For our last day in Hampi, we crossed the Tungabhadra River in a coracle boat maneuvered by a very young boy-boatman. The rounded boat, made of bamboo and shaped like a flat basket, was costly at ₹50 per person. Nevertheless, the 3-minute spinning ride was worth every penny - bobbing and turning in the current as the boy expertly navigated us across.

The Other Side of Hampi

Many tourists rent a motorcycle to explore the other side of the river. We didn't. We preferred to wander on foot through the boulder-strewn landscape and explore this more laid-back side of Hampi at our own pace. The road was muddy due to some heavy rain the night before, but we were wearing good walking shoes that handled the conditions.

This side felt different from Hampi Bazaar - more relaxed, more international, more hippie vibes. Western cafes played Bob Marley, yoga studios advertised their classes, travelers lounged in hammocks between palm trees. It was still beautiful, surrounded by the same incredible boulders and ruins, just with a different energy.

One of the main attractions on this side of the river was Anjaneya Hill. We strolled in that direction, politely rejecting countless offers from tuk-tuk drivers along the way. "Anjaneya Hill! Very far! Very hot! Only ₹200!" We smiled and kept walking. It wasn't that far.

Climbing to Hanuman's Birthplace

We arrived at the base of Anjaneya Hill and looked up at the white staircase zigzagging to the summit. 575 steps. In 36-degree heat. This was going to be a challenge.

We started climbing. The steps were uneven - some shallow, some steep, all carved into the rock or built from stone. We took our time, stopping frequently for water and to catch our breath. Other climbers passed us - young backpackers bounding up, elderly Indian pilgrims moving slowly but steadily, local kids running up and down like it was nothing.

About halfway up, the views started to get spectacular. We could see across the Tungabhadra River to Hampi Bazaar, the temples, the endless boulder fields. Higher we climbed, more landscape revealed itself.

At the top, we found the birthplace of Hanuman - the monkey warrior god from the Ramayana epic. A temple dedicated to him occupied the summit. Monkeys were everywhere, as fitting for Hanuman's birthplace. Jumping from rocks to trees. Eating bananas in the weirdest positions. Staring at us and eyeing our backpack with suspicious intent. We kept a firm grip on our belongings.

The View from the Top

The view from the hilltop was absolutely postcard material - perhaps even better than Matanga Hill. Paddy rice fields in impossibly green shades, coconut plantations swaying in the breeze, ancient ruins scattered like children's toys, all surrounded by unconquerable hills made of millions of boulder heads stretching to the horizon.

We could see both sides of Hampi from here - the temple side and the hippie side, the sacred and the secular, ancient India and modern backpacker culture, all coexisting in this magical landscape.

After soaking up the spirituality of the holy temple and the incredible views, we carefully descended the 575 steps. Our knees were shaking by the bottom - going down is always harder than going up.

Lunch at Laughing Buddha

For lunch, based on TripAdvisor reviews, we settled at the Laughing Buddha restaurant for its chilled-out atmosphere. We climbed up to the rooftop terrace and collapsed into cushioned seats.

We weren't sure if it was the view overlooking Hampi, the Bob Marley music playing in the background, or the psychedelic posters hanging on the walls, but the vibe was so relaxed we almost fell asleep. The food and drinks were more expensive than Hampi Bazaar side, but they did serve Kingfisher - Goa's famous beer - which had been forbidden on the temple side of the river.

We lingered over our meal, in no hurry to leave. This was our last afternoon in Hampi, and we wanted to savor every moment.

Back Across the River

As we prepared to leave that hippie paradise, we discovered the small coracle boats weren't running anymore. Instead, a regular boat capable of ferrying up to 20 passengers was crossing the river. The price ranged from ₹20 to ₹30 depending on the mood of the boatmen and their assessment of how much they could extract from tourists.

We argued politely and paid ₹20 - the local price. Small victories.

Final Visit to Virupaksha Temple

On the Hampi Bazaar side, we ventured once last time in and around the Virupaksha Temple. The sanctuary is the only active place of worship in Hampi and an important pilgrimage center for worshipers of Lord Shiva. Unlike the ruins scattered across the site, this temple pulsed with life - priests performing ceremonies, pilgrims making offerings, the smell of incense and flowers.

Lakshmi, the temple elephant we'd seen bathing yesterday morning, was wandering around the temple courtyard. Tourists paid ₹10 for her "blessing" - she'd tap their heads gently with her trunk. We watched but didn't participate, still conflicted about the elephant in captivity.

After a few selfies and being invited to join Indian families for their group photos (Westerners are sometimes as much an attraction as the temples!), we left the Virupaksha Temple through the 50-meter-high Gopuram - the monumental tower marking the entrance of the temple.

Last Sunset in Hampi

To finish our final day, we climbed to the rooftop terrace of our guest house one last time. We ordered cold drinks and settled in to witness the whimsical sunset over the temples, the rocky river, and the heritage village.

As the sun descended and the boulders began to glow, we reflected on our time in Hampi. This place had exceeded all expectations - more beautiful, more magical, more overwhelming than we'd imagined. Tomorrow we'd board the train back to Goa, but Hampi would stay with us forever.

The sky turned from orange to pink to purple. The last light faded from the boulders. Stars began to appear in the darkening sky. We sat in comfortable silence, grateful to have experienced this extraordinary place.

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Climbing Anjaneya Hill: 575 Steps to Heaven in Hampi

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Coracle Boat Adventure: Crossing the River in Hampi

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Hampi River Side: Complete Guide to Anjaneya Hill & Beyond

Have you climbed Anjaneya Hill? Did you experience the coracle boat ride? What was your favorite moment in Hampi?