite and pleasant, genuinely friendly rather than obsequiously so.
What else can you ask for? A peaceful beach, delicious food, friendly people, and the freedom to do absolutely nothing if you choose. After the intensity of the past weeks, this felt like paradise.
As we fell asleep in our bamboo hut with the sound of waves in the background, we realized Goa was already working its magic on us.
Swimming Safety: Arabian Sea has powerful waves. Red flag means dangerous conditions - swim with caution. Lifeguards on duty Nov-Feb (10am-5pm). Strong undercurrent possible. Stay near shore."
},
{
icon: "Moon",
text: "Silent Beach Policy: Agonda has noise restrictions - no late-night parties or loud music. Quiet time after 10pm enforced. Perfect for relaxation/yoga crowd, not party scene. Go to North Goa for nightlife!"
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Beach Shacks: 10+ shacks serve food/drinks directly on sand. Fresh seafood (₹400-800), curries (₹200-400), beer (₹100-150). Most attached to guesthouses. Try H2O, Fatima's, Dunhill Beach Resort."
},
{
icon: "Bike",
text: "Getting Around: Main road parallels beach (1km walk end-to-end). Rent scooter from resort/shops (₹300-400/day). Explore nearby beaches: Palolem (7km south), Cabo de Rama Fort (15km), Butterfly Beach (2km north, boat access)."
},
{
icon: "ShoppingBag",
text: "Shopping: Small shops sell sarongs, jewelry, sunscreen, basics. Not pushy vendors like North India. Prices negotiable but fair. Wednesday market in Chaudi (8km) for local produce/goods."
},
{
icon: "Shirt",
text: "Beach Dress Code: Bikinis/swimsuits fine for Westerners. Indians usually swim clothed (modesty). Topless bathing not allowed. Cover up when leaving beach - respect local culture."
},
{
icon: "Sun",
text: "Best Time to Visit: Nov-Feb perfect (warm, dry, lifeguards present). Oct/March shoulder season (fewer crowds, cheaper). April-May too hot. June-Sept monsoon - most places closed."
},
{
icon: "Yoga",
text: "Yoga & Wellness: Agonda attracts yoga crowd. Several studios offer classes (₹500-800/session). Morning beach yoga, sunset meditation. More spiritual vibe than party beaches."
},
{
icon: "Turtle",
text: "Turtle Nesting: Olive Ridley turtles nest Oct-March. Protected beach sections roped off. Don't disturb nests! Night beach walks discouraged during nesting season to protect hatchlings."
},
{
icon: "Sunrise",
text: "Daily Rhythm: Wake for sunrise (6:30am), morning swim, breakfast, beach lounging, afternoon siesta, sunset watching (6pm), dinner at shack, early sleep. Embrace slow pace - that's the point!"
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Daily Budget: Beach hut ₹1500-4000, meals ₹600-1200 (3 meals + drinks), scooter ₹300, snacks/sundries ₹300. Total ₹2700-6000/day ($35-80). Beachfront costs more but worth it."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Nearby Attractions: Cabo de Rama Fort (sunset views), Cola Beach (freshwater lagoon meets sea), Butterfly Beach (pristine, boat access), Palolem (livelier), Galgibaga (turtle beach). All within 30min scooter ride."
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you visited Agonda Beach? Did you brave the Arabian Sea waves? Which is your favorite quiet beach in Goa?*
### Leaving Varanesi
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/leaving-varanesi
Location: Agonda, India
Date: 2017-10-02
We are going to GOA! After weeks navigating the intensity, chaos, and occasional frustrations of North India, we were finally heading south to India's beach paradise. Goa promised palm trees, Arabian Sea beaches, fresh seafood, and a much-needed dose of relaxation.
But first, we had one more Indian travel challenge to overcome.
## Departure Dramas
We started the day with a shady driver trying to get extra money for the prepaid car we had booked through the hotel. This was supposedly a "fixed price" transfer to the airport, but suddenly he was demanding additional fees for "luggage" and "airport entry." We refused, smiled politely, and entered the airport without tipping the dishonest employee. You learn quickly in India to stand your ground.
Travel scams in India happen everywhere and all the time. Most of the time, it's just overcharging for the services provided, but it sometimes gets worse. We had been sold tap water in sealed bottles (the seal had been carefully broken and reglued). A tour guide brought us to a high-pressure sales pitch for overpriced carpets. Countless street beggars including young children followed us for money - some have been following us for over 10 minutes before giving up. It's hard not to give them cash, but experienced travelers and locals alike warn that it can make things worse.
The flight from Varanasi to Goa was smooth and mercifully uneventful. As we descended, we could see the coastline stretching below - golden beaches, swaying palm trees, and the turquoise Arabian Sea. This was a completely different India.
## Welcome to Goa
As we arrived at Goa's Dabolim Airport, we were pleasantly surprised. Unlike the aggressive touts in Delhi and Varanasi, here there was an organized prepaid taxi system. The prices were clearly displayed for each beach, and even if they were more expensive than local rates, they were official and approved by the government. ₹2000 INR for 77 km to Agonda Beach was still a reasonable fare. More importantly, it was transparent and hassle-free.
The drive south along the coast was beautiful. We passed through towns with Portuguese colonial architecture, churches alongside temples, rice paddies giving way to coconut groves. Goa felt different - more laid-back, more international, less chaotic. This was partly because Goa was a Portuguese colony for 450 years (until 1961), giving it a unique cultural blend quite different from the rest of India.
## Agonda Beach Paradise
We checked in at JoJo Lapa Agonda Resort, set amidst beautiful coconut palms just steps from Agonda Beach. After cramped hotel rooms in Delhi and basic guesthouses in Varanasi, this felt like absolute luxury - even though it was just a simple beach hut.
The Agonda beach's gentle curvature offered a splendid view of the entire picture-perfect environment from both ends. Unlike the crowded beaches of North Goa, Agonda was peaceful and undeveloped. A few beach shacks, some fishing boats, and miles of clean sand. This was what we'd been dreaming about.
## Gandhi Jayanti Celebrations
We had arrived on Gandhi Jayanti - a national festival marking the birthday of Mahatma Gandhi, the Father of the Nation. Goa is one of the rare Indian states where it's legal to consume alcohol, but not on this dry day when the entire country honors Gandhi's principles.
So we settled for delicious mocktails at the beach bar and feasted on curries and fresh seafood at a restaurant right on the seafront of the Arabian Sea. The food was incredible - fish curry, prawn masala, butter garlic crab, all spiced to perfection. With our bellies full and the sound of waves in the background, we retired to our beach hut for the best sleep we'd had since leaving Hong Kong.
After the sensory assault of North India, Goa felt like a healing balm. We could finally breathe.
Flights: Varanasi to Goa (Dabolim) via Delhi/Mumbai. Direct flights rare. 3-5 hours with layover. Book IndiGo, SpiceJet, Air India. ₹3000-8000 depending on season."
},
{
icon: "AlertTriangle",
text: "Travel Scams: Common in North India: fake water bottles, overcharging, pressure sales, persistent beggars. Stay firm but polite. Use prepaid services. Don't give to child beggars (encourages exploitation)."
},
{
icon: "Car",
text: "Airport Transport: Goa Airport has official prepaid taxi counter. Fixed rates to beaches: Agonda ₹2000-2500 (77km, 2 hours). Calangute ₹600-800 (30km). No haggling needed!"
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Agonda Beach: South Goa's hidden gem. Peaceful, clean, undeveloped. 3km of golden sand. Less crowded than North Goa beaches (Calangute, Baga). Perfect for relaxation, not party scene."
},
{
icon: "Beer",
text: "Alcohol Laws: Goa is one of few Indian states where alcohol is legal and cheap. BUT dry days on national holidays (Gandhi Jayanti Oct 2, Independence Day Aug 15, Republic Day Jan 26)."
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Food Scene: Goa offers incredible seafood - fish curry, prawn masala, crab, lobster. Eat at beach shacks for best value (₹300-600/meal). Fresh catch daily. Also Portuguese dishes (vindaloo, sorpotel)."
},
{
icon: "Sun",
text: "Best Time: Nov-Feb perfect weather (25-30°C, dry). March-May hot (35°C+). June-Sept monsoon season (many places close). Oct shoulder season - good deals, occasional rain."
},
{
icon: "Home",
text: "Accommodation: Agonda has beach huts (₹1500-4000), guesthouses (₹800-2000), resorts (₹3000-10000+). Book ahead Nov-Feb. Beachfront worth extra cost. Many close May-September."
},
{
icon: "Bike",
text: "Transport in Goa: Rent scooter/motorcycle (₹300-500/day) for freedom to explore. Bring international license. Or hire taxi for day trips (₹2000-3000). Local buses cheap but slow."
},
{
icon: "Heart",
text: "Cultural Shift: Goa is VERY different from North India. More relaxed, international, beach culture. Bikinis OK (not in rest of India). English widely spoken. It's a breather after intense North India!"
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Budget: Goa more expensive than North India but still cheap by Western standards. Budget ₹2000-3500/day (accommodation, food, transport). Mid-range ₹4000-8000/day. Luxury ₹10000+/day."
},
{
icon: "Landmark",
text: "South vs North Goa: South (Agonda, Palolem, Patnem) is peaceful, less developed. North (Calangute, Baga, Anjuna) has nightlife, water sports, crowds. Choose based on what you want!"
}
]}
/>
*Have you experienced the culture shock of going from North India to Goa? What Indian travel scams have you encountered? Which Goa beach is your favorite?*
### The Delhi Red Fort
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/delhi-red-fort
Location: Delhi, India
Date: 2017-09-26
We woke up in Delhi with mixed feelings about the capital. The metropolis was dirty, smelly, messy and crowded - but we knew the city was full of hidden charms and had so much more to offer. We just needed some time to adjust. Today, we'd tackle one of Delhi's most iconic landmarks: the Red Fort.
The Red Fort is one of Delhi's top tourist sights and a UNESCO World Heritage Site for good reason. Built in 1648 by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan (the same ruler who commissioned the Taj Mahal), this massive fortress served as the main residence of Mughal emperors for nearly 200 years. The name comes from the enormous red sandstone walls that surround the complex.
## Getting There
To avoid the chaotic traffic we'd experienced yesterday at the airport, we boarded the spanking-new Delhi Metro. The contrast with surface-level Delhi couldn't be more stark - clean, air-conditioned, organized, with clear signage in both Hindi and English. Don't believe there are no traffic regulations in Delhi. There is just no one to enforce the rules, so nobody cares about them. The metro was our escape from that chaos.
We got off at Chandni Chowk station and emerged into Old Delhi. The streets were already bustling at 9am - rickshaws weaving through crowds, vendors setting up their stalls, the smell of street food mixing with incense from nearby temples. The Red Fort loomed ahead, its massive walls rising 18 meters high and stretching for over 2 kilometers.
## Inside the Fort
We bought our tickets (foreigners pay significantly more than Indians - a common practice at historical sites throughout India) and entered through the Lahore Gate. The ticket booth warned us about unauthorized guides who would claim to be "official" - we politely declined several persistent offers.
Inside, the fort is enormous. The complex covers 254 acres and contains palaces, gardens, halls of public and private audience, and even a mosque. Many of the buildings were damaged or destroyed over the centuries - first during the 1857 rebellion when the British brutally suppressed Indian forces, and later during British colonial rule when the fort was used as a military barracks.
The Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience) was our first stop - a massive open pavilion where the emperor would hear petitions from common citizens. Red sandstone columns support intricate arches, and you can still see remnants of the original decorative panels inlaid with precious stones.
The Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience) was even more impressive. This is where the famous Peacock Throne once sat - an impossibly ornate seat made of solid gold and encrusted with diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and pearls. It was looted by Persian invaders in 1739, but the hall itself remains beautiful with delicate marble work and Persian inscriptions.
