We were awakened by the soothing sounds of Goa's lapping waves against the shore. As we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast by the beach at our resort, we spotted two traditional fishing boats in the bay, their nets cast wide. Were they fishing our dinner? The kingfish curry here was to die for.

After a relaxing day yesterday at Agonda Beach, we were ready for some exploration. We decided to hire a scooter to explore the beaches layered side-by-side along the South Goa coast. At ₹300 per day, the motorcycle was cheap and offered the perfect opportunity to get off the beaten track and see more than just our little slice of paradise.

The Police Stop

Minutes into our journey along the coastal road, enjoying the wind in our faces and the Arabian Sea sparkling to our right, the Goan Police pulled us over.

"International Driving Licence, please."

Our hearts sank. The international driving licence was kept safely in our hotel's safe back in Agonda. Oops! Of all the things to forget on a scooter trip, that was the most important one. In India, foreigners are legally required to have an international driving permit to operate any vehicle.

We explained the situation honestly - we had the licence, it was just back at the hotel for safekeeping. We weren't trying to ride illegally. The officers looked at each other, then at us, then back at each other. This could go one of two ways: a legitimate fine or a request for a "on-the-spot settlement" (i.e., a bribe).

Fortunately, the officials believed us. Perhaps our genuine embarrassment was convincing, or maybe they were in a generous mood. They gave us a warning and let us through without a fine or a bribe. "Next time, carry it with you," they advised sternly but not unkindly.

Lesson learned! We carried on toward Palolem Beach, this time a bit more carefully observing all traffic rules.

Palolem Beach: The Famous One

The ride from Agonda to Palolem took about 15 minutes along winding coastal roads. The landscape alternated between thick palm groves, small villages, and occasional glimpses of the turquoise sea.

Palolem Beach revealed itself gradually as we descended the hill into the village. The 1.5-kilometer stretch of white sand curves in a perfect crescent, bordered by coconut palms and colorful beach huts. This is Goa's most famous beach, known for its calm waters and for its chilled-out nightlife, including "silent discos" where partygoers wear headphones (to comply with noise restrictions while still partying after 10pm).

The beach gained international recognition when it was featured in the 2004 movie "The Bourne Supremacy." You know? (Spoiler alert) The one where Jason Bourne's girlfriend dies in the opening scenes. Watch the first 5 minutes of the movie again if you don't remember - that's Palolem Beach in all its beauty.

Comparing the Two Beaches

The streets of Palolem were noticeably busier than Agonda. More restaurants, more shops, more tourists, more activity. On the waterfront, cows roamed around where the grass meets the white powdery sand - a uniquely Indian beach scene. Plenty of stray dogs ran among them, some playing in the shallow water.

We walked the length of the beach, taking in the scene. There were more beach shacks here, more vendors selling sarongs and jewelry, more kayak rentals and dolphin-watching boat tours. The water was indeed calmer than Agonda - the bay's protected crescent shape shelters it from the Arabian Sea's powerful waves.

The ambience was definitely different from Agonda. Where Agonda was the cleanest and most deserted shore we'd visited in South Goa, Palolem was livelier, more developed, more international. Both beautiful, but serving different needs.

Choosing Our Paradise

To be completely honest, we preferred Agonda. Palolem was lovely, but we weren't looking for the backpacker scene or silent discos. We wanted peace, empty beaches, and the sound of waves rather than headphones. After exploring Palolem for a couple of hours, we headed back to our beach hut made of bamboo and banana leaves in Agonda.

The ride back was glorious - the afternoon sun warming our shoulders, the sea breeze keeping us cool, and now with our international driving licence knowledge firmly in mind for tomorrow's adventures.

We freshened up with an outdoor shower and prepared for another evening by the beach, feasting once again at JoJo Lapa's restaurant. As the sun set over the Arabian Sea, we realized we'd found our Goa rhythm: explore in the morning, beach in the afternoon, feast in the evening, sleep to the sound of waves.

Have you visited Palolem Beach? Did you try the silent disco? Have you been stopped at a Goa police checkpoint? Which do you prefer - quiet Agonda or lively Palolem?