Leaving Varanesi
GoaAgonda BeachTravel DayBeach ParadiseIndia Scams

Leaving Varanesi

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Agonda, India
David
Writer
Kro
Photographer
Published on
Monday, October 2, 2017

We are going to GOA! After weeks navigating the intensity, chaos, and occasional frustrations of North India, we were finally heading south to India's beach paradise. Goa promised palm trees, Arabian Sea beaches, fresh seafood, and a much-needed dose of relaxation.

But first, we had one more Indian travel challenge to overcome.

Departure Dramas

We started the day with a shady driver trying to get extra money for the prepaid car we had booked through the hotel. This was supposedly a "fixed price" transfer to the airport, but suddenly he was demanding additional fees for "luggage" and "airport entry." We refused, smiled politely, and entered the airport without tipping the dishonest employee. You learn quickly in India to stand your ground.

Travel scams in India happen everywhere and all the time. Most of the time, it's just overcharging for the services provided, but it sometimes gets worse. We had been sold tap water in sealed bottles (the seal had been carefully broken and reglued). A tour guide brought us to a high-pressure sales pitch for overpriced carpets. Countless street beggars including young children followed us for money - some have been following us for over 10 minutes before giving up. It's hard not to give them cash, but experienced travelers and locals alike warn that it can make things worse.

The flight from Varanasi to Goa was smooth and mercifully uneventful. As we descended, we could see the coastline stretching below - golden beaches, swaying palm trees, and the turquoise Arabian Sea. This was a completely different India.

Welcome to Goa

As we arrived at Goa's Dabolim Airport, we were pleasantly surprised. Unlike the aggressive touts in Delhi and Varanasi, here there was an organized prepaid taxi system. The prices were clearly displayed for each beach, and even if they were more expensive than local rates, they were official and approved by the government. ₹2000 INR for 77 km to Agonda Beach was still a reasonable fare. More importantly, it was transparent and hassle-free.

The drive south along the coast was beautiful. We passed through towns with Portuguese colonial architecture, churches alongside temples, rice paddies giving way to coconut groves. Goa felt different - more laid-back, more international, less chaotic. This was partly because Goa was a Portuguese colony for 450 years (until 1961), giving it a unique cultural blend quite different from the rest of India.

Agonda Beach Paradise

We checked in at JoJo Lapa Agonda Resort, set amidst beautiful coconut palms just steps from Agonda Beach. After cramped hotel rooms in Delhi and basic guesthouses in Varanasi, this felt like absolute luxury - even though it was just a simple beach hut.

The Agonda beach's gentle curvature offered a splendid view of the entire picture-perfect environment from both ends. Unlike the crowded beaches of North Goa, Agonda was peaceful and undeveloped. A few beach shacks, some fishing boats, and miles of clean sand. This was what we'd been dreaming about.

Gandhi Jayanti Celebrations

We had arrived on Gandhi Jayanti - a national festival marking the birthday of Mahatma Gandhi, the Father of the Nation. Goa is one of the rare Indian states where it's legal to consume alcohol, but not on this dry day when the entire country honors Gandhi's principles.

So we settled for delicious mocktails at the beach bar and feasted on curries and fresh seafood at a restaurant right on the seafront of the Arabian Sea. The food was incredible - fish curry, prawn masala, butter garlic crab, all spiced to perfection. With our bellies full and the sound of waves in the background, we retired to our beach hut for the best sleep we'd had since leaving Hong Kong.

After the sensory assault of North India, Goa felt like a healing balm. We could finally breathe.

Tip

Varanasi to Goa travel guide

  • Flights: Varanasi to Goa (Dabolim) via Delhi/Mumbai. Direct flights rare. 3-5 hours with layover. Book IndiGo, SpiceJet, Air India. ₹3000-8000 depending on season.
  • Travel Scams: Common in North India: fake water bottles, overcharging, pressure sales, persistent beggars. Stay firm but polite. Use prepaid services. Don't give to child beggars (encourages exploitation).
  • Airport Transport: Goa Airport has official prepaid taxi counter. Fixed rates to beaches: Agonda ₹2000-2500 (77km, 2 hours). Calangute ₹600-800 (30km). No haggling needed!
  • Agonda Beach: South Goa's hidden gem. Peaceful, clean, undeveloped. 3km of golden sand. Less crowded than North Goa beaches (Calangute, Baga). Perfect for relaxation, not party scene.
  • Alcohol Laws: Goa is one of few Indian states where alcohol is legal and cheap. BUT dry days on national holidays (Gandhi Jayanti Oct 2, Independence Day Aug 15, Republic Day Jan 26).
  • Food Scene: Goa offers incredible seafood - fish curry, prawn masala, crab, lobster. Eat at beach shacks for best value (₹300-600/meal). Fresh catch daily. Also Portuguese dishes (vindaloo, sorpotel).
  • Best Time: Nov-Feb perfect weather (25-30°C, dry). March-May hot (35°C+). June-Sept monsoon season (many places close). Oct shoulder season - good deals, occasional rain.
  • Accommodation: Agonda has beach huts (₹1500-4000), guesthouses (₹800-2000), resorts (₹3000-10000+). Book ahead Nov-Feb. Beachfront worth extra cost. Many close May-September.
  • Transport in Goa: Rent scooter/motorcycle (₹300-500/day) for freedom to explore. Bring international license. Or hire taxi for day trips (₹2000-3000). Local buses cheap but slow.
  • Cultural Shift: Goa is VERY different from North India. More relaxed, international, beach culture. Bikinis OK (not in rest of India). English widely spoken. It's a breather after intense North India!
  • Budget: Goa more expensive than North India but still cheap by Western standards. Budget ₹2000-3500/day (accommodation, food, transport). Mid-range ₹4000-8000/day. Luxury ₹10000+/day.
  • South vs North Goa: South (Agonda, Palolem, Patnem) is peaceful, less developed. North (Calangute, Baga, Anjuna) has nightlife, water sports, crowds. Choose based on what you want!

Note:

Have you experienced the culture shock of going from North India to Goa? What Indian travel scams have you encountered? Which Goa beach is your favorite?