## Mughal Gardens and Museums
We wandered through what remains of the Mughal gardens - once elaborate water gardens with fountains and flowerbeds, now mostly dry and empty but still giving a sense of the grandeur that once existed here. It was easy to imagine how magnificent this place must have been in its heyday, with the emperor holding court while water flowed through the channels and birds sang in the gardens.
Several museums within the fort complex detail the history of the Mughal empire and display artifacts from the period. The Archaeological Museum was particularly interesting, with weapons, paintings, manuscripts, and even some of the original decorative elements salvaged from damaged buildings.
By noon, the heat was becoming intense. The sun beat down on the red sandstone, radiating heat back up. We'd brought water bottles but were draining them quickly. Most of the fort has little shade, so timing your visit for earlier or later in the day makes sense.
## Reflections
As we left through the Lahore Gate, we reflected on the layers of history contained within these walls. This was where Mughal emperors ruled one of the world's richest empires. This was where the last Mughal emperor was tried and exiled after the 1857 rebellion. This was where India's first Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, raised the Indian flag on August 15, 1947, marking independence from British rule. Even today, every Independence Day, the Prime Minister addresses the nation from the ramparts of the Red Fort.
Delhi was beginning to reveal its charms - layers upon layers of history, from Mughal splendor to colonial oppression to modern independence. We still found the city overwhelming, but understanding its past helped us appreciate its chaotic present.
Opening Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 9:30am-4:30pm. Closed Mondays. Sound & Light show at 7pm Nov-Jan, 7:30pm Feb-April, 8:30pm May-Aug, 7:30pm Sept-Oct. Arrive early to beat crowds!"
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Entry Fee: Indians ₹35, Foreigners ₹500 (₹550 with museum). Still photos free, video camera ₹25. Keep ticket for museum entry. Cash only at some counters."
},
{
icon: "Train",
text: "How to Get There: Metro to Chandni Chowk station (Yellow Line), 5-min walk. Or Lal Qila station (Violet Line), right at fort entrance. Avoid auto-rickshaws - they'll overcharge tourists!"
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Time Needed: 2-3 hours minimum. 4-5 hours to see everything including museums. Less crowded weekday mornings. Friday prayers at Moti Masjid may affect access."
},
{
icon: "Users",
text: "Avoid Touts: Many fake 'official guides' at entrance. Real guides wear Archaeological Survey badges. You don't need a guide - signage is good. Audio guides available for ₹100."
},
{
icon: "Sun",
text: "Beat the Heat: Visit early (9:30am opening) or late afternoon. Little shade inside. Bring hat, sunscreen, water. Summer (April-June) is brutal - 40°C+. Winter (Nov-Feb) is perfect."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Photography: Free for personal cameras. Diwan-i-Khas has best light mid-morning. Lahore Gate impressive from outside. Sunset from ramparts is spectacular (if open)."
},
{
icon: "AlertTriangle",
text: "Security: Bag checks at entrance. Large bags/backpacks not allowed. No food/drinks inside (finish water before entry). Security increased before Independence Day (Aug 15)."
},
{
icon: "Footprints",
text: "What to See: Don't miss Lahore Gate, Diwan-i-Am (Public Audience Hall), Diwan-i-Khas (Private Audience Hall), Rang Mahal (Palace of Colors), Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque), museums."
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Food Nearby: Chandni Chowk market has famous street food - paranthe wali gali, Karim's restaurant (Mughlai food since 1913). Eat after fort visit. Bring water - nothing sold inside fort."
},
{
icon: "Calendar",
text: "Sound & Light Show: Hindi version daily, English Tue/Thu/Sat (check current schedule). ₹60 Indians, ₹250 foreigners. Narrates Red Fort history. Worth it if you have time!"
},
{
icon: "Landmark",
text: "Combine With: Chandni Chowk market, Jama Masjid (15-min walk), Raj Ghat (Gandhi memorial, 2km). All accessible via metro. Full day itinerary for Old Delhi."
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you visited the Red Fort? What was your favorite part? How did you handle Delhi's chaos and heat during your visit?*
### Hong-Kong to Delhi
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/hong-kong-delhi
Location: Delhi, India
Date: 2017-09-25
Our Hong Kong adventure came to an end as we prepared for the next chapter of our journey - India. The 5-hour flight from Hong Kong to Delhi would take us from one of Asia's most orderly cities to one of its most chaotic. Little did we know just how dramatic that contrast would be.
The morning started with one last MTR ride to Hong Kong International Airport. We checked in our bags and said goodbye to the city that had welcomed us with crystal-clear cable cars, steep peaks, and giant golden Buddhas. The flight departed on time, and soon we were soaring over the South China Sea.
The hours passed in a blur of airplane meals, movies, and attempts at sleep. As we descended into Delhi, we could see the sprawling city through the haze - a vast metropolis that stretched endlessly in every direction.
## Arrival in Delhi
Stepping off the plane, the first thing that hit us was the heat. At 35°C with thick humidity, it felt like walking into a furnace after Hong Kong's air-conditioned efficiency. Immigration was relatively smooth with our tourist visas, and soon we were collecting our bags and heading for the exit.
And that's when the real India began.
As we exited the airport, there were touts in every nook and corner trying to drag us into their cabs. "Taxi! Taxi! Where you going? Best price!" The cacophony was overwhelming after the quiet orderliness of Hong Kong. We tried for an hour to book an Uber, but the traffic was so hectic we missed the first two taxis that arrived. The drivers would call, we'd go to the pickup point, but the chaos of Delhi airport arrivals meant we could never find them in time. Transportation was not going to be simple.
Eventually, we gave up on Uber and negotiated with a prepaid taxi booth. The ride into the city was an assault on the senses - honking horns, weaving motorcycles, cows wandering across highways, and driving that seemed to have no rules whatsoever. The contrast with Hong Kong's organized MTR system couldn't have been more stark.
## First Impressions
We checked into our hotel in central Delhi, grateful for a clean room and working air conditioning. After freshening up, we decided to venture out for a short walk around the neighborhood to get our bearings.
Poverty was everywhere, and maybe we were too tired to cope with it. Very young beggars made it all worse - children no more than 5 or 6 years old tugging at our clothes, asking for money or food. Street vendors lined every sidewalk. The noise never stopped - horns, music, vendors calling out, motorcycles roaring past. It was sensory overload after the comparatively quiet streets of Kowloon.
We rushed back to the hotel, feeling overwhelmed and guilty in equal measure. This was going to take some adjustment. The difference between Hong Kong's first-world infrastructure and Delhi's developing-world chaos was jarring. We knew India would be different, but experiencing it firsthand was another matter entirely.
Exhausted from the long day of travel and the initial culture shock, we drifted off to sleep, ready to tackle Delhi properly the next day with fresh eyes and more energy.
Flights: Hong Kong to Delhi takes 5-6 hours. Airlines include Cathay Pacific, Air India, IndiGo. Book in advance for $200-400. Direct flights best to avoid layovers."
},
{
icon: "Passport",
text: "India Visa: REQUIRED! Apply for e-Visa online 4+ weeks in advance ($25-80 depending on nationality). Must have 6 months passport validity and 2 blank pages. No visa on arrival!"
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Currency: Get Indian Rupees (INR) at Delhi airport ATMs for best rates. Airport exchange booths have poor rates. Credit cards widely accepted in hotels/restaurants but carry cash."
},
{
icon: "Car",
text: "Airport Transport: Delhi Airport to city center: Uber/Ola ₹400-600 (can be chaotic), prepaid taxi ₹500-700 (more reliable), Metro ₹60 (cheapest, runs 5am-11pm). Allow 45-90 min."
},
{
icon: "AlertTriangle",
text: "Culture Shock: Hong Kong to Delhi is DRAMATIC. Expect chaos, poverty, touts, traffic with no rules. Give yourself time to adjust. First day can be overwhelming - that's normal!"
},
{
icon: "Thermometer",
text: "Weather: Delhi is HOT! Sept-Oct: 30-35°C. Nov-Feb: 15-25°C (best time). March-May: 35-45°C (avoid!). June-Aug: monsoon season, humid. Pack accordingly."
},
{
icon: "Shield",
text: "Safety Tips: Ignore touts at airport. Use prepaid taxi/Uber. Keep valuables secure. Women should avoid walking alone after dark. Trust your instincts. Hotel staff are helpful resources."
},
{
icon: "Users",
text: "Beggars: Prepare emotionally for poverty, including child beggars. Giving money can attract more attention. Consider donating to reputable NGOs instead. It's heartbreaking but complex."
},
{
icon: "Hotel",
text: "First Night Hotel: Book centrally (Connaught Place, Paharganj, Karol Bagh). Budget ₹1000-2000/night. Confirm air conditioning works! Get SIM card at hotel if needed."
},
{
icon: "Smartphone",
text: "Connectivity: Buy India SIM at airport (Airtel, Vodafone, Jio). ₹200-500 for tourist plans. Need passport photocopy. Or get at hotel next day. WhatsApp works everywhere!"
}
]}
/>
*Have you experienced the Hong Kong to Delhi culture shock? How did you handle your first arrival in India? Any tips for making the transition smoother?*
### Tian Tan Big Buddha
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/tian-tan-big-buddha
Location: Hong Kong, Hong Kong SAR
Date: 2017-09-24
The Tian Tan Buddha, commonly known as the Big Buddha, is located on the largest outlying island of Hong Kong - the Lantau Island. The 34-metre bronze statue is the second-largest outdoor sitting Buddha in the world. The name, Tian Tan Buddha, comes from the base it sits on, which is a replica of Tian Tan, the Temple of Heaven in Beijing.
Being the main event of the island, we left early our 6 square metres flat hoping to beat the crowd. To reach the popular attraction, the faster (not cheapest) way from Hong Kong downtown was to catch a cable car from the Tung Chung MRT station - 11 stops away from the Jordan station where we had settled in. We could have reached the Giant Buddha by ferry or public bus but the gondola offers stunning panoramic views and some goosebumps (keep ready to know more).
Large groups of tourists usually queue up hours to buy the admission tickets and board the cable car. Today, very few people were in front of us and in less than 5 minutes we were sitting in the capsule ready to cross the bay up to the mountain village of Ngong Ping. That's how we like to start a day!
For 25 minutes we soared through the air with the steep hillside in front of us and the Hong Kong International Airport on our back. Underneath we could see hikers climbing up the 6 kilometres track to the village. Something we would have enjoyed trying with more time to spare. Maybe next time.
Suddenly, out of the mist, the statue of Buddha appeared, facing north to protect all people of China - Buddha statues generally face south. The figure increased in size as we were approaching the village. The sight was stunning!
As we alighted the capsule, we were greeted by the fabricated village of Ngong Ping. Too many shops and even more eateries made it fell like an amusement park with its 5d cinema, Starbucks outlet and Spa facilities. Fortunately, the staircase leading up to the Big Buddha was close by and that feeling faded away.
We ascended the 268 steps to the platform, one step at a time, with the Buddha watching down on us. At the top, we were rewarded a tranquil atmosphere paired with amazing views of the mountains and of the South China Sea beyond the Lantau Island.
The Po Ling Monastery, which coordinates the project from 1981 to 1989 when the last piece of the majestic statue was put in place, was clearly visible. It deserves a full visit on it own by the way and serves a full vegetarian lunch every day.
The weather was still cloudy and heavy wind made the visit tedious. We had to fight against the wind to circle the platform home of the 250 tons bronze Buddha. In no time, like by magic, the wind chased off the clouds and the warm sun showed up in the blue sky just above the figure sitting on its lotus throne - it was just magnificent.
