We left, not without regrets, the JoJo Lapa Agonda resort. After three blissful days, it was hard to say goodbye. No beggars, no touts, no ferocious arguments about the right price to pay - just three relaxing and rejuvenating days at one of coastal India's best-kept secrets. But Hampi was calling, and we needed to position ourselves for the journey ahead.

Sunrise at Agonda: One Last Time

But before leaving, we couldn't resist one final experience of Agonda Beach. We woke before dawn and went running along the empty and secluded beach at sunrise. The sky transformed from deep blue to pink to orange as the sun climbed above the Arabian Sea. The sand was cool and firm from the night, perfect for running.

Running on sand was harder than we'd expected - each step sinking slightly, our calves working overtime. But we could cool off and refresh ourselves - and add some thrill - with quick dips in the strong waves that roll onto Agonda Beach. The lifeguards weren't on duty yet, so we stayed close to shore, but the water was invigorating.

Back at the resort, we ate a substantial breakfast of delicious wheat pancakes, fresh fruit, and strong coffee while contemplating the sandy beach and the coconut palms swaying in the sea breeze one last time. A few friendly stray dogs came by looking for scraps - our constant companions during our Agonda days. We took final photos and said our goodbyes to the staff who had been so welcoming.

Then we boarded the prepaid taxi and headed north.

The Portuguese Coast

The drive from South Goa to North Goa took about an hour along coastal roads. The landscape told a fascinating story of Goa's unique history.

On the way, we spotted many Catholic crosses, convents, and churches - striking white-washed buildings with baroque architecture completely unlike anything we'd seen elsewhere in India. These remnants reminded us that Goa was a Portuguese colony for 450 years until it was annexed by India in 1961. Even today, about a quarter of Goa's 1.5 million people are Catholic rather than Hindu - a legacy of centuries of Portuguese rule.

We passed through small villages where the influence was even more obvious - Portuguese-style villas with terracotta roofs, crosses at intersections, and old stone churches. Street signs bore Portuguese names alongside English and Konkani. The cultural blend was fascinating.

Bogmalo Beach: Strategic Location

We arrived at Bogmalo Beach in central Goa (despite the title, this isn't quite "North Goa" in the tourist sense - that would be Calangute, Baga, and Anjuna). The beach was smaller than Agonda or Palolem - just a kilometer-long curve of sand - but it had a crucial advantage: location.

Bogmalo sits just 4 kilometers from Goa International Airport and about 8 kilometers from Madgaon Railway Station. This made the area a strategic base for our next trips to Hampi and later to Kerala's backwaters in Alappuzha. We weren't here to relax on the beach - we'd had our fill of that in Agonda. We were here to position ourselves for our inland adventure.

The beach itself was pleasant enough - cleaner than many North Goa beaches, less crowded, with a few good beach shacks. We found a beautiful restaurant overlooking the water called Joet's Bar and Restaurant ↗ and indulged ourselves in good Goan dishes. Fish curry, prawn balchão, vegetable xacuti - the Goan-Portuguese fusion cuisine was delicious. Yummy indeed!

Logistics and Preparation

After lunch, we faced some practical necessities. We were desperate to find an ATM (to pay for our guesthouse in cash) and a supermarket (to buy snacks for tomorrow's long train journey to Hampi). The guesthouse staff directed us to nearby Dabolim village, near the airport.

We jumped on a local bus - a colorful, crowded experience quite different from our prepaid taxis. The bus rattled along at maximum capacity, locals squeezing in at every stop, Hindi film music blaring from scratchy speakers. It cost about ₹15 and took 20 minutes what would have been a ₹200 taxi ride. Budget travel at its finest.

In Dabolim, we found both ATM and supermarket. With rupees in our wallets and a bag full of biscuits, chips, and bottled water for the train, we jumped on another local bus back to Bogmalo Beach.

The sun was setting as we arrived back at our guesthouse. We took a brief evening walk along Bogmalo Beach - much quieter than our beloved Agonda, but pleasant enough. Tomorrow would be an early start for the train to Hampi, so we retired early for a good night's sleep.

As we drifted off, we could hear the waves of the Arabian Sea one more night - though tomorrow would take us inland to the ancient ruins and boulder-strewn landscapes of Hampi.

Have you stayed in Bogmalo Beach? Did you notice Goa's Portuguese influence? What's your strategy for positioning between destinations?