Mahabalipuram
We set out for Mahabalipuram or Mamallapuram, as the town is known today, a tourist and remarkable city 60 kilometres south of Chennai. The charming city with its temples, beaches, colourful houses, and many rock sculptors is a perfect gateway form the busy Chennai. We explored in a few hours the main sightseeing scattered around including the Krishna's Butterball, the lighthouse, Arjuna's Penance, the Five Rathas and the Shore temple.
Krishna's Butterball: Defying Gravity
We started by the Krishna's Butterball and were bluffed by the structure in defiance of all laws of physics. The gigantic granite boulder, weighing around 250 tons, is resting on a short incline in the historical town. No one seems able to budge it. Even the seven elephants which attend to move the rock in 1908.
Shore Temple and the Five Rathas
The Shore temple, which is now UNESCO heritage site, was costly for the foreigners at 500 rupees but it gave us access to the Five Rathas. The Five Rathas (or chariots) was the highlight of our trip to the Mahabalipuram. Each chariot was carved out a single and long stone was astonishing.
Diwali Celebrations in Full Swing
As we strolling along the city we could not forget that the Diwali celebrations were booming. We use this word for a good reason. The vibrant festival of lights is without a doubt one of the biggest and noisiest religious celebrations in India. Everywhere locals were exploding dozens of firecrackers to express their joy and were shouting Happy Diwali as we were passing by. The story behind Diwali in Tamil Nadu is different from other places in India. Most Tamilians celebrate this day as the death of the evil demon Narakasura, a feared demon, at the hands of Lord Krishna.
The Diwali is not only about fire and setting off explosives. It's also about spending time with family, eating sweets, buying gifts, and celebrates gods. The noise is just the obvious part as Indian people are setting off a shit load of explosives during those days. So much that some cities, like Delhi, are banning the sale of firecrackers!
Visiting Mahabalipuram: Essential tips
- Getting There: Located 60km south of Chennai (1.5-2 hours by car). Hire a taxi for the day (₹2,000-3,000) or take local buses (₹50-100) from Chennai CMBT.
- Entry Fees: Shore Temple & Five Rathas: ₹500 for foreigners, ₹35 for Indians. This ticket covers both sites. Keep your ticket as it's checked at both locations.
- Best Time to Visit: Early morning (6-9am) or late afternoon (4-6pm) to avoid midday heat. Sites open sunrise to sunset. Allow 4-5 hours to see all major attractions.
- Photography: Photography is allowed at all sites. The Shore Temple looks stunning at sunset. Krishna's Butterball is perfect for perspective photos.
- Dress Code: Dress modestly. Shoulders and knees should be covered when entering temple areas. Shoes must be removed at certain sites.
- Weather Prep: Bring sunscreen, hat, and water. October-February is ideal (25-30°C). Avoid March-May when temperatures exceed 35°C.
- Diwali Festival: If visiting during Diwali (October/November), expect fireworks, celebrations, and crowds. Locals are friendly but it's very noisy with constant firecrackers.
- Guides: Local guides available at entrance (₹500-800). They provide excellent historical context. Alternatively, download an audio guide app before visiting.
- Food: Several restaurants along the beach road serve fresh seafood. Try Moonrakers or Le Yogi. Budget ₹300-500 per person for a good meal.
- Beach Time: Mahabalipuram Beach near Shore Temple is lovely for sunset. The beach is cleaner than Chennai's beaches and perfect for relaxing after temple visits.
Note:
Krishna's Butterball: Ancient Mystery in Mahabalipuram
Mahabalipuram's Five Rathas: Ancient Rock-Cut Architecture
Have you visited Mahabalipuram's ancient temples? What's your favorite UNESCO World Heritage site in India? Did you experience Diwali celebrations during your travels?