After further exploration of the premise, we headed back for the final thrill of the day - a crystal cabin. A special capsule with a thick see-through glass floor. The experience was amazing. Even if you only do one way with that specifically equipped capsule, you have to try. We did it on our way down as it's often foggy in the morning and less impressive.
The sensation was incredible. Like a bird, we admired the beautiful 360 degrees scenery and the view beneath us, 100 meters above the ground. Those 25 minutes could have lasted hours.
We finished the day with a lot of (difficult) planning for our next trip to India, two large Tsingtao beers (well deserved) and an egg waffle from [Mammy Pancake](https://www.tripadvisor.in/Restaurant_Review-g294217-d8465679-Reviews-Mammy_Pancake-Hong_Kong.html) - a local celebrity shop when it comes to that dish. Their crispy waffle, still moist and soft fluffiness on the inside, was pretty Damn good!
Ngong Ping 360: Cable car HK$235 return (HK$185 one-way). Crystal cabin +HK$90. Book online for 10% discount. Runs 10am-6pm weekdays, 9am-6:30pm weekends. 25min ride."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Beat the Crowds: Arrive before 10am or after 3pm. Weekday mornings are quietest. Queues 1-2 hours on weekends/holidays. Early birds get clearer views!"
},
{
icon: "Bus",
text: "Budget Alternative: Bus #23 from Tung Chung (HK$19, 50min). Saves money but cable car views are spectacular. Hiking trail also available (6km, 2-3 hours)."
},
{
icon: "Stairs",
text: "268 Steps: Climbing stairs to Buddha platform is free. Each step represents a Buddhist teaching. Take your time. Elderly/disabled can get tram to top."
},
{
icon: "Temple",
text: "Po Lin Monastery: Free entry. Vegetarian lunch buffet HK$100 (11:30am-5pm). Worth trying authentic Buddhist cuisine. Monastery grounds peaceful and beautiful."
},
{
icon: "Eye",
text: "Crystal Cabin: Worth the extra HK$90! Glass floor offers thrilling aerial views. Less foggy afternoon/evening. Not for those afraid of heights! Book in advance."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Photography: Best light mid-afternoon when sun behind you. Buddha faces north (unusual). Clouds add drama. Platform offers 360° mountain/sea views."
},
{
icon: "ShoppingBag",
text: "Ngong Ping Village: Tourist trap but convenient. Overpriced food/souvenirs. Starbucks, Subway available. Better to eat at Po Lin Monastery buffet."
},
{
icon: "Sun",
text: "Weather: Can be 5-10°C cooler than Hong Kong. Bring light jacket. Morning fog common. Afternoon usually clearer. Check weather before going!"
},
{
icon: "Footprints",
text: "Hiking Option: Lantau Trail from Tung Chung (6km, moderate). Beautiful but challenging. Reward yourself with cable car ride down. Bring water and snacks!"
}
]}
/>
*Have you visited the Tian Tan Big Buddha? Did you brave the Crystal Cabin? What's your favorite cable car experience?*
### Hong Kong Victoria Peak
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/hong-kong-victoria-peak
Location: Hong Kong, Hong Kong SAR
Date: 2017-09-23
To start the day, we strolled through the Kowloon park to see the great flamingo we spotted the day before in the pond. We observed a number of birds living in the park including ducks, swans, parrots and tropical pigeons. The park houses an indoor and outdoor aquatic centre. Something we would try another day.
We kept walking south to the harbour and boarded the famous Star Ferry for only 3.1 HK$ to reach Central. Central, formerly called Victoria, is the commercial heart of the city crammed with skyscrapers and luxury malls.
As we were dying to try great dumplings, we lunched at the small but cosy Ding Dim 1968. The restaurant is well ranked for its dim sum and spring rolls. Cheap and made on demand, their food tasted marvellous.
## The Hike to Victoria Peak
With a full stomach, we passed by the Central-Mid-Levels escalator which is the longest outdoor covered escalator system in the world made with twenty escalators and three inclined moving sidewalks. We skip riding the escalators and continued wandering toward the entrance of The Peak Tram.
The Peak Tram, Hong Kong's first mechanised mode of transport, opened in 1888. The steep 1.7km track from Central up to Victoria Peak was worth trying at least once. Unfortunately, the queue was massive going around the corner. We elected to use our feet as we didn't want to wait under the scorching sun.
The most direct route was via the Old Peak Road. A strenuous 2.5-kilometre journey but with an elevation of 600 metres. The first half of the hike quickly became boring between high rises and heavy traffic. We wished we had waited for the tram. The next part was hard but worth exploring through a snaky trail among a park. As we climbed up, we could catch the Hong Kong landscape appearing through the trees.
Drained and dehydrated, we reached the top Victoria peak. Were rewarded with an incredible view of Hong Kong skyline. Sucking on a Coke, we soak in the beautiful vistas and fresh air. By chance, no one was queuing to ride down. Using our Octopus card, we boarded the tram for a short 5-minute ride.
For a late dinner and last drink(s) we went to Lan Kwai Fong in Hong Kong where people get drunk and silly. After shaking our bodies while listening some decent music, we rushed to catch the last tube heading toward our tiny flat. We did well deserve a good night sleep.
Star Ferry: Iconic HK$3.1 (upper deck) or HK$2.7 (lower deck) for 10-minute crossing. Kowloon to Central. Runs 6:30am-11:30pm. Use Octopus card. Best views from upper deck!"
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Ding Dim 1968: Excellent dim sum near Central. HK$30-50 per person. Try har gow (shrimp dumplings), siu mai, spring rolls. Made fresh to order. Small space, may wait for table."
},
{
icon: "TramFront",
text: "Peak Tram: HK$88 return (HK$62 one-way). Queues 1-3 hours during peak times (11am-5pm, weekends). Buy tickets online to skip queue or arrive before 9am/after 7pm."
},
{
icon: "Footprints",
text: "Hiking Alternative: Old Peak Road - 2.5km, 600m elevation gain, 45-60min. FREE! Start near Hong Kong Zoological Gardens. Challenging but rewarding. Bring water!"
},
{
icon: "Mountain",
text: "Peak Experience: 552m summit offers 360° views of Hong Kong, Kowloon, Victoria Harbour. Best at sunset (6-7pm) or night for city lights. Can get foggy in mornings."
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Photo Spots: Sky Terrace 428 (HK$50), Lion's Pavilion (free), Peak Circle Walk (free 30min trail). Sunset golden hour (5:30-6:30pm) offers best light."
},
{
icon: "ArrowDown",
text: "Coming Down: Peak Tram down is quick (5min). Evening queues shorter. Or walk down via Pok Fu Lam Reservoir Road (easier, 40min). Buses #15 also available (HK$9.8)."
},
{
icon: "Beer",
text: "Lan Kwai Fong: Hong Kong's party district. 90+ bars/clubs. Happy hours 5-9pm. Drinks HK$60-120. Gets packed 10pm-3am Thurs-Sat. Dress code for clubs (no flip-flops/shorts)."
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Timing Tips: Start early (8am) to beat Peak crowds. Star Ferry in morning light. Dim sum lunch. Hike midday (quieter). Peak at sunset. Lan Kwai Fong at night. Last MTR 12:30am."
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Hiking Prep: Bring 1L water, sunscreen, hat. First half is exposed to sun/traffic. Steep stairs throughout. Not for those with knee issues. Wear proper shoes!"
}
]}
/>
*Have you hiked to Victoria Peak or taken the tram? What's your favorite viewpoint in Hong Kong? Any Lan Kwai Fong nightlife stories?*
### We set out to Hong Kong
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/we-set-out-hong-kong
Location: Hong Kong, Hong Kong SAR
Date: 2017-09-22
After a filling breakfast, we were ready for a 6-hours journey to Hong Kong. Although Hong Kong is part of China, the former British colony operates like an "independent" country with its own currency, laws, international dialling code and border controls.
We took the first tube called MRT to the Futian border control to reach Hong Kong. Passing the border was dead easy with our European passport.
We bought an `octopus card`. The reusable contactless card is a super-powered `oyster car` for those who have been to London. You top up the card and use it for public transport, paying for grocery or taming your fast food craving. We took the tube ride, and we were in Hongkong downtown.
The environment was so different and we spotted three major differences with China. We were not the only westerners. Kro would not be a star anymore. Most products we knew were available at London price.
We found our hotel, steps away from MTR Jordan Station. Clean and with a great location, the accommodation offered the smallest room ever - 6 square metre including the bathroom. Hong Kong is one of the most expensive cities in the world and we were paying a reasonable amount for a private bathroom.
## Temple Street Night Market
As we couldn't stand to be in such confined space, we explored the area including the Kowloon Park and the Temple Street Night Market.
The busy night market was four full blocks of street stalls selling everything from souvenirs to electric gadgets. For foods, restaurants were serving fresh fish, spicy crab and clay pot chicken rice. For entertaining, we could have enjoyed the future tellers or the karaoke sops but we elected our bed after an exhausting day from Guilin.
Border Crossing: Futian/Lo Wu borders from Shenzhen to Hong Kong are efficient. European/US passports get easy entry. Expect immigration queues during peak hours (8-10am, 5-7pm)."
},
{
icon: "CreditCard",
text: "Octopus Card: Essential! HK$150 deposit + top-up. Use for MTR, buses, ferries, 7-Eleven, supermarkets, restaurants. Refundable when leaving. Buy at any MTR station."
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Cost Shock: Hong Kong prices match London/NYC. Budget HK$80-120/night hostel, HK$400-800 budget hotel. Meals HK$50-150. It's expensive but worth it!"
},
{
icon: "Hotel",
text: "Tiny Rooms: 6-10 sqm rooms are normal in budget hotels! Near Jordan/Tsim Sha Tsui offers good value (HK$400-600/night). Location matters more than space - you won't be in the room much."
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Kowloon Base: Jordan/Tsim Sha Tsui area is perfect base. Close to Temple Street Market, Star Ferry, shops. MTR connections excellent. More affordable than Hong Kong Island."
},
{
icon: "Moon",
text: "Temple Street Market: Open 4pm-midnight. Peak 7-10pm. Four blocks of stalls selling souvenirs, electronics, clothes. Fortune tellers, karaoke, street food. Bargain hard (start 50% of asking price)."
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Night Market Food: Try clay pot rice (HK$40-60), fresh seafood (HK$80-150), spicy crab. Dai pai dong (open-air food stalls) offer authentic local experience."
},
{
icon: "Users",
text: "Cultural Shift: After mainland China, Hong Kong feels Western. English widely spoken. International brands everywhere. More tourists. Prices much higher. It's like entering a different country!"
},
{
icon: "Smartphone",
text: "Connectivity: Free WiFi in MTR stations, malls, Starbucks. Buy SIM card at 7-Eleven (HK$88 for 8-day tourist plan). Google, Facebook work (unlike mainland China)!"
},
{
icon: "Train",
text: "MTR System: World-class metro. Clean, fast, efficient. Runs 6am-1am. Download MTR app for routes. Octopus card works on all lines. Peak hours are packed!"
}
]}
/>
*What was your first impression arriving in Hong Kong? Have you experienced the tiny hotel rooms? What's your favorite night market?*
### Back to Guilin
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/back-guilin
Location: Guilin, China
Date: 2017-09-21
We shared a private car with a lovely German couple. Alexandra and Gregor were finishing their first trip to China. The driver who appends to be the hotel owner where we spend the night drove us smoothly to the Guilin North Station. We picked up our tickets for our last city in China - Hong Kong.
## Guilin Zizhou Panorama Resort
We spent the rest of the day in a five-star hotel, the Guilin Zizhou Panorama Resort. The hotel was in the scenic and tranquil Zizhou Park. As guests, we could enjoy the park for free. So we did. We also abused the warm tub!
