Heading for Alappuzha
AlappuzhaKeralaTravel DayBackwatersFlight

Heading for Alappuzha

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Alappuzha, India
David
Writer
Kro
Photographer
Published on
Tuesday, October 10, 2017

We were back at Goa's Dabolim Airport via local bus for two consecutive flights that would take us to Kerala - India's southwestern coastal state known for its palm-lined beaches, tranquil backwaters, and rich cultural heritage. Our destination: Alappuzha, known as the 'Venice of the East' and famous for its backwaters, traditional houseboats, and magnificent natural beauty.

The Journey South

The local bus from Bogmalo Beach to the airport cost just ₹15 and took 10 minutes. We'd become quite efficient at navigating Goa's public transport system.

Our first flight took us from Goa to Mumbai - just an hour northeast. A short layover at Mumbai's chaotic domestic terminal, then we boarded the second flight southwest to Kochi (also known as Cochin), Kerala's largest city and main transport hub.

As we descended into Kochi, the landscape transformed dramatically. The dry, rocky terrain of Karnataka gave way to lush tropical greenery. Palm trees everywhere. Rice paddies glowing impossibly green. Networks of waterways and canals snaking through the landscape - the famous Kerala backwaters we'd come to experience.

Landing in God's Own Country

Kerala proudly calls itself "God's Own Country," and from the air, you could see why. Everything was green - emerald rice paddies, coconut groves, rubber plantations, spice gardens. The Western Ghats mountains rose in the distance, covered in jungle. The Arabian Sea sparkled along the coast.

We landed at Kochi International Airport in the late afternoon. The air felt different here - more humid, more tropical, fresher than the dusty plains of Hampi or even coastal Goa. The smell of spices and flowers seemed to permeate everything.

To Alappuzha

From Kochi airport, we took a prepaid taxi for the 55-kilometer journey south to Alappuzha (also spelled Alleppey - the British colonial name). The drive took about 90 minutes through quintessential Kerala scenery.

We passed through small towns with Portuguese and Dutch colonial architecture - reminders that Kerala's coast had been a crucial spice trade hub for centuries. We saw coconut vendors selling fresh toddy (palm wine), fishermen mending nets, women in colorful saris, and an astonishing number of communist party flags (Kerala is one of the few places where a communist government has been democratically elected repeatedly).

As we entered Alappuzha, we started seeing what we'd come for - the backwaters. Canals paralleled the roads. Traditional rice barges slowly motored past. Massive houseboats - Kerala's famous kettuvallam - were moored along the banks.

Arrival and Rest

We checked into our hotel exhausted from the day of travel - local bus, two flights, long taxi ride. We freshened up and collapsed onto the beds. Tomorrow we'd explore Alappuzha properly and book our houseboat experience. But tonight, we just needed sleep.

From our hotel window, we could see a canal. Palm trees swayed in the evening breeze. The air smelled of coconut and curry leaves. Somewhere in the distance, we could hear temple bells and traditional Kerala music.

We'd made it to Kerala - the final state on our Indian adventure before eventually heading back north. And tomorrow, we'd discover why Alappuzha's backwaters are considered one of the most beautiful places in all of India.

Tip

Getting to Alappuzha from Goa

  • Flight Route: Goa → Mumbai → Kochi. Or Goa → Bangalore → Kochi. Total 3-5 hours with layover. Direct Goa-Kochi sometimes available (check IndiGo, SpiceJet). Book 2-3 weeks ahead: ₹4000-8000 return.
  • Kochi to Alappuzha: 55km, 90min drive. Prepaid taxi ₹1500-2000 from airport. Cheaper: local bus to Kochi city (₹100), then bus to Alappuzha (₹50, 2 hours). Private taxi convenient after long flight!
  • Alternative by Train: Goa to Alappuzha by train possible but LONG (16-20 hours, multiple changes). Flights faster and often cheaper when booked ahead. Train only if you love Indian railways!
  • Alappuzha Overview: Also called Alleppey. 'Venice of the East' with canals, backwaters, houseboats. Gateway to Kerala backwater tours. Beach also available. Base for Kumarakom, Kottayam day trips.
  • Accommodation: Budget ₹800-2000 (guesthouses), mid-range ₹2000-5000 (hotels with AC), luxury ₹5000-15000 (resorts/heritage homes). Book near North Canal or Beach Road for convenient location.
  • Best Time: Oct-March ideal (25-30°C, dry). Monsoon June-Sept (heavy rain, lush but wet). April-May hot (35°C+). Famous Nehru Trophy boat race in August (monsoon but spectacular!).
  • Why 'Venice of East': Network of canals, lagoons, lakes. Built on land between Arabian Sea and Vembanad Lake. Historically major rice trade port. Now houseboat tourism capital. Still has working cargo boats!
  • Houseboat Preview: Traditional kettuvallam (rice barges) converted to floating hotels. Range ₹6000-30,000/night depending on size/luxury. Cruise backwaters 12pm-5pm, moor for dinner/night, return morning. Book in advance!
  • Kerala Cuisine: Different from North India! Coconut-based curries, seafood, appam (rice pancakes), puttu (steamed rice cake), toddy (palm wine). Try fish molee, prawn curry, beef fry. Delicious!
  • Eco-Awareness: Backwaters facing pollution from houseboats. Look for eco-friendly options (solar-powered, proper waste disposal). Responsible tourism helps preserve this paradise. Ask about environmental practices!
  • Language: Malayalam spoken in Kerala (completely different from Hindi!). English widely understood in tourist areas. Learning 'Namaskaram' (hello) appreciated. Accent different - may need to speak slowly.
  • Kerala Politics: Communist government democratically elected (unique in India!). Red flags everywhere. Don't be alarmed - tourism welcomed! High literacy (94%), good healthcare, progressive policies. Fascinating history.

Note:

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Have you traveled to Kerala? How did you get from Goa to Alappuzha? What were your first impressions of Kerala's backwaters?