Kunming to Guilin
5:00 AM - The alarm clock rang. We opened our heavy eyelids, showered and packed up our stuff one more time.
5:45 AM - The guy at the reception was sleeping on the couch by the front door. We made substantial noises to wake him up so we could complete our early checkout and get our deposit back.
The Wrong Train Station
6:00 AM - We passed the security scan with no issue. The guards didn't spot our Swiss Army Knives. At the check-in counter, the employee spoke in Chinese as he controlled our train tickets. Soon we realised, we were not at the right train station. Our train at 8 in the morning was leaving from the Kunming South Train Station, not from the Main Station. Oops!
6:10 AM - With no time to waste we rushed out the station. After arguing with private drivers on the journey fare, we boarded an official taxi.
7:00 AM - We paid 78 yuan for the taxi and we were glad we made it on time.
7:05 AM - Damn it! The security scan has flagged up our utility knife. We argued with the guards to keep it. That didn't work out...
7:20 AM - We lost our second "fruit knife" as they called it. The first one was spotted and confiscated a few days ago in similar conditions in the same city.
8:00 AM - Frustrated, we boarded our first high-speed train for the day.
Arriving in Guilin
14:00 - After 2 trains, a public bus and 2 cold beers, we started sightseeing Guilin which is remarkable for its dramatic karst topography. The town is built along the water. You didn't walk far before we reached the Two Rivers and Four Lakes spot. The scenery includes the Li River, Taohuajiang River, Mulong Lake, Guihu Lake, Ronghu Lake and Shanhu Lake.
Elephant Trunk Hill
15:00 - We strolled up to the 3.5 million years old Elephant Trunk Hill (象鼻山). The popular scenic spot is the emblem of Guilin. The Elephant Trunk Hill sits at the confluence of the Li River and the Taohuajiang River. The height of this rock structure is 55 metres and has a curious form, like an elephant sucking water from the river, hence the name.
16:00 - As we were wandering along the canals, we met an English teacher. We learned about his family and his life in the nearby village of Yangshuo. The town is famous for its traditional dish - Beer Fish. Fresh carps from the Li River cooked in a unique way with beer. Unfortunately, we didn't manage to find a traditional restaurant in Guilin.
We also learned about the traditional Cormorant fishing method in which fishermen use trained cormorants to fish in rivers. Fishermen tie a cord around the bird's throat, loose enough for them to eat small fish, but tight enough so they can not swallow larger fish. The procedure seems a bit cruel and inhuman but has been practised for hundreds of years.
17:00 - The man tried to sell us a massage in a nearby parlour and tickets for a once a year acrobatic show (Dreamlike Li River Show) which happen to run every day. We kindly refused and kept on walking along the canals. We could see swimmers in the Li river. With the hot and humid weather, we could have plunged into the water to cool down.
Cormorant Fishing at Sunset
20:00 - The sunset came fast and we got the rare opportunity to get a closer look at the Cormorant fishing. That was mindblowing but we still felt bad for the birds.
Visiting Guilin
- Important: Double-check which train station your train departs from - Kunming has multiple stations!
- Swiss Army knives and utility knives are often confiscated at Chinese train station security
- Elephant Trunk Hill is Guilin's most iconic landmark - worth visiting for photos
- The weather is hot and humid - stay hydrated and seek shade during midday
- Cormorant fishing demonstrations typically happen at sunset - check with locals for exact times
- For authentic Beer Fish, head to Yangshuo village rather than Guilin city
Note:
Pin These Moments
🐘 Elephant Trunk Hill
Guilin's iconic 55-meter rock formation at the confluence of the Li and Taohuajiang Rivers
🎣 Cormorant Fishing
Witnessing the ancient fishing tradition where fishermen use trained cormorants to catch fish
⛰️ Karst Mountains
Exploring Guilin's stunning Two Rivers and Four Lakes surrounded by dramatic karst peaks
Have you been to Guilin? Did you witness the cormorant fishing? What was your experience with China's high-speed rail system? Share your stories below!