After our challenging trek through the Longji Rice Terraces, this was the perfect way to rest and recover. The resort's location within the park provided a peaceful escape from the city's bustle, with beautiful walking paths and serene lake views.
## Evening Stroll
After dinner, we went strolling again near the lakes and rivers and enjoyed the overrated Lijiang Waterfall Hotel Guilin and its world-record waterfall tumbling down over the building's north face.
While the waterfall hotel is certainly impressive at night, it felt more like a tourist spectacle than an authentic experience. Still, it was worth seeing once, and the evening walk along the illuminated riverfront was lovely.
Pin These Moments
*Have you visited Guilin? Where did you stay and what was your favorite way to relax after a long day of sightseeing? Share your Guilin experiences below!*
### Longji Rice Terraces
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/longji-rice-terraces
Location: Longsheng, China
Date: 2017-09-20
Guilin was just our entry point to explore the Longji Rice Terraces in the Longsheng County about 90 kilometres away. The private driver showed up as we were finishing our not-so-much English breakfast. The day before, we tried to organise the Longji Rice Terraces by public or private buses. Unfortunately, both options were impractical. So we spent 450 yuan for a very comfortable 3-hours drive to the Ping'An terrace fields - one of the most fantastic scenery in China or indeed the world?
We checked in at the `Baike Hotel` and quickly freshen up to start the 13 kilometres trek. The hike takes from 6 to 7 hours to complete.
## Nine Dragons and Five Tigers Viewpoint
We climbed up to the first viewpoint, 'Nine Dragons and Five Tigers'. The vantage point offered a breathtaking view of the endless rice terraces cascading down into the Ping'An valley. Most tourists will stop there and return the Ping'An. We didn't. We caught our breath, admired the spectacular panorama and kept on walking.
## Through the Terraces
We wandered on a natural stone path through the beautiful scenery for another 5 hours to reach the small village of Tiantou. We couldn't stop taking photos of the steep terraced hills. At every turn, the landscape was more mesmerising.
The trails were not well marked, but we relied on the map downloaded on Maps.me beforehand and on the locals which were always happy to show us the direction. We did a detour for one or two kilometres but tell no one. We are so bad with a map...
## Reaching Dazhai Village
The second section of the hike was shorter and in less than 2 hours we reached the more touristic Dazhai village. Hotels were growing like mushrooms to support the booming Chinese tourism in the minority village.
## The Bus Adventure
Shortly, we arrived at the end of the hike on a large car park. Most will drive up here and take a cable car to climb up the top of the rice terraces. We looked for a private car as transport was problematic. As we were asking around, the lady from the gondola ticket office pointed to a public bus.
As we tried to board the bus, we got mix feelings whether it was going to where we wanted. People on the bus sounded to disagree. The driver confirmed so we hopped for the best and boarded the bus. After half an hour's drive, we missed the exit for the Ping'An Village. We stayed put in the bus - slightly worried.
Suddenly, as we crossed with a bus going up the hill, we stopped. So did the other bus. A woman shouted this your bus for Ping'An. So we rushed out and hopped on the vehicle. What did just happen? Not sure. But it seemed our bus driver called the bus going to Ping'An to make sure he would stop to take us to our final destination.
Pin These Moments
*Have you hiked the Longji Rice Terraces? Which viewpoint was your favorite? Did you tackle the full trek or just visit Ping'An? Share your experiences below!*
### Kunming to Guilin
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/kunming-guilin
Location: Guilin, China
Date: 2017-09-19
5:00 AM - The alarm clock rang. We opened our heavy eyelids, showered and packed up our stuff one more time.
5:45 AM - The guy at the reception was sleeping on the couch by the front door. We made substantial noises to wake him up so we could complete our early checkout and get our deposit back.
## The Wrong Train Station
6:00 AM - We passed the security scan with no issue. The guards didn't spot our Swiss Army Knives. At the check-in counter, the employee spoke in Chinese as he controlled our train tickets. Soon we realised, we were not at the right train station. Our train at 8 in the morning was leaving from the Kunming South Train Station, not from the Main Station. Oops!
6:10 AM - With no time to waste we rushed out the station. After arguing with private drivers on the journey fare, we boarded an official taxi.
7:00 AM - We paid 78 yuan for the taxi and we were glad we made it on time.
7:05 AM - Damn it! The security scan has flagged up our utility knife. We argued with the guards to keep it. That didn't work out...
7:20 AM - We lost our second "fruit knife" as they called it. The first one was spotted and confiscated a few days ago in similar conditions in the same city.
8:00 AM - Frustrated, we boarded our first high-speed train for the day.
## Arriving in Guilin
14:00 - After 2 trains, a public bus and 2 cold beers, we started sightseeing Guilin which is remarkable for its dramatic karst topography. The town is built along the water. You didn't walk far before we reached the Two Rivers and Four Lakes spot. The scenery includes the Li River, Taohuajiang River, Mulong Lake, Guihu Lake, Ronghu Lake and Shanhu Lake.
## Elephant Trunk Hill
15:00 - We strolled up to the 3.5 million years old Elephant Trunk Hill (象鼻山). The popular scenic spot is the emblem of Guilin. The Elephant Trunk Hill sits at the confluence of the Li River and the Taohuajiang River. The height of this rock structure is 55 metres and has a curious form, like an elephant sucking water from the river, hence the name.
16:00 - As we were wandering along the canals, we met an English teacher. We learned about his family and his life in the nearby village of Yangshuo. The town is famous for its traditional dish - Beer Fish. Fresh carps from the Li River cooked in a unique way with beer. Unfortunately, we didn't manage to find a traditional restaurant in Guilin.
We also learned about the traditional Cormorant fishing method in which fishermen use trained cormorants to fish in rivers. Fishermen tie a cord around the bird's throat, loose enough for them to eat small fish, but tight enough so they can not swallow larger fish. The procedure seems a bit cruel and inhuman but has been practised for hundreds of years.
17:00 - The man tried to sell us a massage in a nearby parlour and tickets for a once a year acrobatic show (Dreamlike Li River Show) which happen to run every day. We kindly refused and kept on walking along the canals. We could see swimmers in the Li river. With the hot and humid weather, we could have plunged into the water to cool down.
## Cormorant Fishing at Sunset
20:00 - The sunset came fast and we got the rare opportunity to get a closer look at the Cormorant fishing. That was mindblowing but we still felt bad for the birds.
Important: Double-check which train station your train departs from - Kunming has multiple stations!"
},
{
icon: "Backpack",
text: "Swiss Army knives and utility knives are often confiscated at Chinese train station security"
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Elephant Trunk Hill is Guilin's most iconic landmark - worth visiting for photos"
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "The weather is hot and humid - stay hydrated and seek shade during midday"
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Cormorant fishing demonstrations typically happen at sunset - check with locals for exact times"
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "For authentic Beer Fish, head to Yangshuo village rather than Guilin city"
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you been to Guilin? Did you witness the cormorant fishing? What was your experience with China's high-speed rail system? Share your stories below!*
### Shopping
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/shopping
Location: Kunming, China
Date: 2017-09-18
Shopping and administrative work were on today's plan. We prepared our trip to Myanmar and finished the last details for India.
We did spend an hour in a massive Carrefour. It was funny to see locals catching their fish before the fishmonger killed them and cleaned them up.
## Preparing for the Journey Ahead
Today was all about logistics - finalizing our Myanmar itinerary, checking visa requirements for India, and stocking up on essentials for the upcoming adventures. Sometimes travel requires these slower, practical days to ensure everything runs smoothly ahead.
Pin These Moments
*Do you take dedicated planning days during your travels? How do you balance adventure with administrative tasks? Share your travel organization tips below!*
### Wagulu temple
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/wagulu-temple
Location: Lijiang, China
Date: 2017-09-17
After we slept late, we were back in the old town navigating through the canals, bridges and wooden shop-houses of Lijiang.
In the morning, we kicked back near the Wagulu temple which offers a stunning view of the whole city and it maze-like layout.
## Shuhe Old Town
We boarded a public bus to Shuhe as we like the village the day before. After browsing the shops selling the local specialities including copper-work, wood carving and leatherwork, we visited the tea trade road museum. Not the best but as it suddenly started to rain, it provided a nice shelter.
## Departing Lijiang
As the rain stopped, we returned to the Lijiang for an early dinner. Our last sleeper train in China was departing tonight. We splurged ourselves with a VIP cabin!
Pin These Moments
*Have you visited Lijiang or Shuhe Old Town? What was your favorite temple or viewpoint? Share your experiences in the comments below!*
### Lijiang Old Town
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/lijiang-old-town
Location: Lijiang, China
Date: 2017-09-16
After sharing our train cabin with another Chinese couple, we disembarked at Lijiang - a former capital of a small kingdom and today a major tourist (trap?) town. Lijiang is notorious for the Naxi people who used to be a matriarchal group meaning women were in charge.
As we knew taxis were reluctant to use their metre for short distance trip, we walked and caught the bus 26 to our hostel. It took 3 guys and 23 minutes to check us in and we still don't know why...
## Exploring the Old Town
After paying the 80 yuan "Old Town preservation" ticket as the ticket booth, we disappeared in the labyrinth of back alleys. Most people don't pay the fee but we did as we wanted to explore the Black Dragon Pool scenic spot later that day.
We spent the afternoon strolling the cobbled streets packed with food stalls, souvenirs, local handicrafts and fabrics shops. It was lunchtime when we entered Lijiang Old Town for the first time, so we're feeling hungry. Food stalls offered street-food like Lijiang baba (wheat-based flat bread filled with sweet ingredients), fried tofu, or walnut cakes. We bought some spicy dried yak meat we missed when we stayed in Songpan. Tasty but very spicy.
## Black Dragon Pool
After getting lost (on purpose) in the maze that is Lijiang we followed the streams north to the Black Dragon Pool passing by the waterwheels. The garden was beautifully backdropped by the massive mountain called the Jade Snow Mountain. The natural scenery was so gorgeous with traditional building scattered about. The pool was the home of thousands of goldfishes. We never saw so many fishes! We could even pay 10 yuan to release a lucky fish they caught earlier that day. A great way to make money!
## Shuhe Ancient Town
To escape the Chinese tourists, we onboard a bus to the Shuhe Ancient Town. The compact town is a well-preserved town along the ancient tea trade route. Less crowded and tacky than Lijiang, it's a great place to kick back.
## Lijiang Barbecue
For dinner, thanks to the 'Dianping app', we found the best place to eat in the Old City of Lijiang. The barbecue meat was so tasty! One thing left to do now: sleep!
Pin These Moments
*Have you visited Lijiang Old Town or Shuhe Ancient Town? Did you try the spicy yak meat or Lijiang baba? What was your impression of the Black Dragon Pool? Share your Lijiang experiences!*
### Golden Temple Park
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/golden-temple-park
Location: Kunming, China
Date: 2017-09-15
On the Mingfeng Mountain (鸣凤山), in the northern outskirts of Kunming, the Golden Temple Park or Jindian Park was the perfect spot to escape the busy city. We boarded the 1 yuan public bus. The traffic in Kunming is really (really) problematic. The 7 kilometres ride to the park entrance took about an hour.
After paying the 30 yuan admission, we walk up through a series of decorated Heavenly Gates which lead to the Kunming Golden Temple.
## The Bronze Golden Temple
Made of 250 tons of bronze, originally supposed to be used to mint coins, the supposedly largest architecture of its kind in China was standing within a fort-like building. The beam, windows, curtains, bucket arches and the Taoist statues within were all made of bronze. The original temple was painted with gold powder and therefore was named the golden temple. Over time, the old temple's colour changed to a darker russet-brown. It has its glitter, but the temple remains an elegant and remarkable monument and the most active Taoism shrine in the city.
