We were still at Hampi - this remarkable hamlet in Karnataka (not Kerala!) and UNESCO World Heritage Site that feels like stepping into another world. Today we'd explore the temples and monuments that make Hampi one of India's most spectacular archaeological sites.

Morning at the River

Dozens of people went down to the Tungabhadra River bank for their morning routine - washing their clothes, bathing, or performing their ritual prayer or 'puja'. We followed them, not to bathe but to admire the boulder-strewn landscape, the temple flanked by the river, and the many deities carved out in the stones. The scenery was postcard material - golden morning light illuminating the massive boulders, the ancient temple towers reflected in the calm water.

We met a few pilgrims and exchanged words about our lives and what brought us to Hampi. They were surprised to meet Europeans in such a remote place. We explained we'd come all the way from Belgium specifically to see Hampi. They seemed pleased that their holy site attracted visitors from so far away.

Around 7:30am, Lakshmi - the temple elephant - passed by us for his morning shower in the Tungabhadra River. Each day, the old pachyderm walks down from Virupaksha Temple and dips in the water for the amusement of tourists and locals alike. The elephant seemed to enjoy the cool water, spraying himself with his trunk while handlers scrubbed his massive sides.

Not being fans of wild animals kept captive for religious or tourist purposes, we had mixed feelings about that ancestral practice. Lakshmi appeared well-cared for, but an elephant belongs in the wild, not performing in a temple.

Temple Hopping by Scooter

We skipped the tour guide offers and rented a scooter to explore, at our own pace, the surroundings and the many temples scattered across the 26-square-kilometer site. At ₹400 for the day, it was the perfect way to cover ground while still being able to stop whenever something caught our eye.

We drove through the ruins and enjoyed the singular boulder landscape that makes Hampi so charming - millions of granite boulders stacked in seemingly impossible arrangements, temples nestled between them, all glowing golden in the strong sunlight.

We stopped to explore the most spectacular monuments in the Royal Center:

The Elephant Stables - a long building with 11 massive domed chambers where the Vijayanagara Empire kept its ceremonial elephants. The Indo-Islamic architecture was beautifully preserved, each dome unique in design.

The Lotus Mahal - an elegant two-story pavilion with cusped arches and delicate stonework, supposedly where the queen and her ladies-in-waiting relaxed. The building gets its name from its lotus-bud-like shape when viewed from above.

The Queen's Bath - a massive square water pavilion where royalty once bathed. Hard to imagine this now-empty pool filled with perfumed water and flowers.

Vitthala Temple: The Crown Jewel

Going far east, we ended at the Vitthala Temple complex - absolutely the crown jewel of all Hampi's temples. Even partially ruined, it's breathtaking.

The famous Stone Chariot stands in the courtyard - an ornate shrine built in the shape of a temple chariot with carved stone wheels. It's become the iconic symbol of Hampi, appearing on currency notes and in countless photographs. Up close, the detail is extraordinary - every surface covered in intricate carvings.

Inside the main hall, we discovered the Musical Pillars - 56 pillars that produce different musical notes when tapped gently. Each pillar was carved from a single piece of stone and produces a distinct tone. A guard demonstrated, creating a simple melody. Apparently, the British tried to saw into the pillars to discover the secret of the sound, causing some damage before being stopped.

The entire complex - despite being over 500 years old and partially destroyed by invading armies - retained an aura of grandeur. You could imagine processions of elephants, musicians playing those stone pillars, priests performing elaborate ceremonies for the Vijayanagara kings.

Sunset from Matanga Hill

Later that day, as the temperature began to drop from its midday peak, we hiked up Matanga Hill - the tallest point in Hampi and therefore the best place to enjoy the sunset.

The hike wasn't easy - 30 minutes of steep stone steps in the heat - but absolutely worthy. As we climbed, the views expanded with each step. At the top, a small temple dedicated to Lord Rama sat on the rocky summit.

We found spots on the boulders and waited for the sun to descend. As the light changed, the entire landscape transformed. We soaked up the scenery - Hindu temples amongst millions of boulder heaps, the Tungabhadra River winding through rice paddies, the ruins of the ancient city stretching in every direction.

Other tourists and local families gathered on the summit, all silently watching as the sun painted the boulders orange, then pink, then deep purple. Monkeys hopped from rock to rock. The wind picked up as the temperature dropped.

There was no better way to end the day - perched atop Matanga Hill, watching one of the world's greatest archaeological sites fade into twilight.

As darkness fell, we carefully descended the steps by headlamp, exhausted but exhilarated. Tomorrow would be our last morning in Hampi before crossing the river to explore the other side and climb Anjaneya Hill.

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Hampi's Stone Chariot: Exploring the Vitthala Temple Complex

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Matanga Hill Sunset: Best Viewpoint in Hampi

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Complete Guide to Hampi Temples: What to See & How to Explore

Have you visited Hampi's temples? Did you watch the sunset from Matanga Hill? Which was your favorite temple or monument?