We went down to Alappuzha Beach and found hundreds of crabs scurrying around the sandy shore - a whole crab army hiding in holes and crawling away as we approached. The beach itself was nice enough, but a massive highway under construction near the shore made the local area somewhat unattractive. We didn't stay long.

Besides, we had a mission.

The Houseboat Hunt

Alappuzha, also known as Alleppey, is worldwide famous for its backwaters, and we couldn't wait to book the perfect houseboat experience. We headed to the docks along the canal, trying to find a good deal for what is quintessential Kerala tourism.

The scene at the docks was overwhelming. Many houseboats were nestled close together, side by side and one behind the other, moored along the canal. Touts immediately descended on us - "Best houseboat! AC! Fresh seafood! Special price for you!" We politely deflected and wandered along the waterfront, comparing options.

Kerala houseboat tariffs range dramatically - from ₹6,000 for a single-bedroom basic boat to a whopping ₹30,000 for a luxury 8-bedroom vessel. After visiting several operators and comparing offerings, we realized that most deals were very similar in structure: boats just differed in age, luxury level, and environmental practices.

The standard package works like this: Starting around 12 noon, your houseboat embarks on a circular route through the lakes and canals until 5pm. You cruise slowly, watching village life along the waterways, spotting birds, enjoying the scenery. The floating hotel then moors for the evening. Dinner is served on board. You sleep on the boat. In the morning, a quick journey brings you back to town by 9am.

The Eco-Friendly Choice

Conscious of the environmental impact these boats have on the fragile backwater ecosystem - diesel pollution, waste disposal, damage to water quality - we elected to find a more eco-friendly experience.

After extensive research and negotiations, we found an operator offering solar-powered houseboats with proper waste management systems. It cost slightly more (₹8,500 for our two-person boat), but knowing we'd minimize our environmental footprint made it worth it. They guaranteed fresh seafood cooked on board, comfortable bedding, and a knowledgeable crew who could explain the ecosystem.

Booking confirmed for tomorrow! We'd finally experience the Kerala backwaters properly.

Marari Beach

With our houseboat sorted, we had the rest of the afternoon free. We jumped in an auto-rickshaw to explore Marari Beach, about 11 kilometers north of Alappuzha.

The ride took 30 minutes through small fishing villages, coconut plantations, and narrow lanes. Our driver was lovely - chatty, informative, proud of his Kerala heritage. We asked him to wait and bring us back to the hotel later. He agreed happily for a total fare of ₹500 including waiting time.

Marari Beach was a revelation. Unlike touristy Alappuzha Beach with its construction chaos, Marari felt undeveloped and a bit of a secret. The coast stretched pristine and quiet - clean sand, gentle waves, fishing boats painted in bright colors pulled up on shore.

A perfect spot to unwind. We walked barefoot along the water's edge for ages. A few local fishermen worked with their nets. Some backpackers lounged under coconut palms. But mostly, we had the beach to ourselves.

Sunset and Seafood

As the afternoon faded, we found a tiny beachfront restaurant - basically a shack with plastic chairs and tables in the sand. The menu was simple: whatever fish had been caught that morning, prepared however you wanted it.

We ordered fresh catch grilled with Kerala spices, prawn curry with coconut, rice, and vegetable thoran (a Kerala stir-fry). The food was to die for - simple, fresh, perfectly seasoned. The seafood tasted like it had been swimming hours earlier (which it probably had).

As we ate, the sun began its descent over the Arabian Sea. The sky transformed into an artist's palette - orange, pink, purple, gold. The fishing boats silhouetted against the sunset. The coconut palms swayed gently. This was Kerala at its most beautiful.

Our driver waited patiently, chatting with the restaurant owner. When we finally finished - stuffed and sun-drunk - he drove us back to Alappuzha through the gathering darkness. Rice paddies glowed in the twilight. Stars appeared overhead. Temple bells rang in the distance.

Back at our hotel, we collapsed into bed, satisfied and excited. Tomorrow we'd wake early for our houseboat adventure through the backwaters. But tonight, we fell asleep to the memory of that perfect Marari sunset.

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Have you visited Alappuzha? Did you choose an eco-friendly houseboat? Which beach did you prefer - Alappuzha or Marari?