## Bell Tower and City Views
On ahead, we explored the large Bell Tower which houses a giant copper bell. We climbed up to see back over the Kunming metropolis.
## Peaceful Gardens
We kept venturing into the paths around the temple and the various gardens of the Golden Temple park and enjoyed numerous interesting natural sights. A small water garden with plenty of koi fishes waited to be feed. So we stuffed them with biscuits!
The park was peaceful and appreciated by the elderly. We met locals playing cards or mahjong (a tile-based game) in the shade of the trees.
## Kunming Cuisine
Since last night, we were still looking for the Over the Bridge Rice Noodles. And still no luck. The famous Kunming dish was not easily available. We end up in a tiny restaurant and ordered some spicy beef and chicken noodles. It tasted delicious and only cost 27 Yuan (3 pounds). So far, our cheapest meal ever in China.
## Journey to Lijiang
With a full stomach, we prepared for another night in a sleeper train. This time to Lijiang. We filled up our backpacks. We stocked up on water, snacks, and our own toilet paper (difficult to imagine that the first official toilet paper was introduced in China in 1391). The eye mask and earplugs were easy to reach. We were ready!
As we passed the security check, the security scan flagged our Swiss Army Knife. With the terrorist attack which occurred at the Kunming Railway Station in 2014, the security guard the guard wouldn't let it through. He confiscated our utility knife and dropped it in a metal box. That's was not the best way to end up your day! Luckily, we still have 2 they haven't found so far...
Important: Traffic in Kunming is terrible - 7km bus ride can take 1 hour"
},
{
icon: "Backpack",
text: "Swiss Army knives are confiscated at train stations - pack them in checked luggage if traveling by air"
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Over the Bridge Rice Noodles (过桥米线) can be hard to find - ask locals for recommendations"
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you visited the Golden Temple in Kunming? What did you think of this magnificent bronze structure? Did you find the famous Over the Bridge Rice Noodles? Share your experiences!*
### Western Mountain Forest Reserve
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/western-mountain-forest-reserve
Location: Kunming, China
Date: 2017-09-14
We woke up and started our day with a filling French breakfast - French toast with maple syrup, a fresh-squeezed orange juice, a hot chocolate and a fruit salad. Not the typical Chinese breakfast but we needed to splurge on something familiar.
The 'Stone Forest' was 3 to 4 hours by bus from our hostel, so we skipped the UNESCO recognised area. Instead, we headed to the Western Mountain Forest Reserve on the outskirts of Kunming. A quick walk to the newly opened Kunming metro line 3 followed by a few stops to its terminal and we were at the ticket office of the Western Forest.
## Ascending the Western Hills
We paid 88 yuan each for the all-inclusive package including the round-trip shuttle bus, the electric car, the entry to the park, one-way cable-car ride and some good free hiking in the reserve. The first shuttle bus brought us to the main entrance stopping on its way to the different temples. Visitors could hop on and off as they wished. We stayed put in the bus as we wanted to spend more time exploring the mountain. Next was a quick ride by an electric car and we were ready to ascend the mountain.
## The Dragon Gate
We ventured into the mountains and explored the various grottos and tunnels carved out of the mountain face. Along the pathway, we passed temples and shrines dating back to the 11th century. In front of us, tourists were taking countless of selfies. We knew we reached the Dragon Gate - the main event of the Western Hills. We waited a few minutes in the hope to get the spot for ourselves. It almost worked out.
We climbed the seemingly never-ending stairs to reach the top, the Lingxu Pavillon which offers a sweeping view of the Kunming metropolis and the Dianchi Lake (the sixth largest lake in China). The panoramic view was impressive. Sooner or later, we had to return to the bustling and somehow chaotic Kunming city. The cable car brought us back to the main entrance as we appreciated, one last time, the charming scenery of Dian Lake.
## Kunming Flowers and Birds Market
Slightly templed-out, we hopped into the tube to the Kunming Flowers and Birds market (昆明花鸟市场). Central and close to The Monument to the People's Heroes, the market is today a tourist spot. The unconventional market will sell you cute little puppy dogs, various birds, creepy and crawly insects or jewellery but surprisingly very few flowers. Kro tried out some Chinese calligraphy.
All those weird snacks didn't spoil our appetite, and we elected to try the Kunming Steam-pot chicken. The cooking pot with a hollow tube in the centre brings together tender chicken, delicious soup, original flavours and rich nutrition. Not the best meal we had in China. Maybe we picked the wrong restaurant...
Pin These Moments
*Have you visited the Western Hills near Kunming? Did you make it to the Dragon Gate? What did you think of the Steam-pot chicken? Share your Kunming adventures below!*
### Yunnan Nationalities Village
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/yunnan-nationalities-village
Location: Kunming, China
Date: 2017-09-13
After an uneventful night, we arrived on time in Kunming. The capital of the Yunnan Province is nicknamed the "Spring City" because of its nice weather all year round. Today was no exception to the rule. We were welcomed by a sunny morning.
We boarded the public bus to our hostel [Kunming Upland International Youth Hostel](https://www.booking.com/hotel/cn/kunming-upland-international-youth.html?aid=1296479). The fare was only 1 yuan each - 0.15 pounds! Public transport in Chinese cities is affordable and somewhat easy with the `Baidu Map` app.
The hostel provided a nice garden and a lively bar. Our bedroom was tiny but quiet and clean. For once the shower in our private bathroom was not above the toilet. Yeah, so far we always had the shower so close to the toilet you could have used both at the same time.
## Yunnan Nationalities Village
After an hour to freshen up and to do our laundry (something we did every two or three days), we headed to the Yunnan Nationalities Village (*云南民族村*). The open-air museum is devoted to the different ethnic groups making (Dai, Shui, Buyi, Bulang, Miao, Dulong, Pumi and 20 others) the population of Yunnan. Putting aside the fake feeling left by the actors, we discovered the traditional housing, costumes, crafts and ways of life of years of ethnic diversity in China.
## Kunming Cuisine Quest
After that fascinating and educational stroll, we were craving for some food. There were two dishes we wanted to try - the Over-the-Bridge Rice Noodles and the Steam Pot Chicken. Unfortunately, the restaurant we picked, based on the Wikitravel recommendation, did not offer those two dishes. The place was popular among Chinese people though and the food was great. We have more days in Kunming to try out those specialities.
Pin These Moments
*Have you visited Kunming or the Yunnan Nationalities Village? Which ethnic minority culture fascinated you most? Did you try the famous Over-the-Bridge Rice Noodles? Share your experiences!*
### Mount Emei
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/mount-emei
Location: Emeishan, China
Date: 2017-09-12
We really wanted to hike the Mount Emei - one of the most important sacred mountains in China. Sadly, our time in Emeishan was coming to an end and our sleeper train would not wait for us.
So, we only caught a glimpse of the Mount Emei, starting from the Emeishan town. We knew we were missing out on something big but this is a reason to come back to China.
## Journey to Kunming
After a simple and light meal, we pack our backpacks and took the direction to the Emeishan train station for our second overnight train and a 17-hour ride to Kunming.
We were less excited (17h!) but eager to reach the next destination. We settled comfortably in our bunk beds. The last 2 beds in our cabin were booked by a family of four. A young mum, her cute daughter and what we assumed were her Chinese parents. Our cabin was going to be cosy!
## Food and Friendship
Our cabin buddies didn't speak English, but they communicated through their food. With plenty of Leshan specialities in their baggage, they made us try everything: duck wings, spicy rabbit stew, very tiny apples, walnuts, and sweet bread filled with fresh grapefruit. Our stomachs full, we were ready for a good night's sleep.
Pin These Moments
*Have you visited Mount Emei? Did you make it to the Golden Summit? Have you experienced the warmth of Chinese hospitality on sleeper trains? Share your stories below!*
### The Leshan Grand Buddha
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/leshan-grand-buddha
Location: Leshan, China
Date: 2017-09-11
After spending a good and resourceful night sleep at the 'quiet hotel' in Emeishan, we took a bus through the 'transfer centre for tourist' for a 45 min ride to Leshan. Half journey, the driver told us to board a public bus, so we complied without asking too many questions. Nobody actually speaks English anyway. Most people can only say 'Hello' and giggle when you reply.
## Journey to Leshan
Leshan is famous for its huge riverside cliff-carving of Buddha - The Leshan Grand Buddha (乐山大佛). A 71-metre high sculpture carved out of a large cliff and the largest and tallest Buddha statue in the world.
Before heading to the Grand Buddha, as we were waiting for our fellow tourists to leave, we explored the park: the various temples and shrines scattered about and the remarkable Haoshang bridge further down the old fishing village. Sadly, the village has become a tourist trap where you can eat (local products?) and buy souvenirs.
## The Grand Buddha
As we approached the Grand Buddha, most visitors were gone. We could, at our own pace, snake down the narrow stone steps leading to the base of the Leshan Grand Buddha. The view from below was breathtaking. We felt like ants walking next to gigantic toes.
## Lost on the Way Back
After spending the afternoon in the park and enjoying the view, we went back by public buses. It wasn't easy. We got help from locals and a gentleman even paid for our bus as we ran out of small money. Unfortunately, we got lost and ended back at the train station where we started two hours earlier. So, we gave up and took a train to Emeishan. From there, our bed was not too far...
Getting back: Public bus system can be confusing - ask locals for help or consider taking a taxi/train"
},
{
icon: "Wallet",
text: "Bring small change for public buses - friendly locals may help if you run out!"
},
{
icon: "Globe",
text: "English is rarely spoken - learn basic Chinese phrases or use translation apps"
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you visited the Leshan Grand Buddha? Did you walk down to the base or view it from above? How did you navigate the public transportation back? Share your Leshan experiences!*
### Songpan to Emeishan
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/songpan-emeishan
Location: Emeishan, China
Date: 2017-09-10
We were back in the bus from Songpan to Chengdu. It's funny to observe how even the long distance bus plays a role in the local community. The driver will wait for someone in the middle of nowhere or will pick a local and drop him off a few kilometres further.
## The Bus Journey
The trip was as comfortable as our way up to Songpan. People spitting and vomiting due to some severe motion sickness. A poor lady was nose bleeding. A baby was crying at the back wondering when the madness will end. And the driver was incessantly horn honking to avoid potential collisions. We put our ear plugs in and tried to get some sleep even though the scenery outside the bus was astonishing - a range of green mountains dropping steeply into the river.
## Rockfall Emergency
All of a sudden, we stopped. The road was blocked. After making hypotheses of what could have happened, and with nothing else to do, we walked up the road to see what was blocking the traffic.
A massive rock fall had buried the road during the night. Tons of rocks slid off the cliff and damaged the main roadway to Chengdu. Luckily, nobody was hurt but we would be stuck here for a while. Bye bye our connecting train at Chengdu and bye bye our hostel at Emeishan.
An hour later we heard a huge blast. The road engineers just used dynamite to blast away debris. Hopefully, we would not be sleeping in a bus tonight. Great news! As we were walking, the traffic was moving again. We were not close to our bus which probably was also moving - with all our gear and luggage. Damn it!
## Race Back to the Bus
We ran like crazy. Our bus was still waiting in the middle of the road being overtaken by everyone else. The driver was not so happy and yelled some Chinese. Whatever, we were back on the bus!
We took a long time to get back to Chengdu but we caught our train and could enjoy a good night sleep in our charming hotel in Emeishan. What a day!
Road conditions: Mountain roads are subject to rockfalls, especially after rain or seismic activity - delays are possible"
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Expected journey time: 8-10 hours by bus to Chengdu, plus 2-3 hours by train to Emeishan"
},
{
icon: "AlertCircle",
text: "Motion sickness is very common on this winding mountain route - bring medication and plastic bags"
},
{
icon: "Luggage",
text: "Keep your valuables with you - don't leave them in checked luggage on the bus"
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Local buses often make informal stops to pick up and drop off locals along the route"
},
{
icon: "Headphones",
text: "Bring ear plugs for the constant horn honking and to help you sleep through the chaos"
},
{
icon: "Mountain",
text: "Despite the challenging journey, the mountain scenery along the route is spectacular"
},
{
icon: "Train",
text: "Book connecting trains with a buffer - road conditions can cause significant delays"
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you experienced a rockfall or road closure on a mountain journey? How do you handle motion sickness on winding roads? Have you ever had to run to catch your bus? Share your adventure travel stories!*
### Huanglong National Park
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/huanglong-national-park
Location: Huanglong, China
Date: 2017-09-09
6:00 AM - we woke up to be the first one to enter the Huanglong national park as the reserve is always packed with tourists. That's what should have happened. The recent earthquake which has impacted the big neighbour park Jiuzhaigou scared most people to visit the area. Even if Huanglong didn't suffer the earthquake, the number of visitors have dramatically dropped from thousands per day to maybe 20! It's not a typo, you are reading twenty correctly.
## The Journey to Huanglong
So we started at 9:30 from Songpan. We shared a private car we booked the day before for 400 Yuan with a friendly French couple.
After cashing another 200 Yuan each at the ticket office, we checked in at the gate. Huanglong is often overshadowed by its big brother - the Jiuzhaigou park. But make no mistake, it's a diamond in the rough. The mountain displays hundreds of natural mineral pools with spectacular colours, waterfalls and wide swaths of limestone formations. As we said before, with the recent earthquake, the relaxing park was just for ourselves to admire.
## Climbing to the Colorful Pools
As we climbed up the 4 kilometres, the cascade of natural pools and the waterfalls, backdropped by magnificent green mountains, only got more spectacular.
After passing 2 Tibetan Buddhist temples, and walking up the final wooden stairs, we reached the top segment. The set was breathtaking. More turquoise and blue-tingled lakes than you could dream of. And still, we were alone to contemplate Huanglong's imaginable beauty.
We spent five hours in the park. We didn't use the cable car, and stopped to take hundreds of pictures and loads of video recordings.
## Back in Songpan
Back in Songpan, and exhausted by our long day, Caroline tasted the butter tea as a final treat. The result was not expected. In a bad way ;-) The huge butter spoon dropped in the tea didn't save the taste.
Entry fee: 200 Yuan per person. Private car from Songpan: 400 Yuan (can be shared)"
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Allow 5-6 hours to explore the park properly - the main trail is 4km uphill"
},
{
icon: "Cable",
text: "Cable car is available if you don't want to hike, but the walk is highly recommended for better views"
},
{
icon: "Mountain",
text: "The park features hundreds of colorful travertine pools, waterfalls, and limestone formations - often overshadowed by Jiuzhaigou but equally spectacular"
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Pass 2 Tibetan Buddhist temples on the way to the summit pools"
},
{
icon: "AlertTriangle",
text: "High altitude location - dress warmly and be prepared for thinner air"
},
{
icon: "Users",
text: "Visit early in the morning to avoid crowds - though visitor numbers may be low following the nearby Jiuzhaigou earthquake"
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "Bring lots of storage for photos - the colorful pools are incredibly photogenic!"
},
{
icon: "Coffee",
text: "Try Tibetan butter tea when you get back... or maybe not! It's an acquired taste"
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you visited Huanglong National Park? Did you hike or take the cable car? How did it compare to Jiuzhaigou? Have you tried Tibetan butter tea? Share your Huanglong experiences!*
### Chengdu to Songpan
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/chengdu-songpan
Location: Songpan, China
Date: 2017-09-08
Starting from the Chadianzi bus station, a long bus ride to Songpan was on the day's agenda. The remote village, 350 kilometres away, could only be reached by buses or private cars. We opted for the first and cheap option - 156 yuan each.
## The Journey to Songpan
The outdated bus was clean and on time. Buckets were laid down in the aisle for people to throw their rubbish. Let's come back on that later.
After leaving Chengdu downtown, we were facing a completely different decor. The mountain scenery was magnificent with small towns at short intervals along the way. The road, in the mountainous regions, averages out the snaky and unpredictable curves of the river. The stomach-lurching turns and a driver using the brakes sparingly make most people carsick. Do you remember those buckets in the aisle? They have a main purpose than collecting your rubbish. As people got sick, they started to use those bins. We won't explain much in detail but you got the picture.
On top of that, we only stop twice. One to allow us to use 1 yuan washroom and a second time for a quick lunch. So not the most pleasant journey.
Outside the scenery was still breathtaking and as we got closer to Songpan, Tibetan features became more and more prominent. Array of multi coloured flags were strung along mountain ridges and peaks. We pass by several yaks wandering peacefully on the road. We learned that the yak meat was the speciality of the region. Something to try on later.
## Arriving in Songpan
After the 8-hours ride and quickly checking in average Emma's guesthouse, we explored the town. The streets were deserted. Half of the shop was closed. The ones open barely making any sales. Not such a surprise after the recent and nearby Jiuzhaigou earthquake.
Nonetheless, the town was charming. Hidden within the well-preserved city walls, the main street was illuminated with colourful Chinese paper lanterns. Beautiful!
Distance: 350 kilometers from Chengdu to Songpan - remote village accessible only by bus or private car"
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Bus tickets cost 156 yuan per person from Chadianzi bus station"
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Journey takes approximately 8 hours with only 2 stops - one for restroom (1 yuan), one for lunch"
},
{
icon: "AlertTriangle",
text: "Motion sickness warning! Winding mountain roads with sharp curves can make passengers very sick - buckets are provided on the bus"
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "As you approach Songpan, Tibetan cultural features become prominent - prayer flags on mountain ridges and yaks on the road"
},
{
icon: "Home",
text: "Emma's Guesthouse offers budget accommodation in town"
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Try the local specialty: yak meat dishes"
},
{
icon: "AlertCircle",
text: "Town may be quieter than usual due to the recent Jiuzhaigou earthquake affecting tourism"
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you taken the bus journey from Chengdu to Songpan? How did you handle the winding mountain roads? Did you explore Songpan's ancient town walls? Share your Tibetan borderland experiences!*
### Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/chengdu-research-base-giant-panda-breeding
Location: Chengdu, China
Date: 2017-09-07
6:00 AM - The alarm rang with the most annoying sound ever - the wake-up signal. Why on earth would you start your day so early? The reason was simple, around 60 cute giant pandas. Who can resist the Chinese national treasure? So we got ourselves out of bed early to be amongst the first to enter the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding at 7:30 am.
The lovely animals are more active in the morning hence the feeding time is between 8 am to 10 am. After the breakfast, the pandas will take a 4 to 6 hours nap. You won't see much more activity in the park.
## Watching Pandas
We spent hours watching pandas crunching bamboo, playing, climbing trees or just lolling together. We didn't get to see the newborn pandas when there are still pink but we saw several babies and cuddly toddlers indulging in their favourite pastime: sleeping!
Even if the giant pandas are the main event, the facility also displays red pandas.
The Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding is inside a bamboos forest kept clean and sign-posted in English. We spent as much time wandering the park than we contemplated those adorable creatures laying in the weirdest position on their bamboo platforms.
## Jinli Ancient Street & Chengdu Hot Pot
As the crowd invaded the alleys, we left the park to collect our next train tickets and buy a bus ticket to Songpan, our next destination. The train tickets were easy to pick up. The bus tickets were another story. After spending hours commuting between line 2 and 3, we found a bus station with buses leaving for Songpan. To relax, we paced along the lively Jinli Ancient Street (锦里古街) in the old part of Chengdu. We pass by the Wuhouci Temple (武侯祠) and settled for a famous dinner: the Chengdu hot spot.
The dish was a mandatory part of our culinary tour of the Sichuan cuisine. We were just so scared to try it that we settled for the 'newcomer' version - a half spicy and a half clear broth. Dining moves fast in China and within minutes the huge pot arrived sizzling at our table. Next came the raw meats and vegetables that we boiled ourselves until ready to eat. The waiter taught us how to prepare the dipping sauce made of sesame oil of garlic, coriander and chive.
Plenty of Sichuan peppers, chillies and a lot of red chilli oil are the base ingredients of the hot and spicy soup. The sweet and sour gave our mouth a break. Cold beers also helped to calm the spiciness, so we drank a lot. It was one of the most exciting meals we have had so far in China.
Arrive early! Get there by 7:30 AM opening time - pandas are most active during morning feeding (8-10 AM)"
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "After breakfast, pandas nap for 4-6 hours - you won't see much activity in the afternoon"
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "The research base is in a bamboo forest with clean facilities and English signage"
},
{
icon: "Backpack",
text: "Plan to spend 3-4 hours exploring both giant pandas and red pandas"
},
{
icon: "Train",
text: "Buying bus tickets to destinations like Songpan can be complicated - allow extra time"
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Must-try: Chengdu hot pot at Jinli Ancient Street (锦里古街) - try the half-spicy version for beginners"
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Sichuan peppers and chili oil are intense - order cold beer to help with the spice!"
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you visited the Chengdu Panda Base? Did you see the baby pandas? Have you tried authentic Chengdu hot pot? How spicy did you dare to go? Share your experiences!*
### Arriving in Chengdu
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/highlighted-chengdu
Location: Chengdu, China
Date: 2017-09-06
After a 16-hour ride in our first sleeper train, we arrived at the East Chengdu railway station. The train sleeper was as comfortable as you would expect. Small bunk bed and constant noise only enabled us little sleep.
## Welcome to Chengdu
Outside the station, the sun was shining and boiling hot. We were lucky as Chengdu is the cloudiest city in China.
Chengdu, also called the "Land of Milk and Honey", would be our starting point for the exploration of the diverse Sichuan province with its scenic towns, the Leshan Giant Buddha and Huanglong Park. But first, we needed to freshen up at our hostel: the Lazybones Hostel.
## Meeting the Locals
As we were leisurely strolling around, we stopped to watch men playing Xiangqi - a Chinese version of chess. Within minutes an elderly local joined us to explain the rules of this most popular Chinese board game.
The local had spent all his lifetime in Chengdu and told us about the classics of the Sichuan cuisine. He was also keen to practice his English. Following his advice, we settled down for two essential eats.
## Authentic Sichuan Cuisine
The `Mapo Doufu` - made of soft tofu, ground beef, chilli bean paste and a lot (and even more) of red-hot chilli oil served in a screaming-hot bowl. We could only eat a few spoons before giving it up.
The `Gongbao Jiding` is the original version of the world famous diced chicken with peanuts and dried chillies. You would find that dish in any Western Chinese restaurants. In Chengdu, the meal just tastes better!
Sleeper train from Xi'an: 16-hour overnight journey - expect small bunk beds and constant noise"
},
{
icon: "Moon",
text: "Prepare for limited sleep on sleeper trains - bring earplugs and eye masks"
},
{
icon: "Sun",
text: "Chengdu is known as China's cloudiest city - sunny days are a lucky surprise!"
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Chengdu, the 'Land of Milk and Honey', is the perfect base for exploring Sichuan Province"
},
{
icon: "Home",
text: "Lazybones Hostel is a good budget option for freshening up after the long train ride"
},
{
icon: "Users",
text: "Watch locals playing Xiangqi (Chinese chess) - they're often happy to explain the rules and practice English"
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Mapo Doufu (麻婆豆腐) - iconic Sichuan dish with tofu, beef, and intense chili oil. Warning: VERY spicy!"
},
{
icon: "ChefHat",
text: "Gongbao Jiding (宫保鸡丁) - the authentic Kung Pao Chicken tastes much better in its home province"
},
{
icon: "Flame",
text: "Sichuan cuisine is intensely spicy - even experienced spicy food lovers may struggle with authentic preparations"
},
{
icon: "MessageCircle",
text: "Locals are friendly and eager to share food recommendations and practice English"
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you taken a Chinese sleeper train? How did you survive the journey? Have you tried authentic Mapo Doufu in Chengdu? Could you handle the spice? Share your Chengdu arrival stories!*
### Giant Wild Goose Pagoda
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/giant-wild-goose-pagoda
Location: Xi'an, China
Date: 2017-09-05
For our last day in Xi'an, we ticked off one of the main Xi'an attractions: Giant Wild Goose Pagoda. The ancient building is well-preserved and a holy place for Buddhists.
## Journey to the Pagoda
As it was raining, we took the metro to the historical site. By (a lucky) mistake, we got off too early and ended up in a massive shopping mall. It was evident we would be late to admire the pagoda. We are not shopping addicts, but we enjoy wandering in the food section and exploring all the products they are selling. We bought some essentials for the road but nothing too fancy.
## The Giant Wild Goose Pagoda
The Giant Wild Goose Pagoda was a delight for the eyes. The park and the fountains bordering the pagoda made it even more attractive.
## Farewell to Xi'an
Our time in Xi'an was coming to an end. We were tired but we couldn't leave Xi'an without a last stroll through the Muslim Quarter. After all, the Muslim Quarter is the only neighbourhood within the city wall that is still original. It might have been our last chance to see it like this before new developments take over.
## First Sleeper Train
After saying farewell to that unique market, we headed back to our hostel to get ready for our first sleeper train. With chaotic traffic around the train terminal, we collected - but not without some stress - our tickets and checked in through security. Finally, our train was ready to board and everyone moved toward the cars.
So did we sleep well? Wait until tomorrow to know more about our experience in the Chinese sleeper train.
Muslim Quarter: The only original neighbourhood within the city wall - visit before modern development changes it"
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Plan a final visit to the Muslim Quarter before leaving Xi'an - it's a unique cultural experience"
},
{
icon: "Train",
text: "Sleeper trains: Arrive early at the train terminal - traffic can be chaotic"
},
{
icon: "Ticket",
text: "Collect your tickets with plenty of time and go through security checks"
},
{
icon: "Luggage",
text: "Buy travel essentials in Xi'an before boarding overnight trains"
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you visited the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda? Did you explore Xi'an's Muslim Quarter? Have you taken a Chinese sleeper train? Share your Xi'an farewell experiences!*
### Xi'an City Wall
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/xian-city-wall
Location: Xi'an, China
Date: 2017-09-04
For our sixth day in China, we stayed in Xi'an. Xi'an is the oldest city in the country and China's original capital.
## Cycling the Ancient Wall
A fun way to explore the city, 12 metres above ground, is to rent a bicycle and ride the 13.74 kilometres long city wall. It's the oldest and best preserved Chinese city wall - a big giant square surrounding and protecting Xi'an and its inhabitants.
We highly recommend navigating the ancient fortifications by bike as it can be a very long and monotonous walk. We didn't find the surrounding scenery always attractive or interesting but the bike makes it all more fun.
It was slightly raining that day, but it didn't spoil the pleasure of cycling Xi'an's Wall. We started from the South Gate (which is also the most impressive Gate) and finished at the same gate. Along the way, we passed by 5,948 crenellations, namely battlements, and 98 ramparts spaced out at 120 metres to allow the archers' bows to reach their enemies.
## Sichuan Pepper Experience
To finish the day, we found a charming restaurant, and we tasted a Sichuan pepper based dish and the famous Xi'an veggie noodles. The meal was not hot or pungent but it left a tingling and numbing sensation that enveloped our lips for a few minutes. Weird. We never experienced that sensation before. Or maybe just when we visited our dentist.
Rent a bicycle! The wall is 13.74km long - cycling is much more fun than walking"
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "The wall is 12 meters above ground - offers unique views of both old and new Xi'an"
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Start at South Gate - it's the most impressive gate and a popular entry point"
},
{
icon: "History",
text: "Features 5,948 crenellations (battlements) and 98 ramparts spaced 120m apart for defensive archery"
},
{
icon: "Cloud",
text: "The wall is enjoyable even in light rain - perfect rectangular route around the old city"
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Try Sichuan pepper dishes - they create a unique tingling, numbing sensation on your lips"
},
{
icon: "Noodles",
text: "Don't miss Xi'an veggie noodles - a local specialty"
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Allow 2-3 hours to cycle the entire wall at a leisurely pace"
},
{
icon: "Camera",
text: "The scenery isn't always spectacular but the experience of riding ancient fortifications is memorable"
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you cycled Xi'an's City Wall? Which gate did you start from? Have you experienced the numbing sensation of Sichuan peppercorns? Share your Xi'an cycling adventure!*
### Terracotta Warriors
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/terracotta-warriors
Location: Xi'an, China
Date: 2017-09-03
After a good night sleep, in a larger bed than usual, we were full of energy and excitement for our next big experience: The Army of Terracotta Warriors.
## Journey to the Terracotta Warriors
Going from the east square of Xi'an railway station to the terracotta sculptures can be done by the 306 bus also called the tourist line 5. We were confronted with many touts trying to hustle us into their private bus but we stuck to our plans to use local buses. After an hour drive, we found the ticket office and bought our entry to the archaeological site. The adventure was about to get real.
## The Terracotta Army
The Terracotta Army was ordered by China's first emperor, Qin Shi Huang, when he was only 13. It took 40 years and over 700,000 workers to assemble and paint the soldiers. The remaining figures - warriors, archers, chariots and horses - are incredible. You can't imagine how spectacular the clay army must have been 2,400 years ago.
## Xi'anese Cuisine
For dinner, we picked two traditional dishes of the Xi'anese cuisine. First, we tried the very wide and hand-stretched noodles named `Biangbiang`. They're so wide and so long, you only get one in your bowl. Funny story, the word `Biang` is the most complex Chinese character with a total of 58 strokes. Next, we tried the Xi'an meat burger named `Roujiamo`. It's shredded braised meat - pork, lamb or beef - pocketed in baked leavened bread. Just delicious.
After the cheapest dinner we had so far in China (5 pounds for 2 plates and 2 beers), we took a bus to Huaqing Hot Springs.
## Song of Everlasting Sorrow
Huaqing Pool is a complex of hot springs situated at the northern foot of Mount Li. It's also home to the dramatic interpretation of famous Chinese poet Bai Juyi's masterpiece, "The Song of Everlasting Sorrow".
The `Song of Everlasting Sorrow` details the events surrounding the death of the lady Yang Guifei during the Anshi Rebellion in 755. Yang Guifei was the beloved concubine of the Emperor Xuanzong of Tang.
This hour-long show, performed on an outdoor stage set against the magnificent natural backdrop of Lishan Mountain was a blast. Everything was just impressive: the lights, the special effects, the music, the costumes and the stellar performances of the actors. The mountain played a major role as it fully becomes part of the stage. We have lived in London for 8 years and that could well surpass all the musicals we have seen in the city. Flabbergasted by the spectacle, it was time to go "home" and make up our own dreams...
## Amazing Facts About the Terracotta Warriors
1. The Terracotta Warriors are life-sized (1.78m - 1.90m) clay soldiers buried in battle formation near Xi'an, China. Every soldier is singular with realistic and distinctive facial features. The figures vary in height, clothing and even hairstyles, all in accordance with their rank.
2. The figures were not only depicting soldiers, troopers, archers or generals. Officials, acrobats, strongmen, concubines, musicians and even birds have also been uncovered.
3. At some point, over 700,000 labourers were forced to work (until death) on the Terracotta Warriors.
4. The Terracotta Army took 40 years to be constructed and most likely stopped when the emperor died.
5. The tomb contains more than 8,000 soldiers.
6. The construction for emperor Qin started when he ascended the throne at the age of 13.
7. The Terracotta Army was constructed over 2,200 years ago. The tomb was only discovered by chance in 1974 by local farmers. It makes it one of the greatest discoveries of the 20th century.
8. The soldiers, horses, and chariots were all painted with bright pigments. Unfortunately, when the figures were unearthed, their paint curled up and withered away in seconds.
9. The Terracotta Army is only part of a garrison in Qin Shi Huang's mausoleum, which covers 56 square kilometres. More warriors could be unveiled in the future.
10. Around 130 chariots and hundreds of horses were buried as part of the extraordinary military formation. Thousands of real weapons including battle axes, crossbows, spears and arrowheads were also uncovered.
Getting there: Take bus 306 (Tourist Line 5) from Xi'an Railway Station east square - about 1 hour journey"
},
{
icon: "AlertTriangle",
text: "Avoid touts offering private buses - stick to official public buses for safety and fair pricing"
},
{
icon: "Ticket",
text: "Purchase entry tickets at the archaeological site ticket office"
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "The site contains over 8,000 life-sized terracotta soldiers, each with unique facial features"
},
{
icon: "History",
text: "Constructed over 2,200 years ago by China's first emperor Qin Shi Huang (started age 13, took 40 years, 700,000+ workers)"
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Must-try Xi'an food: Biangbiang noodles (widest noodles, most complex Chinese character) and Roujiamo (Chinese hamburger)"
},
{
icon: "DollarSign",
text: "Dining is very affordable - we paid £5 for 2 plates and 2 beers!"
},
{
icon: "Sparkles",
text: "Evening show: 'Song of Everlasting Sorrow' at Huaqing Hot Springs - spectacular outdoor performance with Mount Li as backdrop"
},
{
icon: "Theater",
text: "The show features impressive lights, special effects, music, costumes - potentially better than West End musicals!"
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "The show is one hour long - book tickets in advance and take a bus to Huaqing Hot Springs"
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you visited the Terracotta Warriors? Which pit impressed you most? Did you try Biangbiang noodles or see the 'Song of Everlasting Sorrow' show? Share your Xi'an experiences!*
### Beijing to Xi'an
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/beijing-xian
Location: Xi'an, China
Date: 2017-09-02
Today we are leaving Beijing for Xi'an but before we do, we want to catch the last glimpse of Tiananmen Square and the major buildings surrounding it - the Monument to the People's Heroes, the Great Hall of the People, the National Museum of China, and the Mausoleum of Mao Zedong.
## Farewell to Beijing
After a Chinese breakfast - some kind of sweet yogurt and a tiny creamy tart, we were heading to the square. The place is massive. Not such a surprise it could hold half a million people. We were far from that number on that day but many Chinese like to visit the area. Two Belgians travelling the world set foot on that square that day.
## Bullet Train Experience
Time flies when you're having fun, and we had to rush back to the hostel to get ready for our first bullet train. Getting the train tickets was stressful but simple when you know the drill. Just don't forget to bring your passport and get the instructions translated in Chinese.
The bullet train is, to be honest, more exciting before departure as you pass by its impressive streamlined forefront. Inside, it's clean and comfortable and you don't feel like you're riding at 330 km per hour.
In less than 5 hours, we arrived at Xi'an.
## Welcome to Xi'an
It was already late but we couldn't wait to explore the city. A quick shower to freshen up and we went strolling in the Muslim Quarter. That place was unique. The smells and colours were all around. Locals like to kill time and grab a bite among the food stalls and restaurants serving honey cakes, dried fruits and barbecued meat on skewers. The freshness and cleanliness might be questionable by our European standards but we promised ourselves to come back for some `chuan'er` - small beef or lamb skewers fully coated in chilli pepper and cumin powder.
High-speed rail: Bullet trains travel at 330 km/h - smooth, clean, and comfortable"
},
{
icon: "Ticket",
text: "Book tickets in advance - bring your passport and have your destination written in Chinese characters"
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Visit Tiananmen Square before departure - allow extra time as the square is massive (can hold 500,000 people)"
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Major landmarks around Tiananmen: Monument to the People's Heroes, Great Hall of the People, National Museum, Mao's Mausoleum"
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Muslim Quarter is a must-visit in Xi'an - vibrant atmosphere with unique smells and colors"
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Try chuan'er (串儿) - grilled beef or lamb skewers coated in chili pepper and cumin powder"
},
{
icon: "ShoppingBag",
text: "Muslim Quarter food stalls offer honey cakes, dried fruits, and barbecued meat - hygiene standards may differ from Western expectations"
},
{
icon: "Moon",
text: "The Muslim Quarter is lively at night - perfect for evening exploration after arriving in Xi'an"
}
]}
/>
Pin These Moments
*Have you taken the bullet train in China? What was your speed record? Have you explored Xi'an's Muslim Quarter at night? What's your favorite street food there? Share your experiences!*
### Mutianyu Great Wall
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/the-great-wall-mutianyu-section
Location: Beijing, China
Date: 2017-09-01
After Ronald Reagan and Queen Elizabeth II, it's our turn to set foot on the Great Wall commonly called the Long Wall by Chinese people. We picked the Mutianyu section as it's supposed to be less crowded with astonishing panoramas and decent facilities including a toboggan. Yes, a massive toboggan track to take you down to the base.
## Getting to Mutianyu
The fastest and cheapest way to reach Mutianyu is the '916 Express' bus departing from the Dongzhimen Station. Our idea was to take that bus and find tourists to share a taxi for the last 18km remaining to reach the Great Wall. What happened was slightly different to what we had planned...
Three bus stops before we were supposed to exit, and as we were half sleeping in our seats, a man (that we thought to be a police officer) rush into the bus and ask us to follow him outside with another Chinese couple. Without understanding what was going on, we were outside, the bus was gone, and people were shouting in Chinese around us. Soon enough, we realised that we had been chosen by that Chinese couple to share a taxi with them. Being the only European on that bus, it was obvious we were also heading off to the Great Wall. Still, it was a very unusual and disturbing way to share a cab with someone. Lucky enough, the driver and our two new 'friends' for the ride were dropped at the entrance of one of the Wonders of the World and the adventure was about the get real.
## The Magnificent Wall
The wall is spectacular and is a bucket list travel destination if you are in Beijing. The wall is fully restored and family friendly. The 23 watch towers are spread out every 100 meters on an ascending mountain ridge. Some of the watchtowers built on the Mutianyu section are rare in the architectural history of the Great Wall. Both sides of the wall have a crenellated parapet which is also a rare feature of the wall. The soldiers could fire arrows at the enemy from both sides.
## Our Climbing Adventure
Wearing comfortable walking shoes, we challenged ourselves to explore most the 2.5 km stretch. We started by a pleasant chairlift to the Tower 6 and then we climbed one step at a time. Some steps more difficult than others. We could have used the cable car which takes you directly to Tower 14 but the chairlift was definitively more fun.
We ascended to the top of the hill enjoying the watchtowers and the fresh air they provided. Finally, we were there, at the last Tower 23. We sweat out all the water we had brought with us but we did it! Now, we could rest, and get rewarded with the most beautiful scenery of the wall snaking its way across the mountains. After more pictures and the must-do selfies, we headed back to where we started the ascension, a few hours ago, for the final thrill - the much-anticipated toboggan ride down.
## The Thrilling Toboggan Ride
The luge speed was controlled by pushing or pulling a lever between our legs. We tried to shoot downhill as fast as we could... just to be slow down by a Chinese man crawling down the track. Was he scared of heights?
It took only about five minutes to slide all the way down but the ride offered breathtaking views along the way. Can we do it again?
Overall, the Great Wall of China did not disappoint and will remain a highlight of our Chinese trip. As we took the all day to explore the wall, and as we were stuck in horrific traffic jams on our way back to Beijing downtown, we only end up the day by a relaxing meal and a cold beer!
## Why You Should Pick Mutianyu Over Badaling
- The Mutianyu section is much less crowded and hectic than the Badaling section.
- The toboggan ride is the icing on the cake.
- The transport from Beijing is a tiny more difficult for Mutianyu but still very easy.
- The Mutianyu section has also a "non-tourist" section. This section is not restored and you go on it at your own risk. It will give you a glimpse of the beauty of the wild Great Wall. So be careful if you dare and watch your steps as there are steeps drops at certain sections.
- The Mutianyu section is closer to Beijing than the Simatai or Jinshanling sections.
- Did we mention the toboggan ride ;-)
Getting there: Take the '916 Express' bus from Dongzhimen Station, then share a taxi for the final 18km"
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Allow a full day for the visit - factor in travel time and potential traffic jams on return to Beijing"
},
{
icon: "Mountain",
text: "The section: 2.5km stretch with 23 watchtowers spread every 100 meters on an ascending mountain ridge"
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Mutianyu is fully restored and family-friendly - rare feature with crenellated parapets on both sides"
},
{
icon: "CableCar",
text: "Getting up: Choose chairlift to Tower 6 (more fun!) or cable car to Tower 14 (faster)"
},
{
icon: "Zap",
text: "Toboggan ride: Don't miss the thrilling 5-minute luge ride down with breathtaking views - control speed with a lever"
},
{
icon: "Boot",
text: "Wear comfortable walking shoes - some steps are steep and challenging to climb"
},
{
icon: "Droplet",
text: "Bring plenty of water - you'll sweat it all out climbing to Tower 23!"
},
{
icon: "Users",
text: "Why Mutianyu? Less crowded than Badaling, toboggan ride, wild non-restored section available"
},
{
icon: "AlertTriangle",
text: "If exploring the non-restored 'wild' section, watch your steps - steep drops at certain points!"
}
]}
/>
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*Have you visited the Great Wall of China? Did you choose Mutianyu or another section? Did you try the toboggan ride? How many watchtowers did you climb? Share your Great Wall adventures!*
### The Forbidden City is Open
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/forbidden-city-open
Location: Beijing, China
Date: 2017-08-31
Early start today so we can enjoy a less crowded visit of Jingshan Park immediately north of the Forbidden City. We climbed all the way to the top of the hill to enjoy a breathtaking panorama of the Forbidden City.
## Morning at Jingshan Park
On our way back we caught up with the elderly. They gather in the imperial park for their morning routine of relaxing, dancing or performing the slow and graceful movements of tai chi.
## The Forbidden City
The next highlight of our Beijing exploration was the Forbidden City, also known as the Palace Museum. The north gate is exit only as the museum operates a one-way policy since 2011. So we walked to the South Gate also called Meridian Gate. Soon enough, we were queuing at the ticket office. The tickets in our pockets and the audio guide in our ears, we were ready to explore the 8,000 rooms. You can spend an hour or a full day within those walls. We settled for a few hours as we felt hungry.
## Peking Duck Lunch
For lunch, we tried the famous Peking duck. It's very different from the crispy duck we eat back home. Full of flavour, tender and juicy but not really crispy. Elegantly carved at your table, the skin and the meat are separated. The skin is accompanied by white sugar. The meat, on the other hand, can be consumed with garlic and the delicious plum sauce. So yummy.
## Summer Palace Adventure
After such a lunch, we felt the need for some exercise. The Summer Palace, considered one of the grandest Chinese gardens, was the perfect afternoon spot. As we arrived late, most of the museums and attractions were closed but the crowd was also gone. The deserted park was just for ourselves. The scenery is gorgeous from dawn to dusk. So there is no best time to see it. With the sunset coming fast, we ended up in the dark and in the middle of nowhere. We had to walk through the park with the flashlight of our smartphones. That was the perfect way to finish a busy but brilliant day...
Start early! Visit Jingshan Park first for panoramic views of the Forbidden City with fewer crowds"
},
{
icon: "Mountain",
text: "Climb Jingshan Hill for breathtaking views over the entire Forbidden City complex"
},
{
icon: "Users",
text: "Watch locals practicing tai chi and dancing in the imperial park in the morning"
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Forbidden City entrance: Use South Gate (Meridian Gate) - North gate is exit only since 2011"
},
{
icon: "Headphones",
text: "Rent an audio guide at the ticket office - essential for understanding the 8,000+ rooms"
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "The Forbidden City operates a one-way policy - plan your route accordingly"
},
{
icon: "Clock",
text: "Allow 2-4 hours for the Forbidden City depending on your interest level"
},
{
icon: "Utensils",
text: "Peking Duck: Skin served with white sugar, meat with garlic and plum sauce - very different from Western crispy duck!"
},
{
icon: "Leaf",
text: "Summer Palace: One of China's grandest gardens - beautiful from dawn to dusk"
},
{
icon: "Moon",
text: "Arrive late afternoon for fewer crowds, but bring a smartphone flashlight as the park closes at dusk!"
}
]}
/>
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*Have you visited the Forbidden City? Did you climb Jingshan Hill for the view? Have you tried authentic Peking duck? Did you get lost in the Summer Palace at sunset? Share your Beijing imperial adventures!*
### The First Day
URL: https://twotraveltheworld.com/en/diaries/first-day
Location: Beijing, China
Date: 2017-08-30
Today, we landed in Beijing. It's been an interesting but tiring day. After the 9-hour flight from Brussels, we ended up waiting 2 hours for a bus to the main Beijing train station. Buses do not run as often as you wish for, especially at 7 AM.
## Arrival in Beijing
Anyway, we managed to find our way to the city centre. Without a single word of Chinese, we boarded a local bus to arrive at our final destination - The Leo Hostel.
The hostel is in a bustling market street surrounded by Hutongs. Within walking distance of several well-known landmarks like the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square, the hostel offers nice, cosy and clean rooms. The staff speaks good English which is something you don't get to hear often in China. Anyway, we found most Chinese people very welcoming and helpful despite the language barrier.
## Exploring the Hutongs
After we freshened up and had a brief but stimulating nap, we walked in the Hutongs bordering our hostel. Hutongs are great places to watch people living. We were surprised to encounter so many official police officers and sometimes military-style uniforms. You literally can't walk 20 meters without spotting one peacefully watching the crowd.
## Olympic Park Visit
Having found a second breath, we took the metro for a final walk in the legacy Olympic Park which hosted the 2008 Summer Games. Starving, we went for a simple but delicious meal. Now, as we are feeling a little jet-lagged, we are leaving you for a good night's sleep...
Flight from Brussels: 9-hour direct flight to Beijing"
},
{
icon: "Bus",
text: "Airport buses to city center don't run frequently - expect 1-2 hour waits, especially early morning (7 AM)"
},
{
icon: "Home",
text: "The Leo Hostel: Located in Dashilan West Street, Xicheng - near Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square"
},
{
icon: "MapPin",
text: "Hostel is in a bustling market street surrounded by traditional Hutongs (narrow alleyways)"
},
{
icon: "Globe",
text: "English is rarely spoken in Beijing - staff at Leo Hostel speak good English, which is helpful"
},
{
icon: "Users",
text: "Chinese people are very welcoming and helpful despite language barriers"
},
{
icon: "Info",
text: "Hutongs: Traditional neighborhoods perfect for people-watching and experiencing local life"
},
{
icon: "Shield",
text: "Heavy police presence in central Beijing - you'll see officers every 20 meters monitoring crowds"
},
{
icon: "Stadium",
text: "Olympic Park (2008 Summer Games venue) is accessible by metro - worth a visit for sports enthusiasts"
},
{
icon: "Moon",
text: "Take a nap after arrival to combat jet lag, then explore in the afternoon/evening"
}
]}
/>
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*Have you been to Beijing? Where did you stay on your first day? Did you explore the Hutongs? How did you handle the language barrier? Share your Beijing arrival stories!*